let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Man, grab that thing... that's like 1/10 value or less...
torqueman2002
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
At this price, you could pay the seller extra $ plus the FedEx costs and still have a good stand at a good price.Any of you guys need a stand? There's one listed for $8 in south Jersey:
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/fuo/5063801930.html
Seller has it listed as a "table base"- from the ad:
I am selling this Metal Table Base for $8. This item is 30.5 in h. The top part is 9 in w by 7.75 in l and the bottom part is 12 X 12.
I'm a long time seller here on CL and I respond back to all phone calls and texts. I reply back to e-mails only if you provide me with a valid phone number so that I can avoid the spammers. Thanks for reading my CL ad.
Hmmmm.
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mtwaterguy
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At this price, you could pay the seller extra $ plus the FedEx costs and still have a good stand at a good price.
Hmmmm.
Within 10 seconds if me asking him to ship this to Montana he'd realize he screwed up. No chance it would ever get here. I've lost lots of tools that way.
bagged89s10
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dngrmse
Well-known member
Good Luck, hope you get it.
So here is what I picked up this morning at a garage sale about 1/2 mile from my house, it's in really nice shape, considering it's age.
Ok, I'm up to page 31 so far and I'm learning a lot.
I thought I'd point out that the features that Vintage Machinery identifies as typical of Commercial/Industrial units may also be shared by grinders without these markings. My 1 horse block isn't marked Commercial or Industrial but it has dual voltage, exhaust outlets on the guards, and articulating 3 piece tool rests. I'm not sure about the extended wheel shaft thing since I don't know what the normal length is.bagged89s10
Well-known member
Good Luck, hope you get it.
So here is what I picked up this morning at a garage sale about 1/2 mile from my house, it's in really nice shape, considering it's age.
The seller isn't willing to spend time to ship it.
Nice find on that unit with the stand!
mtwaterguy
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I had a HD base bought in Ca. Until the seller decided it was too much work to put it in a large USPS box and haul it all the way to the PO.
harleybuilder
Well-known member
I had a HD base bought in Ca. Until the seller decided it was too much work to put it in a large USPS box and haul it all the way to the PO.
That seems like the theme lately, I have made several deals on grinders then the seller decides they don't want to ship......
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: in the seller's defense it might take an hour of his time and a couple bucks in gas for an $8 item that he's giving away.
surprised it's even still available, but I've been having issues with Craig's emails getting through so maybe that's the issue.
surprised it's even still available, but I've been having issues with Craig's emails getting through so maybe that's the issue.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
on this; I just had someone wanting me to spring for the shipping on a $10 manual. 
Lets see, I pack it, I have to take time to go to the PO, and spend the gas, all for 10 bucks... Needless to say, he's paying the ****** postage... You have to be willing to pay a premium for a large heavy item. I used to ship speakers fairly regularly. It took a full hour to pack them right, and was hard work (and always occurred on hot days) then I had to go to Fed Ex and wait in line, and cross my fingers they didn't surcharge or over charge their "estimation tools": I finally stopped that nonsense. Sometimes materials alone was $40 or more...
Agreed; I can't see why it's still available unless hes in timbukto
mtwaterguy
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In my case I think I was very fair with the seller. I added almost $20 extra for the USPS priority box and the sellers time to fill the box and get it to the PO. If he wanted more he should have just said so.
Hey All,
Picked up this
This AM for 40 bucks needs a right support arm it is cracked and some new rests maybe but it works and is ok shape other then that.
Model 397.19450 3/4 HP Commercial Made in 1974 Came out of an Electrical Coop In PA .
Cypher
Picked up this
This AM for 40 bucks needs a right support arm it is cracked and some new rests maybe but it works and is ok shape other then that. Model 397.19450 3/4 HP Commercial Made in 1974 Came out of an Electrical Coop In PA .
Cypher
Hey All,
Picked up this
Model 397.19450 3/4 HP Commercial Made in 1974 Came out of an Electrical Coop In PA .
Cypher
That blue wheel look interesting---might be a fancy 3M cool wheel.
firemanast
Well-known member
Hey All,
Picked up this
Model 397.19450 3/4 HP Commercial Made in 1974 Came out of an Electrical Coop In PA .
Cypher
Sweet grinder I have it's twin brother !
bagged89s10
Well-known member
I would also like to know the same.
I bought the cheap harbor freight ones for now and they work ok but they do shed a ton of wires. I think HF's brass ones are brass coated but don't quote me on that. I would think all brass wheels would be softer and better for gentler work.
jakemac
Well-known member
Most "Brass" wire wheels that you see in the stores are brass plated steel. If you want full brass wire wheels you'll have to search the internet.
If you're cleaning steel on a full brass wheel, all you're going to do is burnish the rusty bits.
I use the plated fine crimped wheels on my machine. If I need a fine finish, I use a light touch. If I need a heavier finish I either switch to my course crimped wheel, or use a heavier touch on the brass plated wheel.
As far as the porcupine effect I get from store bought wheels indulging their propensity for Male Pattern Baldness - I consider it the price I have to pay and just keep working.
If you're cleaning steel on a full brass wheel, all you're going to do is burnish the rusty bits.
I use the plated fine crimped wheels on my machine. If I need a fine finish, I use a light touch. If I need a heavier finish I either switch to my course crimped wheel, or use a heavier touch on the brass plated wheel.
As far as the porcupine effect I get from store bought wheels indulging their propensity for Male Pattern Baldness - I consider it the price I have to pay and just keep working.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I buy Weiler from MSC and McMaster-Carr. The only time they throw wires, is at the end of their useful life.
http://tinyurl.com/MSC-Wire-Wheels
http://tinyurl.com/McMaster-Carr-Wire-Wheels
Yes.
To replace the inner, electrical socket:
1) Unplug the grinder, squeeze (gently) the outer shell (see pic for where to squeeze) to release it from the bottom section, image below is of course inverted.
2) Once the shell is removed, you'll have access to the electrical terminals, similar to those below.
Note: Make a note of the polarity of the wires (1 will be smooth, the other will be ribbed or have a white stripe, ...) and the corresponding color of the screw/terminal (brass and silver).
3) Loosen the screws and remove the wires.
4) Remove the inner lamp holder.
If the outer base needs to be replaced,
5) Loosen the the small screw at the bottom of the base.
6) Untie the electricians/underwriters knot, to assist passing of the conductors through the base.
7) To remove base from the goose neck, turn the base counter-clockwise.
Reverse the above, as 'they' say, to replace.
Link to underwriters knot
http://factorydirectcraft.com/facto...content/uploads/2010/04/underwriters_knot.jpg
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Essentially how to change out the whole socket assembly, mine does not look like torquemans picture it does not have a screw at the base. It appears to thread directly on . I have a nice heavy duty brass ont to put on but I believe the ooriginal is corroded tight as it is alum screwed on to brass on to the steel flex arm. Will take a picture when I am home lol ahem working hard ....this evening. I really wanted to verify it could be done, the original owner of this one apparently seperated the lower shell from the top at some Pont and damaged it so he taped it back together .
Cypher
.Cypher
Outlawmws
Well-known member
TM's will screw on also, the screw is a set screw to keep it there...
bagged89s10
Well-known member
I buy Weiler from MSC and McMaster-Carr. The only time they throw wires, is at the end of their useful life.
http://tinyurl.com/MSC-Wire-Wheels
http://tinyurl.com/McMaster-Carr-Wire-Wheels
Yes.
To replace the inner, electrical socket:
1) Unplug the grinder, squeeze (gently) the outer shell (see pic for where to squeeze) to release it from the bottom section, image below is of course inverted.
2) Once the shell is removed, you'll have access to the electrical terminals, similar to those below.
Note: Make a note of the polarity of the wires (1 will be smooth, the other will be ribbed or have a white stripe, ...) and the corresponding color of the screw/terminal (brass and silver).
3) Loosen the screws and remove the wires.
4) Remove the inner lamp holder.
If the outer base needs to be replaced,
5) Loosen the the small screw at the bottom of the base.
6) Untie the electricians/underwriters knot, to assist passing of the conductors through the base.
7) To remove base from the goose neck, turn the base counter-clockwise.
Reverse the above, as 'they' say, to replace.
Link to underwriters knot
http://factorydirectcraft.com/facto...content/uploads/2010/04/underwriters_knot.jpg
Nice writeup!
Where do they sell that brass socket with that switch that you pictured?
bczygan
Well-known member
bagged89s10
Well-known member
bagged89s10
Well-known member
This one is very close to me if someone is looking for one I can go pick it up.
6" Craftsman Bench Grinder w/ light $80
http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/5077968792.html
6" Craftsman Bench Grinder w/ light $80
http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/5077968792.html
Hey,
This is what I am dealing with, if you look close you can see the rusted threads inside what is left of the aluminum housing. I am going to slice it with a dremel as unscrewing it is a non event already tried.
Cypher
This is what I am dealing with, if you look close you can see the rusted threads inside what is left of the aluminum housing. I am going to slice it with a dremel as unscrewing it is a non event already tried.
Cypher
dngrmse
Well-known member
That part unscrews from the flexible shaft. Cut off the flange so you can get a good grip on it and twist it off. That's what I had to do. But yeah, you'll probably need to soak it in WD40 overnight at least
Farmall450
Well-known member
harleybuilder
Well-known member
Farmall great job on saving a nice block and the color combination is fantastic.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
bagged89s10
Well-known member
I wish I had room to keep this cabinet. The grinder looks nice on it. If anyone wants it let me know.
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thegrindstaffs
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- Jun 12, 2015
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- 11
I bought a model 397.19580 bench grinder at an auction a few weeks ago. Took it home and it worked great, figured I'd give this restoring thing a shot. I took it apart and cleaned out what felt like pounds of dirt and gunk. I cleaned it the best I could (still learning that part, tips and tricks welcome) then went to reassemble. After reassembly I plugged it and flipped the switch. Heard the motor hum, light came on, but shaft didn't turn. It spins a little when turned off, but when turned on the shaft is very hard to turn and never "catches" I have no idea where to go from here. Here Again, if anyone can help me clean this thing up I'd much appreciate it, as well as get it working again. Thank you.
Update. 6/19/15
now to add to the problem, I took the grinder all apart last night and put it back together, hooked up the wiring and flipped the switch. The shaft did not turn at all when turned on (spun freely when off) and the light did not turn on. Everything worked before I took it apart to clean it up.
Update. 6/19/15
now to add to the problem, I took the grinder all apart last night and put it back together, hooked up the wiring and flipped the switch. The shaft did not turn at all when turned on (spun freely when off) and the light did not turn on. Everything worked before I took it apart to clean it up.