A Vari-Slo would not fit on a 12-1/4" or 13-1/2" machine.
Does look to be all there and in NICE shape,
Does look to be all there and in NICE shape,
I 1st. saw it On my Phone,
couldn't see it too well.
Hi All, looking at a few craftsman options near me found a few models within my price range. Each model is around $200 give or take $25, I plan on haggling a bit to get down to $150 on either of the 100's. I realize the question is subjective but based on first look which would be the better option? I do minimal metal and wood working, would not be heavily used.
The 100 appears to be one of the gold 30th anniversary machines, but the motor is mounted on the wall maybe? Its hard to make out what happened to the thing.
Another appears to be an early model 100 or I guess 80? with a dunlap ball bearing motor, in decent shape could use a little love.
The 150, looks to be in great condition hard to tell what motor is with the unit. looks to be a later model based on what I can see.
JB Weld would be just fine for that application.
JB Weld would be just fine for that application.
Grind the area down about an inch, inch and a half radius from the hole,
so You have some area to feather it in.
I have/ would put tape on the inside, so you can fill the hole without loosing all you JB weld.
Don't be afraid to do it in 2, 3, or 4 coats. On your Finale coat, spread your JB weld Thin, BUT about 2 inches from each side of the hole.
Then when you sand, most of the JB weld furthest away from the hole will be Sanded away all together, BUT it will let it feather in nice, and be all even .
Then when You Prime and paint, you won't see a depression where the hole is. You could even use Body filler (auto) for your last skim coat, You know, if you have any laying around, But not 100 % needed. JB weld sands pretty easy,
My first question is why? Jacobs 33 is very common and easily available. On my lathe the tailstock uses Morse taper with an adapter to Jacobs. In other words I use Jacobs anyway.
yes It Is, I like how the switch placement came out too!
Fair enough. I never thought about that as I have a mill which covers the larger requirements.
I'm thinking that a morse taper spindle from an Atlas (or other) machine would fit into a King-Seeley quill without modification and work well.
Below is a picture of both side-by-side. I lined up the bottom of the lower bearings.
I believe both take 5/8" special bore bearings. The Atlas splined pulley shaft fits nicely onto the K-S spindle and I believe the opposite would be true. There is a slight difference in the length of the splines above the quill.
IIRC, long ago, I swapped the spindle from this Duro machine into a Craftsman machine.
Looks Good!
