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3" round electrical box to receptacles

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PoorOwner

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So I was thinking I could install some shop lights today, not really. I got the 4" round receptacle cover, that is supposed to replace typical porcelain bulb holder.

When I took off the porcelain bulb holder I noticed there are 2 sets of key holes and it is using screws on the inside.

I took off the bulb holder and it's not a 4" round box. It's something like 3" round box??

this seems like a light fixture box but I had thought most of them are 4" round, it doesn't seem like it would fit any receptacles, not duplex anyway.

So.. now what is my best option to covert this to a receptacle or two? I don't recall seeing smaller round covers than 4" standard.
 
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PoorOwner

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ok so it is called 3 1/2"
I am not sure if those cover in your link are to code anymore, single screw recept attachment is not to code unless it is listed for it.

the 4" leviton ones have the receptacle build in / pre attached, so it is to code.

The other problem is that the box doesn't have alot of space to fit receptacle, it had wire nut for going to feed other stuff.

I was thinking if I can get the proper cover that fits the box, I can do a EMT elbow to a proper box with GFCI as it is required in garage.. Incase my shop light falls into water (not really)
this one
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-1-2-in-Flat-Round-Cover-with-1-2-in-Knockout-703/100579309
 
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dscheidt

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If you need a single outlet, just get a bulb holder with one built in.
 
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PoorOwner

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I have looked at those bulb holder with the receptacle, but the inner 2 holes are blocked off so it won't bolt onto my box as it is. It has like a 2.5" spacing meant for the 2 inner key slots on those holders.

this is the quick and dirty solution that I found
black-ge-plugs-connectors-54276-c3_600.jpg


I am not sure if the bulb holder rating, but the adapter does 660W
I plan to use about 4 LED shop lights, they are like 30W each?
 
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Norcal

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PoorOwner said:
I have looked at those bulb holder with the receptacle, but the inner 2 holes are blocked off so it won't bolt onto my box as it is. It has like a 2.5" spacing meant for the 2 inner key slots on those holders.

this is the quick and dirty solution that I found
black-ge-plugs-connectors-54276-c3_600.jpg


I am not sure if the bulb holder rating, but the adapter does 660W
I plan to use about 4 LED shop lights, they are like 30W each?
Click to expand...

How are you going to ground the fixtures?
 
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ishiboo

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I wouldn't recommend using those for anything other than a few LED lights. For that, they're fine.

The holes are blocked off on those lamp holders so you don't have people shoving stuff into a live box if you use the larger spacing. You can knock them out with a screwdriver. They are rated for the smaller boxes.
 
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mm08822

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PoorOwner said:
ok so it is called 3 1/2"
I am not sure if those cover in your link are to code anymore, single screw recept attachment is not to code unless it is listed for it.

the 4" leviton ones have the receptacle build in / pre attached, so it is to code.

The other problem is that the box doesn't have alot of space to fit receptacle, it had wire nut for going to feed other stuff.

I was thinking if I can get the proper cover that fits the box, I can do a EMT elbow to a proper box with GFCI as it is required in garage.. Incase my shop light falls into water (not really)
this one
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-1-2-in-Flat-Round-Cover-with-1-2-in-Knockout-703/100579309
Click to expand...

Having a GFCI receptacle in the ceiling is not readily accessible.
Use a raco 111 – 3.5” ext box and blank cover. Hardwire the lights using conduit with the now accessible ko’s provided by the ext box.
 
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PoorOwner

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ishiboo said:
I wouldn't recommend using those for anything other than a few LED lights. For that, they're fine.

The holes are blocked off on those lamp holders so you don't have people shoving stuff into a live box if you use the larger spacing. You can knock them out with a screwdriver. They are rated for the smaller boxes.
Click to expand...

OK, thanks for clearing that up for me.
it should work then.
Except how these things try to get ground from that mount screw, my plastic box is not grounded there so hopefully they have another way to get ground.

ge-lamp-accessories-18305-64_1000.jpg
 
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PoorOwner

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mm08822 said:
Having a GFCI receptacle in the ceiling is not readily accessible.
Use a raco 111 – 3.5” ext box and blank cover. Hardwire the lights using conduit with the now accessible ko’s provided by the ext box.
Click to expand...

Your comment about GFCI, I thought now code is to have GFCI even for ceiling / garage opener outlets.

Does GFCI work well as a switched outlet?

My lights are from costco and they are plug only, they don't need ground. They are linkable so I only need one outlet, but with the Raco111 I can expand to get more receptacles out of the original box.
 
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mm08822

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It is now code to have GFCI protected receptacles in the garage without exception.
Having gfci protected receptacles in the ceiling is not the same as a gfci receptacle in the ceiling. A GFCI device (breaker or recept) needs to be readily accessible from the floor.

Hardwire the lights and there is no need for ceiling recepts. If you insist upon recepts in the ceiling add gfci protection before the switch.

Your lights are on a 2-wire cord? All plastic housing?
 
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dscheidt

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PoorOwner said:
OK, thanks for clearing that up for me.
it should work then.
Except how these things try to get ground from that mount screw, my plastic box is not grounded there so hopefully they have another way to get ground.

ge-lamp-accessories-18305-64_1000.jpg
Click to expand...

They have a ground terminal on the other side. I use an automatic center punch for breaking the holes out, much easier than a screwdriver.
 
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tonyprovo723

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150
PoorOwner said:
OK, thanks for clearing that up for me.
it should work then.
Except how these things try to get ground from that mount screw, my plastic box is not grounded there so hopefully they have another way to get ground.

ge-lamp-accessories-18305-64_1000.jpg
Click to expand...
These porcelain lamp holders with the narrower screw holes have a trick to break them out. The lamp holder needs to be set as it is in the picture on a flat solid surface. Then take a screwdriver and punch it out directly toward the flat surface.

I sold electric supplies for 10 years and took back a bunch of broken lampholders over the years and never thought much of it. Then one contractor mentioned punching them out and knowing the trick. I never used one so I had no idea what he was talking about. So he showed me. Otherwise if you attempt to punch them out while holding them free-hand, might as well plan to through it away.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
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PoorOwner

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well, the leviton porcelain holder with socket did the trick, it installed in minutes because I just transferred the existing wire to the new one. And the mounting screw happened to be on a ground clip, after checking for continuity to ground it was good to go.

The reviews is pretty bad, but I don't see any issues with mine.
 
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