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Poor Man's Retro Retreat -- in 440 square feet

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Jack Olsen

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Hey, Dan. Both of the metal cabinets were painted when I got them, so I just scuffed them up with an orbital sander and rolled on two coats of the latex exterior I use in the garage (why two coats? because it's cheap Sears Weatherbeater paint, and it looks lousy with a single coat).

My approach with both the wood and the metal in the garage is all done under the umbrella of: 'hey, it's a garage.' -- meaning I'll prime it only if it's bare wood or metal. If something chips or scratches it down the line, I'll just touch it up the next time I'm painting with the same color.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Thanks Jack. I completely get you on this. I've come full circle on my garage. Originally I planned on taking down the existing shelving, getting rid of my old metal cabinets, buying all new, etc. Then I saw yours and others nice efforts using what they already had mostly and decided to give my stuff a face lift. I made a face frame for the exsting shelving unit and made plywood doors. I'm gonna repaint my existing sorta 70's harvest gold legal lateral file and paint the tall cabinet to match as you did. Hell, if I just puteverything AWAY in my garage it would look 100% better. Thanks also for the inspiration to stay with a vintage color scheme. Didn't want to copy your green so I'm going with gray a third of the way up the walls. White above and the yellow/gold old time cabinets. I hope it comes out 1/2 as good looking as yours!
 

james66g

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Man I have to say this is one of my all time favorites sure its awesome to see the huge awesome garages and who doesnt like the bunker garage!? Dude your garage is just amazing! Everything from colors to crazy awesome foldy benches your metal work bench I am eyeballing for my very own! Even your Sheds are the coolest! Thanks for the inspiration.
 

galwaytt

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another +1 on yours, Jack - I can't put my finger on it, but it's the combo of the colours and the curved sheds that mark it out of the ordinary......very much the Less is More theory.........

Anyhoo, also another +1 on the tiles: see mine, HERE

This is the parking one, about 300 sq ft, and total cost for high-grade porcelain for me was only Eur 300.

So far, it's survived steel-wheeled trolley jacks, dropping a 4lb hammer etc, and no chips yet. Currently thinking how to do the Big Shop (8m x 12m) if the quality of the subfloor can be addressed...........crappy contractor.......... :(
 
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All right. I spent a good part of Friday cleaning the place up -- the wrought iron fence, a redone interior closet and some book cases I made for some friends had the place looking pretty ugly:

Messy-3.jpg


Now that's not the case. I've got the new steel workbench and the butcher block island in the middle. I took a new set of pictures of what I think I can now call 'The Poor Man's Retro Retreat, Version 1.1'.

Here are a bunch of pictures I just took:

2010-018.jpg


The new butcher block island:

2010-007.jpg


You can see the fold-down benches along the wall behind the car. One is for welding, one is for wood.

2010-008.jpg


The sink:

2010-010.jpg


The 'compliance station:'

2010-021.jpg


I'm still working out places to store things like clamps. Not sure where the portable air tank is going to go.

2010-015.jpg


Steel table stored up above:

2010-019.jpg


A cool angle:

2010-006.jpg


The owner and janitor, right after he finished cleaning the place up. Looking serious because it seems dopey to point a camera at yourself and smile.

2010-022.jpg
 
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classicharleyj

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I am constantly amazed at the ingenuity displayed by you. Love the
storage ideas and the car, of course. Great job!
 
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Jack Olsen

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Space is tight in the city. You've got to use every inch of it.

The car gets used a lot, too. Once a month it goes to the track:

Nov+18+2009+OTR+CP2_11271260339982.jpg
 

Cobra4B

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Space is tight in the city. You've got to use every inch of it.

The car gets used a lot, too. Once a month it goes to the track:

Nov+18+2009+OTR+CP2_11271260339982.jpg
You run timetrials in it, or just general HPDE fun? What kind of power/weight are you working with? With a newer 3.6 S motor you're making around 315 crank right? Car weigh sub 3000?

Oh and if you're living in LA w/ a nice Porsche I'm sure you're not poor ;)
 
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Steve from Socal

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Jack,

The thing I see that I don't like is that table top above your car. I had a Honda that had several things fall on it in the 1994 Northridge quake. The stuff I have in the rafters now is lashed to a beam with no movement. Have you been here is a "real" earthquake?

Steve
 
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Jack Olsen

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You run timetrials in it, or just general HPDE fun? What kind of power/weight are you working with? With a newer 3.6 S motor you're making around 315 crank right? Car weigh sub 3000?

Oh and if you're living in LA w/ a nice Porsche I'm sure you're not poor ;)
Well, 'poor' is relative. It's a 38-year-old Porsche and I paid $3,500 for it, originally. (But full disclosure: I've sunk in a fair bit more into it, since then. It's helping me to stay poor. ;) )

I've time trialed it with NASA and other groups, raced it with ARC -- I DE it regularly and instruct for a few different groups. It weighs 2700 pounds with me in it, and the motor only puts about 215 hp to the wheels (it's an air cooled 3.6 from a 1993 911; it's never been modified or even opened up, and I lost count of its accumulate track hours at around 600).

Since ZRX61 recognizes the braking zone for turn one at Willow Springs, I'll brag a little: it runs low 1:29's there, on the same Toyo tires I use to drive it out to the track. It's a dual-duty street and track car.

The thing I see that I don't like is that table top above your car. I had a Honda that had several things fall on it in the 1994 Northridge quake. The stuff I have in the rafters now is lashed to a beam with no movement. Have you been here is a "real" earthquake?
I've been out here since 1985, and I won't argue too much with you about the long-term viability of that table up there. It's not one of my best ideas.

However it is all redundantly secured. The aircraft cable holds it at four corners -- then the three chain mounts hold it when it's in the secured position. For it to fall, there would need to be multiple simultaneous failures. But a lot can happen in an earthquake, and if I keep it there much longer, I plan to run some steel supports tying into multiple joists to distribute the weight even further. Maybe add a third level of support.
 
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Cobra4B

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There's a naval officer that I often see on my commute to work with a beautiful black 993 with the license plate LASTAIR... I assume it's a '97 by the plate. Car looks much better than the 996 or 997 IMO.
 

pseudorealityx

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http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv360/Jack_Olsen/2010-006.jpg[/img

[QUOTE="Jack Olsen, post: 680616, member: 33383"]
Since ZRX61 recognizes the braking zone for turn one at Willow Springs, I'll brag a little: it runs low 1:29's there, on the same Toyo tires I use to drive it out to the track. It's a dual-duty street and track car.[/QUOTE]

What's it run with THOSE tires. Because those certainly don't look like Toyos.

:thumbup:

-measly autocrosser
 

ruby76

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RE table on ceiling: I've been out here since 1985, and I won't argue too much with you about the long-term viability of that table up there. It's not one of my best ideas.

However it is all redundantly secured. The aircraft cable holds it at four corners -- then the three chain mounts hold it when it's in the secured position. For it to fall, there would need to be multiple simultaneous failures. But a lot can happen in an earthquake, and if I keep it there much longer, I plan to run some steel supports tying into multiple joists to distribute the weight even further. Maybe add a third level of support.


He he - just sent a PM on the specifics of the ceiling-stored table. I like the up and out of the way aspects of it.
 
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Fidget

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Why did you decide to use butcher block? Is that table designed for something specific? If I did that, it would be stained with engine fluids in no time at all.
 
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Jack Olsen

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There's a naval officer that I often see on my commute to work with a beautiful black 993 with the license plate LASTAIR... I assume it's a '97 by the plate. Car looks much better than the 996 or 997 IMO.
I agree.

2010-006.jpg


What's it run with THOSE tires. Because those certainly don't look like Toyos.
Those are Nitto NT-01s, which are the same rubber compound as the Toyo RA1 I used to run. Those look like slicks in that picture because I've been running them so long. Oddly, my best lap times have been with narrower tires than those.

Love that RSR.
Thanks.

Why did you decide to use butcher block? Is that table designed for something specific? If I did that, it would be stained with engine fluids in no time at all.
I'll probably cover it with a coat of varnish to protect it. But I do a lot of different things in the garage -- for something with oil or grease, I'd use the main bench or the steel one.

It will definitely get marked up, though -- this is the garage, not the living room.
 

RobSmith

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G'Day Jack,
Obviously you are a thinker and enjoy organizing stuff to create efficiency . I hope to emulate this trait but I have one vital essence missing. I'm not married. You must have a good woman to allow you to play in the shed (garage) and also race your car. Don't forget to thank her.
 

pseudorealityx

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Those are Nitto NT-01s, which are the same rubber compound as the Toyo RA1 I used to run. Those look like slicks in that picture because I've been running them so long. Oddly, my best lap times have been with narrower tires than those.

Interesting. Probably due to rolling resistance. Looking at the left one, it looked like V710s. Weren't thinking the Nittos. We run more tire (245 F, 285R) on our 2050 lb car than you are, but we also have ~50 more hp.
 

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You must have a good woman to allow you to play in the shed (garage) and also race your car. Don't forget to thank her.
I read her your post. I'm lucky to have her.

Interesting. Probably due to rolling resistance. Looking at the left one, it looked like V710s. Weren't thinking the Nittos. We run more tire (245 F, 285R) on our 2050 lb car than you are, but we also have ~50 more hp.
Yeah, the Nittos have a tread pattern that ends up looking like a faster tire. My best laps have been on 255F/275R Toyos. In the photo, I've got 275s in front and 315s in back. Willow Springs is a very fast momentum track -- average speed over a lap is right around 100 mph, and my top speed is only about 130. With more power, I think I could benefit from the wider tires. But that will have to wait for a day when I can afford it.
 

JeffreyJames

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Your garage has to be the one of the most inspiring I have seen on this thread. Between your own and Nimrods I think it's safe to say I am jealous. I think this spring I am going to get all the stuff out of my garage and make it proper like you own. I like to keep a clena garage but it becoming harder and harder with these old cars filling up all the space.

Love the Shed storage on the side of your home too!!!!
 

N8

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Jack I love your spacial planning. Your set up is great.

JeffreyJames: your verywhere! LOL
Get to work buddy and get those cars some livable space!
 

Cebby

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Jack - love the garage. I'm working with about 400 square feet (actually a bit less since there is a staircase that the previous owner moved from outside into the interior. I've gotten a lot of space saving ideas from your space and will be implementing some of them - thank you!
 

Jack90210

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Jack -- this thread is one of the reasons I registered here. I like to see folks making the best of smaller spaces; anyone can build a 60x150 gazillion-bay (no offense to anyone) but there's an elegance, not to mention an aesthetic beauty, to working intelligently with less room. A track toy will hopefully find its way into the garage at some point here, and I'm sure I'll be using this thread as a reference guide.

EDIT: In particular I like the drop-down tables, the thought that's gone into the "flow" of each work area, and the idea of using the space between the "bays" for storage bins and carts. Great find on that massive steel top!
 
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Freejack

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Jack,

Sorry if you've answered this prior, but what did you use for a bullnose on the tiles. It was your pictures combine with a fairly low cost source of porceilen tile that's convinced me to do this to my garage.

Jake
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks, guys.

Between your own and Nimrods I think it's safe to say I am jealous. !
I'm jealous of Nimrod's garage, too. Mine is kind of a footnote compared to his setup -- much humbler in every imaginable way.

Sorry if you've answered this prior, but what did you use for a bullnose on the tiles. It was your pictures combine with a fairly low cost source of porceilen tile that's convinced me to do this to my garage.
Porcelain is stronger than ceramic, and the big box stores sometimes have it for less than a buck a square foot. I think I could have gotten bullnosed tiles from the place I got mine, but I'm not sure. At the time, I didn't know enough to even think about the edge along the garage door and the regular door. My quick-and-amateur response was to just tape the edge (to keep it clean) and then use some vinyl patching concrete to make a tapered edge. I figured it would distribute the load better when car tires impacted the tiles and also move water back away (instead of getting under) the tiles.

What I didn't know was that you can't just slap on a layer of thin concrete (tapering from about 1/3" down to nothing) and expect it to adhere to the stuff underneath it -- especially without any kind of scoring or a bonding agent.

Surprisingly, the apron segment has lasted almost two years now. A few cracks have formed, and you can here the sound of a void when you step on some parts of it -- but none of it has come up, in spite of lots of foot and vehicle traffic.

When it does start to come up (and I know it will), I'm going to either install a line of edge tile or cut into the concrete and lay down a thicker piece to transition from the tiles to the driveway.
 

justinmc

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I'm still working out places to store things like clamps. Not sure where the portable air tank is going to go.

Could you make an overhead "rack" of sorts to put all your clamps on? Maybe a pole or piece of angle in a corner and then just hang the clamps as they'll fit (obviously doesn't fit with your style as things all seem to have a home thats "just right"). The air bubble will be challenging for sure. I'm curious to see how you store it.

I agree with the sentiments of the others in this thread, while an awesome 40+'x60+' building with giant fab tables, a downdraft booth, curtained welding/fab station, alignment rack, 4 & 2 post lifts and a 50' long Snap On box are ultimately all of our dreams, alot of us are forced to make due with less space for whatever reason. Its awesome to see a well thought out.. well put together small space that proves you can do work and accomplish things in a small space. Granted the above dream would be nice.. but until then your well thought out use of space is quite the inspriation. Good stuff.

:thumbup:
 

Dan in Pasadena

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The new butcher block island:

2010-007.jpg


You can see the fold-down benches along the wall behind the car. One is for welding, one is for wood.

2010-008.jpg


The 'compliance station:'

2010-021.jpg

Good rainy SoCal Saturday morning Jack. Whoever wrote, "It Never Rains In Southern California" didn't know what the hell he was talking about, huh? Friggin writers!:bounce:

Anyway, I was reviewing your new pictures and came up with a few (nosy) questions:

1. Can you show a close up of your tool box labels? I just got an intermediate 3 drawer box like yours for my birthday and I'm considering how to re-organize my hand tools. I'd love to see your labels and maybe some shots with the drawers open? (Why no casters on your "roll around"?)

2. What's going on with the anvil near the front door? Is that just storage or is it supported well enough that you can actually bang on it? What's the function of that cabinet its mounted to? Is this the same anvil as the HUGE one on your heavy metal table?

3. Can you post some close ups of what looks like a contractor's table saw and the way you have your sanders or angle grinders mounted to it? Also, what's the metal table above it made from? Very good idea to height match it to your butcher block. Can you show it a bit closer?

4. Last (for the moment, I already confessed to being nosy, remember?) What do you store inside the base to the butcher block table and what's its intended use? I assume you painted it to match your tile so it would blend in rather than stand out like green would have made it?

Best, Dan

P.S. Kidding about the raining. How are you guys in the Midwest/East doing? Looks like CRAZY snow on the news. Maybe someone can post a Winter Garage Use thread showing us warm weather fortunates how you deal with it (or do you even try?).
 
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Jack Olsen

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Could you make an overhead "rack" of sorts to put all your clamps on? Maybe a pole or piece of angle in a corner and then just hang the clamps as they'll fit (obviously doesn't fit with your style as things all seem to have a home thats "just right"). The air bubble will be challenging for sure. I'm curious to see how you store it.
I've got plans for the clamps. The air tank is still bugging me.

1. Can you show a close up of your tool box labels? I just got an intermediate 3 drawer box like yours for my birthday and I'm considering how to re-organize my hand tools. I'd love to see your labels and maybe some shots with the drawers open? (Why no casters on your "roll around"?)
I had a set of those commercially-available magnets with pictures on them, but I got frustrated and just typed in the words and printed them out on some adhesive-backed paper. It's pretty simple, but it makes stuff much easier to find. And it was free.

Labels1260690755.jpg


I don't really have a good organization scheme for it. I got a second pair of cabinets second-hand recently, and they're going to hold welding-specific stuff out in one section of my shed. Right now, it's kind of a chaotic mix of different types of tools.

2. What's going on with the anvil near the front door? Is that just storage or is it supported well enough that you can actually bang on it? What's the function of that cabinet its mounted to? Is this the same anvil as the HUGE one on your heavy metal table?
Two different anvils. I reinforced the mount with steel pieces inside the wall, so I could hammer on it pretty hard. But mostly that's an alternative spot to put the grinder or the small vise. I'm not really sure where either of the anvils (one's 55 pounds, the other is 200 pounds) will ultimately end up.

3. Can you post some close ups of what looks like a contractor's table saw and the way you have your sanders or angle grinders mounted to it? Also, what's the metal table above it made from? Very good idea to height match it to your butcher block. Can you show it a bit closer?
The table was one I welded together when I first got my welder. I make all my work surfaces 37" high.

Table011240775106.jpg


It happened to also be the same width as the new island, and I was able to cut out the diagonal supports so my table saw could fit underneath it.

Saw1260690741.jpg


I welded on a strip of 1"x1/8" stock to hold my throw-away Chinese grinders.

Grinders1260690781.jpg


4. Last (for the moment, I already confessed to being nosy, remember?) What do you store inside the base to the butcher block table and what's its intended use? I assume you painted it to match your tile so it would blend in rather than stand out like green would have made it?
I expect over time I'll work out what makes the most sense to store in that cabinet. Right now, I've got some stuff in bins in there. Here's a picture of it closed (new handles added) and opened up.

Island+Closed1260690767.jpg


Island+Open1260690727.jpg


On the very bottom you can see some pieces made of 2x4s -- they fit under the table saw and raise it up to the same height as all of my benches.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Thanks for the answers Jack.

I was planning on using my P-Touch label maker to label my drawers, but the magnets are a much better idea than stick on labels - greater flexibility.

I have one of those orange HF grinders too. So far, mine has worked fine but as cheap as they are - I think less than $20 - it never occurred to me to buy several to keep various abrasives on them like you did - very smart. I agree, if they ever give me a problem I'll just toss 'em.

My table saw is a real dilemma for me. It isn't a contractor's saw, its a pretty nice Delta with a Unisaw rip fence on it that I got a great deal on so I hate to get rid of it. But I have thought about swapping it for a good contractor's saw just so I could store it more easily as you can with yours.

I also need a MIG welder for my new project - a 1946 Chevy truck - but they're none to cheap for my fellow-poor-man budget and its been so long since I welded that MIG wasn't even taught then! I guess I'll have to take a class at a local J.C. Did you do that or just starting messing around with it? That's the other approach I thought of.

I really like the standardized work bench heights and the way you keep related items together - I am learning from that.

Thanks again Jack. Merry Christmas to you and yours, Dan
 

danehoy

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Howdy Mr. Olson.

I would start by saying that I love the feel of your garage. One of my favorite additions were the baskets you used for storage that softened up the "ma cave" feel. I love the wood beam in the middle with lighting as well. My only criticism comes from the area with that wood beam. Opposite you car is a cheap (or cheap looking) rack. I feel that breaks up the garage too much as it helps form a "wall" that makes your garage seem too much like 2 garages.

I think removing that would make the two areas come together by allowing you to move your toolchest in to the space. This will let your car, the definite focal point of the garage, be more a part of both sides.

As I look more in to your pictures, I love the use of space with the fold down table. I feel that for other people (say if you sell the house), this may be a little too taste specific. I have thought of something similar to that though for my place (as I also don't care as much about other's tastes). I wanted to conceil my tools with sliding slatboard. That would provide double the storage for the space, and for my garage the horizontal lines would add a good feel.

Good job on the lights, and I look forward to reading more of your posts (old and new)
 
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Jack Olsen

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What size is that Hobart welder you've got?
It's a 140. I recently got a Millermatic 211, though.

I also need a MIG welder for my new project - a 1946 Chevy truck - but they're none to cheap for my fellow-poor-man budget and its been so long since I welded that MIG wasn't even taught then! I guess I'll have to take a class at a local J.C. Did you do that or just starting messing around with it? That's the other approach I thought of.
I learned from a pair of videos. In case you're interested, I'll send you a PM about a Hobart 140 that's going to be up for sale soon.

Opposite you car is a cheap (or cheap looking) rack. I feel that breaks up the garage too much as it helps form a "wall" that makes your garage seem too much like 2 garages.

I think removing that would make the two areas come together by allowing you to move your tool chest in to the space. This will let your car, the definite focal point of the garage, be more a part of both sides.

I feel that for other people (say if you sell the house), this may be a little too taste specific. I have thought of something similar to that though for my place (as I also don't care as much about other's tastes). I wanted to conceil my tools with sliding slatboard. That would provide double the storage for the space, and for my garage the horizontal lines would add a good feel.
By 'rack' I first assumed you meant the tool chests. But do you mean the shelves that face the nose of the car, against the back wall? Or do you mean the metal table on the far side of the butcher block table?

I'm curious, because I don't like the way the tool chests look, especially since I added a middle cabinet and made it even taller. I also don't much like most of the back wall. It was part of the original re-do of the garage, when budget was the chief concern. The big cabinets dated back to when the garage was built, and I added the shelves (made of hollow-core doors) underneath because I had the doors sitting around.

I've got a 'phase two' in mind for the garage that will eliminate most of that stuff. The back wall will still have the main work bench, but it will be moved more to the center of the wall, with overhead cabinets on the same line of the ones currently over the metal bench and the main work bench -- but extending all along the back wall and wrapping around to a (slightly-shortened version) of the cabinets that are now up above the driver's side door of the car. I'll be able to continue that polished aluminum stripe all along the back wall with a curved wrap to the left. Down below it, I'll have my main bench, my tool cabinets, and two 6' tall and 4' wide metal cabinets.

Phase+21260743610.jpg


But there's no telling when I'll actually getting around to doing all that. I move slowly. I've got to source the cabinets second-hand, for starters.

I also want to change that desk-height work surface at the opening of the garage to a slightly-less-deep butcher block workbench that can be raised from desk height (30") to work bench height (37", for me), with pneumatic cylinders. Of course, there's no telling when I'll get around to that, either.

The great thing about this board is that it keeps you constantly thinking of new ideas for your garage.

The terrible thing about this board is that it keeps you constantly thinking of new ideas for your garage.
 
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