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Another milwaukee problem

Acuratechva

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Milwaukee Drill Chuck Wobble

UPDATED 5/24/16 with final resolution.


I've removed most of my emotional dribble and added the final solution to be all in one place.

Original complaint was : So i googled first. Found that it may be common, but there was never a resolution anywhere. Last discussion on google was 2013....my m18 GEN3 CHUCK DRILL WOBBLES LIKE A ZBITCH. Right out of the box.

What started it all. 2704-20 Chuck Wobble. No measurements were taken of exact runout.

After sending in the drill for warranty repair and having same issue unchanged i went to look for an upgrade.

I've concluded that the issue was a garbage chuck with poorly machined teeth and went on to pick up a ROHM Extra, RV only to find that it had incorrect thread pitch. Turns out \Milwaukee has switched to larger ****** spindle from a standard 1/2-20" thread.

Since i already had the chuck and was curious to see the difference, a trip to HD was made for a 1st Gen 2604-20 drill. Chuck went on perfectly but to my surprise issue wasn't resolved. A slight improvement of ~.007 at best. Still something you could see with an unarmed eye.

OEM Milwaukee 2604-20 .033"
VS
Rohm Extra RV .022"
If you keep a close eye you will see iscrewed up a bit and it wasnt zeroed out. I suspect it was more like . 025"

This got me researching and stumbled on to ROHM's catalog which featured a Precision Supra chuck. Figured at this point i had nothing to loose and if this 3rd chuck disappoints i'll bend over and settle for whats there.

2604-20 with Rohm 871045 Type 136 Supra 10mm


Roughly .005" and valve itself had just a bit under .002" runout. I am stoked! So to all the negative nancies that told me its normal and i should deal with it ...**** it! :) Just kidding


There are lighter Supra chuck variations. This one was close to twice the weight of OEM, but the price point made me make the move. Its the nicest chuck i have ever touched. Sooooooooo smooth its just pure perfection.
 

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jd_1138

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My Dewalt doesn't wobble. I went from Ryobi and started to go Milwaukee but decided DeWalt would be my choice. Maybe they need to change their name from Milwaukee to Hong Kong (where their co. is headquartered)?

I kid/jest out of love. Sounds like just a defective unit. Their stuff is usually top notch.
 
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Acuratechva

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Its all good JD.

went in to HD to see if i can do some sktchy chuck swapping but they didnt even have any in stock. some locations make me a sad panda
 

B_Bimmer

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Oh for the days of high quality Jacobs keyed chucks on any decent drill... on the other hand, hand tight chucks have advanced a ton in the last twenty years and they sure are convenient.
 

MaineGuide

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I've wondered if it's possible to put a Rohm chuck on them? Maybe a spare of the higher end DeWalt models?
 

Fixed

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I've wondered if it's possible to put a Rohm chuck on them? Maybe a spare of the higher end DeWalt models?

I feel like that really shouldn't be necessary, when it's a brand new drill.

EDIT: oops, for some reason though he said fuel... I guess my brain just hit autofill after it read Gen3
 
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MaineGuide

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I feel like that really shouldn't be necessary, when it's a brand new drill.

EDIT: oops, for some reason though he said fuel... I guess my brain just hit autofill after it read Gen3

Of course it shouldn't be necessary, but it doesn't seem like these chuck issues have stopped, so maybe another solution is needed?

Found this on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD7KUXO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Looks like one reviewer used it on an M18 Fuel drill. Not sure where else to get that chuck but seems like it could work.
 

tarbellb

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Pretty common complaint on here actually. Seems there was a bad batch.

Couple of choices, perhaps try the warranty program- Its excellent, easy, fast, and Ive never paid a dime when under warranty.

Second, replace with a better model- I did this with my old Hitachi drill, found some very nice NOS Jacobs (not sure COO but its quality) from Cripe, like $15 shipped.

http://www.cripedistributing.com/ja...mmerdrill-chuck-1-2-20-thread-700-series.html

Good luck.
 

gdocktor3

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I know the Home Depot in my area has a Milwaukee rep in store a few days a week. I would go down there and talk (scream) to him. Hopefully they can get it fixed. Hopefully you still have the receipts to show you just bought it. This is a text book example of the "this tool is warranted to the original purchaser only to be free from defects in material and workmanship" warranty from Milwaukee. I'd say this is defective.
 

chrisexv6

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My first gen fuel hammer drill had little to no wobble. My second gen has plenty.

Checked another drill or two at HD and right out of the box they had the same wobble.

Debating a rohm Chuck replacement or taking it in for service. As this has been a complaint for a while, I'm not sure they could actually fix it

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xela456

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Is the attatchment on these chucks universal? i just bought a direct replacement for my first gen fuel had I known the dewalt chuck was an option I would have purchased it as I like the wrench option up from to tighten it
 
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Acuratechva

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Wanted to fiddle with it myself, but chuck screw was pretty damn on there. Didnt want anyone bitching at me later that tool has been tampered with. So i just set up a warranty repair. Lets see how well it goes.


 

chrisexv6

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Wanted to fiddle with it myself, but chuck screw was pretty damn on there. Didnt want anyone bitching at me later that tool has been tampered with. So i just set up a warranty repair. Lets see how well it goes.



AFAIK its a left hand thread so you'll need to "tighten" it, to "loosen" it. And I think its also installed with loctite that needs heat to "deactivate" it. So yeah, its on there pretty well.

When I was looking into a replacement chuck for my gen 1 fuel hammer drill, it looked like the best out there was the Rohm Extra (a model just below the Supra...not the best Rohm but still good). Not sure if that still fits the gen 2 but I would imagine it will.
 

rlitman

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AFAIK its a left hand thread so you'll need to "tighten" it, to "loosen" it. And I think its also installed with loctite that needs heat to "deactivate" it. So yeah, its on there pretty well.

Nope, chucks screw on with a right hand thread. If there is a retaining screw in the middle, that might have a left hand thread.
 

chrisexv6

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Nope, chucks screw on with a right hand thread. If there is a retaining screw in the middle, that might have a left hand thread.

Sorry about that, thats what I was referring to.

The screw inside the chuck that holds it onto the shaft. The chuck itself spins off normal direction.

I believe the parts listing from Milwaukee actually shows the procedure to remove/replace the chuck.
 

Ign

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Impact drivers are your friend for the screws in chucks.

I once sent in an M12 for excessive runout/wobble. I got back a unit which is as good as any other hand drill.
 
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Acuratechva

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Well the drill is back, in case anybody wonders about turn around time. 8 Days from the moment i dropped it.

Does its till wobble? Oh baby! She is totally twerkin' it!

Its no longer Lexy Panterra, but she's still shaking it :(

Warranty paperwork states " worn chuck, replaced chuck". Worn my ***, not even a dozen holes worn, but i know what they put down is from time to time for show.

You cant notice it as much on a drill bit due to the spiral cut , but when yo put a smooth round object with no twist that ***** goes all over the place.

Didnt care to look in to it enough but what i did notice is before "chrome" part of chuck does not wobble as much , in fact it almost doesnt. But then the color makes it hard to notice. Wobble of chrome tip made me think threads were not precision cut in relation to the housing.

Also concerned that the threads cut in to the chuck are not flat/perpendicular to the housing. Only new chuck will tell.

My educated guess is that the "teeth" are not same size, if you look close three bits that hold the bit consist of two teeth(each) and the cut on them is poor. When a valve is tightened i can barely tell that only one of the groves grip the valve used for testing.


Looks like ill be trying Amazon chuck someone suggested earlier, mainly because amazons return policy is hassle free. No risk.
 
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Acuratechva

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Of course it shouldn't be necessary, but it doesn't seem like these chuck issues have stopped, so maybe another solution is needed?

Found this on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD7KUXO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Looks like one reviewer used it on an M18 Fuel drill. Not sure where else to get that chuck but seems like it could work.


Ok, so this is the chuck i ordered, and also the chuck other reviewer has shown to fit M18 FUel drill. But the ***** wont screw on. WTF! What am i missing!? 1/2"-20 thread. As researched...
 
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xela456

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Go to ereplacementparts.com and type in your model number they will have exactly what you need
 
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Acuratechva

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Ok, so the 2nd Gen 2704 is now a larger thread pitch spindle. And it just so happens that not one major chuck manufacturer has started to make this size 9/16". ROHM included. If you plan to upgrade a chuck on your 3rd, good luck, youre stuck with this garbage.

Because i am a stubborn ******* that cant let go i went out to HD and picked up a 2604 1st gen drill. No surprise, chuck wobbled again right out of the box.

Swapped the newly aquired ROM chuck on the 1st gen drill and there is still some wobble. Less, but for the 90$ price tag and fancy German precision engineering its unacceptable. Chuck feels fantastic though.

Thinking back i am not surprised why drilling out broken 10mm bolts dead center has always been such a *****.

I am convinced that the chuck teeth are to blame. Both Milwaukee and ROHM have the double teeth pressed in (so it looks) and they dont look uniform to each other.

Before i write off milwaukee i plan to do same test with dewalt drill, which has different brand chucks and teeth are smooth one piece.
 
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Ign

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So OP I understand you're seeing changes/improvements w different chucks but have you actually checked the spindle for runout? With a dial indicator? Everything you're seeing from the Rohm could be the tool itself.

The ONLY way to understand what's really going on here is to check for runout.

If you build a square house on a leaning foundation, it's not the house's fault....
 

jd_1138

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Before i write off milwaukee i plan to do same test with dewalt drill, which has different brand chucks and teeth are smooth one piece.

I love my DeWalt tools. Zero problems with them, and I abuse the hell out of them. But Milwaukee is the current "cool kid on the block" so invariably when I am at Home Depot picking up stuff I see mostly those red Milwaukee boxes in people's arms as they're walking around.

I almost went Milwaukee after I sold all my Ryobi stuff to a friend. I bought an M18 (non-Fuel) 1/4" impact driver kit, but I then discovered that Milwaukee was not an American co.. I am generally not too concerned about COO, but I just decided I wanted to pay attention to it before getting heavily into a platform. I didn't return the Milwaukee stuff to the store. I just sold it to a friend.
 
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Acuratechva

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So OP I understand you're seeing changes/improvements w different chucks but have you actually checked the spindle for runout? With a dial indicator? Everything you're seeing from the Rohm could be the tool itself.

The ONLY way to understand what's really going on here is to check for runout.

If you build a square house on a leaning foundation, it's not the house's fault....

Very good point and was the first thing i checked with 2704 chuck off. Sadly yes, I have spun both 2704 and 2604 with no shuck bolted on. Looks very smooth and straight.

Also possible threads are cut at an angle but once again eye-baling it seems fine. Checking runout on the threaded portion vs the tip would be difficult due to nature of wavy surface of threads.

Bottom line is that you are right, it may be the foundation, but that would mean all these drills are **** and were talking Milwaukee, not HF. Which is why i want to try a different drills that uses one piece teeth chuck and see the difference.

I love my DeWalt tools.

It was a hard call to leave Dewalt, but at that time their selection lacked all the good stuff i needed, M12 Fuel impact/drill , 1/2" impact and excellent LED light selection. Dewalts 12v line has not seen a refresh in nearly 10 years. BUT Dewalt has a nice string trimmer...
 
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Ign

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A fat tip on a dial indicator should span the threads and the OD of the threads should be consistent.

But sounds like it's in the chuck(s). Of course any 3 jaw won't be perfect, but yeah if other manufacturers are providing chucks that are ** good there's no reason Milwaukee can't also.
 

Ign

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Curious - and apparently hell-bent on procrastinating and not working today - I chucked up a quality Cleveland 7/16" screw machine drill in my 2704 and checked runout. NOW this is no dowel pin but for the purposes of checking runout in a cordless hand drill we should all be able to agree it'll be concentric ENOUGH.

I found .004 to .005" runout - an amount that I would consider EXCELLENT if this were a 3 jaw on my lathe.
 

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Ign

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I then did the same with 2701 #1 and found zero runout. I'm not shitting you. The indicator was most definitely pre-loaded and there was no discernible movement of the needle. I coulda pulled out my Interapid but puhleeze....it's a hand drill.
 

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Ign

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Now for my 2604 which was purchased recon from CPO with a scratched/boogered chuck I found .002" runout - an amount I would generally consider perfectly acceptable if indicating in a 4 jaw on my lathe (save for press fits perhaps).
 

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Acuratechva

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Can you check what the runout is 3-4" from the base? Those are great numbers but i wouldn't consider them real world useful as we never drill this close to the chuck. Just eyeballing i was seeing 1/8 runout at 4"

If i was getting 5 thousands on any of the drills and chucks i wouldnt be here :) , can you even see that much without a dial

PS: my old gauge is long gone....youre going to make me to go HF and get a new dial aren't you
 
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Acuratechva

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For anyone that cares i've ordered a 100 dollar "precision" ROHM Supra chuck. Stay tuned for that and runout videos of oem vs rohm rv vs rohm srpra runout. if only i can figure out how to embed videos

OEM Milwaukee
VS
Rohm Extra RV

Improvement no question...but was it worth 85$...while the drill was 95 lol
 
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Ign

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So for the sake of argument assuming that valve is *PERFECTLY* straight (which I doubt it is), what happened to "1/8 runout at 4" ?"

For a hand drill the video of the OEM Milwaukee chuck looks acceptable to me.
 
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Acuratechva

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So for the sake of argument assuming that valve is *PERFECTLY* straight (which I doubt it is), what happened to "1/8 runout at 4" ?"

For a hand drill the video of the OEM Milwaukee chuck looks acceptable to me.

Very first post video shows 2704 drill, video with dial indicator is the 2604 i picked up for testing. Wobble is considerable just by looking at it. I didnt bother putting a dial gauge on it.

Anyway you are right , i may have overreacted on that one.

I was concerned with straightness as well and have marked valve lean side and chuck. Regardless of where where valve was facing in the chuck its always leaning with the chuck. Valve itself is new and has .002 runout.

Still, .032" wobble is a bit much for my taste. Not expecting a crude tool to do a job of a precision lathe , however I feel if i can see it with an unarmed eye, its too much.

Found this guy comparing different drills.

So yeah, apparently this is the new norm for all the china made garbage. But it doesn't mean i have to give up. I will however, if Rohm Supra chuck does not make a considerable difference.
 
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chrisexv6

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Im outside the return policy for my 2704 but I might try to talk into having HD let me return it anyway. Ive tried a few of the other ones in inventory and they were the same or even worse.

Granted, its not a HUGE deal (its not exactly a finesse tool after all), but my 1st gen FUEL hammer drill is better in regards to runout. So between those two its a question of wanting more power or more precision, unless I can find a "good" 2704.
 

90zcar

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Ha this issue recently plagued me horribly. I first bought a m12 drill for $129. I noticed the chuck had horrible wobble. I retuned it and exchanged it for the drill/impact combo because that was on special for $149

Well the drill in that set had wobble but it wasn't as bad. It still bothered me so I took it back and told them I wanted to open one until I found one I was satisfied with. I found one I could deal with.
Yea it still has a slight wobble but I finally learned to deal with it. It's an awesome little drill and I love it

I also want to add that I did this at 2 different Home Depots and have checked floor model Milwaukee drills at 3 different Home Depots and they all wobble to some degree.
b75ca1e4a0e219e5c9d0177fea0badc7.jpg


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Acuratechva

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Ha this issue recently plagued me horribly.
[[/IMG]


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Glad to hear im not the only one that thinks its too much to do the job right.

Im outside the return policy for my 2704 but I might try to talk into having HD let me return it anyway. Ive tried a few of the other ones in inventory and they were the same or even worse.

Granted, its not a HUGE deal .

Im glad you have as muh beef with it as i do, but for the sake of others that care to brush this issue off...not a huge deal until you go to drill out a bolt down in the engine bay and the bit walks. Only get one shot ... just saying. For a general contractor that needs to drill a few wood holes its just fine, anything above its much too crude.

I have almost cleared the woods....in terms of denial. They all have it. Trick is to get one where you can get the best chuck out there. And 2704 is not it because of oddball spindle size. All the high end huks are 1/2-20

Just saw new 2604 on ebay for 84. Or better yet, i am thinking of getting a 12volt 2404 and slapping a baller chunk on it for those precise jobs.

My "precision" Rohm chuck is due tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed...
 
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