Got my new stainless tops (Stainless covers over MDF core) the other day. One top spans 5'-6" because it butts up to another top in the corner. I'm looking for a way to support the underside of the tops so I don't have any issues with it bowing under weight. Angle iron?
Best way to support underside of coutertop
- Thread starter bmwpower
- Start date
Still getting some flex when I lean on the front of the top. Does anyone know a better way to reinforce this? What you see is 1" square steel tubing, lagged in every 12". On the backwall (right side of top) is a 2"x2" angle that holds up the side. The tubing and the angle are not attached. I've yet to support the back of the top, but will do so with a 2"x2" angle piece. I don't think the would affect the front side flex.
BigEd
Well-known member
It looks like you're going to need some type of vertical or angled brace to the floor.
chaingang
Well-known member
Why not use a piece of 1x2x.180 wall and turn it up vertical. It won't take up much more space, could be lagged with longer screws and will be very stiff across the opening.
DIGGER_DAVE
Well-known member
chaingang said:
The "cross section" (depth) of the tube supporting the bench is what will add the strength.
As "chaingang" says 1 x 2 (2" on the vertical) would reduce the "flex."
If the bench is going to have BIG loads placed on it you might consider 1" x 3".
If you have trouble finding 1 x 3 x .125 wall; then maybe 2 x 3. Would allow for a "clear span." (no legs)
Blackie94Gt
Member
Consider bumping up the angle size to L3x3x1/4. You should be able to get a 20-0 length for around $40-$50 You dont need tube, plus it's more expensive per lb. than angle. If you have access to a welding machine and some flat bar, weld some flat bar to the ends of the angle and lag it into the wall. One it the front and one in the back should be fine. It needs to be supported on the ends. Or call a small fab shop and have them make them up probably about $100 labor and materials and they probably have the material laying in the scrap. Then just prime them and paint them a nice blue to match your nice cabinets.
We fabricate counter supports for vanities all the time and usually they are made of L3x3x1/4 or 3/8 sometimes TS 3x2x1/4 and the spans are much greater than 5'-6" Sometimes they have a post on each end which bolts to the floor and then they bury behind the drywall, sometimes they just put wood blocking between metal studs that we lag into.
We fabricate counter supports for vanities all the time and usually they are made of L3x3x1/4 or 3/8 sometimes TS 3x2x1/4 and the spans are much greater than 5'-6" Sometimes they have a post on each end which bolts to the floor and then they bury behind the drywall, sometimes they just put wood blocking between metal studs that we lag into.
DIGGER_DAVE
Well-known member
Blackie94Gt said:
Yeah; that would work too!