PAToyota
Well-known member
Back in the day, the covering was typically green on the one side and cream on the other. I used the cream on a couple of my boards.
Above 1200 Sq/FT The ASYLUM - Happy 40th Birthday to Me! (Est. 2005)
- Thread starter shopnut
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Back in the day, the covering was typically green on the one side and cream on the other. I used the cream on a couple of my boards.
THE ASYLUM GETS A MAJOR BOOST IN THE COSMETICS AREA…
Months of barely noticeable prep work has been leading up to this – and then in one day it seems you make a major leap forward with very little effort.
I took a picture with just the vinyl trim in place before the siding was installed. Cutting and fitting all the J-channel takes the majority of the time.
And here are some views with siding. It really makes the crane stand out. I had to build a recessed area for the hoist so the crane would swing over tight against the wall. I added a door to access the reels and some other things inside the wall. You can also see the flare where the cords and hoses hang out.
Months of barely noticeable prep work has been leading up to this – and then in one day it seems you make a major leap forward with very little effort.
I took a picture with just the vinyl trim in place before the siding was installed. Cutting and fitting all the J-channel takes the majority of the time.
And here are some views with siding. It really makes the crane stand out. I had to build a recessed area for the hoist so the crane would swing over tight against the wall. I added a door to access the reels and some other things inside the wall. You can also see the flare where the cords and hoses hang out.
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wagonmaster
Well-known member
Excellent!
DRAWING BOARD FINAL VIEWS (PART 1 - OVERALL VIEW)...
Hopefully this will help those who want to duplicate this mount system. I made all the final mods on my list, added some extra features, and got the parts painted. These pictures show the right side mount fully assembled and the left in pieces. I tried to lay out the parts of the left mount in the order in which they go together.
Hopefully this will help those who want to duplicate this mount system. I made all the final mods on my list, added some extra features, and got the parts painted. These pictures show the right side mount fully assembled and the left in pieces. I tried to lay out the parts of the left mount in the order in which they go together.
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DRAWING BOARD FINAL VIEWS (PART 2 – CLOSE-UP VIEWS)...
Assembled right side upper sliders vs. exploded left side:
Assembled right side prop leg pivot vs. exploded left side:
Assembled right side lower slider vs. exploded left side:
Cross-members:
Assembled right side upper sliders vs. exploded left side:
Assembled right side prop leg pivot vs. exploded left side:
Assembled right side lower slider vs. exploded left side:
Cross-members:
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DRAWING BOARD FINAL VIEWS (PART 3 - ADDITIONAL FEATURES)...
The bottom sliders only really have two vertical positions in the track, so I added some cross holes in the main channels to insert pins at these key places to lock the sliders. I don’t foresee moving the bottom sliders very often between position 1 and 2 so pins will work fine.
To lock the top slider/carriage at the full up (board stored) and full down (board horizontal) positions, I added some spring-loaded pins to the carriage and some matching holes in the main channels. I will add a cable connecting between the two pins to retract them simultaneously, but plan to fabricate that later once it is up on the wall. Locking the carriage in any position between full up and full down (board angled out for use) will be accomplished by the cam lock handles shown earlier.
The bottom sliders only really have two vertical positions in the track, so I added some cross holes in the main channels to insert pins at these key places to lock the sliders. I don’t foresee moving the bottom sliders very often between position 1 and 2 so pins will work fine.
To lock the top slider/carriage at the full up (board stored) and full down (board horizontal) positions, I added some spring-loaded pins to the carriage and some matching holes in the main channels. I will add a cable connecting between the two pins to retract them simultaneously, but plan to fabricate that later once it is up on the wall. Locking the carriage in any position between full up and full down (board angled out for use) will be accomplished by the cam lock handles shown earlier.
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Arcticf7ext
Member
Bump to the top...
I can't let this sit on Page 4...I'm sure I'm not the only checking regular progress and hunting for "The Asylum"...
Thanks for the detail on the projects.
I can't let this sit on Page 4...I'm sure I'm not the only checking regular progress and hunting for "The Asylum"...
Thanks for the detail on the projects.
WOW - I just posted last week! There must be a lot of activity on here lately.
Thanks for watching out for your fellow garage enthusiasts.
DRAWING BOARD FINAL VIEWS (PART 4 – IT’S FUNCTIONAL AT LAST)...
A few shots of just the mount brackets on the wall:
And some with the board and drafting machine attached:
Things left to do:
- Replace green mat (Gray one ordered, coming Friday)
- Make pull cable to simultaneously pull lock pins (1/16” cable purchased).
- Refinish stain/varnish on lower wood pencil tray (maybe someday)
A few shots of just the mount brackets on the wall:
And some with the board and drafting machine attached:
Things left to do:
- Replace green mat (Gray one ordered, coming Friday)
- Make pull cable to simultaneously pull lock pins (1/16” cable purchased).
- Refinish stain/varnish on lower wood pencil tray (maybe someday)
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THE OLD LATHE GETS A NEW CHUCK…
So now I don't need to chuck the old lathe
. Actually this lathe has been in the family for quite some time so it's a keeper.
I needed to make some special motorcycle parts on the lathe last week so I wheeled out the trusty 12" Atlas. After spending more time centering the work part in the independent 4-jaw chuck then actually turning the part, I decided to do something about it. I found a “reasonably priced” 3-jaw scroll chuck on ebay and scooped it up. I can't wait to give it a try! And yes, the lathe is still mounted on the low cart you see in reply #28 so I had to sit on the floor to run it. Someday it will have a proper table to rest on - with wheels of course! And a quick change tool post is on the wish list too!
So now I don't need to chuck the old lathe
. Actually this lathe has been in the family for quite some time so it's a keeper.I needed to make some special motorcycle parts on the lathe last week so I wheeled out the trusty 12" Atlas. After spending more time centering the work part in the independent 4-jaw chuck then actually turning the part, I decided to do something about it. I found a “reasonably priced” 3-jaw scroll chuck on ebay and scooped it up. I can't wait to give it a try! And yes, the lathe is still mounted on the low cart you see in reply #28 so I had to sit on the floor to run it. Someday it will have a proper table to rest on - with wheels of course! And a quick change tool post is on the wish list too!
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THE BACK SHOP WALL GETS ROUGH FRAMED…
Now that the crane wall is sided, I'm continuing with the framing around the back wall. The first pictures show the results after I finished it and slapped some black paint on the areas I knew would be exposed. In the second picture, you can see a sheet of cardboard that shows where a “roof” will be located to cover the built-in bin storage. This storage area will have a swing-up checkered flag door like the rest.
Here are some shots with the workbenches, fluorescent light, and white access door temporarily set in place to help me plan this all out. This lower wall will be covered in the aluminum tileboard and the access door will be painted black. The door will hide my cordless tool chargers. The main elect panel door will also be painted black to match everything.
Here are some close-ups of the docking workbench system I have planned. The top stationary work surface will be built about 4” higher than what’s shown and I’m thinking I will clad this with laminate flooring like I did in the office so hopefully I can find some that looks like stainless. I will make it easy to replace so I can give it a “facelift” from time-to-time. Lastly, the rolling bench will be painted yellow/black to match the cabinets.
One last shot of the wall with some storage bins in place. The packrat side of me is already getting excited about the extra room!
Exhaust fan intake louvers will be located just to the left of the lower crane-wall window.
The large square area just to the right of the bin storage area will be reserved for a flat screen TV. The conduit above the main electrical panel limits it’s depth to 10-12” but that will give me plenty to fit in the TV with a door to cover it up when not in use. One of those mini Nascar hoods on a hinge might work out nicely - its time to start looking. I also need to start looking for a cheap 37” LCD to squeeze in there - maybe a good Black Friday holiday sale (???).
Now that the crane wall is sided, I'm continuing with the framing around the back wall. The first pictures show the results after I finished it and slapped some black paint on the areas I knew would be exposed. In the second picture, you can see a sheet of cardboard that shows where a “roof” will be located to cover the built-in bin storage. This storage area will have a swing-up checkered flag door like the rest.
Here are some shots with the workbenches, fluorescent light, and white access door temporarily set in place to help me plan this all out. This lower wall will be covered in the aluminum tileboard and the access door will be painted black. The door will hide my cordless tool chargers. The main elect panel door will also be painted black to match everything.
Here are some close-ups of the docking workbench system I have planned. The top stationary work surface will be built about 4” higher than what’s shown and I’m thinking I will clad this with laminate flooring like I did in the office so hopefully I can find some that looks like stainless. I will make it easy to replace so I can give it a “facelift” from time-to-time. Lastly, the rolling bench will be painted yellow/black to match the cabinets.
One last shot of the wall with some storage bins in place. The packrat side of me is already getting excited about the extra room!
Exhaust fan intake louvers will be located just to the left of the lower crane-wall window. The large square area just to the right of the bin storage area will be reserved for a flat screen TV. The conduit above the main electrical panel limits it’s depth to 10-12” but that will give me plenty to fit in the TV with a door to cover it up when not in use. One of those mini Nascar hoods on a hinge might work out nicely - its time to start looking. I also need to start looking for a cheap 37” LCD to squeeze in there - maybe a good Black Friday holiday sale (???).
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THE EXHAUST FAN DUCT IS JUST A LITTLE CLOSER…
Before I framed in the wall of the vertical fan duct, I had to spend some time running all the wiring for the extra lights in the back of the main bay and installing the final wiring to the fan. The framing would have just gotten in the way. There is quite a bit of electrical work remaining on the back wall behind the workbench and that will be my focus in the next few weeks. My goal is to make the wall look finished but allow complete access behind the main panel for future changes/additions.
I still need to install insulation in the outer wall of the duct and then cover it with paneling. Duct will be clad with white vinyl siding to match the rest of the shop interior. I plan to make some homemade intake louvers from pieces of the siding – gravity will hold them shut, the incoming air will open them. One edge of the vinyl has a J-lip built in and I think this is going to pivot nicely on a small diameter horizontal rod to form each louver.
Once the vertical duct is completely finished, I will add the light fixtures in the horizontal section above the windows and finish it off. I’m waiting to do the horizontal section until all work is done on the walls directly below since my scaffold is too tall to fit underneath it once framed in. See – there IS a method to my madness.
Before I framed in the wall of the vertical fan duct, I had to spend some time running all the wiring for the extra lights in the back of the main bay and installing the final wiring to the fan. The framing would have just gotten in the way. There is quite a bit of electrical work remaining on the back wall behind the workbench and that will be my focus in the next few weeks. My goal is to make the wall look finished but allow complete access behind the main panel for future changes/additions.
I still need to install insulation in the outer wall of the duct and then cover it with paneling. Duct will be clad with white vinyl siding to match the rest of the shop interior. I plan to make some homemade intake louvers from pieces of the siding – gravity will hold them shut, the incoming air will open them. One edge of the vinyl has a J-lip built in and I think this is going to pivot nicely on a small diameter horizontal rod to form each louver.
Once the vertical duct is completely finished, I will add the light fixtures in the horizontal section above the windows and finish it off. I’m waiting to do the horizontal section until all work is done on the walls directly below since my scaffold is too tall to fit underneath it once framed in. See – there IS a method to my madness.
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I’M OVER FORTY AND MY EYES AREN'T GETTING ANY BETTER…
So the main workbench gets a built-in task light for those precision jobs. Over the years while laying there getting my teeth worked on, I couldn’t help but notice the cool lights they use. About two years ago, found a good deal on ebay and had this one stored away since then. I had to build a sturdy bracket to mount the pivot tube between two studs hidden in the wall. Before I’m all through, it will be painted to match the decor. (Update: I found a couple more lights cheap and one is already painted silver - scratch that off the list!)
The pictures demonstrate the flexibility of this light and it’s effortless to move it around.
There’s a lot of high quality equipment in medical/food industry – it’s worth considering some to make your shop-life more enjoyable. These lights are over $1000 new but you can find them used for under $100 if you look around. Be warned that shipping can be expensive ($40-50), though. And replacement bulbs, I believe, are around $25.
Edit 3/24/2011: Bulbs can be purchased for around $7 on ebay.
So the main workbench gets a built-in task light for those precision jobs. Over the years while laying there getting my teeth worked on, I couldn’t help but notice the cool lights they use. About two years ago, found a good deal on ebay and had this one stored away since then. I had to build a sturdy bracket to mount the pivot tube between two studs hidden in the wall. Before I’m all through, it will be painted to match the decor. (Update: I found a couple more lights cheap and one is already painted silver - scratch that off the list!)
The pictures demonstrate the flexibility of this light and it’s effortless to move it around.
There’s a lot of high quality equipment in medical/food industry – it’s worth considering some to make your shop-life more enjoyable. These lights are over $1000 new but you can find them used for under $100 if you look around. Be warned that shipping can be expensive ($40-50), though. And replacement bulbs, I believe, are around $25.
Edit 3/24/2011: Bulbs can be purchased for around $7 on ebay.
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BOY - DID I WASTE SOME TIME THE OTHER DAY…
After much measuring and planning, I finally figured out where to position everything on the wall behind the main workbench. The plan involved moving the main electrical panel over about 12” to the right, allowing another cabinet to fit on the left (similar to the one that will house the drill chargers. This one would have contained the 7-day timers. No big deal right? Just about all the branch circuits exiting the box were flexible conduit. Even the large 2” nonmetallic conduit had enough exposed line to let this happen. There was one solid conduit I had to replace with flex and that didn’t take too long. After doing a few more little things in preparation I final called it a night. It was just too late (and dark) to be shutting power down that night anyway.
So I wake up the next day ready to get this over with and have one last look at it before I shut down the power and start the job. That’s when I see it – the conduit for the main 4/0 service entrance wires coming through the wall from the back side! I must have checked behind there 4 or 5 times for obstructions. Well, I wasn’t going to go through the trouble of moving all that. I felt like such a nimrod (no offense intended NimRod, if you’re reading this). After kicking myself in the head a few times, I came up with another plan that will work almost as nice.
It just goes to show you can spend all the time you want planning things – once in a while things just don’t go right.
After much measuring and planning, I finally figured out where to position everything on the wall behind the main workbench. The plan involved moving the main electrical panel over about 12” to the right, allowing another cabinet to fit on the left (similar to the one that will house the drill chargers. This one would have contained the 7-day timers. No big deal right? Just about all the branch circuits exiting the box were flexible conduit. Even the large 2” nonmetallic conduit had enough exposed line to let this happen. There was one solid conduit I had to replace with flex and that didn’t take too long. After doing a few more little things in preparation I final called it a night. It was just too late (and dark) to be shutting power down that night anyway.
So I wake up the next day ready to get this over with and have one last look at it before I shut down the power and start the job. That’s when I see it – the conduit for the main 4/0 service entrance wires coming through the wall from the back side! I must have checked behind there 4 or 5 times for obstructions. Well, I wasn’t going to go through the trouble of moving all that. I felt like such a nimrod (no offense intended NimRod, if you’re reading this). After kicking myself in the head a few times, I came up with another plan that will work almost as nice.
It just goes to show you can spend all the time you want planning things – once in a while things just don’t go right.
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NOW THAT THE WEATHER IS COOLING OFF, IT’S TIME TO MAKE A PROJECT LIST FOR THE WINTER MONTHS…
I must say, even with the long hot summer, I ended up getting quite a bit accomplished during the hot half of the year. But, it always seems that my productivity increases a bunch when the temps drop below 80F (the other half of the year).
So, it’s time to make a list of all the things I’m going to get done on the ASYLUM in the next six months. Most relate to finishing the upstairs project started in early 2008. I find it easier to stay on track with long-term projects if I make lists and try to put them in the general order in which they need to be accomplished (this list isn’t quite in order yet). I will probably be editing this post as I think of more things and to check things off as I get them done.
In nearly all cases, I already have the material purchased so there is very little extra money needed moving forward. The only thing stopping me from knocking them out now is time. I guess I will be happy if I get half this stuff done!
My priorities are still set on getting the ASYLUM more-or-less finished before any major work gets done on the vehicles. I’m getting closer to that day!
Link to next Task List (reply#315)
ASYLUM Task List:
Office (Upstairs) Interior
* Finish installing trim around bay window and workbenches
* Install new cover on drawing board
Office Exterior
* Install tileboard on “external” wall (below 10 foot level)
* Install whiteboard for sketching ideas (above jack nook)
* Make checkered flag door banners
* Build/Install checkered flag door to hide between-floor storage bins
* Finish roof and trim on bay window
* Add half window in first floor apartment door (???)
Stairway
* Install aluminum diamond plate and rubber on treads
* Install tileboard on risers and stringer sides
* Install window sills and door casings
Sink/Jack Nook (under stairs)
* Plumbing for SS sink and add skirting to hide pipes
* Plumbing for shop clothes washer
* Install three SS cabinets above sink
* Build shelf for Audio/Video equipment
* Install all tileboard and black trim
* Add large drawer for jack stands in jack nook
* Add door to jack nook
Crane
* Install cable carrier system for power cabling to hoist
* Install hoist-mounted spotlight (controlled with wall switch)
* Install crane-mounted power cable reel
* Install lift rings in main rafter above for servicing (leveling) crane
* Install removable pull ring at base of crane column
* Final leveling of crane beam
Main Bay (12x13’ area adjacent to stairway)
* Install fluorescent light fixtures in bottom of exhaust fan duct
* Install fluorescent light fixture above main workbench
* Install dental light above main workbench
* Finish exhaust fan duct framing
* Build louvers (2X) for exhaust fan
* Install white vinyl siding on fan duct
* Install “Library Ladder” system using an old barn track system along with extension ladder (currently on scaffold). I acquired the track and trolley parts from my parent’s dairy barn before they sold the old homestead. I have enough track rail to continue around most of the perimeter of the tall main bay someday, and it will allow access to storage areas, servicing light fixtures, general cleanup, etc.
* Build full width back wall storage area above window with false roof to hide electrical and storage bins (also will have checkered flag door)
* Replace clerestory fiberglass panels with sliding windows (needs to happen in dry months)
* Insulate back wall
* Insulate back ceiling
* Insulate wall opposite the office
* Install white vinyl siding on back wall
* Install white vinyl siding on ceiling
* Install white vinyl siding on wall opposite the office
* Trim out wall by main panel and include service door for timer boxes
Electrical
* Rearrange breakers in main panel
* Add GFCI outlets next to main panel for all shop receptacle circuits (they are spread all over the place right now)(GFI main panel breakers are too big/costly)
* Install timers
* Install UPS (Backup power)
* Wiring for new light fixtures in main bay
* Remove solid conduit to main panel
MISC Project List:
* Rolling workbench – add table support props and paint to match
* Lathe Cart – Build heavy duty version to dock in window nook
* Portable Air Tank – Convert spare 30gal compressor tank (with wheels) to function like one of those portable carry-around tanks.
* Chevelle – Replace rusted header collectors
* Chevelle – Replace fuel line tubing
* Chevelle – Replace transmission cooler line tubing
* Chevelle – Replace heater core
* Corvette – Fix leaky brake calipers (again!)
* Corvette – Fix clogged A/C expansion valve (again!)
With all these things done, the shop will look fairly complete and I will probably take a good break from it all. Two more walls will still need something done to them to complete the ASYLUM. One is already drywalled and painted so there is no big hurry, but I still plan to build some shallow (12” deep) storage cabinets to hold all sorts of things. I have a healthy supply of aluminum tileboard and pegboard so most likely they will have sliding doors made from the tileboard with pegboard interiors to match the rest of the shop. The other wall has the 3 roll-up doors in it so there really isn’t much “wall” left.
At some point, we have plans to add a bedroom wing (approx 12’x12’) off from the kitchen and at the same time add a deck and enclosed screen room facing the lake. If willing, we hope to have the original contractor of the ASYLUM knock out most of it quickly, so hopefully it won’t be a long drawn-out project like most of my other ones.
Okay – that’s enough dreaming for now.
I must say, even with the long hot summer, I ended up getting quite a bit accomplished during the hot half of the year. But, it always seems that my productivity increases a bunch when the temps drop below 80F (the other half of the year).
So, it’s time to make a list of all the things I’m going to get done on the ASYLUM in the next six months. Most relate to finishing the upstairs project started in early 2008. I find it easier to stay on track with long-term projects if I make lists and try to put them in the general order in which they need to be accomplished (this list isn’t quite in order yet). I will probably be editing this post as I think of more things and to check things off as I get them done.
In nearly all cases, I already have the material purchased so there is very little extra money needed moving forward. The only thing stopping me from knocking them out now is time. I guess I will be happy if I get half this stuff done!
My priorities are still set on getting the ASYLUM more-or-less finished before any major work gets done on the vehicles. I’m getting closer to that day!
Link to next Task List (reply#315)
ASYLUM Task List:
Office (Upstairs) Interior
* Finish installing trim around bay window and workbenches
* Install new cover on drawing board
Office Exterior
* Install tileboard on “external” wall (below 10 foot level)
* Install whiteboard for sketching ideas (above jack nook)
* Make checkered flag door banners
* Build/Install checkered flag door to hide between-floor storage bins
* Finish roof and trim on bay window
* Add half window in first floor apartment door (???)
Stairway
* Install aluminum diamond plate and rubber on treads
* Install tileboard on risers and stringer sides
* Install window sills and door casings
Sink/Jack Nook (under stairs)
* Plumbing for SS sink and add skirting to hide pipes
* Plumbing for shop clothes washer
* Install three SS cabinets above sink
* Build shelf for Audio/Video equipment
* Install all tileboard and black trim
* Add large drawer for jack stands in jack nook
* Add door to jack nook
Crane
* Install cable carrier system for power cabling to hoist
* Install hoist-mounted spotlight (controlled with wall switch)
* Install crane-mounted power cable reel
* Install lift rings in main rafter above for servicing (leveling) crane
* Install removable pull ring at base of crane column
* Final leveling of crane beam
Main Bay (12x13’ area adjacent to stairway)
* Install fluorescent light fixtures in bottom of exhaust fan duct
* Install fluorescent light fixture above main workbench
* Install dental light above main workbench
* Finish exhaust fan duct framing
* Build louvers (2X) for exhaust fan
* Install white vinyl siding on fan duct
* Install “Library Ladder” system using an old barn track system along with extension ladder (currently on scaffold). I acquired the track and trolley parts from my parent’s dairy barn before they sold the old homestead. I have enough track rail to continue around most of the perimeter of the tall main bay someday, and it will allow access to storage areas, servicing light fixtures, general cleanup, etc.
* Build full width back wall storage area above window with false roof to hide electrical and storage bins (also will have checkered flag door)
* Replace clerestory fiberglass panels with sliding windows (needs to happen in dry months)
* Insulate back wall
* Insulate back ceiling
* Insulate wall opposite the office
* Install white vinyl siding on back wall
* Install white vinyl siding on ceiling
* Install white vinyl siding on wall opposite the office
* Trim out wall by main panel and include service door for timer boxes
Electrical
* Rearrange breakers in main panel
* Add GFCI outlets next to main panel for all shop receptacle circuits (they are spread all over the place right now)(GFI main panel breakers are too big/costly)
* Install timers
* Install UPS (Backup power)
* Wiring for new light fixtures in main bay
* Remove solid conduit to main panel
MISC Project List:
* Rolling workbench – add table support props and paint to match
* Lathe Cart – Build heavy duty version to dock in window nook
* Portable Air Tank – Convert spare 30gal compressor tank (with wheels) to function like one of those portable carry-around tanks.
* Chevelle – Replace rusted header collectors
* Chevelle – Replace fuel line tubing
* Chevelle – Replace transmission cooler line tubing
* Chevelle – Replace heater core
* Corvette – Fix leaky brake calipers (again!)
* Corvette – Fix clogged A/C expansion valve (again!)
With all these things done, the shop will look fairly complete and I will probably take a good break from it all. Two more walls will still need something done to them to complete the ASYLUM. One is already drywalled and painted so there is no big hurry, but I still plan to build some shallow (12” deep) storage cabinets to hold all sorts of things. I have a healthy supply of aluminum tileboard and pegboard so most likely they will have sliding doors made from the tileboard with pegboard interiors to match the rest of the shop. The other wall has the 3 roll-up doors in it so there really isn’t much “wall” left.
At some point, we have plans to add a bedroom wing (approx 12’x12’) off from the kitchen and at the same time add a deck and enclosed screen room facing the lake. If willing, we hope to have the original contractor of the ASYLUM knock out most of it quickly, so hopefully it won’t be a long drawn-out project like most of my other ones.
Okay – that’s enough dreaming for now.
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gonzoengineer
Well-known member
Very, very nice setup -- I love the vinyl idea for the ceilings; I have a similar structure and that would work perfectly. The fact that it seems to be less than desirable to the spiders is a definite plus.
Edit: I'm up to speed now -- very cool thread, full of great ideas and use of space.
Edit: I'm up to speed now -- very cool thread, full of great ideas and use of space.
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THE BACK WALL ELECTRICAL IS FINISHED…
Here are some pictures. The overall shot shows the drill charger area on the left (with task light above), the vertical bank of GFI outlets, the main panel, and the timer area on the right. I still need to hook up the fluorescent lights but the wires are all installed. I intended the “bank” of GFI outlets to be out of sight inside a cabinet to the left of the main panel, but not being able to move the main panel foiled that idea. Actually, I think it will be okay this way, since I can see a tripped GFI light from across the shop in the position they’re in. The only bad thing is, I will now have to swap the white outlets with black ones to match the décor. While I had the power turned off, I also cleaned up the main panel a bit and now I have 4 extra breaker slots for future expansion. The last shot shows the access behind the main panel for servicing later on.
Timers: I installed two timers next to the main service panel and they will be enclosed in a cabinet. One is a high-amp mechanical 7-day unit to control the water heater. There are some extra switched contacts available should I decide to include other things in the future (maybe air compressor/drill chargers ???). I have this one preset for the days I’m usually there. If I show up other days, it’s easy to override.
The second one is a small digital in-wall unit for switching the “night lights”. This circuit currently includes the Chevy Bowties on the front of the office, some lighted signs, and the backlighting for the storage loft doors (red Chevelle and Corvette banners). It’s enough light to keep me from stumbling over stuff if I run out in the shop to grab something at night. The switched output wire of the light timer is routed through the main high-amp timer so even though the small timer is telling the lights to come on, the big timer still has ultimate control to keep them off on the days I’m not there. The goal was to have one master switch to flip when I arrived or left.
The air compressor, drill chargers/task light, and exhaust fan are on mechanical spring-wound 12-hour countdown timers. The idea here is if I need to use any of them for the day, I just wind up the timer up to the estimated duration of use and it shuts off automatically later.
Battery Backup: Short power outages seem to be a common occurrence here so I have the high-amp timer clock and my double-faced electric clock powered from an uninterrupted power supply (UPS). It’s essentially a battery backup for a desktop computer. I also plug my stereo into the UPS because if power is lost even for a second while I’m playing one of my MP3 CDs, it resets back to the beginning of the playlist, and that is annoying. The surge protection offered by the UPS probably isn’t a bad idea for the stereo anyway.
Here are some pictures. The overall shot shows the drill charger area on the left (with task light above), the vertical bank of GFI outlets, the main panel, and the timer area on the right. I still need to hook up the fluorescent lights but the wires are all installed. I intended the “bank” of GFI outlets to be out of sight inside a cabinet to the left of the main panel, but not being able to move the main panel foiled that idea. Actually, I think it will be okay this way, since I can see a tripped GFI light from across the shop in the position they’re in. The only bad thing is, I will now have to swap the white outlets with black ones to match the décor. While I had the power turned off, I also cleaned up the main panel a bit and now I have 4 extra breaker slots for future expansion. The last shot shows the access behind the main panel for servicing later on.
Timers: I installed two timers next to the main service panel and they will be enclosed in a cabinet. One is a high-amp mechanical 7-day unit to control the water heater. There are some extra switched contacts available should I decide to include other things in the future (maybe air compressor/drill chargers ???). I have this one preset for the days I’m usually there. If I show up other days, it’s easy to override.
The second one is a small digital in-wall unit for switching the “night lights”. This circuit currently includes the Chevy Bowties on the front of the office, some lighted signs, and the backlighting for the storage loft doors (red Chevelle and Corvette banners). It’s enough light to keep me from stumbling over stuff if I run out in the shop to grab something at night. The switched output wire of the light timer is routed through the main high-amp timer so even though the small timer is telling the lights to come on, the big timer still has ultimate control to keep them off on the days I’m not there. The goal was to have one master switch to flip when I arrived or left.
The air compressor, drill chargers/task light, and exhaust fan are on mechanical spring-wound 12-hour countdown timers. The idea here is if I need to use any of them for the day, I just wind up the timer up to the estimated duration of use and it shuts off automatically later.
Battery Backup: Short power outages seem to be a common occurrence here so I have the high-amp timer clock and my double-faced electric clock powered from an uninterrupted power supply (UPS). It’s essentially a battery backup for a desktop computer. I also plug my stereo into the UPS because if power is lost even for a second while I’m playing one of my MP3 CDs, it resets back to the beginning of the playlist, and that is annoying. The surge protection offered by the UPS probably isn’t a bad idea for the stereo anyway.
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Great job so far. Grouping the GFI breakers near the main panel and feeding the rest of the circuit from the load side of the GFI is a very cost effective way to achieve the safety and protection the GFI gives you. I may need to borrow that idea when I add the extra circuits to my garage. Also, nice work on the panelboard schedule, its very rare to find one that is 100% accurate.
THE BACK WALL IS LOOKING MORE FINISHED…
First, I spent a little time insulating a small section of the exterior wall and then installing some paneling over it. This will become the inside surface of the vertical exhaust fan duct.
I then concentrated my efforts on the trimming out the wall around the electrical box and got probably halfway through it. I used the same aluminum tileboard used throughout the shop to trim it out and it will have black corner trim when finished. The white aluminum doors will eventually be painted yellow with black frames to match the shop décor. I think the gray breaker box door will be painted solid black (to match the bank of GFI outlets to the left) and have a big “Danger - High Voltage” decal on it. I found a second dental light that is already painted silver to replace the beige one, plus it has really cool cast aluminum handles.
Here are some shots with the doors open, revealing drill chargers on the left and timers on the right. Close-up views show the labeling on the faceplates, on the romex wire, and on the armor-clad cabling behind the panel (blue/white labels) for future reference. Remaining white GFI outlets will be replaced with black ones when I go back in that box to hook up the last fluorescent lights over the workbench.
First, I spent a little time insulating a small section of the exterior wall and then installing some paneling over it. This will become the inside surface of the vertical exhaust fan duct.
I then concentrated my efforts on the trimming out the wall around the electrical box and got probably halfway through it. I used the same aluminum tileboard used throughout the shop to trim it out and it will have black corner trim when finished. The white aluminum doors will eventually be painted yellow with black frames to match the shop décor. I think the gray breaker box door will be painted solid black (to match the bank of GFI outlets to the left) and have a big “Danger - High Voltage” decal on it. I found a second dental light that is already painted silver to replace the beige one, plus it has really cool cast aluminum handles.
Here are some shots with the doors open, revealing drill chargers on the left and timers on the right. Close-up views show the labeling on the faceplates, on the romex wire, and on the armor-clad cabling behind the panel (blue/white labels) for future reference. Remaining white GFI outlets will be replaced with black ones when I go back in that box to hook up the last fluorescent lights over the workbench.
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DIYnotBUY
Active member
alright so i spent the last 3 days at work(mind you) looking at this thread and from time to time wiping the little bits of drool that escape the corner of my mouth. Your ideas are ingenious and make the tools and ideas that i have for my shop look..........so easy a caveman could do it!! haha. I was wondering and it could have been covered in an earlier post but how deep is the underfloor storage for pipe and wood?? I know the height and width dimentions but not the depth. I have been trying to think of good storage for such things and i think i can turn your idea into a built in ceiling drop down style in my 8' celing shop. I do have loft storage since i went with a 5 12 pitch but not alot and there is no ease of access when it comes to that. I see tons of mechanical also and it is a hot rod builders dream shop but do you do wood projects as well that dont have to do with the shop??
. I do have loft storage since i went with a 5 12 pitch but not alot and there is no ease of access when it comes to that. I see tons of mechanical also and it is a hot rod builders dream shop but do you do wood projects as well that dont have to do with the shop??alright so i spent the last 3 days at work(mind you) looking at this thread and from time to time wiping the little bits of drool that escape the corner of my mouth. Your ideas are ingenious and make the tools and ideas that i have for my shop look..........so easy a caveman could do it!! haha. I was wondering and it could have been covered in an earlier post but how deep is the underfloor storage for pipe and wood?? I know the height and width dimentions but not the depth. I have been trying to think of good storage for such things and i think i can turn your idea into a built in ceiling drop down style in my 8' celing shop
Thanks DIY.
If you're talking about the storage lofts with the corvette and chevelle banners for doors, the lofts themselves are about 10 feet deep at the bottom, and of course, get narrower as you go up. I have a 4/12 pitch on my roof. The narrow bins built underneath are about 12 feet deep (the full width of the lofts).
If you're asking about the "between-floor" storage under the office, in general they go back in there 10 feet. There are some pictures in replies 87 and 89, but here are a few more to explain it better. The dryer and bathroom exhaust ducting shortened up some of them. It could have been a bit deeper but I ran one 2x8 perpendicular to the rest near the back wall to provide a large passageway for routing stuff later. Reaching down in the J-box access hole in the corner of the office floor (shown in reply 194) should make fishing stuff through pretty easy.
First tier:
Second tier:
Now - get back to work before you get fired!
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DIYnotBUY
Active member
awesome thanks for the info. I think im gonna make a built in the is attached to the ceiling and hangs down like 2' and make it like 2'x2'x8' deep and divide into compartments. Great build again!!
THAT MINI BLIND HAS BEEN SITTING IN A BOX FOR 3 YEARS…
I bought enough of the aluminum blinds years ago to do all the windows in the shop – it’s nice to finally have them all up. I only had one day to mess around but I got the rest of the paneling up around the window. Some of the black trim is also installed but more is needed around the GFIs and dental light recess.
The new silver-colored dental light is installed. It is a different model so there were some issues fitting it in the pocket, but I think I have that figured out. Lastly, I did a little painting. The white doors were pulled off and the frames were painted black. Once the black dries, I will paint the doors yellow. I also painted the housing of the fluorescent light black to match.
I bought enough of the aluminum blinds years ago to do all the windows in the shop – it’s nice to finally have them all up. I only had one day to mess around but I got the rest of the paneling up around the window. Some of the black trim is also installed but more is needed around the GFIs and dental light recess.
The new silver-colored dental light is installed. It is a different model so there were some issues fitting it in the pocket, but I think I have that figured out. Lastly, I did a little painting. The white doors were pulled off and the frames were painted black. Once the black dries, I will paint the doors yellow. I also painted the housing of the fluorescent light black to match.
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USMCBay
Well-known member
Mr. that's one fine piece of land you have there!!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
The first thing I did this time was paint the yellow doors so they would dry by the time I wanted to install them. With those drying, I insulated and cut the panel for the lower section of the wall.
I’m very close to finishing this back wall area. The yellow access and black electrical doors are up, the temporary panel (where the flatscreen TV will reside someday) is cut and installed, and the fluorescent light is inserted in it’s recess. If you look closely, you will see I also installed the 8’ hinge tube for the bin storage door – now it’s time to sew up another checkered flag banner. Other things left to do are install the black corner trim, install the door panel covering the fluor. light, and a few little odds and ends.
Santa brought a Quick Change Tool Post for the lathe and I spent a bit of time machining a special T-slot nut to adapt it to my carriage. More to come on this.
The first thing I did this time was paint the yellow doors so they would dry by the time I wanted to install them. With those drying, I insulated and cut the panel for the lower section of the wall.
I’m very close to finishing this back wall area. The yellow access and black electrical doors are up, the temporary panel (where the flatscreen TV will reside someday) is cut and installed, and the fluorescent light is inserted in it’s recess. If you look closely, you will see I also installed the 8’ hinge tube for the bin storage door – now it’s time to sew up another checkered flag banner. Other things left to do are install the black corner trim, install the door panel covering the fluor. light, and a few little odds and ends.
Santa brought a Quick Change Tool Post for the lathe and I spent a bit of time machining a special T-slot nut to adapt it to my carriage. More to come on this.
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DIYnotBUY
Active member
how do you find the time to get so much done? just your planning thought process takes forever just because like a true craftsman everything is meticulous, do you just spend alot of time at home planning and drawing out your ideas then get to the shop and execute as much as possible??
DIY,
You're pretty spot-on with your assumption - I do a lot of the planning at home and try to make the most of my time out there. I DO end up dreaming a lot while I'm in the shop trying to visualize every detail as a stare at the half-finished walls. A few beers usually helps this process at the end of the day. Actually, a majority of my planning is done in my head, main ideas get captured on a hand sketch so I don't forget them (because it will probably be months before I get to them), and the major layout work is done in a CAD file (like the stairway or window/door placement).
I purchase all my supplies before arriving so I don't have to run back out (1 hour minimum round trip to hardware store) and if I get stuck because I'm missing something, I just jump to another project (there's plenty to jump to at the moment).
A typical day out there starts by 7-8am and work continues until about midnight, including a couple of 20 min breaks to eat something. There typically aren't any distractions so I stay pretty focused. Needless to say, I normally sleep great out there!
I SHOULD BE ASHAMED…
After writing that last response about working so hard when I’m out here, this time I threw in the towel early and headed home to the warmth. I really planned on just checking for frozen/cracked water pipes this last trip, but thought if I was ambitious I could stay a bit longer. Well, the extended stay didn’t happen and I decided to head home and work on some of the bike projects (one of them is a heated seat!). The shop did progress slightly this week since I installed the newly painted wall plate for the welder outlet, sewed up the checkered flag banner for the storage door, and made some electrical warning decals for the main electrical panel door.
I also discovered that Stanley Tools was having a sale on the yellow cabinet parts and I ordered 10 spare doors (five LH/RH sets) to install on the rolling workbench and lathe cabinet. This should give them that integrated look.
After writing that last response about working so hard when I’m out here, this time I threw in the towel early and headed home to the warmth. I really planned on just checking for frozen/cracked water pipes this last trip, but thought if I was ambitious I could stay a bit longer. Well, the extended stay didn’t happen and I decided to head home and work on some of the bike projects (one of them is a heated seat!). The shop did progress slightly this week since I installed the newly painted wall plate for the welder outlet, sewed up the checkered flag banner for the storage door, and made some electrical warning decals for the main electrical panel door.
I also discovered that Stanley Tools was having a sale on the yellow cabinet parts and I ordered 10 spare doors (five LH/RH sets) to install on the rolling workbench and lathe cabinet. This should give them that integrated look.
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
Well don't worry about it too much..we all have them days LOL
I’M BACK ON TRACK - THE BACK WALL IS FINISHED…
Well, at least everything from the ground up to about 10ft high is completed. I need to tackle that white vinyl and exhaust fan duct next to completely wrap up this wall.
I got the PVC frame made for the checkered flag door and installed it. I took a series of pictures during the construction of the banner door and will post the whole procedure shortly. I also built the tileboard door that allows access above the fluorescent light and completed all the black corner trim. It’s nice to have it finally match the rest of the place.
This picture shows that the door will not close with a battery in the charger. This reminds me to remove them when charged since my batteries explicitly say to not leave them on the charger.
Since the screw holes were still in the plywood, I mounted one of my towel dispensers back up temporarily. Eventually I will repaint the base of this yellow and probably mount it closer to the sink.
Well, at least everything from the ground up to about 10ft high is completed. I need to tackle that white vinyl and exhaust fan duct next to completely wrap up this wall.
I got the PVC frame made for the checkered flag door and installed it. I took a series of pictures during the construction of the banner door and will post the whole procedure shortly. I also built the tileboard door that allows access above the fluorescent light and completed all the black corner trim. It’s nice to have it finally match the rest of the place.
This picture shows that the door will not close with a battery in the charger. This reminds me to remove them when charged since my batteries explicitly say to not leave them on the charger.
Since the screw holes were still in the plywood, I mounted one of my towel dispensers back up temporarily. Eventually I will repaint the base of this yellow and probably mount it closer to the sink.
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MAKING A PVC BANNER DOOR, PART 1
I just recently made the 4th door of this type and I think I have the procedure figured out, so I will document it so I can refer back to it for doors 5 and 6 later on. It is really quite easy and inexpensive to do and would work for any size banner you have.
The hinge pipe is a chain link fence top rail, which is available at the home improvement stores in the garden area. Maximum length is about 10ft after you cut the necked-down portion off. 1-1/4 PVC pipe fits and hinges perfectly on this pipe. The rest of the PVC is made from 1” pipe. For best results, make the perimeter of your banner match the centerline of the PVC frame. Be careful cutting your pipe length - the different fittings have different socket depths.
Here is a picture of the pieces. At this point, I don’t cut the center pipes sections yet because they are precisely measured after the side sections are glued together to give the overall frame size needed.
With the pieces cut, glue the two outside hoops together. I don’t bother using any primer - this isn’t going to be under pressure. Most PVC pipe has writing running the length of the pipe and you want to hide this. I actually glue the hoops with the backside facing up so I can be sure this writing is facing up. The fittings will also sometimes have writing on them so position them correctly too. I found if you buy the contractor packs of fittings, they sometimes don’t have the UPC codes stamped on them, so then you don’t have to worry about them. With the side hoops finished, its now time to measure a cut the center pipe sections to achieve your overall frame width.
You will need to come up with a way to mount the pipe to your wall. I use blocks that look like this.
I made my doors so you can open them by pulling a rope while standing on the ground. To do this, I added a pipe extending back into the storage area that gets pulled to swing the door up. I never considered this very clever but everyone that sees it is always impressed - go figure. This pipe is roughly at 90 degrees to the rest of the frame but I like to temporarily install one of the side hoops on the hinge pipe and glue the tee fitting for the pull pipe in place to give me the maximum door swing possible. Note the door in the background is fully opened so the pull pipe is up against the door frame.
To keep the pull rope from rubbing on the corner, I installed a roller and added a bent wire over it to keep the rope from jumping off. To hold the door open, I use a sailboat rope jam cleat. To finish it off, I use a pull cord handle from a chainsaw or string trimmer.
(Continued)
I just recently made the 4th door of this type and I think I have the procedure figured out, so I will document it so I can refer back to it for doors 5 and 6 later on. It is really quite easy and inexpensive to do and would work for any size banner you have.
The hinge pipe is a chain link fence top rail, which is available at the home improvement stores in the garden area. Maximum length is about 10ft after you cut the necked-down portion off. 1-1/4 PVC pipe fits and hinges perfectly on this pipe. The rest of the PVC is made from 1” pipe. For best results, make the perimeter of your banner match the centerline of the PVC frame. Be careful cutting your pipe length - the different fittings have different socket depths.
Here is a picture of the pieces. At this point, I don’t cut the center pipes sections yet because they are precisely measured after the side sections are glued together to give the overall frame size needed.
With the pieces cut, glue the two outside hoops together. I don’t bother using any primer - this isn’t going to be under pressure. Most PVC pipe has writing running the length of the pipe and you want to hide this. I actually glue the hoops with the backside facing up so I can be sure this writing is facing up. The fittings will also sometimes have writing on them so position them correctly too. I found if you buy the contractor packs of fittings, they sometimes don’t have the UPC codes stamped on them, so then you don’t have to worry about them. With the side hoops finished, its now time to measure a cut the center pipe sections to achieve your overall frame width.
You will need to come up with a way to mount the pipe to your wall. I use blocks that look like this.
I made my doors so you can open them by pulling a rope while standing on the ground. To do this, I added a pipe extending back into the storage area that gets pulled to swing the door up. I never considered this very clever but everyone that sees it is always impressed - go figure. This pipe is roughly at 90 degrees to the rest of the frame but I like to temporarily install one of the side hoops on the hinge pipe and glue the tee fitting for the pull pipe in place to give me the maximum door swing possible. Note the door in the background is fully opened so the pull pipe is up against the door frame.
To keep the pull rope from rubbing on the corner, I installed a roller and added a bent wire over it to keep the rope from jumping off. To hold the door open, I use a sailboat rope jam cleat. To finish it off, I use a pull cord handle from a chainsaw or string trimmer.
(Continued)
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MAKING A PVC BANNER DOOR, PART 2
With the two frame halves back on the floor, you can now glue in the other center pipes to result in two major pieces. Note that two joints are still pulled apart in this picture.
With the halves able to slide on the pipe, apply glue to the last two joints and slide them together. Make sure it is sitting flat on the floor before the glue sets up. At this point, I pull the galvanized pipe out and spread a little grease on it. The joint swings freely without it but I do this mainly to keep any corrosion from forming later on. The frame is now finished.
If you make the banner from scratch like I did, you will need to add some rope grommets to it. There are kits that make this easy. In this picture, a little black strap is shown that I use to loop through grommets http://www.reidsupply.com/Detail.aspx?itm=PPL-226
To connect straps and thus hold the banner on the frame, I use one half of a small bungee cord (you will have to determine the perfect length). One end is knotted through one strap and the other hook end attaches to the other strap. You are looking for just the right tension on your straps to keep the banner tight but not rip out the grommets.
Here is the finished product. If you look closely, you will see the pull handle to the right of the yellow cabinet.
Good Luck!
With the two frame halves back on the floor, you can now glue in the other center pipes to result in two major pieces. Note that two joints are still pulled apart in this picture.
With the halves able to slide on the pipe, apply glue to the last two joints and slide them together. Make sure it is sitting flat on the floor before the glue sets up. At this point, I pull the galvanized pipe out and spread a little grease on it. The joint swings freely without it but I do this mainly to keep any corrosion from forming later on. The frame is now finished.
If you make the banner from scratch like I did, you will need to add some rope grommets to it. There are kits that make this easy. In this picture, a little black strap is shown that I use to loop through grommets http://www.reidsupply.com/Detail.aspx?itm=PPL-226
To connect straps and thus hold the banner on the frame, I use one half of a small bungee cord (you will have to determine the perfect length). One end is knotted through one strap and the other hook end attaches to the other strap. You are looking for just the right tension on your straps to keep the banner tight but not rip out the grommets.
Here is the finished product. If you look closely, you will see the pull handle to the right of the yellow cabinet.
Good Luck!
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
Cool cover up..very nice.
Cool cover up..very nice.
Thanks Vernmotor
Grizz1963
Well-known member
Once again amazed at what you guys get up to in the states.
Sure some of it is sheer hard graft, and to be honest, I love that people get rewarded for their work.
However, the scale on which you guys do stuff is just so different from here in England.
Awesome build, and thread.
Sure some of it is sheer hard graft, and to be honest, I love that people get rewarded for their work.
However, the scale on which you guys do stuff is just so different from here in England.
Awesome build, and thread.
Thanks Grizz - glad you're enjoying it. I actually love to check out the builds that are going on outside the US. It's always interesting to see the different products being used and the unique methods in use.
denvermike66
Banned
Very, very nice place! So you are in your 40's, single and living in a barn. Welcome to the club!!!!! It's a great place to live in isn't it?
Single?
I guess you didn't read post #7 or the others.Thanks for your comments, nevertheless.
EVERY DESIGNER NEEDS A SKETCH PAD…
I made mine 3x4’ so I can jot down some BIG ideas!
If you recall, this wall is being constructed so that it can store 4x8 sheets of plywood in a “hidden” pocket. I first needed to finish off the back face because some of this is inaccessible with the outer skin on. Here’s a shot with all the tileboard in place.
**************
EDIT: A quick flash-forward to show which way the plywood inserts from:
**************
I then figured out where my whiteboard was going and added some channels to hold it. Theses boards don’t last forever so I decided to make it reasonably easy to replace some day, so my plan is to slide it out to the side after a few trim pieces are removed. The channel I used was simple double channel panel joining strips. They started out white and I had to paint them black with spray paint made for plastic after scuffing them up a bit.
I ran out of channel, so this is as far as I got. Tileboard and black trim will cover the remaining wood.
Just so I never forget which switch is connected where.
I made mine 3x4’ so I can jot down some BIG ideas!
If you recall, this wall is being constructed so that it can store 4x8 sheets of plywood in a “hidden” pocket. I first needed to finish off the back face because some of this is inaccessible with the outer skin on. Here’s a shot with all the tileboard in place.
**************
EDIT: A quick flash-forward to show which way the plywood inserts from:
**************
I then figured out where my whiteboard was going and added some channels to hold it. Theses boards don’t last forever so I decided to make it reasonably easy to replace some day, so my plan is to slide it out to the side after a few trim pieces are removed. The channel I used was simple double channel panel joining strips. They started out white and I had to paint them black with spray paint made for plastic after scuffing them up a bit.
I ran out of channel, so this is as far as I got. Tileboard and black trim will cover the remaining wood.
Just so I never forget which switch is connected where.
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