Nick Ricci
Member
I am at Williams field and the 202 over by San Tan Mall.
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
I am at Williams field and the 202 over by San Tan Mall.
Spring, Pinion, Hub, Feed Handle Assemblies
Based on the size of the classic style of Craftsman drill presses, there are various designs of the spring/pinion/hub/feed handle assemblies.
Craftsman and Dunlap 12-1/4" Drill Presses
- The pinion shaft is 1-1/4" in diameter and 5-3/4" long.
- The feed handle rod is 7/16" in diameter and 11" long. There are small snap rings on each end of the rod.
- The barrel of the spring is approximately 5/8" in diameter and 4" long. This spring is identical to the early 15-1/2" drill presses.
Frank,
What kind of steel would be acceptable for this kind of feed handle? I have a craftsman 103.23100. Would you stick with a cold finish carbon steel, or will a stainless type steel work for this? And, would a rod of 1/2" diameter absolutely not fit, or just fit snug?
Thanks ahead of time, this resource you have provided is amazing.
Lakan
Last edited:
Welcome Lakan, and thanks for your feedback!
I'm sorry, but I can't offer any advice on the best material. Maybe someone who knows more about it can chime in with an answer.
Your machine is a 12-1/2" model. The oem feed handle rod is 7/16" diameter by 11" long. A 1/2" rod will not fit unless the pinion shaft is re-bored to 1/2". It should not be a problem to do that if necessary.
You may be able to detect a slight bend in the rod in the photo you quoted. So, if you must replace the rod on your's, it actually may be desirable to use a thicker and even longer rod for that machine.
Last edited:
Yeah, I was a little too quick on the trigger finger and ordered a round bar of 1045 steel that is 1/2" x 12" and then I read your article and thought hmm maybe that was not a great idea. Maybe I can just use the drill press itself to bore a bigger hole in the pinion as you suggested, or just purchase another one that is 7/16". I might just do that so I can keep it standard.
Thanks Frank.
-- Lakan
dp#34 and dp#35
I took another very long trip today to get drill presses #34 and #35.
DP#34 (Jackson) is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23130. The seller told me yesterday that it ran great, and it does, and that it had no noticeable chuck wobble, oh yes it does! Drat!
I brought it home anyway because it seems to have very nice original paint and he lowered his price by 40% from his asking price. With parts from dp#33, a 150, I can put together one very nice hybrid machine. I already have a buyer waiting for a good machine.
DP#35 (Farmington Hills) is a 15" Atlas Craftsman. I was drawn to it because of the extras in his picture (below). It's not my favorite style to work on, but I could not turn it down due to his asking price. It runs great and will clean-up nicely though.
Here's when it got really good. While I was checking it out, he said he had some other tools in a box and I could have them with the DP.
I opened the box and my jaw dropped.
There are quite a few different old brands of tools, but many are Craftsman. I gave him 60% more than his asking price. It was still less than I paid for #34 above.
I took another very long trip today to get drill presses #34 and #35.
DP#34 (Jackson) is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23130. The seller told me yesterday that it ran great, and it does, and that it had no noticeable chuck wobble, oh yes it does! Drat!
I brought it home anyway because it seems to have very nice original paint and he lowered his price by 40% from his asking price. With parts from dp#33, a 150, I can put together one very nice hybrid machine. I already have a buyer waiting for a good machine.
DP#35 (Farmington Hills) is a 15" Atlas Craftsman. I was drawn to it because of the extras in his picture (below). It's not my favorite style to work on, but I could not turn it down due to his asking price. It runs great and will clean-up nicely though.
Here's when it got really good. While I was checking it out, he said he had some other tools in a box and I could have them with the DP.
I opened the box and my jaw dropped.
There are quite a few different old brands of tools, but many are Craftsman. I gave him 60% more than his asking price. It was still less than I paid for #34 above.
Last edited:
I saw that one yesterday on Craigslist and was going to call on it. Glad you got it, I was looking at it only for the motor. And you got it for a great price.
Jay
Last edited:
Frank,
Just a quick question, as I'm pretty new to these old Craftsmans. I'm looking to replace the steel spindle washers to properly preload the upper bearings on the quill for my Craftsman 12 1/4" 103.23100 press.
Any tips on what kind of washer to get? Is it just a regular flat washer, .048 thick, and 5/8" hole? Can't seem to find a spec anywhere on it. Also, any particular type of rubber washer, I'm seeing O-Rings as possible replacements but not sure if that is better or not.
Thanks ahead of time,
Lakan
Last edited:
The 12-1/4" drill presses have porous bronze sleeve bearings, so bearing pre-load is not applicable. I know there are some fiber washers in the quill assembly and not sure about steel washers. There is one thrust bearing and, IIRC, an adjustment collar below the tb with a set screw. I'm not sure of the exact dimensions of any of the 12-1/4" dp quill parts.
I use nitrile o-rings to replace the original rubber washers.
check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5658352&post5658352
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I took another very long trip today to get drill presses #34 and #35.
DP #34 (Jackson) is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23130. The seller told me yesterday that it ran great, and it does, and that it had no noticeable chuck wobble, oh yes it does! Drat!
I brought it home anyway because it seems to have very nice original paint and he lowered his price by 40% from his asking price. With parts from DP #33, a 150, I can put together one very nice hybrid machine. I already have a buyer waiting for a good machine.
DP #35 (Farmington Hills) is a 15" Atlas Craftsman. I was drawn to it because of the extras in his picture (below). It's not my favorite style to work on, but I could not turn it down due to his asking price. It runs great and will clean-up nicely though.
Here's when it got really good. While I was checking it out, he said he had some other tools in a box and I could have them with the DP.
I opened the box and my jaw dropped.
There are quite a few different old brands of tools, but many are Craftsman. I gave him 60% more than his asking price. It was still less than I paid for #34 above.
Frank, you killed it on the 2nd drill press! It looks like it came with 3 drill press vises as well as a ton of great tools! Nicely done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Rushton
Well-known member
Frank, regarding those retaining screws on both sides of the pulley assembly...
Your timely note to continue using the soft original screws rather than the hardened hex head bolts just saved my bacon. I'd been away from working on the 150 for a while and had forgotten where I'd left off. I decided I should pull out those pulleys and check the bearings because they sounded a bit dry once I had the quill removed.
I THOUGHT I'd removed both of those retaining screws. Turns out I'd left one of them in place so I wouldn't lose it while taking the other to the hardware store match for the hex head bolts.
I only found out I'd left it place AFTER driving out the pulley assembly. When I looked inside, there were a set of threads sticking up that I couldn't figure out. Yep, it was that retaining screw. Sheared nearly half off by driving the bearings up and out the top with the pulley assembly! But, nothing else damaged and the remaining half of the screw backed out easily.
Now off to get a soft metal replacement screw so I can continue the reassembly!
smalltown
Well-known member
Nice haul Frank !
Thanks! There were quite a few very nice pieces in that box!
- dozens of taps and dies, including some very small die sets
- several Starrett and Lufkin pieces including a nice machinist precision level
- lots of old Craftsman tools
- the 1/4 drive box set has some =v= and circle H
- a nice pair of Craftsman Vanadium lineman's pliers
- two drill press vises
- a drill press hold-down fence
- a couple V-series half-moon starter wrenches
- an aluminum pocket level
- a long-underlined offset screwdriver
I be donating quite a bit to the Habitat ReStore near me.
Last edited:
Frank, I don't see the feed lever thrust spring, steel and leather discs inside my pinion assembly. Must have been lost a while ago. Did that simply hold the feed lever in place via friction?
Lakan
Rushton
Well-known member
Any tips when re-mounting the column into the base for a floor standing model? I've cleaned and waxed the column, cleaned and waxed the insides of the three milled rings in the base and am ready to re-mount the column. But, I'm wondering if I should do anything else to make it easier on the next person who may disassemble this machine.
For example, would anti-seize on the threads of the bolt be a good idea? How about anti-seize on the surfaces of the milled rings?
For example, would anti-seize on the threads of the bolt be a good idea? How about anti-seize on the surfaces of the milled rings?
I don't use anti-seize or anything other than the wax on the column. It wouldn't hurt to use anti-seize on the bolt threads, but I've never had a problem loosening that bolt.
I insert and lock the column so it's flush with the bottom ring, not the three "feet" or not to the floor when standing.
Also, be aware that there is a top and bottom to the column on bench and floor 80's, 100's and 150's.
Rushton
Well-known member
Thanks, Frank! Following your advice, I'll only add a bit of anti-seize to the bolt threads on the "wouldn't hurt" theory and leave everything else just cleaned and waxed.
Great reminder to lock the column flush with the bottom ring, and to make sure to put it in right side up! I have the slo-speed attachment to mount so I'm sure I'd get a surprise if I put the column in upside down.
Re: Dp#29
Removing the column from the base using extreme measures
8/19/2017
I finally got this f*****g column out of it's base! It took extreme measures with three rounds of charcoal and dry ice, but it finally broke free.
The bottom of the column was mushroomed, so I had to go up the column. I mounted the base and column upside down into another base, stuffed a rag into the column and loaded-up the charcoal and let it heat up the base. I then dropped in the dry ice. I had to use a copious amount of PBlaster/Liquid Wrench and beat on the base quite a bit to get the base to start moving.
Removing the column from the base using extreme measures
5/3/2017
dp#29... model 103.23141
5/22/2017
This column & base is starting to confound me. I spent several hours, lots of PBlaster, a BFH, a homemade press, heat and it still won't budge.
8/19/2017
I finally got this f*****g column out of it's base! It took extreme measures with three rounds of charcoal and dry ice, but it finally broke free.
The bottom of the column was mushroomed, so I had to go up the column. I mounted the base and column upside down into another base, stuffed a rag into the column and loaded-up the charcoal and let it heat up the base. I then dropped in the dry ice. I had to use a copious amount of PBlaster/Liquid Wrench and beat on the base quite a bit to get the base to start moving.
Last edited:
Rushton
Well-known member
Rushton
Well-known member
Motor pulley wobble - I've checked the motor shaft with a dial indicator and it is straight. But when I mount the pulley, it wobbles pretty significantly in the UP-DOWN (vertical) plane along the outer edges. It shows as being quite reasonably concentric with a dial indicator riding in the bottom of the belt grooves, but it sure wobbles up and down in vertical at the edges. When I turn the motor on, the wobble is hard to see at speed, but I can feel it with a finger placed lightly along an edge. I'm concerned that the wobble will contribute to overall vibration and not be a good thing.
I've pulled the pulley off the motor shaft and cleaned the insides of the mounting hole and keyway. I've also cleaned the key to ensure it's nice and smooth.
Any suggestions on what to look for or what to check when mounting it to help take out some of this wobble?
I've pulled the pulley off the motor shaft and cleaned the insides of the mounting hole and keyway. I've also cleaned the key to ensure it's nice and smooth.
Any suggestions on what to look for or what to check when mounting it to help take out some of this wobble?
ttpete
Well-known member
Someone might have dropped the motor and tweaked the pulley.
Rushton
Well-known member
Yes, that's my concern. But the motor shaft doesn't seem to be affected, thankfully. I think I know how to mount a pulley on a key'ed motor shaft, but always open to hearing about something to consider I've not thought to do. The motor shaft simply has a flat along it without any taper. Same with the hole in the pulley, so I don't think I've got a situation where the pulley is canted.
Last edited:
The pulley may have gotten bumped, but I would expect a dented edge more than a whole pulley wobble. Loosen the set screw and just barely tighten it again. See if there's a change in wobble. Maybe the tightness of the set screw affects wobble. I've seen it before.
With a middle pulley, the motor pulley is installed with the small step up. That places the set screw closer to end end of the motor shaft the end. That could also be a factor. Try flipping the pulley and measure again.
I'll assume that you measured vertical wobble on the largest step. Even with your middle pulley, I would hazard a guess that you won't be using that largest step. The further down you place your belt on that pulley, ie, largest to smallest step, the less impact the wobble will have. I would just give it a go.
Last edited:
Rushton
Well-known member
Yes, just looking at the largest step. I'll give it a go and see how well everything works. Thanks!
mindofone
Member
Re: Dp#29
Wow. Just, wow.8/19/2017
I finally got this f*****g column out of it's base! It took extreme measures with three rounds of charcoal and dry ice, but it finally broke free.
The bottom of the column was mushroomed, so I had to go up the column. I mounted the base and column upside down into another base, stuffed a rag into the column and dropped in the dry ice. I then loaded-up the charcoal and let it heat up the base. I had to use a copious amount of PBlaster/Liquid Wrench and beat on the base quite a bit to get the base to start moving.
compunaut
Well-known member
Benchtop Craftsman Drill Press on CL in Chicago area. Includes Vari-Slo feature and foot pedal control (?).
Looks pretty sweet, but the price: $175 OBO
Looks pretty sweet, but the price: $175 OBO
Attachments
compunaut
Well-known member
A handsome full-size Craftsman Drill Press available via CL in Chicago area. Awfully expensive @ $150.
What the he-- is that bolted to the front?
What the he-- is that bolted to the front?
Attachments
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Benchtop Craftsman Drill Press on CL in Chicago area. Includes Vari-Slo feature and foot pedal control (?).
Looks pretty sweet, but the price: $175 OBO
That is not a terrible price for the varislow one but I wonder if they would take less due to the modifications ? Also I can tell the feed handle rods are not original... Might be worth a shot to see if they will take $125 ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
trijeff
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Not sure if you want the Vari Slo or not ... I just had a unit that way more than paid for the drill press, stand and a third pulley from JZiggy. Also, not certain about this but looks like the front control arm may not be OEM ... looks machined, think it should be cast aluminum. Probably broke when someone tried to adjust the speed while the unit wasn't running.
Not sure if you want the Vari Slo or not ... I just had a unit that way more than paid for the drill press, stand and a third pulley from JZiggy. Also, not certain about this but looks like the front control arm may not be OEM ... looks machined, think it should be cast aluminum. Probably broke when someone tried to adjust the speed while the unit wasn't running.
Attachments
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It has the Vari-Slo, it has the foot control - so it has replacement arms or at least knobs? If the control arm is a properly made machined part it's probably better than the original. Whats not to like? I don't think it's unreasonable for a user. if you want to flip it that answer is obvious...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It's a bit on the light side even for an 80. I'd look for 1/2 HP at least.
Also 1750 or 1725 won't make any sig difference. in fact if you can find a slower one 1000-1200?) it helps for drilling bigger holes in steel.
Also 1750 or 1725 won't make any sig difference. in fact if you can find a slower one 1000-1200?) it helps for drilling bigger holes in steel.
