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What is the best epoxy coating(s)

MxRider2637

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This may have been posted before, but i want your opinions on the best epoxy floor coating. I saw quikrete which seemed cheap but has no clear coat, but i was leaning towards Wolverine which seemed strong and had a clear coat. I plan on doing it this spring.
Just wanted your opinions...
 
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AlphaGarage

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mmm, I know Wolverine coatings are at the top of the list, but then I might be a bit biased. So rather than take my word for it, search for "Wolverine" in this forum and read what out clients have to say about our DIY coatings.
 

porphyre

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Everybody's got an opinion.... here are some of mine:

1) Epoxy comes in 3 broad varieties: Water based, solvent based, 100% solids
2) Water based is fine for display-only garages or basements. Road salt/grime and hot tires damage it.
3) Solvent based is the minimum quality for a daily use garage. On a well-prepped surface, should be just fine.
4) 100% solids is the top of the line as far as longevity. Your prep work still needs to be good, but 100% solids is put down thicker and will hide more cracks, divots, etc.

Water is cheapest, solvent about 50% more expensive, 100% solids maybe 50-75% more expensive than solvent.

Water and Solvent are very forgiving and easy to put down. I have not used solids, but the pot-life of the product is only about half the life of water or solvent. That can make things tricky.

I would always go with a clearcoat. I missed a 1"x6" strip when putting down the clearcoat. That strip is not as easy to clean as the rest of the floor. Also, clearcoat is going to take some of the damage that would otherwise hurt the base color.

If your budget is tight, look to a solvent based solution. If you're flush with cash, go with 100% solids. If all you can afford is a water based product, don't bother to do it at all.

Disclaimer: Everything you just read came from an Internet jockey who's only ever done one floor (his own) and screwed up a couple things on it to boot! Do your own research.
 

Mustanger

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Just a thought, but I am almost positve that there is a clear coat for the Quickcrete. Thought I saw it in Lowe's last week.
 

AlphaGarage

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Water is cheapest, solvent about 50% more expensive, 100% solids maybe 50-75% more expensive than solvent.
...
If your budget is tight, look to a solvent based solution. If you're flush with cash, go with 100% solids. If all you can afford is a water based product, don't bother to do it at all.

The true cost isn't always what it seems. Price per square foot is just one way to look at the cost. But to get an accurate picture of what your money is getting you, you need to consider the final depth of the coating after it's cured.

For example, if a water or solvent based product is only 45% solids, that means it's also 55% filler.

Let's say our example material, with the 55% fluff extenders, is $50 per gallon, and a 100% solids is $75 per gallon. Both recommend that their coatings for one of the layers be applied 10 mils thick, so a gallon of each will coat about 160 ft2. At that spec the 45% solids material floor is 31¢ per square foot, and the 100% solids will be 46¢ per square foot.

However, after the material is cured the diluted coating will only be 4.5 mils thick, while the 100% solids coating will still be 10 mils thick. If you wanted the diluted material to end up being as thick as the 100% coating, you need to it put it down at 18.18 mils wet, so that 160 square feet would require 1.8 gallons, and at $50 a gallon that would be $90.

In the final analysis, to get the same depth of coating the diluted material would run not 31¢ per ft2, but actually 56¢ per ft, while the 10% solids is 46¢.

To complicate matters further, we’re assuming that the two cured coatings at the same cured depth would be equal, but that’s usually not the case. That’s because most coatings with water or solvent extenders have an inherent weakness when compared to their 100% solids counterparts. The water or solvents need to dissipate from the coating as it cures, so the extender molecules migrate to the top of the coating and evaporate. As they make their way to the top they leave small trails, at first the liquid coating fills in those microscopic trails and all is well, but as the material hardens those trails are no longer being filled in, they become permanent voids. So instead of a solid coating you end up with a layer that’s riddled with holes.

Best not to be penny wise but dollar foolish.

Also, at one time solids were a bit harder to apply, but thanks to advances in quality raw materials and formulations that’s not necessarily the case anymore. Some of the premium coatings flow and roll out as easily as watered down coatings, and they cover better, so initially rough floors are easy to coat and end up slick as glass.
 

porphyre

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Fred - We don't know each other, but I've got a good amount of respect for your knowledge, ok? But you just went all salesman crazy and complicated things by implying that 100% solids doesn't actually cost more money than a water or solvent product.

Instead of talking mils and microscopic bubbles just talk dollars. While you, as a manufacturer, recommend product based on mils thickness, most other DIY manufacturers simply print big numbers on the sides of their boxes: "Kit covers one 250 sqft garage", etc etc.

How much will it be to do 400 sq ft, 2 color coats + a clear coat in Wolverine?

Compare that to how much it will be with Product X that covers 400 sq ft?

That's how you calculate bang for the buck.

If Product X ends up being a thinner coating than Wolverine, so be it. It's what THAT manufacturer recommended.

I think it's a pretty well known fact around here that 100% solids epoxy is the toughest DIY paint-style product available today. However, I think you did yourself a disservice with all the hand-waving.
 

AlphaGarage

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One of the aspects of my job that I really enjoy is that I often get a chance to speak to our customers, and I'm very surprised by the unusually high percentage of clients who are engineers or otherwise involved in technical pursuits. System engineers, IT, mechanical engineers, software developers, etc., I'd estimate over 60% are so employed. Details like cost per mil per square foot is a normal part of conversation with them, but not everyone is into the minutia. So I can see your point.

Maybe I should have taken a few moments to explain that almost regardless of the coating, generally thicker is better. I understand that from a consumer point of view the bottom line is usually "how much do I need to cover my *** square feet?" and the thickness isn't usually even questioned. Whereas when dealing with commercial bids, the DFT (dry film thickness) is probably the first question placed on the table.

But your point is well taken - some folks just want sq ft coverage info. I attended a SPCC training class a few years ago and one of the class exercises was to prepare specs for a rather involved project. We broke into small groups to hammer out the details, I'd say that over 80% of the students based their work solely on one number - the manufacturers recommended sqft coverage per gallon. Those of us who were punching variations of "1,604" into our calculators were definitely in the minority. But for whatever reason, that's how I look at every job , every product, it's just how I approach things.

There's no getting around the fact that the thickness is important. And my competitors know that, although for marketing purposes they'll hide or ignore the thickness. Although that's usually not deceitful, often it can be a disservice to the consumer. For example, one size fits all kits... They'll advertise that a kit is "good for up to 575 square feet." Well fine, but that means that the guy with a 350 square foot space may be buying more than he needs. Now more material is generally better, but I think it's best if the choice of whether or not to buy that extra is best left up to the DIYer, and to help make that choice it helps if the consumer knows the math involved. I look at it like automobile marketing, if the advertisement mentions some low monthly lease payment, then it's in the consumer's interest that the deposit, residual payment, and other info is also made available, otherwise how can one compare the various offers?

Likewise I think it's good to know what amount of product purchased actually is on the floor when all is said and done. Does pointing that out help my cause? Well yeah, most of our products are 100% solids. Does it help the consumer to have that info? Again, I think most people like to know what it is they're actually getting, if not they can skip over the details and just make their choices looking at the pretty pictures and reading testimonials. That works also.

I'm of the mind that more info is always better. When we get an inquiry we respond with an estimate that gives folks pretty detailed info, including the DFT, but it also has the bottom line price. It's no different than when people go kicking tires at the car dealer, some folks will check the window sticker and read the HP and torque info, others just focus on the sticker price, while some will look at both and calculate the $ per HP.

Different jokes for different folks, I certainly didn't mean to offend or come on too strong.
 

regguy1

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Good post.

I use water borne, not the same as water based. Water borne coating are great.

I smile when the person giving all the advice, has only done one floor.


tncatadjuster: Will this stuff hold up to jacking up a car and using jack stands ?

Can someone evaluate this stuff:
http://www.supercoat.us/pc-182-45-supercoat-super-kit.aspx

Sam's club sell it for reasonable price. What are the pros and cons of it ??
It claims to tolerate some moisture coming through the concrete.....?
They claim it's waterborne material.

Sam's Club Link: http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=112165

They're claiming it's "100% pure epoxy":

SUPERCOAT Liquid Flooring is the professional's choice for coating concrete and wood floors in hundreds of different applications: Garages, Basements, Dog Runs, Porches, Utility Rooms, Storm Shelters… The list goes on and on!

Unlike latex paint, SUPERCOAT is a 100% pure epoxy. This means it is tough and durable enough for the harshest of conditions. Plus, SUPERCOAT is the only coating to feature "WET Chemistry" (Waterborne Epoxy Technology), which actually allows the coating to "breathe", thereby eliminating blisters that eventually cause chipping and peeling.

To enhance your SUPERCOAT floor, we also stock a variety of clear Glaze Coats that protect the decorative flakes and add to the lustre of your new floor. For more information, please use the links to the left.

From Here:
http://www.supercoat.us/default.aspx
 
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Vinko

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Maybe I should have taken a few moments to explain that almost regardless of the coating, generally thicker is better.

I don't think so. I think you made a good point. I have no dog in the fight, but what you said about a solid cover more ground (and more thickly) per gallon can vs. water-based makes sense.


One other thing I was thinking is I'd get the covering that lasted the longest for my application. I don't want to have to do things twice, if I can help it. If something is going to last me a lot longer than another product, it's worth the extra money.
 

WolverineCoatings

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Hi guys...

I'm afraid I'm going to have to rant a bit... I'm doing this on a personal level as I just get really ticked when companies 'oversell' their products. Everytime I see this kind of deceptive marketing I get really mad. I think it makes our industry and our country look bad!

They're claiming it's "100% pure epoxy":

I HATE this kind of marketing. This is a clever way to make you THINK that you are buying 100% solids without actually lying about it. Most people who use this tactic are hoping that all you will remember is the 100%. So, if you are comparing this to 100% SOLIDS you might forget that their 100% is NOT about solids. I take issue with most of this marketing. It is VERY misleading. Just for the record... if anyone ever claims to sell you a 100% pure epoxy for your garage floor... well.. RUN... 100% pure epoxy will NEVER cure... what you will get is a big gooey mess.

Now, what are they actually saying? The only thing this really says is that is it epoxy based and not acrylic latex. You could just as easily say that 'unlike dog doo this is 100% pure epoxy'. EXCEPT... it's NOT pure epoxy... it's WATERBASED... which means that what started as pure epoxy has been diluted... hasn't it.

Plus, SUPERCOAT is the only coating to feature "WET Chemistry" (Waterborne Epoxy Technology), which actually allows the coating to "breathe", thereby eliminating blisters that eventually cause chipping and peeling.

Ohhh.... yeah right... I can't even think about how many products do this. In fact, back in my technical consulting days I presented this technology to scores of paint manufacturers... Do we or anyone else call it 'WET chemistry'??? I don't think so... But... same thing...

Does Wolverine Coatings have a formulation that would mimmick this product... yes

Do we sell much... NO

Why?... Because we have higher technology to handle the problem more effectively.

A 'Breathable' floor is a good option when you can't properly solve a MVT problem and you want to color a floor. Typically, the system is low gloss until you clearcoat. The floor IS microporous which means it has millions of little holes in it.

Will it last as long as 100% solids?

THink about it. What would last longer in your house... hardwood that is 100% solid... OR... the same hardwood with millions of holes drilled in it. Every pore is another avenue for abrasion, chemicals, and other damage.

I get ticked when drug companies say thier products are safe when they know they're not too!

Sorry for the rant... I'm just sick of our dishonest corporate America, lying drug companies, lying bank executives, lying politicians, and people who take advantage of others for greed.:rant:
 

nate379

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I'd like to find out what they use in aircraft hangers. That stuff is damn near bomb proof.

Lots of folks on here have had good luck with the Lowe's/Home Depot kits.
 

regguy1

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From: Wolverine Coatings.....
"I get ticked when drug companies say thier products are safe when they know they're not too!"

"Sorry for the rant... I'm just sick of our dishonest corporate America, lying drug companies, lying bank executives, lying politicians, and people who take advantage of others for greed."

********************************************************************

Thanks for the opinion....A good portion of TV ads are for drugs, most of these "new" drugs are simply "Me to" clones of older stuff so they can get a patent and keep out genarics. A good example is this one called Flomax, I read on consumer reports best buy drugs that it is what's called an alpha blocker....you can get that genaric for $10.00 / month....buy the Heavily advertised Flomax and pay over $200.00 / month. (That's what consumer reports said.) The new formulations must be proven effective, sounds good right...but what does it mean: more effective than a sugar pill placebo in the tests. There's my rant!

Watch this PBS Documentary: Sick Around the World:
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/sickaroundtheworld/

Pay careful attention to when he asks in each country
"How many of your citizens go bankrupt because they happen to get sick?"

The answers might just make you sick.......
 
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WolverineCoatings

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Nate... our products are used in aircraft hangers... If the hangar is a rebuild site where they use heavy chemicals then they use our Novolac formulations (Chemshield 1800 Series)... otherwise... they typically use our LiquaTile 1184 (just like Fred from AlphaGarage is selling here) or bump up to full ceramic...
 

TheBanker

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Ok, I know I just joined but have been reading awhile.....back to the question at hand. MxRider you mentioned two different epoxy products on both ends of the spectrum. Quickrete which is quite inexpenisve and Wolverine which is quite expensive. Have you made a decision? I would also like to ask about a couple others. Like the Armorpoxy or the Original Color Chips. Does anyone have experience with either of these? Wolverine guys I have read almost all of your posts on this forum and understand your product however as far as I can tell you are a bit out of my price range.

To explain what I am doing. I have a 2.5 car garage thats about 3 years old. We park one maybe two cars in it daily. I no longer work on cars or do any serious work in the garage. Mostly small projects and such. My main goal is to just have a damn good looking garage at the best possible price. (after all I am a Banker) I may even sell this house within a couple/few years. With all the talk, I am apprehensive of using the box stores products primarly because of hot tire pickup.

Any suggestions on an inexpenisve product, high gloss, that looks awesome but will hold up for several years with cars being parked on it and the occasional spill or tool drop?
 

nate379

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I had looked into it, but the cost of the epoxy plus shipping was well above and beyond my budget unfortunately.

Nate... our products are used in aircraft hangers... If the hangar is a rebuild site where they use heavy chemicals then they use our Novolac formulations (Chemshield 1800 Series)... otherwise... they typically use our LiquaTile 1184 (just like Fred from AlphaGarage is selling here) or bump up to full ceramic...
 
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TheBanker

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All this reading and shopping and comparing....so close to just running to Home Depot and buying the rustoleum and getting it done.
 

TheShrine

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All this reading and shopping and comparing....so close to just running to Home Depot and buying the rustoleum and getting it done.

Depending on your application (commercial vs. hobbyist), you'll probably be happy. I put the Quikrete product down on a new floor and it is rock solid. Of course I'm not dragging chassis across it or welding on it, but it gets a good work out. I drop tools and stuff all of the time with no problem. I did drop a starter and a brake caliper while the car was up on the lift which left me with a couple of divots, but only myself knows they are there. The decorative flakes almost completely hide them. I cannot recommend the clear coat though.

Regardless of product and use, surface preparation is always VERY important!

HPIM2313.jpg


HPIM2310.jpg
 
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MxRider2637

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All this reading and shopping and comparing....so close to just running to Home Depot and buying the rustoleum and getting it done.

I'm thinking the same.

My garage is a 3 car garage and i use it to work on the atv's, tractor and small things on the cars, like oil, tires, etc. I guess my question is, will the quikrete hold up good?, They claim its 2x stronger than concrete. I just don't have the money for a 100% solids since i have been looking at prices and at bout 65 a package, quikrete seems like a good deal.

But i cant do it now anyway since the Pittsburgh area got like 20 inches of snow, but if it goes on sale, i would probably snag it.
 

Titus

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Stay away from the BEHR stuff at Home Depot. The prior owner of my house put down the BEHR concrete bonding primer followed by the BEHR "1-Part Epoxy Acrylic Concrete and Garage floor paint" and it is peeling under the tires.
 

J-R0d

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This thread is extermley interesting to me. I started framing today on my new shop. It is a 50x50 building. I would like to coat the floors before I start moving stuff in once the shop is complete. So, I am interested in what would be the "best" coating both from an absolute standpoint, but also from a cost/benefit analysis.


The biggest issue I have seen with any application of anything is always the prep.

I had considered the U-Coat it system, but many people on some of the other forums I am on have compalined that it tends to lift off the floor when you have a vehicle with "sticky tires". My shop is for keeping my toys, and working on them. Many of them have "sticky tires". So, that obviously is a concern.

What I am looking for is a floor that will look good, not lift, and be durable. So, any input folks have would be of interest to me.


It seems like there are a number of folks who are very happy with the Wolverine product. I am just wondering how some of the other coatings stack up, and if there is enough of a difference to justify the cost delta.
 
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MxRider2637

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I just read more about it and its a water based epoxy, seems most people here say to never buy water-based. Anyone know some good solvent based garage floor epoxies?
 

TheBanker

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Yeah I was looking at u-coat it too and it is water based, thats when I starting thinking about the box store stuff again. Original Color Chips is waterborne. I guess thats the same as water based?? ArmorClad is 100% solids but the clear coat is 1 part. Epoxy-coat is 100% solids and you can add clear, not sure if 1 or 2 part clear. Prices I found for about 500 Sq ft is.....OCC is 355.00, epoxy-coat is 484.00, ucoatit is 484.00, and armorclad is 449.00. I think the ucoatit product does not have a clear top coat in that price. Seems expenisve for waterbased compared to box stores. I priced wolverine using their calculator and came up with a price just over 1000.00. There are a couple more out there, some being the same product with different names. Still want to look at epoxyguard. I am still thinking of running to home depot and spending maybe 300. I cant do it this weekend cause of temp and rain so maybe I will read some more........

Still needing input......
 

TheBanker

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Depending on your application (commercial vs. hobbyist), you'll probably be happy. I put the Quikrete product down on a new floor and it is rock solid. Of course I'm not dragging chassis across it or welding on it, but it gets a good work out. I drop tools and stuff all of the time with no problem. I did drop a starter and a brake caliper while the car was up on the lift which left me with a couple of divots, but only myself knows they are there. The decorative flakes almost completely hide them. I cannot recommend the clear coat though.

Well that makes me feel better considering I do very little work in my garage anymore. Its mostly for looks and ease of cleaning but I also want it to last. You said Quikrete. I like the Rustoleum better for whatever reason. I would assume they are going to be very similar?
 

AlphaGarage

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Here's my input... Our online calculator, in fact the whole site, is actually up for testing only right now - still a few bugs.

If you're like me, math hurts your head. But for a project that you're going to be living with for years it's worth a few minutes of number pain to get it done right the first, and hopefully only, time. For 500 ft2 we'd quote the following...For most home garage and shop applications we recommend a three layer epoxy coating system for maximum durability and lasting appearance. The primer coat would be BondTite 1101, a 100% solids epoxy with extremely tenacious grip strength. That would be followed with a coat of LiquaTile 1184, this pigmented epoxy will give your floor the ability to withstand shock and impacts, protecting the concrete. Finally a clear coat of EnduraShield 2254 to help resist abrasion and give your floor that high gloss finish. In addition to curing to an extremely hard and durable surface, EnduraShield 2254 is also UV resistant so it will keep its water clear great appearance longer.

For 500 sq ft your system would have 3 gallons of BondTite 1101 for the primer coat, 4.5 gallons of LiquaTile 1184 as the body coat, and 1.25 gallons of EnduraShield 2254 for the UV resistant clear coat. For most colors those would be $795. With those recommended materials, combined you would have a floor coating system with a nominal thickness of 27.6 mils (not including waste – material left on brushes, in cans etc.).

That works out to $1.59/ft2.

How does it compare? Well looking just at UKnowwho their basic kit spread over 500 ft2 will net a coating 3.28 mils thick, now they pretty much admit that their basic kit isn't all that durable, and so they do offer a high build product that they recommend be used in addition to their basic one-size-fits-all kit, it's "Ideal for heavy duty use in mechanical areas or professional repair facilities", enough to coat 500 ft2 is an additional $663, the final dry film depth would be approx 16 mils.

As far as prep.. yes prep is critical, but it's not everything. Review the experiences people share here in this forum alone. There are plenty of posts of people who seemed to do everything right, but still experienced failure of some type. Keep score and you'll notice that it happens with some products quite often. One reason for that is that due to superior formulas and better (usually more expensive) raw ingredients some coating chemicals have a better far ability to tolerate problems with prep, environment, and application..

The fact is that epoxies can be tricky, and there can be factors that effect even projects with good prep. Contaminants, weather, unknown substrate conditions, measuring, mixing, etc. We've even had a couple of issues where our clients seemed to do everything right, and something unexpected happened that we simply couldn't figure out. That even happens on professional projects. The key is to have as many of the proven positive factors on your side as possible, then the odds are extremely good that your project will be overwhelmingly successful. Proper prep + quality consumer support + proven products + diligent application = a durable, good looking. long lasting, productive floor.
 
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TheBanker

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Fred,

That pricing sounds much better and I will take it under serious consideration. You are quite helpful on here with advice concerning not only your product but in general. I would like to take a moment to give you feed back as a shopper for epoxy and the wolverine website.

I visited the site at least 4 times before I actually found what I was looking for. The first few times I just clicked around a bit and didn't find what I wanted, so I moved on. I only kept returning because of the talk on here. There is something to say for those plain-jane websites and the ease of navigation. Don't get me wrong, the website is very well done but I am just looking for the quick facts: Material, packages or kits, pictures and price. A list of names of products does not help me at all. Short descriptions do. Anyway, I wont continue on...if your interested in more feed back I would be happy to reply to your pm.

Back to the product.....I don't know if I covered with you but my garage does not get much work in it anymore. The worst is parking cars on it nightly and the occasional drop of a tool. My main purpose is for looks and ease of cleaning. But....I do want to have something I can be proud of.
 

AlphaGarage

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Yes, the site has some nav issues. One of the problems is that we are sensitive to the fact that we're selling a premium product, but that quality comes with a higher perceived, and often actual, price compared to a lot of the other products in the field. When we make calls on industrial clients, that's generally not an issue, not so with retail DIY. So we're trying to get the cost down as low as possible, and due to coverage rates and package sizing that means we can't offer a "one size fits all" type kit, because that route will mean that some folks will be paying more for product they just don't need.

Plus, beside the quantity issue, there isn't a one size fits all system for products either. Some people want DF, some not. Some want BondTite as the clear coat, others want EnduraShield. It gets complicated.

For a floor that doesn't get a big work out, ie not too much heavy punishing work, consider our AcryliSeal 3501. Excellent chemical resistance, adheres well, the big difference is that it offers little impact resistance. Smallest kit is 5 gallons ($235), which will coat 750 ft2 with 2 coats. It's the material that Trader Joe's is now putting on all their store floors. We've even used it on warehouse floors with forklift traffic.

Prep is similar, we recommend an acid etch, but I know quite a few clients who have just scrubbed and pressure washed. Application is far easier since it's a single component product, just mix and roll it on. Dries almost as quickly as water would. Easy soap and water clean up.

Currently we're just offering it in clear, although it can be tinted or colored with most acrylic dyes, the same ones used in any paint store. I think we're going to offer color packs soon, or so I'm told.

It's a proprietary formulation, we don't know of any other product that's even close in price/performance, although I've heard some competitors are working real hard at cracking the code. As it is I wouldn't be surprised if it outperforms some of those retail 2 part epoxies you're looking at.

We have one flooring contractor who's a distributor for a slew of coating manufacturers, he gets deals on them all, but he's been spec'ing AcryliSeal for a bunch of wide ranging jobs. In fact he's the one who used it on a warehouse floor first. His clients got the keys to the space on a Friday, and had corporate and local dignitaries coming in the following Monday for a grand opening dog and pony show. With prep and all there was no way his crew could install an epoxy system, so the would put down a quick AcryliSeal floor, then come back in a few days, strip it, and put in the epoxy. Well that was months ago and they still can't justify doing the swap because the AcryliSeal is holding up that well. Even with forklift traffic and pallets sliding around.
 
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rugerlady

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My turn to chime in for Epoxy-Coat. Our product, and our other company Toledo Floor, are used in all branches of the armed services, we are used at NASA among other large buildings and aircraft hangars. Our 100% solid epoxy, is one of the best and most affordable products on the market. Call us for a quote on your project.
 

dulmer

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Location
SC Lowcountry
Funny, I just got off of your site and was going to ask for opinions about your products..
 
Last edited:

TheBanker

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
428
Location
Franklin, Tn
I am noticing that the Quikcrete products state semi-gloss whereas the Rustoleum states high gloss. Anyone notice the difference in sheen following application of the two?
 

J-R0d

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
28
Alpha garage,

Two questions:

If I just clear the floor with your materials, how many mils of material am I looking at?

Can I put your clear over an actual concrete stain safely, or would you only recommend clearing over your materials. What I am looking for is an effect like this.

attachment.php
 

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