Hi all, I've been reading threads here for awhile and learned a lot. This is my first post. I've been looking for a DP for woodworking and light metalwork. I'm not looking for a project, but a working, general purpose (made in USA) tool that will not need replacing or upgrading anytime soon. A friend offered me his early '70s Craftsman for $175. It's the 15 1/2" model with 8 speeds. It's well used, but fully functional and complete. Then at a local vintage store (of all places) I came across a late '70s press, same model, almost identical, except it's in mint condition, no signs of ever being used. The asking price is $250, but I may be able to get it for a bit less. I'm all for saving a little money, but there's something really compelling about a brand new 40 year old machine... So, which one do I go for???
Craftsman Drill Press: Early '70s vs Late '70s
- Thread starter E.E.
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lafester
Well-known member
We need pics of both to offer an opinion.
$250 for a mint one is a lot better deal generally then $175 for a beat one if everything else is the same. Lots of other factors though and guessing is no fun.
$250 for a mint one is a lot better deal generally then $175 for a beat one if everything else is the same. Lots of other factors though and guessing is no fun.
Provincial
Well-known member
Does either one have the crank-type table elevation unit? Early 70's Craftsman drill presses often don't have any table elevaton system, and on the larger DP's the table is heavy enough to be resistant to moving the table with any precision.
![script>](http://<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56322137@N06/39551142414/in/dateposted-public/" title="BethlehemDP"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/39551142414_187afcca88_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="BethlehemDP"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>)
![script>](http://<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/56322137@N06/25391346837/in/dateposted-public/" title="JPW's DP"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4748/25391346837_5aaa2ac53d_z.jpg" width="460" height="640" alt="JPW's DP"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>)
FrankLee
Well-known member
I would choose the bottom unit.
[IMO]
If the motor has ball bearings, it is a nicer motor with double shaft.
The taper handle lock levers are nicer, versus the plastic covered.
It has a nicer table design.
[/IMO]
Even a minty drill press can have a bent spindle. So, it's important to check both units for run-out.
[IMO]
If the motor has ball bearings, it is a nicer motor with double shaft.
The taper handle lock levers are nicer, versus the plastic covered.
It has a nicer table design.
[/IMO]
Even a minty drill press can have a bent spindle. So, it's important to check both units for run-out.
matt_i
Well-known member
I'd open the top and look down at the spline drive on the front sheave.
By rolling the chuck by hand and holding the belt you can see if there's lost motion or the spline drive is beaten up at all. Hopefully not the case but the lost motion can lead to "noises" while running.
By rolling the chuck by hand and holding the belt you can see if there's lost motion or the spline drive is beaten up at all. Hopefully not the case but the lost motion can lead to "noises" while running.
FJ 432
Well-known member
PLEASE listen to Frank Lee. He is our resident expert on vintage craftsman Drill Presses.
I have that model and never especially liked it. I hardly used mine and bought a really heavy duty Rockwell to replace it. But for woodwork, it should be fine.
Look at the motors on both. The drill didn't come with a motor. You bought it separately. So motor can be any HP and construction. Check that out. I went for the best. 3/4 HP, TEFC, cap start and cap run. One motor in your photos looks like it might be cap start.
Very important: These presses used a very unconventional thin belt. Make sure the belt is good on the press you buy and research if belts are still available. I was concerned about the belt after I bought my press and bought some spare belts to have around which I would not part with.
Look at the motors on both. The drill didn't come with a motor. You bought it separately. So motor can be any HP and construction. Check that out. I went for the best. 3/4 HP, TEFC, cap start and cap run. One motor in your photos looks like it might be cap start.
Very important: These presses used a very unconventional thin belt. Make sure the belt is good on the press you buy and research if belts are still available. I was concerned about the belt after I bought my press and bought some spare belts to have around which I would not part with.
I have that exact machine over at the coast. It's very capable, easy to adjust speeds, has a very wide speed range and is generally a well built machine.
It uses a tiny/unique belt but they're still available so I wouldn't worry about that.
What I hate is lack of table lift, table tilt, table rotate. Lifting the table is a PIA. You have to wiggle it repeatedly to get it to move up. Mine's even worse because I have the optional vertical table add on.
I'd definitely spend the extra on the one in mint condition but I'd personally pass on any DP without table lift.
FrankLee
Well-known member
I appreciate that, but do not consider myself an expert.
On motors of this vintage, sometimes the label will indicate the bearing type... sleeve or ball.
If there are rubber oil plugs on each end near the shaft, it has sleeve bearings. Capacitors on motors of this vintage are attached to the outside of the motor with a cover.
Split phase motors do not have a capacitor. Instead, there are separate start windings and run windings in the stator. The motor in the link is not a Craftsman, but the concept is the same.
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I agree that a DP without a table lift is a non-starter for me, and I passed on a nice Clausing for $100 last week for that very reason. But I couldn't pass up a $40 Wilton USA even with no table lift, and made my own motorized lift. If the price for the CM was less than $100 it might be ok with no lift since that table doesn't weigh too much (unlike a heavy production table).
Attachments
I checked out the newer machine today. It turns out it was made in 1985. It literally looks as though it has never been used--still has plastic film over name plate and pulley chart and some sort of anti rust coating on base and table. It runs quietly and very true. But... compared to the older machine (from the photo, anyway), there are more crudely stamped vs machined parts (like the lock levers, motor mount, etc and the table and base are really rough castings. The motor is cap start, but I think with sleeve bearings. I guess I'm going to let go of the idea of owning a mint DP, save a few dollars and get the older unit.
lafester
Well-known member
You know for $175 you should be able to get a similar condition Craftsman 150.
Look through FrankLee's thread and see which one you like better.
Of course finding one isn't always easy. They only pop up when you are not looking.
Look through FrankLee's thread and see which one you like better.
Of course finding one isn't always easy. They only pop up when you are not looking.
I was thinking abut that, but I feel like I could wait months for one. What will probably happen is one will turn up as soon as I commit the drill above. On the other hand... The '70s drills have a slower speed (I think- 380 rpm) without mods and a built in light.
Provincial
Well-known member
Gates still makes the small v-belts. They call them Polyflex and the part numbers are 5M-11XX. Determine your belt length and look up number in the Gates catalog. Mine cost about $12.00 plus about the same for shipping.
My original belt lasted over 30 years and never slipped until it was falling apart.
My original belt lasted over 30 years and never slipped until it was falling apart.
lafester
Well-known member
For a bench top I would just use a small jack.
FrankLee
Well-known member
Is this a machine you own, or are you considering buying it?
Regardless, it's a late 150... missing the quill lock and the head frame panel, but includes a Multi-Speed Attachment.
The column looks rather dirty which is likely why the table is difficult to move.