Steve in Mi
Well-known member
Allow me to copy my post from elsewhere on this topic.
Shop Air Lines is frequently discussed so I decided to show a bit of my air line installation. I’m not saying this is the only way, nor am I saying it’s the best way to do it, I’m only offering this info as the way I did it. I have run all air lines in the walls with one exception which I will show. I used ¾” copper for the main line running 48' down the middle tucked up tight next to the wood plate between the 8" WF I-Beam and the second level 2 X 12 floor joists. There are three ¾” drops from this main line. One under the stairs to tie into the compressor and one at each end of the shop for exterior use, presumably for sand blasting at these locations outside. Off of the main line I "T"ed and reduced to ½” copper lines aimed up ~6 inches and then "T"ed again to make runs in both directions in the floor joist space to the outside wall spaces between the 2 X 6's at right angles to the main line. Once in an outside wall I "T"ed again feeding both the upper level and lower level at that point. (Sorry that this "T" is hardly visible, in the photo but it is just above the wall double plate). The drops from this point in the outside walls (there were some exceptions to this on interior walls) were rigid copper but because my upstairs sidewalls are angled (knee walls) I used soft copper for the risers to the second level wood shop and electric rooms. There were a couple of places where feeding soft copper lines worked best (Read, no room for making solder joints and it snakes thru places that were already enclosed, i.e. a blind 90. Remember that freshly annealed it feeds like electrical runs.) in the interior walls and at the East end wall so that is what I used. The branch lines were terminated with sweat 3/8" male fittings screwed into SS Eel's or Tee's. The “T” bracket was used were both sides of an interior wall fed from the same drop. The SS fittings were welded to 1/8" x 1" x 5" straps with mounting holes to secure them to 2 X 4's spanning between studs at the appropriate height. The SS fittings were bushed down to ¼” SS pipe that feeds thru the wall into the room. I have already shown the typical air outlet in an attachment in this thread where a ½” SS washer was added as a final to the opening. Okay, I thought it looked kind of nice too. I have 18 openings in all making air very accessible throughout the shop. I tested the system under pressure for a few days before enclosing any part of it. Guess what – not a single leak.
Photos; The main ¾” line above the beam, a riser and the slip joint for the final main line fit up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAirbranchriser.jpg
Two more risers, soft copper coming toward you (beginning of the bend is visible) where it makes a loop to feed down the wall on the right in the picture. A “T” is used on this drop to feed two rooms. The “T” riser on the right is ¾”, ¾”, ½” because it goes away form us, thru the 2 X 12 header at the top of the stairs and then drops into the space under the stairs where the compressor is located (later).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAiroverMR1.jpg
Next is an outside wall where the “T” is only slightly visible above the wall top plate. Soft copper goes up from the “T” and rigid down to the bracketed outlet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAirLineteewwalldrop.jpg
A shot from the bathroom shows another drop from the backside of the bracketed mount. This is over a bench area on the other side of the wall.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopBathPlumbing2.jpg
Here is one of those EXCEPTIONS I mentioned where air is fed down a post without first going thru a riser. The outlet on this post will probably be used more than any other with the possible exception of the outside ¾” line drops. A collection point that is trapped and filtered when necessary.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/AirLineatBeam.jpg
I would talk to the painter about sloppy work but I know he has some nice crown molding to hid the bo bo. I see I could have wiped the solder joints a little better too.
I'm adding a couple more items to round out the shop air installation (I hope). I have set up to use disconnects at each outlet and have several regulator/filter units (floaters) I can plug in where needed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/ShopAirtypical.jpg
3 Floaters shown. I have provided permenant mount regulators for items like the mister for milling machine etc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/PortableAirReg.jpg
BTW, the ball valves I use are the purge type so you do not have to disconnect under pressure.
Next a shot of where the system is/will be fed from under the stairs. I have a larger 10 HP compressor but it won't fit this space so I'm looking for a 5 HP commercial unit to replace the one in the photo. A drop pipe w/drain and flex connection will complete the air hookup. The open electrical box is wired for 40 Amp 240 V which will handle the 5 HP.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/Under_Stairs_1.jpg
The above compressor has been replaced by a 5 HP 2 stage IR 80 gal. unit which is now installed under the stairs. It is shown here with temperory wiring - a magnetic starter is to be added.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Posted photos/IRComptempwire1.jpg
You can see the 3/4" ball valve isolating the piping system from the compressor. I used a 6 foot long 3/4" hydraulic hose for vibration isolation. Foam rubber under the compressor mount also helps to reduce vibration transmitted to the floor. Another valved quick disconnect port was installed at the tank side discharge adding one more air outlet to the system. In this final picture is shown the tank drain brought out from under the tank for easier access to purge any water from the reservoir. I do have a refrigerated air dryer for the system but at this point I am not sure it will be needed. I have had the IR compressor for ~15 months but only got it moved into position and connected 3 weeks ago - I'm real slow sometimes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Posted photos/IRComptankdrain1.jpg
My hope is that this will perhaps help someone with their garage/shop air system installation.
__________________
Work safe, have fun, enjoy the sport.
Remember that a guy never has to come down out of the clouds if he keeps filling the valleys with peaks. Steve
Shop Air Lines is frequently discussed so I decided to show a bit of my air line installation. I’m not saying this is the only way, nor am I saying it’s the best way to do it, I’m only offering this info as the way I did it. I have run all air lines in the walls with one exception which I will show. I used ¾” copper for the main line running 48' down the middle tucked up tight next to the wood plate between the 8" WF I-Beam and the second level 2 X 12 floor joists. There are three ¾” drops from this main line. One under the stairs to tie into the compressor and one at each end of the shop for exterior use, presumably for sand blasting at these locations outside. Off of the main line I "T"ed and reduced to ½” copper lines aimed up ~6 inches and then "T"ed again to make runs in both directions in the floor joist space to the outside wall spaces between the 2 X 6's at right angles to the main line. Once in an outside wall I "T"ed again feeding both the upper level and lower level at that point. (Sorry that this "T" is hardly visible, in the photo but it is just above the wall double plate). The drops from this point in the outside walls (there were some exceptions to this on interior walls) were rigid copper but because my upstairs sidewalls are angled (knee walls) I used soft copper for the risers to the second level wood shop and electric rooms. There were a couple of places where feeding soft copper lines worked best (Read, no room for making solder joints and it snakes thru places that were already enclosed, i.e. a blind 90. Remember that freshly annealed it feeds like electrical runs.) in the interior walls and at the East end wall so that is what I used. The branch lines were terminated with sweat 3/8" male fittings screwed into SS Eel's or Tee's. The “T” bracket was used were both sides of an interior wall fed from the same drop. The SS fittings were welded to 1/8" x 1" x 5" straps with mounting holes to secure them to 2 X 4's spanning between studs at the appropriate height. The SS fittings were bushed down to ¼” SS pipe that feeds thru the wall into the room. I have already shown the typical air outlet in an attachment in this thread where a ½” SS washer was added as a final to the opening. Okay, I thought it looked kind of nice too. I have 18 openings in all making air very accessible throughout the shop. I tested the system under pressure for a few days before enclosing any part of it. Guess what – not a single leak.
Photos; The main ¾” line above the beam, a riser and the slip joint for the final main line fit up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAirbranchriser.jpg
Two more risers, soft copper coming toward you (beginning of the bend is visible) where it makes a loop to feed down the wall on the right in the picture. A “T” is used on this drop to feed two rooms. The “T” riser on the right is ¾”, ¾”, ½” because it goes away form us, thru the 2 X 12 header at the top of the stairs and then drops into the space under the stairs where the compressor is located (later).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAiroverMR1.jpg
Next is an outside wall where the “T” is only slightly visible above the wall top plate. Soft copper goes up from the “T” and rigid down to the bracketed outlet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopAirLineteewwalldrop.jpg
A shot from the bathroom shows another drop from the backside of the bracketed mount. This is over a bench area on the other side of the wall.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopBathPlumbing2.jpg
Here is one of those EXCEPTIONS I mentioned where air is fed down a post without first going thru a riser. The outlet on this post will probably be used more than any other with the possible exception of the outside ¾” line drops. A collection point that is trapped and filtered when necessary.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/AirLineatBeam.jpg
I would talk to the painter about sloppy work but I know he has some nice crown molding to hid the bo bo. I see I could have wiped the solder joints a little better too.
I'm adding a couple more items to round out the shop air installation (I hope). I have set up to use disconnects at each outlet and have several regulator/filter units (floaters) I can plug in where needed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/ShopAirtypical.jpg
3 Floaters shown. I have provided permenant mount regulators for items like the mister for milling machine etc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Lab Cabinets/PortableAirReg.jpg
BTW, the ball valves I use are the purge type so you do not have to disconnect under pressure.
Next a shot of where the system is/will be fed from under the stairs. I have a larger 10 HP compressor but it won't fit this space so I'm looking for a 5 HP commercial unit to replace the one in the photo. A drop pipe w/drain and flex connection will complete the air hookup. The open electrical box is wired for 40 Amp 240 V which will handle the 5 HP.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/Under_Stairs_1.jpg
The above compressor has been replaced by a 5 HP 2 stage IR 80 gal. unit which is now installed under the stairs. It is shown here with temperory wiring - a magnetic starter is to be added.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Posted photos/IRComptempwire1.jpg
You can see the 3/4" ball valve isolating the piping system from the compressor. I used a 6 foot long 3/4" hydraulic hose for vibration isolation. Foam rubber under the compressor mount also helps to reduce vibration transmitted to the floor. Another valved quick disconnect port was installed at the tank side discharge adding one more air outlet to the system. In this final picture is shown the tank drain brought out from under the tank for easier access to purge any water from the reservoir. I do have a refrigerated air dryer for the system but at this point I am not sure it will be needed. I have had the IR compressor for ~15 months but only got it moved into position and connected 3 weeks ago - I'm real slow sometimes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Posted photos/IRComptankdrain1.jpg
My hope is that this will perhaps help someone with their garage/shop air system installation.
__________________
Work safe, have fun, enjoy the sport.
Remember that a guy never has to come down out of the clouds if he keeps filling the valleys with peaks. Steve
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