Twin Busch TW-S3-10E Scissor Lift

byalegend · Jan 25, 2017

Hi. I'm considering getting a scissor lift for my two-car garage that has 8 ft. ceilings. I wanted a lift with double scissors, just in case I need to remove a transmission or work on an exhaust. The TW-S3-10E is portable, which I like, but it has a couple bars at ground level connecting the two scissors; might be able to work around the bars. Does anyone have any experience with this lift? Are there similar portable alternatives that others have used?

http://www.twinbusch.com/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=8

Thanks

byalegend · Jan 26, 2017

Aahz · Jan 27, 2017

A few thoughts..First, that lift appears to be available as a portable lift with additional accessories, but it doesn't look like it comes standard that way. (Don't be surprised if the price jumps substantially!)
2nd..the bars connecting the right and left platforms are probably torsion bars, designed to keep the platforms level. They are going to be a pain to work around, but not impossible. (The bars are probably about 2" in diameter and about 1" off the floor.

I've sold thousands of lifts over the year and I can honestly say I have never heard of this company. I'm not going to say that they aren't the biggest lift company in Europe, but it would surprise me if they were. From my understanding, the largest in Europe is Nussbaum followed by Rotary (who just bought Ravignioli in Italy) and then either Maha or Stertil-Koni.

At the price they are selling that lift for, it could be that Twin Busch is a brand being imported to Europe from Asia. European products are typically much higher priced.

byalegend · Feb 17, 2017

Aahz said:
A few thoughts..First, that lift appears to be available as a portable lift with additional accessories, but it doesn't look like it comes standard that way. (Don't be surprised if the price jumps substantially!)
2nd..the bars connecting the right and left platforms are probably torsion bars, designed to keep the platforms level. They are going to be a pain to work around, but not impossible. (The bars are probably about 2" in diameter and about 1" off the floor.

I've sold thousands of lifts over the year and I can honestly say I have never heard of this company. I'm not going to say that they aren't the biggest lift company in Europe, but it would surprise me if they were. From my understanding, the largest in Europe is Nussbaum followed by Rotary (who just bought Ravignioli in Italy) and then either Maha or Stertil-Koni.

At the price they are selling that lift for, it could be that Twin Busch is a brand being imported to Europe from Asia. European products are typically much higher priced.

Thanks for the info. I contacted Twin Busch in California a few weeks ago, and I was told the mobile kit is sold separately for $169. According to the salesperson, there are no other accessories. Preliminary research shows that their machines are designed in Germany and made in China. I haven't seen any complaints, although there aren't many reviews.

byalegend · Feb 20, 2017

The Everlift EE-MR30 appears to be the same lift. There isn't much in the way of reviews on it, either.

DividedAttention · Feb 20, 2017

I bought the equivalent to this lift about 8 years ago - http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift

I've been very happy with it and despite the challenges of working under and around the connecting members of the lift I've been able to do exhaust work, swapped an engine in a 4wd isuzu axiom, and a clutch R&R on an audi a6 quattro...for that one I married an old bumper jack and HF engine stand to make a transmission jack.

byalegend · Feb 20, 2017

DividedAttention said:
I bought the equivalent to this lift about 8 years ago - http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift

I've been very happy with it and despite the challenges of working under and around the connecting members of the lift I've been able to do exhaust work, swapped an engine in a 4wd isuzu axiom, and a clutch R&R on an audi a6 quattro...for that one I married an old bumper jack and HF engine stand to make a transmission jack.

Creative. I looked at one of those lifts, but I'd prefer to have the open space between the dual scissors.

SiGmA_X · Feb 20, 2017

I'm a fan of the full rise clear floor scissors. Reports are that it can require some creativity for top of chassis engine removal, I've yet to try. Seems like all the more reason to drop the engine out the bottom to me!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433

byalegend · Feb 21, 2017

SiGmA_X said:
I'm a fan of the full rise clear floor scissors. Reports are that it can require some creativity for top of chassis engine removal, I've yet to try. Seems like all the more reason to drop the engine out the bottom to me!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433

Yes, I saw those pics. I would love a setup like that in my garage. I thought the portability aspect of a mobile unit would work better, since my garage ceilings are low. I had to do a V6 engine replacement in my driveway this past summer because of the ceiling and garage door height and because I had to pull the engine and transmission out the top.

byalegend · Mar 6, 2017

I was looking at my 2-car garage's ceiling, which is currently open, and it appears that it wouldn't take much work to modify the three middle trusses in one of the bays so the ceiling can be raised. I'd already planned on installing a jack shaft garage door opener if I were to purchase a portable or stationary lift. I may explore the in-floor option.

The other thing my wife and I were discussing is how long we really plan on staying in our current house, which may be another five years or so. Dunno.

byalegend · Mar 25, 2017

I was thinking about converting the two 8ft-wide garage doors into a single garage door. I did some reading about this on the forum, and it sounds like it could get pricey:

- A single 3-1/2"×7-1/8" actual beam currently spans the two doors with a center post, and there is obviously no living space above the garage.
- The cripple studs above the header are 5" tall.
- The space between the two doors is about 11-1/2", so a 17ft-wide door should work.

I was thinking that a 12" tall glulam beam could work as a new header.

The thought is that I could possibly raise at least the center portion of the ceiling then install a Triumph C7000 lift.

Thoughts?

byalegend · Mar 27, 2017

I found this table online:

The rough opening for the new garage door would be 17 ft and the "span of supported roof trusses" is 20ft. Since the snow load in my area is 25 psf, I guessed that a 3-1/2"×12"x18' glulam would work. Based on calculations, it would only weigh about 190lbs, so two of us should be able to handle it. I'm going to check with a local lumber yard this weekend.

Installing a 12" tall glulam would leave a 3/16" gap above the header, so I may see if it can be built to 12-3/16" tall.

Thanks

byalegend · Mar 30, 2017

I chatted with a structural engineer online and provided detailed information for his calculations, and he would not recommend a glulam beam for the 18ft span because of the 12" height restriction. He pointed me to a W8x21 steel beam: "The steel beam can be W8x21 beam ASTM A992 Gr. 50."

My walls are 2x4, and the W8x21 beam is 5-1/4" wide, so this seems like it's not a good option. He said my other option is to use an HSS: "An HSS 10 x 3 1/2 x 5/16 will work. ASTM A500 Gr. B". I'm researching how to install those in a wood wall. If anyone knows how they're installed, feel free to reply.

Thanks.

vettex2 · Mar 30, 2017

byalegend said:
Hi. I'm considering getting a scissor lift for my two-car garage that has 8 ft. ceilings. I wanted a lift with double scissors, just in case I need to remove a transmission or work on an exhaust. The TW-S3-10E is portable, which I like, but it has a couple bars at ground level connecting the two scissors; might be able to work around the bars. Does anyone have any experience with this lift? Are there similar portable alternatives that others have used?

http://www.twinbusch.com/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=8

Thanks

I'd lay a sheet of plywood thick enough between the bars to make it level for a ****** jack

vettex2 · Mar 30, 2017

byalegend said:
Hi. I'm considering getting a scissor lift for my two-car garage that has 8 ft. ceilings. I wanted a lift with double scissors, just in case I need to remove a transmission or work on an exhaust. The TW-S3-10E is portable, which I like, but it has a couple bars at ground level connecting the two scissors; might be able to work around the bars. Does anyone have any experience with this lift? Are there similar portable alternatives that others have used?
Thanks

I'd try top lay a sheet of plywood thick enough between the bars to make it level for a ****** jack. The bars look pretty thick though.
Maybe a sheet of metal plate?
The lifting height is pretty low too.
BendPak MDS-6KF might be a better choice.

byalegend · Mar 30, 2017

vettex2 said:
I'd try top lay a sheet of plywood thick enough between the bars to make it level for a ****** jack. The bars look pretty thick though.
Maybe a sheet of metal plate? The lifting height is pretty low too.

If I were to go with this lift, which is currently lower on my prefence list vs the C7000, I would probably look at building a ramp to go over the bars. The portability of the Twin Busch lift is why I considered it.

vettex2 · Mar 30, 2017

If I were to do it all again (I snagged a brand new scissor lift for a grand) I'd go posts

byalegend · Mar 30, 2017

vettex2 said:
If I were to do it all again (I snagged a brand new scissor lift for a grand) I'd go posts

Nice snag. The expense of the garage mods may make me postpone the two-post in favor of a scissor in the interim. Too many other priorities.

vettex2 · Mar 30, 2017

byalegend said:
Nice snag. The expense of the garage mods may make me postpone the two-post in favor of a scissor in the interim. Too many other priorities.

I thought you were looking at a C7000?
that's a 2 poster isn't it?

byalegend · Mar 30, 2017

vettex2 said:
I thought you were looking at a C7000?
that's a 2 poster isn't it?

Yes, the C7000 is the lift I'd prefer, but the required garage mods may make me choose a lower cost scissor then upgrade later.

byalegend · Mar 31, 2017

I received a detail doc from a structural engineer online for the garage door mod from two singles to a double. Having 2x4 walls to install a steel beam as a header is definitely not ideal �� He recommended a 12x2x5/16 HSS with lindapters and triple jack and king studs on each end. The closest HSS I saw online was 12x2x1/4, and it was $900. Lindapters are about $5 each; I need somewhere in the neighborhood of 35 of them.

Preliminary estimate, including tools, materials, permit, local engineer review (not sure of cost here), is about $4000 to modify the garage opening if I do the work myself. Wow.

byalegend · Apr 7, 2017

I bought a used Liftmaster 3800 full setup for $65 on Offerup. I'm kicking around the idea of buying a scissor lift like the Bendpak MD6XP, Atlas TD6MR, or some other model until I can sort out the double garage door situation (I also have some other things to do around the house, including finishing a bathroom remodel.). The Twin Busch will require a new panel because it needs a 30-amp circuit to run; I've run out of space in my old 60-amp panel. Ultimately, I'd like to install the C7000.

javyLSU · May 24, 2019

I know this thread is old, but I recently purchased and installed the Twin Busch S3-10E and thought I would throw my 2 cents in...

I researched the hell out of this thing before buying, so there wasn't anything that came up as a surprise, which was a good thing. Dan at Twin Busch is very responsive, and answered all of the questions I had prior to and after purchasing. A VERY big reason I wound up buying this lift versus other mid/low rise lifts is that this lift does not need air. The almost identical Atlas Qwik Bay 7000 needs compressed air to release the safety locks (so you can lower the lift after raising). Also, the moving parts of this style of scissor lift do not roll on the concrete - I briefly considered the Bendpak MD6XP-style of lift, but I didn't like that the wheels rolled directly on the concrete. I just don't want to risk wearing, crumbling concrete in my garage in the future.

I am going to buy the Atlas Scissor Lift Support Bars to use with this lift, as the frame of my truck is too close to the inside edges of the lifting platforms for my liking. This set will balance out the load across the entire width of the platform, and is a necessary accessory IMO if you're going to be lifting any vehicles where the lifting points don't fall exactly in the middle of the platforms. Dan at Twin Busch told me that they are developing Twin Busch-branded support bars, but doesn't know when they will be released for sale.

Something else I noticed is that the packaging the lift came in indicates a max load of 7000 lbs instead of the advertised 6600, so that was nice. Also, I realized that if you put a sheet of plywood over the lifting platforms, you now have a hydraulic lifting table - I wish I would have had this thing when I bought my 44" tool box a few months ago!

To the previous poster @byalegend - the manual states that the lift pulls 16 amps, so Twin Busch recommends a dedicated 20 amp circuit, not 30 amp - I installed a dedicated 20 amp run to my box, and have lifted my vehicle numerous times without issue. Not sure if you've already made a decision, as this thread is over two years old.

I'd be happy to answer any other questions for anyone considering this lift, as there doesn't seem to be much information out there on it. I would absolutely buy this lift again now that I've got some experience with it. :thumbup:

CryptLord_92 · Jun 18, 2019

javyLSU said:
I know this thread is old, but I recently purchased and installed the Twin Busch S3-10E and thought I would throw my 2 cents in...

I researched the hell out of this thing before buying, so there wasn't anything that came up as a surprise, which was a good thing. Dan at Twin Busch is very responsive, and answered all of the questions I had prior to and after purchasing. A VERY big reason I wound up buying this lift versus other mid/low rise lifts is that this lift does not need air. The almost identical Atlas Qwik Bay 7000 needs compressed air to release the safety locks (so you can lower the lift after raising). Also, the moving parts of this style of scissor lift do not roll on the concrete - I briefly considered the Bendpak MD6XP-style of lift, but I didn't like that the wheels rolled directly on the concrete. I just don't want to risk wearing, crumbling concrete in my garage in the future.

I am going to buy the Atlas Scissor Lift Support Bars to use with this lift, as the frame of my truck is too close to the inside edges of the lifting platforms for my liking. This set will balance out the load across the entire width of the platform, and is a necessary accessory IMO if you're going to be lifting any vehicles where the lifting points don't fall exactly in the middle of the platforms. Dan at Twin Busch told me that they are developing Twin Busch-branded support bars, but doesn't know when they will be released for sale.

Something else I noticed is that the packaging the lift came in indicates a max load of 7000 lbs instead of the advertised 6600, so that was nice. Also, I realized that if you put a sheet of plywood over the lifting platforms, you now have a hydraulic lifting table - I wish I would have had this thing when I bought my 44" tool box a few months ago!

To the previous poster @byalegend - the manual states that the lift pulls 16 amps, so Twin Busch recommends a dedicated 20 amp circuit, not 30 amp - I installed a dedicated 20 amp run to my box, and have lifted my vehicle numerous times without issue. Not sure if you've already made a decision, as this thread is over two years old.

I'd be happy to answer any other questions for anyone considering this lift, as there doesn't seem to be much information out there on it. I would absolutely buy this lift again now that I've got some experience with it.

Hey man! Thanks for the info on this lift. I am really looking to get this. Like you, I have been doing a lot of research on it. Would you be able to take a few photos? Also how did you get it to the garage upon delivery? Dan said that the delivery guy is only responsible for CURBside delivery. He's not responsible to get it into the garage. Don't have a forklift and all so not sure how I would get it in.

Also is there really a need for a dedicated circuit? We can't just plug it to a regular 20amp outlet and call it a day?

How is your access underneath at max lift? Any chance for a photo of you sitting under for reference? Haha...

javyLSU · Jun 18, 2019

CryptLord_92 said:
Hey man! Thanks for the info on this lift. I am really looking to get this. Like you, I have been doing a lot of research on it. Would you be able to take a few photos? Also how did you get it to the garage upon delivery? Dan said that the delivery guy is only responsible for CURBside delivery. He's not responsible to get it into the garage. Don't have a forklift and all so not sure how I would get it in.

Also is there really a need for a dedicated circuit? We can't just plug it to a regular 20amp outlet and call it a day?

How is your access underneath at max lift? Any chance for a photo of you sitting under for reference? Haha...

I can’t take any photos this week because of schedule, but I’ll try to get you some as soon as I can.

Like you, I stressed over the delivery and was prepared for what I imagined to be the worst case scenario - a lazy driver in a 53 foot truck who didn’t want to lift a finger, and would just leave it on the curb. So I had two plans - plan A was to bribe the driver. I’ve got a pretty easy and very accessible driveway to my garage, so I was hoping that I could convince him with $50 to roll it up my driveway while it was still on their pallet jack into my garage. Plan B was small wooden moving dollies from Harbor freight. I bought 4 of them, with plans to put one under each corner of the pallet, and then roll the pallet up my driveway into the garage. Well...

It turned out that I didn’t need either plan. The delivery company sent the lift in a 26 foot truck with a lift gate. They backed the truck right up my driveway, pulled the lift onto the lift gate with their pallet jack, and wheeled it into my garage. I couldn’t believe it was that easy! This is very much YMMV though, since every house is different, and so is every driver...

I did install a dedicated 20A circuit. One big reason was that I wanted to wire up a switch to turn the circuit on or off, out of reach of my two year old daughter, who likes to play in the garage. Under load, the lift drops the voltage on my circuit to about 90-95A, so it legitimately pulls 20A. If you don’t have anything else powered on and running on your circuit, you might be able to run the lift on that, but I would go ahead and run a dedicated 20A circuit for the lift.

Access under the lift is great - I don’t expect to be underneath much except for oil changes and greasing the driveline, but it’s the perfect height to sit and roll around on one of those rolling stools/creepers. Everything is within reach at full lift height. Most of what I’ll be using it for is for tire and brake service though, and for that I only need the tires off the ground.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and I’ll try to get some pictures for you as soon as I can.

CryptLord_92 · Jun 19, 2019

javyLSU said:
I cant take any photos this week because of schedule, but Ill try to get you some as soon as I can.

Like you, I stressed over the delivery and was prepared for what I imagined to be the worst case scenario - a lazy driver in a 53 foot truck who didnt want to lift a finger, and would just leave it on the curb. So I had two plans - plan A was to bribe the driver. Ive got a pretty easy and very accessible driveway to my garage, so I was hoping that I could convince him with $50 to roll it up my driveway while it was still on their pallet jack into my garage. Plan B was small wooden moving dollies from Harbor freight. I bought 4 of them, with plans to put one under each corner of the pallet, and then roll the pallet up my driveway into the garage. Well...

It turned out that I didnt need either plan. The delivery company sent the lift in a 26 foot truck with a lift gate. They backed the truck right up my driveway, pulled the lift onto the lift gate with their pallet jack, and wheeled it into my garage. I couldnt believe it was that easy! This is very much YMMV though, since every house is different, and so is every driver...

I did install a dedicated 20A circuit. One big reason was that I wanted to wire up a switch to turn the circuit on or off, out of reach of my two year old daughter, who likes to play in the garage. Under load, the lift drops the voltage on my circuit to about 90-95A, so it legitimately pulls 20A. If you dont have anything else powered on and running on your circuit, you might be able to run the lift on that, but I would go ahead and run a dedicated 20A circuit for the lift.

Access under the lift is great - I dont expect to be underneath much except for oil changes and greasing the driveline, but its the perfect height to sit and roll around on one of those rolling stools/creepers. Everything is within reach at full lift height. Most of what Ill be using it for is for tire and brake service though, and for that I only need the tires off the ground.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and Ill try to get some pictures for you as soon as I can.

Thanks for the info! Yea I think once I put in an order for this lift, I'll have the back ups plan like you with getting it in the garage.

For this lift, is it directional? I mean like you can back up or drive forward the car and it can lift either way right? So it's not restricted to only one way and all?

Twin Busch also now have the ramp set to increase the underclearance height. Did you also get the ramp set?

As for the Atlas Scissor Lift Support Bars, is is a "must" have? Twin Busch doesn't mention anything like for the Atlas requiring to have them as of "now" so safe to say that we can still use it to lift SUV/Pickup trucks with narrow body frame? As long as we don't leave it on for a long time?

Did you run the dedicated circuit on your own or hired an electrician? Just wondering about the cost.

Appreciate the reply man! Looking forward for the photos!
The price is great for this lift... without the need for air to lower!

javyLSU · Jun 19, 2019

Glad to help! Yeah, the ability to run without air is what really sold me on this lift. I've transitioned nearly all of my tools to battery, and I can't remember the last time I pulled the air compressor out - so I'm happy whenever I can leave it right where it is, tucked away in a corner of my garage...

I haven't found anything that says the lift is directional, but I always lean to the side of caution when it comes to lifting (in my case) 4,500 lbs. I've only tried it "front ways," because the way the rear cross member slides forward to produce the lift, it seems that the lift was designed so that most of the weight of the vehicle (the engine) is supported by the cross member that doesn't slide (the front). I would ask Dan directly if can lift they way you're looking to.

I didn't get the ramp set, because I have the opposite problem - too much ground clearance. Both of the vehicles in my household are SUVs, and could clear the ramps even if all the tires were flat.

As for the support bars, it really depends on what you plan on lifting. If the lift points of the vehicles you're going to lift are right in the middle of the platforms, then there's really no reason to buy the support bars. In my case, I didn't want to risk it because the lift points on the frame of my vehicles are close to the inner edge of the platforms, so I wanted to make sure I wouldn't cause any damage to the lift, my house, my vehicle or my body, so I spent the extra for the support bars.

I did the electrical myself - what I had planned was fairly simple, so it all depends on your skill and how much you value your time. I would imagine a licensed electrician would charge about $300, depending on the complexity/distance of the circuit you're looking to run.

javyLSU · Aug 9, 2019

@CryptLord_92 Sorry guys, I completely forgot about the photos. Here’s one with the heaviest vehicle we have in the household, the FJ Cruiser (~5700 lbs as I have it set up) in the air with no problem whatsoever. I’m 5’10” for reference, sitting on a Napa rolling seat:

CryptLord_92 · Aug 14, 2019

javyLSU said:
@CryptLord_92 Sorry guys, I completely forgot about the photos. Here’s one with the heaviest vehicle we have in the household, the FJ Cruiser (~5700 lbs as I have it set up) in the air with no problem whatsoever. I’m 5’10” for reference, sitting on a Napa rolling seat:

Man that's pretty much the perfect height! That SUV support bars raised it up a little more, but still it looks great!

Any problems have you experience yet since the last time posted? Have you tried lifting the FJ Cruiser before without the bars? If so did it seem weaker? Or still solid?

You park your car over it at all?
I still haven't got it yet. But after this photo, I think I'm going to be back on it. Though perhaps I should try to sell my Quickjack before hand.

javyLSU · Aug 14, 2019

CryptLord_92 said:
Man that's pretty much the perfect height! That SUV support bars raised it up a little more, but still it looks great!

Any problems have you experience yet since the last time posted? Have you tried lifting the FJ Cruiser before without the bars? If so did it seem weaker? Or still solid?

You park your car over it at all?
I still haven't got it yet. But after this photo, I think I'm going to be back on it. Though perhaps I should try to sell my Quickjack before hand.

Well, in my case it is the "perfect height" because any higher and my FJ would start hitting stuff on the ceiling. I've had no problems with it at all - at first the lift would descend too quickly when loaded, but I sent an email to Dan at Twin Busch and he taught me how to adjust the knob so that the lift comes down slower.

I didn't even try to lift the FJ without the support bars, because the frame rails are about 5 inches from the inside edges of each platform, and that's just too much weight that's not over the strongest point of the lift for me to risk my life (or my garage and truck) on it.

I park over it every night. Because of that I wound up anchoring it to the garage floor. I know the lift is designed to be "portable," but I have absolutely no need or plans to ever move this lift, and now I don't have to shift into four-wheel drive to drive over the lift (heavy SUVs and trucks might "push" the lift along the floor if you drive onto it too fast). If I ever do need to move the lift, I would just unbolt the lift from the concrete anchors and grind the anchors down flush to the floor.

gearhead82 · Sep 12, 2019

New guy here. Hope you don’t mind me chiming I’m on this thread! I’ve been looking pretty closely at this lift for my garage. I have 10’ ceilings and the tallest/largest cars I’d regularly be working on are the wife’s Ford Escape and my Crown Vic. I could probably take advantage of something that lifts a bit taller like the C7000 or Twin Busch’s full rise lift but I really like the portability and price of this setup.

In the picture with your FJ, is that as high as the lift goes or could it go higher if you had a taller ceiling? At the pictured height can you roll around under the engine with any degree of comfort or are you still having to duck and watch your head? I’d like to be able to drop the trans out of my Crown Vic with some ease. Any new observations, love or hate since your last post?

Thanks!

javyLSU said:
Well, in my case it is the "perfect height" because any higher and my FJ would start hitting stuff on the ceiling. I've had no problems with it at all - at first the lift would descend too quickly when loaded, but I sent an email to Dan at Twin Busch and he taught me how to adjust the knob so that the lift comes down slower.

I didn't even try to lift the FJ without the support bars, because the frame rails are about 5 inches from the inside edges of each platform, and that's just too much weight that's not over the strongest point of the lift for me to risk my life (or my garage and truck) on it.

I park over it every night. Because of that I wound up anchoring it to the garage floor. I know the lift is designed to be "portable," but I have absolutely no need or plans to ever move this lift, and now I don't have to shift into four-wheel drive to drive over the lift (heavy SUVs and trucks might "push" the lift along the floor if you drive onto it too fast). If I ever do need to move the lift, I would just unbolt the lift from the concrete anchors and grind the anchors down flush to the floor.

pbon · Sep 12, 2019

That lift looks like a pain in the rear for any serious car work, but is definitely still better than nothing. I’d probably prefer quick jacks. Definitely prefer Max Jax. The reason is the undercard access. You pretty much have walls on the sides due to the 2 scissor structures, so you have to crawl and duck under from one end or the other. Then you have the cross bats tying the 2 scissors together. That will get in the way of dropping a trans or doing driveshaft or exhaust work. At least with quick jacks the area is open underneath.

For 10’ ceilings, I would go with a 2 post floor plate lift and put a lift height stop so the roof does not hit the ceiling. With a Max Jax you would be paying the same as a 2 post floor plate but getting less lift height and you might want it. Some people have raised their ceiling—I did in my current house—to allow more lift height.

javyLSU · Sep 12, 2019

gearhead82 said:
New guy here. Hope you don’t mind me chiming I’m on this thread! I’ve been looking pretty closely at this lift for my garage. I have 10’ ceilings and the tallest/largest cars I’d regularly be working on are the wife’s Ford Escape and my Crown Vic. I could probably take advantage of something that lifts a bit taller like the C7000 or Twin Busch’s full rise lift but I really like the portability and price of this setup.

In the picture with your FJ, is that as high as the lift goes or could it go higher if you had a taller ceiling? At the pictured height can you roll around under the engine with any degree of comfort or are you still having to duck and watch your head? I’d like to be able to drop the trans out of my Crown Vic with some ease. Any new observations, love or hate since your last post?

Thanks!

The lift is fully extended in that picture. I wouldn't be able to go any higher because of a beam in my garage at 10'. I just did some routine maintenance over the weekend - oil change, driveline lubrication, and tire rotation, and it was fantastic for that purpose. I would agree that this type of lift is not meant for "serious" work like transmission swaps and the like, but I wouldn't have any issue whatsoever doing any exhaust, chassis, or differential work since I have almost complete access to the underbody (as long as you don't mind sitting to do the work). The underside of the engine bay is also completely accessible - I used it the week before last to do a drive belt swap from underneath the engine, and I was free to move/roll around on my seat as needed underneath the front of the vehicle. The rear of the vehicle is also completely unblocked/accessible, and easily serviced by roller seat.

This lift is perfect for my DIY needs - typical maintenance and most repair work. I didn't buy it to swap transmissions, but that's honestly the only thing I don't think I would be able to do on this lift - reason being that I chose to use the steel cross beams for better load dispersion due to the FJ's narrow lift support points. Other/lighter vehicles with lift points that fall more in the center of the platforms wouldn't require the cross beams, and would give you complete access to the underbody. Having said that, you still wouldn't be able to roll a transmission jack underneath because of the two bars on the floor that drive the platforms.

javyLSU · Sep 12, 2019

I also forgot to mention that one of the bigger reasons I went for this type lift was the ground clearance of my FJ. Because of tires and suspension, the frame of my FJ sits about 18" off the ground. A 21" max lift product like the Quick Jack won't even get my tires off the ground.

pbon · Sep 12, 2019

If the cross bars across the lift platform are optional, removing them would improve access. I did not know there were cross bars on the floor as well, but you could probably put boards down between and next to them so you could use a transmission jack and then I guess you could do everything.

javyLSU · Sep 12, 2019

^Correct, the support beams I used are optional. Even with the support beams, I haven't been blocked from doing anything under the FJ yet (then again, I haven't dropped a transmission yet haha). The only cross bars on the lift are on the floor, and stay on the floor as that's what works with the hydraulic rams to lift the platforms - there's nothing connecting the two platforms once they're off the ground.

Your idea of placing a board between the cross bars would work, as long as you're ok having to lift or roll the transmission jack over the bars with a vehicle already on the lift (since once of the cross bars moves as the lift goes up). Probably not something I'd be comfortable doing...

gearhead82 · Sep 12, 2019

Thanks for the response. I think the lifting points on my Crown Vic are fairly wide set even though it’s still a body-on-frame vehicle like your FJ. I could probably get away with no beams and use some thicker blocks to get a little more height but it still might not be the right lift for me.

My garage is a very wide 3 car but it’s sort of unique in that it has about an 8” raised “sidewalk” at the front of each bay spanning the entire width of the garage. The bays are only 17’ deep before getting to that raised portion making lift placement tricky. With something portable I could occasionally park a car sideways and use up 2 bays while still leaving my wife the required indoor parking spot.

I may end up getting a quote for some concrete work to lengthen 1 bay and go with either the MaxJax/C7000 or a floor plate 2 post.

javyLSU said:
The lift is fully extended in that picture. I wouldn't be able to go any higher because of a beam in my garage at 10'. I just did some routine maintenance over the weekend - oil change, driveline lubrication, and tire rotation, and it was fantastic for that purpose. I would agree that this type of lift is not meant for "serious" work like transmission swaps and the like, but I wouldn't have any issue whatsoever doing any exhaust, chassis, or differential work since I have almost complete access to the underbody (as long as you don't mind sitting to do the work). The underside of the engine bay is also completely accessible - I used it the week before last to do a drive belt swap from underneath the engine, and I was free to move/roll around on my seat as needed underneath the front of the vehicle. The rear of the vehicle is also completely unblocked/accessible, and easily serviced by roller seat.

This lift is perfect for my DIY needs - typical maintenance and most repair work. I didn't buy it to swap transmissions, but that's honestly the only thing I don't think I would be able to do on this lift - reason being that I chose to use the steel cross beams for better load dispersion due to the FJ's narrow lift support points. Other/lighter vehicles with lift points that fall more in the center of the platforms wouldn't require the cross beams, and would give you complete access to the underbody. Having said that, you still wouldn't be able to roll a transmission jack underneath because of the two bars on the floor that drive the platforms.

pbon · Sep 12, 2019

I installed a 2 post floor plate at my last house and liked it more than the 4 post I installed at my current house. My friend has a much lower ceiling and had a mid rise scissor that was not great for working on the car because of the space the lift apparatus took up under the middle of the car. He now has a Max Jax and likes it more. Both of us would like a 2 post top bar or no bar the most and a 2 post floor plate next. But we work on cars. Some people don’t do any major work and like the drive on and storage convenience of a 4 post.

Brand X · Sep 13, 2019

One issue about the air locks on a Atlas 7000 Quickbay. Non issue if you have a tiny compressor. Senco type..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQQZ2V2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I use a gantry with my scissor lift. It was handy to lift my 5000 plus Mill off of my trailer. Also a great Motorcycle lift/table etc. Very versatile things to have for many other type shop things.. Nothing netter to wheel things out of a truck bed or trailer. Makes a great table too.. I would buy mine again over any other lift for my shop.

javyLSU · Sep 13, 2019

Brand X said:
...

That’s a great point, I didn’t even mention how many times I’ve used my scissor lift to lower tool boxes and other large/heavy things from my truck to the garage floor. Very nice benefit that I hadn’t planned on.

One more thing - the Atlas version of this lift requires air to release the safety locks. The Twin Busch version does not require air to release the locks. [emoji106]

Twin Busch TW-S3-10E Scissor Lift

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