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Building a 24x40 progress pics, and I have questions!

jaimwolfe

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Sep 13, 2010
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Osceola, IN
My dad and I are building a 24x40 pole barn on a lot that he bought across from his house in lower Michigan, and I thought I would post some progress pics. I also have some questions that I have been researching, and was hoping I could get some pointers from all of the experts here.

Let me explain the trees also. My dad wanted a wooded lot, and wanted to take down as few trees as possible. I would have taken down more, but it's his barn, and he is the boss.

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We are planning on 10'6" inside wall height from top of concrete to bottom of trusses. We are doing a 12" overhang on all sides, and have 6/12 pitch trusses. We are installing one steel entry door, and one 18x9 overhead door. Next step is to put all of the 2x4's on the trusses, then the roof (after i find out the best insulation to stop condensation). The local pole barn place talked of some accordion style folded up product that you spread out, but I haven't learned much about it yet.

Ok, long enough post, I will save my questions for later. Comments / advice welcomed!
 

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jaimwolfe

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Sep 13, 2010
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First Question: Should I put the top of the skirt boards (2x10s) exactly at the level I want the top of the concrete to be (which is 10'6" below the trusses). One concrete guy said to do it this way, and I want to make sure it is correct.

He also recommended just doing 1 solid pour, with no expansion joints or cuts or drains, since there will never be water run to this barn. He said he would bring in probably 30 yards of sand, and build the level up to about 4" from the top of the skirt boards, and then water the **** out of it with a sprinkler for 4 or 5 days. The ground was built up a little in the pictures, and as of now the ground at the front of the barn is about 8 to 10 inches lower than the back (it slopes forward).
 
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jaimwolfe

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Osceola, IN
Any ideas from anyone on if I should put the top of the Skirt boards at the level I want the concrete floor poured to?

Thanks!
 

gabeancounter

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east bumble
Nice looking barn/ garage. Yes, that would seem correct. Not sure I understand using sand instead of 57 stone? 57 stone has a compaction % of 95 just falling off the truck. Really concerned with the lose dirt and getting that compacted before either method.

You guys bulding the barn or subs? How did you get the trusses up top? Crane?
 

trbomax

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starvation lake,mi.
For the insulation wrap,do a search for "polar insulation wrap".Its 3/8' withs perf foil on one side and perf transparent plastic on the other. Abolutely stops any condensation.

I would use a 3 board skirt setup with t&g 2x6 treated.The bottom board would be located 2" below finished concrete top surface,then 2 more on top of that. Seal the t&g with sub floor adhesive that will tack to wet wood. Have a couple guys standing on the top board edge when you nail them up so that a good squeeze is obtained with the adhesive.This will create a 6" high dam between the outside and your floor,eliminateing and water or critter seepage at grade level. The concrete guy is going to set his grade and pour with w laser anyway,he does not really even want a "flush" form board

Sprinkleing the hell out of sand is not a good idea. It will hold too much water at some point and become spongy,When this happens,it takes a long time for it to loose that water and when it does,it shrinks. Just get a vibrateing compactor and go over it about 10 times in different directions.You will be suprised to see that it will compact 2 -4 ".Put down the plastic,double lap the seams and pull it up the inside of the skirt boards,staple it at a point below finished level and then cut off the excess at the TOP of the skirt board,this protects it from splash.

edit) those trees are way too close to the building for my comfort! One blowdown and you will be building it all over!
 
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jaimwolfe

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Thanks Gabeancounter, No subs (other than the concrete probably). We are doing it ourselves, just my dad, brother, uncle and I. We put the trusses up ourselves by hand, just lifting them up (upside down) and then flipping them with a 16' Y push stick/fork. It was surprisingly easier and faster than I had thought it would be. 4 of us put all 11 up in about 6 hours.

The local pole barn building store is selling us all of our parts / lumber / metal / doors, and they sent us (old treated- supposedly won't eat metal) 2x10's for the skirt boards, so I will probably have to go with those. One guy who came out suggested the sand, but it does seem like rock would be better. I may just let the concrete company that we hire for the floor tell me how they want things done.
 
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jaimwolfe

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Osceola, IN
I also agree that the trees are a little close, but I guess if it gets smashed someday, it will just be another fun project to complete, and insurance can foot the bill.
 

RPH

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Where in Michigan? I am about to start a 30' x 72' pole barn and I live in Sanalac County. Code here on the skirt boards state 5" must be above the finished floor. Don't ask why, it just the way it is. Had to change my order to include 2 x 10 skirt boards ( that's code too!) and left the 2 x 8 to sit on top of them. Sand is common here for grade work, I just had over 200 cubic yards delivered and leveled.
 
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jaimwolfe

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Sep 13, 2010
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Osceola, IN
We're in Silver Creek Township (Cass County), near Dowagiac Michigan (about 25 minutes east of St. Joe/Benton Harbor). I am glad to hear that sand is common here for grade work. I will have to call to find out what the code is for where the skirt boards are placed.

Hopefully it won't take any where near that much sand to level out my barn floor! Good luck with your barn, and post pictures so we can watch.

Thanks!
Jaim
 
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