Newbie with lift questions

fatfenders · Oct 25, 2017

New boy (age 71) to both this forum and 2 post lift ownership/usage. Never have had a 2 post lift before but I recently installed a Dannmar MX-6. The installation went really well except it took me forever, but it's in now and functioning.

Background for the questions: I'm a little gun shy because... last year I had a friend who dropped a car, seriously dropped, off of his lift. I'm sure that a combo of factors contributed to the accident. He has a top quality full-size 2 post and been using it for years in his transmission business with great success. Accidents happen I guess, but I'd like to NOT have it happen to me.

The only usage my new lift will see is on 20's thru 40's Fords. From 1932 thru 1948 these cars have a flat platform frame in the central-to-rear frame area (suitable for picking) BUT an upswept frame rail in the front.

Questions: 1. how suitable are the round OEM pucks for lifting on the upswept (8.5 degrees) front frame rails? I have material to make extensions that I can build to any angle I choose. and 2. what would be the longest (tallest) extension that I can safely use? To get maximum lift the extensions need to be near the pick points on the frame rails.

Most of these cars weigh 2300-3000 lbs. The car in the pics weighed 2940 or thereabouts from the factory. I posted some pics that are hopefully not too confusing.

Thanks for your consideration!

lakeroadster · Oct 25, 2017

Welcome!

Old Fords.. sweet.

I'm not a fan of those hockey puck lift arm ends. I prefer the flip up lift arm ends... they have small ears that prevent whatever your lifting from sliding off.

Are these available for your lift?

If not I see Greg Smith and Northern Tool has some adapters that you may be interested in: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Flip-up-Adapter-Set-Each
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MI-qT5kPyM1wIVWJN-Ch3A8wqFEAQYASABEgJD0vD_BwE

fatfenders · Oct 25, 2017

Thanks! Those adapters look great. Assuming maybe 3" and 6" extension flip-ups. I'll take a look at the links you posted.

The pockets on my list arms into which any extension fits is 1 and 3/8 inches.

I can make saddle-style adapters to any length (height) and place the saddles at an angle to correspond to the frame rail sweep. I've got some rubber material for a pad on the lifting surface. Just jonesing for easy....

fatfenders · Oct 25, 2017

I see that the flip style adapters can get me a total of 9" of extension. I'll call tomorrow and check on the spud diameter. Looking really handy! Thanks

brownbagg · Oct 25, 2017

just but them already made

RWorth · Oct 26, 2017

I think I like these better, from that same site. I may just order them, have to measure my pins. These are 1-3/8

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Frame-Adapters-1-3-8-Peg

jloehlein · Oct 26, 2017

That upswept frame would make me really nervous. I agree that different adapters would help, but some weight of the car is still going to be trying to push it off the lift - either by sliding it backwards or by spreading the arms apart. If there was a place on the front portion of the frame that you could bolt a wedge that would make a flat spot for the arm to sit, I would do that.

It's been a long time since I've done any physics, but if you've got 1000lbs on each front lift arm at ~9 degree angle, I think there is roughly 100lbs of force trying to push the front lift arm forward (or the car backwards). If that's wrong, hopefully someone can post up the correct math.

lakeroadster · Oct 26, 2017

jloehlein said:
That upswept frame would make me really nervous....

Agreed, but to a point. That's where the piece of rubber comes into play. It increases the friction between the frame and the lift arm. If it was 30 degrees.. yeah that's scary. but 9 degrees... no worries.

If the user does the ALI recommended shake test when the vehicle tires are just off the floor, that tells the true story of how stable the vehicle is on the lift.

The other advantage of the flip up ends are for vehicles that need lifted at the leaf spring perches, such as the Camaro shown in the photo below.

Bruce Amacker · Oct 26, 2017

If it were a car I owned and was lifting regularly I'd weld a horizontal pad onto the frame rails to accept the lift pad. Another possibility is a peg hole in the rail that accepts a pin on the pad to prevent sliding. The angle you speak of concerns (scares?) me, I've had cars slip sideways on wet days with less angle than that. I'm not sure what your framerail is coated with, but if it's rustproofing that will allow the pad to creep/slip over time, and if it's Por that will have a slippery surface. IMO, there's no way to safely rack a framerail with a 9* angle.

Let us know what you decide on, and good luck!

Falcon67 · Oct 26, 2017

I use the rubber pads but the cars lifted here either have frames or use subframe connectors. As noted, I place carefully, lift until tires are just clear or on the first lock, then shack that sucker. Also remember that lifting with all the parts installed is one thing, engine or rear end out makes it completely different.

lakeroadster · Oct 26, 2017

Falcon67 said:
Also remember that lifting with all the parts installed is one thing, engine or rear end out makes it completely different.

Excellent point.... A smart man learns from his own mistakes, a wise man learns from the mistakes of others. :thumbup:

When I was building my '65 short bed pickup I had the bed removed and was installing some new rear coil springs and had the truck up on my lift.

I used my tall jack stands to support the rear axle. Once I removed the rear shocks and coil springs the full weight of the rear axle was then on the jack stands and no longer hanging from the truck frame.

I noticed I could stand behind the truck, grab the frame and lift it off of the rear 2-post lift arms. :wtf:

If the truck had been a few inches more forward on the arms... it's possible it could have nosed over and done a face plant on the slab.

And to this point.. some inexpensive ratchet straps, placed around the lift arm / frame, and cinched down, at each arm, could save a lot of heartache and grief in these situations.

Orange Crate

fatfenders · Oct 28, 2017

lakeroadster said:
Welcome!

Old Fords.. sweet.

I'm not a fan of those hockey puck lift arm ends. I prefer the flip up lift arm ends... they have small ears that prevent whatever your lifting from sliding off.

Are these available for your lift?

If not I see Greg Smith and Northern Tool has some adapters that you may be interested in: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Flip-up-Adapter-Set-Each
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MI-qT5kPyM1wIVWJN-Ch3A8wqFEAQYASABEgJD0vD_BwE

Called Greg Smith...only available in 1 1/2". Too bad because the look really versatile.

So I went ahead with my original plan. Finished extensions seem to work well.

Ign · Oct 28, 2017

Yep custom is the way to go here.

I had a similar issue on my OBS CCSB PSD and just welded flat lands to the framerail at the curve.

I’ve also made extra long extensions for my BP to accommodate the disparity between height of the frame at the front and the rear (again OBS Fords). I exceeded BP’s alleged safe height for extensions by 1 or 2”. I don’t care

Ign · Oct 28, 2017

Also since you’re paranoid you can just run a chain around the extensions and between the front arms. Similar concept to X’ing safety chains on a trailer - worst case the vehicle falls into a chain cradle.

You could even weld some slip hooks to your arms for faster/easier placement of a chain.

Ign · Oct 28, 2017

Fore is as high as BP says you should go, aft is one of my custom ones.

At the time I was working at a shop where we did a ton of stainless shafting (for Frito Lay of all things). But anything this short was considered scrap and I could take as much as I wanted. So I’ve got two custom 9.5” extensions built from solid 304SS LOL, 2” OD

fatfenders · Oct 28, 2017

Ign said:
Fore is as high as BP says you should go, aft is one of my custom ones.

At the time I was working at a shop where we did a ton of stainless shafting (for Frito Lay of all things). But anything this short was considered scrap and I could take as much as I wanted. So I’ve got two custom 9.5” extensions built from solid 304SS LOL, 2” OD

Those look really nice. Free material is always nice to have access to; right price too.

Realized I am uncertain of sliding around on the hockey puck pads only. On a uni-body with a pinch weld seam to hook into I can see that. Feeling much better about the u-channel frame gizmos. Have a car part way up overnight to set the glue between the u-channels and the rubber pads I cut out of an old pickup bed mat....seems real solid up on the lift. Thanks

bad_idea · Oct 28, 2017

Sounds like you got it sorted out. Now on to more pressing questions. What is that vehicle in your Avatar? Looks like the back end of a second gen Firebird.

lakeroadster · Oct 28, 2017

fatfenders said:
Called Greg Smith...only available in 1 1/2". Too bad because the look really versatile.

So I went ahead with my original plan. Finished extensions seem to work well.

Nicely done :thumbup:

fatfenders · Oct 28, 2017

bad_idea said:
Sounds like you got it sorted out. Now on to more pressing questions. What is that vehicle in your Avatar? Looks like the back end of a second gen Firebird.

Yes...grafted onto a 1946-48 Ford sedan. Not photoshopped. Also had a big sunroof installed. I took the picture at the NSRA Nats East in York, PA circa 1994-5. Whoever built the car was serious about it...body and paint were VERY nice; full gray tweed interior etc. Spent some $ on it.

lakeroadster · Oct 28, 2017

A clear case of "because you can... doesn't mean you should"

bad_idea · Oct 28, 2017

Cocaine is a helluva drug.

Newbie with lift questions

Member

Attachments

Well-known member

Member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member