3/8" Pneu. Ratchet Repair Advice Needed

My Shopcraft ratchet stopped working (seized) and nothing seemed to work on freeing it up. Could not find any info on it, but a CP828 looks identical.

It was a challenge getting the threaded bushing out of the body, (parts #165 and 32). After trying wooden vise jaws, a strap wrench, the method that worked was my lathe like in the last two pictures. I could not find my copper sheeting so a strip of cloth backed sand paper was used to protect the threads of pt #165.

The next challenge was freeing up the motor. I used penetrating oils over a one week period, seems the last one, Rislone worked. I looked for a close fitting socket to fit the gear, picture #4, then rocked it back and forth with a speed handle. It is free now and works OK, but I'd still like to get the motor out for a proper cleaning.

Part #165 holds the motor in the body and with it removed, the motor just taps out by knocking the body down on the bench. At least that is what you tubers show.

Mine is locked in there...any ideas how to get it out?

threaded or pressed in?
maybe a bit of heat on the outer casing to relive any loctite and/or expand the housing so it slips out ?

Does Shopcraft offer a repair service? Your dealer should be able to connect you with their factory repair department.

KROIL...... Works wonders when other penetrating products don’t work.

Heat the housing with a propane torch and the motor should drop out. They normally seize from rusty bearings worn out vanes, or **** in the motor.

Once you get the motor out and apart be sure and check for scuffing on the motor end plates. A lot of those ratchets used aluminum plates with a coating, the end plates are shot once the coating gets scuffed through or galled.

I worked in tool repair shop in the 80's. We would get buckets of similar ratchets from the Snap On man with the instructions to make as many work as cheaply as possible. Back then you could rebuild the motor with about $10 worth of parts. We had tools with a spline that fit into the gearcase #165 with a steel bar welded to it. We could clamp the ratchet body vertically in a vise and twist the gearcase loose. We used superglue as threadlocker when putting the gearcase back in.

Reese said:

I worked in tool repair shop in the 80's.

Click to expand...

I have a couple that need repaired, let know your address so I can send them.

Thanks to all who replied. It looks like a bit of heat will solve the problem.

A special thanks to Reese, I was hoping to hear from someone who has been down that road.

Thanks to Chuckster too, KROIL has been added to my options.