12x16 Shed Build (for the wife)

I am not saying the following way is the best way, the right way or even the only way but it is the way that I did it. I was working by myself


I used hot dipped galvanized nails wherever they touched PT wood.

Used 2x6 PT wood for the floor framing on 16" centers

7/16" OSB for the floor.

2x4 stud walls on 2' centers


I started off getting the four corner cinder blocks leveled



Since I wanted a true 12' wide building to make the floor easier I cut the 12' 2x6s to 11'9". I did all these cuts at the same time



I then nailed them up using hot dipped galvanized nails for my framing gun



Looked like this once done



I wanted the plywood to sit on bracing on the edges so I cut 2x6s to fit between the 12' lengths



After nailing the plywood using 8d nails I framed the walls with 2x4 on 2' centers. I did not at this time frame for the window or door to keep weight down since I was by myself. I nailed the braces to the walls before standing the walls. Once I plumbed one side I then nailed the brace to the 2x6 flooring and repeated on the other side. Started on the long walls first so that I could frame the short wall on the shed floor as well and then stand up.



Here all 4 walls are stood up and plumbed as well as braced off



I then framed for the window and door. I did not use a traditional header since I was putting a metal roof. (may not be the right way to some)



I then started framing the roof



Since I was doing this alone I chose to build a craddle for the 2x6 ridge board to fit into. I centered this craddle and nailed it off so that I could lift the 16' 2x6 by myself to place into the craddle



I then extended out the roof line past the gable ends since I wanted 1' overhangs around the building.

I am not saying the following way is the best way, the right way or even the only way but it is the way that I did it. I was working by myself


I used hot dipped galvanized nails wherever they touched PT wood.

Used 2x6 PT wood for the floor framing on 16" centers

7/16" OSB for the floor.

2x4 stud walls on 2' centers


I started off getting the four corner cinder blocks leveled



Since I wanted a true 12' wide building to make the floor easier I cut the 12' 2x6s to 11'9". I did all these cuts at the same time



I then nailed them up using hot dipped galvanized nails for my framing gun



Looked like this once done



I wanted the plywood to sit on bracing on the edges so I cut 2x6s to fit between the 12' lengths



After nailing the plywood using 8d nails I framed the walls with 2x4 on 2' centers. I did not at this time frame for the window or door to keep weight down since I was by myself. I nailed the braces to the walls before standing the walls. Once I plumbed one side I then nailed the brace to the 2x6 flooring and repeated on the other side. Started on the long walls first so that I could frame the short wall on the shed floor as well and then stand up.



Here all 4 walls are stood up and plumbed as well as braced off



I then framed for the window and door. I did not use a traditional header since I was putting a metal roof. (may not be the right way to some)



I then started framing the roof



Since I was doing this alone I chose to build a craddle for the 2x6 ridge board to fit into. I centered this craddle and nailed it off so that I could lift the 16' 2x6 by myself to place into the craddle



I then extended out the roof line on the gable ends since I wanted a 12" overhang and then cut the rafter tails to match this same 12". Nailed up the fascia board



Since I was installing metal roofing I needed something to screw to. So I nailed 2x4s up. Then I installed the vinyl soffit, window and door



Also since I was planning on metal sides I needed something to screw to there as well. My FIL had some rough cut lumber for free so I decided to use that. I had planned on using 1x4s to screw to but the screws would have been exposed on the inside. Decided against that



All that is left to do now is put up the metal. I did not take any pictures of this process but if I can help let me know

Since I did not cut the seat for the rafters I used straps



I used 2x4s to mount interior lights and to help the walls from spreading out

Built some shelving for the wife using free rough cut lumber



Built her a work desk with leftovers. I have taken it over till mine is finished

I would have done a few things differently if I was to do it again.

1. double bubble is cheap $115 for 6'x125'. I would have insulated
2. PT 3/4" plywood instead of 7/16" OSb for the floor
3. used 4x4 posts dug 1' or so into the ground with a small footer and then cut off level before nailing the floor. Would have been easier to level rather than dig down for the cinder blocks. If you needed to move in the future 18' 4x4s could have been slid under the building jacked up and then cut off the 4x4s with a sawzall.


Hope this helps someone in the future

...nice job, two ?'s, how are you gonna keep varmits out from under the shed?...won't it settle into the ground with only 6 cement blocks holding it up?

rusty1 said:

...nice job, two ?'s, how are you gonna keep varmits out from under the shed?...won't it settle into the ground with only 6 cement blocks holding it up?

Click to expand...

I didnt take pictures of all the cinder blocks. After I leveled the 4 corners and made sure the floor was level I added several more blocks. 12 in total.

As far as keeping varmits out from under the shed, I left it high enough for air circulation first and I have a rodent/varmit hunting lab in the yard. Something may be able to hide under the shed from her but she will sit and wait on whatever is hiding. We have been in the house 1 year next month. Bella, the lab has caught 3 squirrels, 6 groundhogs and a rabbit so far. Where she got the rabbit is beyond me

I would go back and add collar ties or ceiling joists in the lower third of your rafters. You will get rafter thrust long term with only those little short sections all the way at the top. Sooner rather than later if you're in an area with any significant snow. [emoji108]

Commendatore said:

I would go back and add collar ties or ceiling joists in the lower third of your rafters. You will get rafter thrust long term with only those little short sections all the way at the top. Sooner rather than later if you're in an area with any significant snow. [emoji108]

Click to expand...

Im in central Alabama. No snow. Building is solid. Look at the gable ends. 2 2x4s on the rafter runs. 1 for support and the other just to nail to for the metal. If anything it is overframed for the area

Commendatore said:

I would go back and add collar ties or ceiling joists in the lower third of your rafters. You will get rafter thrust long term with only those little short sections all the way at the top. Sooner rather than later if you're in an area with any significant snow. [emoji108]

Click to expand...

that is also another thing I thought of after the fact. Even though more storage is available this way if in the future it were to be heated and cooled which is not beyond the realm of possibility since id like to keep the wife out of the shop for many reasons. I may want to add drywall, but the wife was specific at the time stating no way she would do her projects in the shed.

Nice looking shed and I can see the progress on your shop in the background.