To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Walker 867 Floor Jack Restoration

kc-steve

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
4,240
Location
Kansas City
Hi all;

Ever since my first full-time job in the early 1970s at an auto parts store I wanted to own a Walker service jack but always had other things more important to buy. And then recently I was fortunate enough to find TWO 867 Walker floor jacks for sale and didn't hesitate to purchase them both for $50 total. Thanks to Hiball, we determined these were made around the late 1940s or early 1950s.

It is nice to be able to compare the 2 jacks during this process. It seems some welding was done on some parts but also see that it is on both so I am guessing that is factory welding?

Last weekend I finally had a chance to toss one on my welding table to take it apart. I was a little surprised to find either studs or rivets holding it together. So I am wondering if I need to cut the rivets or studs in order to get the caster housings apart, among other things?

And I also guess that the slotted screws in the caster housing will have to be drilled out?

BTW, I decided to start with the jack that needed the work the most in case it is trash, I can then either restore it or use it for parts on the next one. :)

This jack didn't work at all while the other was in use in a body shop downtown and just leaks a little fluid. When this one is done I'll then start the second jack restoration.

Thanks,
Steve
 

Attachments

  • 1001.jpg
    1001.jpg
    122.4 KB · Views: 315
  • 1003.jpg
    1003.jpg
    125.4 KB · Views: 270
  • 1004.jpg
    1004.jpg
    117.9 KB · Views: 241
  • 1005.jpg
    1005.jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 224
  • 1006.jpg
    1006.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 223
  • 1007.jpg
    1007.jpg
    139.9 KB · Views: 250
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bungy42

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
73
Location
Tinkhamtown, MA
I have a pair of these as well that I picked up a few years ago for $15. Actually, one of mine might be a 767, but I'm not sure. Anyway, the screws in the casters will come out. I used a hand impact driver when I took mine apart, and it worked well. Also, I think I might have cut the studs holding the two smaller arms to the side plates, and then turned down some new ones with threads as replacements.

There's almost no such things as "trash" when it comes to these. They hydraulics are easy to repair, and anything mechanical can be fabricated fairly easily. Yours seems to be in nice shape compared to the basket cases that I started with. Great find!
 
OP
K

kc-steve

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
4,240
Location
Kansas City
Thanks guys! I'll try to keep it interesting. And thanks for the tip "bungy42." It has been years (20+) since I used my hand impact driver and had even forgot I had one to use. So I'll give that a try and post up the progress as I go.

:beer:

Steve
 

Bull

Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
16,189
Location
MA
Great project. I like your work table, too!

bungy, are you an adept fabricator for missing jack components?
 
OP
K

kc-steve

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
4,240
Location
Kansas City
Great project. I like your work table, too!

bungy, are you an adept fabricator for missing jack components?

Thanks Bull. That table is the same one I was telling you about the great casters I bought at Graingers. Did you ever buy those yet?

Here's a couple more photos of the table, without the chop saw attachment.

Steve
 

Attachments

  • 044.jpg
    044.jpg
    119.9 KB · Views: 119
  • 041.jpg
    041.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 142

Bull

Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
16,189
Location
MA
Thanks Bull. That table is the same one I was telling you about the great casters I bought at Graingers. Did you ever buy those yet?

Here's a couple more photos of the table, without the chop saw attachment.

Steve

I remembered that you posted it in my previous thread. It's really nice.

I ended up finding some great deals on casters on eBay. It pays to be OCD about searching for deals, as I can often find ways to save money without compromising on quality.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
K

kc-steve

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
4,240
Location
Kansas City
The rain seems to have cleared long enough to pull this project out of the garage again and move forward, . . . a little.

Thanks to bungy42's suggestion of using a hand impact driver, I managed to break that slotted screw loose. Of the 2 impact drivers I found in my tool collection, the old KD driver seemed to work the best. The other was a 1980s Japanese driver which imprinted a rather large blood blister on the palm of my hand. :)

Be careful not to lose any ball bearings when the caster gets pulled out. But I'll likely go to a hardware and buy new ones anyway.

I'm still trying to get those caster housings off. I hate to grind through the pegs/studs/rivets holding those as well as most of the jack together, but it looks like that is what is called for at this point.

Feel free for intervention here, anyone . . . Bueller, Bueller . . . . :)

Thanks,
Steve
 

Attachments

  • 1008.jpg
    1008.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 124
  • 1009.jpg
    1009.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 118

Hiball

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
14,027
Location
Missery
I would NOT grind those studs off... Take the center pivot pin nuts off along with the front wheels and the frame will be in to pieces. Also no need to detach the ladder arms from the inner frame rails.
 
OP
K

kc-steve

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
4,240
Location
Kansas City
I would NOT grind those studs off... Take the center pivot pin nuts off along with the front wheels and the frame will be in to pieces. Also no need to detach the ladder arms from the inner frame rails.

Thanks Hiball, glad I didn't cut those. :bounce:

In the photo below it is hard to tell, but I do have the center nuts as well as the front wheels off the front axle. You can't see it in this photo but the front axle is welded to both sides of the frame, . . . on BOTH jacks. I was thinking MAYBE that was factory even they are rather sloppy welds, maybe since they both came from the same shop it was something someone did in the past. I really don't know.

So then do I need to cut through those welds on the front axle?

And so I guess you are also saying not to try and remove the cast iron caster housings as well?

Thanks,
Steve
 

Attachments

  • 1010.jpg
    1010.jpg
    88.9 KB · Views: 97

Hiball

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
14,027
Location
Missery
The welds near the back are for the inner ladder arms, have you looked at how they connect to the saddle or the inner frame rail to see if they will even come apart? Sometimes they are peened in place. If you can get them apart, I suspect you best option would be to break the welds at the front wheels.
 

Willy-C

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
46
Location
Hooksett, NH
Do you guys need pics of what the tank nut removal/install tool look like....??

I have a bunch of odd sizes that fit those old tanks from the walkers
 

_CY_

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Messages
61
yes ... please... pic's would be nice

Do you guys need pics of what the tank nut removal/install tool look like....??

I have a bunch of odd sizes that fit those old tanks from the walkers
 

ddivem121

New member
Joined
Apr 14, 2023
Messages
1
I have a Walker 867. Thing works pretty well. Want to buff it all down and give it a paint job. Anyone know the lifting capacity on these? And anyone know where I could get a new tag/plate for it?
 

Attachments

  • 20230413_134704.jpg
    20230413_134704.jpg
    914.7 KB · Views: 25
  • 20230414_133714.jpg
    20230414_133714.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 25
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom