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Cramming cars into 22x19x15...

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Tremelune

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I went pretty far down the road of researching an addition, but the cost to build on the steep slope behind the house proved (wildly) prohibitive. There is still the option of expanding a few feet wide at an angle (riding the setback from my fence), but I don't think the juice would be worth the squeeze (it would involve building a new exterior wall and roof to match, becaaause...

I think I can get both a Bendpak HD7P 4-post (100” x 174”) and a Rotary AT07 (123" wide, asymmetric) side by side, and the only work needed would be to the door (and truncating part of the little staircase).

This is certainly not ideal, but it does mean all the benefits of a real 2-post over a scissor, as well as an extra car living inside, which is big. Some of my shop space would be relegated outside under an awning, but it's LA—I already pay for the climate, I might as well take advantage of it.

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alberto

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You might consider putting in a four post, which allows for storage and lets you work on your cars (with some compromise about accessibility), plus a (re)moveable two post lift such as a MaxJax or a UNIVERSALIFT, or a less easy to move low rise lift, a mid rise lift or a scissor lift. The movable two post allows you a fair amount of flexibility in terms of where you mount it, and you aren't locked in to leaving it up all of the time. You do, however, have to account for storage of the posts (at least one of them, you might be able to leave one in place most times). As you have pointed out, it is a compromise, but you don't have a lot of garage real estate to play with.
 
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Tremelune

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So far so good. I had a Rotary AT07 installed, and a Bendpak HD7P will go in after the garage door has been replaced. By all measurements, there are inches to spare.

Now I just need to figure out building a staircase under that doorway.

2-post-installed.jpg
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
Have you considered a High lift door track. It would interfere with the natural light but it would get the door up n out of the way
 

kbuhagiar

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Escondido, CA
Couldn't help but notice the unused washing machine faucet/drain box on the wall. Where did you put the washer/dryer?

real5.jpg
 
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CombatNinja

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Have you considered a High lift door track. It would interfere with the natural light but it would get the door up n out of the way


Pretty sure he has to do something with that garage door situation, right?
It looks like is would smack right into a car on the lift.
 
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Homerr

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Seattle, WA
Probably a fair bit or work but the only realistic long-term house-garage door solution I see is dropping the floor inside the home so it is a level walk out in to the garage. From the garage step up 1 riser in to the home on to a 3' +/- landing area that the door swings over and then up a couple of risers to the main level of the home. Yes, a PITA to do.

Trying to work in some folding/hinged/rolling steps seems like a headache and a hazard.
 

slidehammer

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California Central Coast
Probably a fair bit or work but the only realistic long-term house-garage door solution I see is dropping the floor inside the home so it is a level walk out in to the garage. From the garage step up 1 riser in to the home on to a 3' +/- landing area that the door swings over and then up a couple of risers to the main level of the home. Yes, a PITA to do.

Trying to work in some folding/hinged/rolling steps seems like a headache and a hazard.
Unfortunately, lift arms across the bottom of the stairway would also be a hazard. So would stepping into the garage directly below a descending car.

This situation seems like an exercise in finding the least worst solution. The lift is too close to the doorway even if there weren't stairs involved.

At least flip-down stairs with a swing-out handrail would physically block the doorway when not deployed.

NEW-KZ-Durango-Gold-384RLT-steps-stowed.jpg
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
I think that is too much effort. If they are just suspended from the concrete under the door they'll do fine. I am not sure how much you are willing to ugly the wall up, but you could have quite a structure above them if you wanted to use wood.

I think they could be partially supported from below. You just want enough notched out for the arm to not be a tripping hazard.
 
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