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Attic ventilation question

pauls340

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I have 9 or10 roof box vents on the backside of the house (1240 sqft), we have a gable fan at one end and is set at 100 degrees. It does a very poor job removing the hot air in the attic. I was told the roof vents are useless since the fan only ***** air from the first two or three vents closes to the fan. He told me to cut 12" square pieces of plywood and cover those vent holes up so the gable fan pulls air thru the attic...it makes sense, what say you?
 
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Racer_X

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Hmm... I've always heard you shouldn't combine roof vents and gable vents. I believe it causes the air to swirl around instead of flowing out.
 

v7guy

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I was under the same impression.
The fans would have to move enough air to create a small vacuum in the attic to make all the vents work. I have trouble believing a typical exhaust fan will do the job... it would need to move a ton of air (cfm wise).

there either needs to be a ridge vent or a couple gable vents.

just my rough, uneducated opinion.


There are a lot more guys here more qualified to give specific info and they are going to want a lot more specifics.
 

Deltarat

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I have 3 gable vents and soffit vents, with one exhaust fan in one gable. The fan was out last summer and the air could hardly keep up. I replaced the fan this spring and it has lowered the house temps by about 10* and the unit can cycle on and off. This fall I am going to add a fan in another gable.
 

csp

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The gable fan shouldn't be sucking air from the roof vents. It should be sucking air from soffit vents. That's why you don't mix gable and roof vents.
 

yellowdartdave

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The gable fan shouldn't be sucking air from the roof vents. It should be sucking air from soffit vents. That's why you don't mix gable and roof vents.


Warm air rises.

Roof vents are made to exhaust hot air from the top of the attic.

Try reversing the fan.
 

csp

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Not sure why you quoted me as I'm pretty much saying the same thing in regards to warm air rising.

Gable vents are usually almost as high as roof vents. They aren't a substitute for soffit intake ventilation.
 
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kbs2244

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Make sure your soffit vents are not blocked.
Dirt, paint, ceiling insulation, etc.

You cannot exhaust the air without it being replaced.
 

wssix99

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You are 100% correct. With a gable fan, you'll want the air sucked in at the opposing gable. Soffit vents are good if your powered fans are mounted high up by the ridge or if you install ridge vents.
 

ShopRat1

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Power gable vents and ridge vents do not work very efficient together. Scrap the power gable vent and install as long of ridge vent as possible. The key to making a ridge vent efficient is to have plenty of soffit vents. Do you have individual soffit vents or does your soffit have continuous vent holes (vented hardi soffit panel)? If you have indivdual vents I would bet you don't enough vents to let a sufficient amount of air in. The next thing you need to do is check and make sure the insulation is not blocking the soffit vents. If you have blown insulation it is a recommended you use ventilation channel. This is a panel that goes between the rafters and allows the air entering the soffit to flow unobstructed to the ridge vent. If you used batt type insulation make the insulation is not covering soffit vent.

Jeff
 

Gary S

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I have 3 gable vents and soffit vents, with one exhaust fan in one gable. The fan was out last summer and the air could hardly keep up. I replaced the fan this spring and it has lowered the house temps by about 10* and the unit can cycle on and off. This fall I am going to add a fan in another gable.

Same here. I have gable vents and soffit vents. I also have a single powered exhaust fan. It works really well. When my fan motor died, it made a big difference. A cheap new motor put things back on track for me.
Maybe the ideal situation isn't to have both kind of vents, but it works well for me too.
 

Bruce4310TX

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most homes only have enough soffit vents to satisfy code you cant have too many sofit vents but you also need roof vents or gable vent or continous ridge vents.. Hot air rises
 

NUTTSGT

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I'm sure others with more knowledge will chime in. A guy on Yellowbullet talked about this subject, he went into (what I felt was great detail). If I remember correctly, the box roof vents work well with gable vents and ridge vents were designed to be used with soffit vents.

On the house garage, I had a ridge vent and one gable vent, it didn't work the greatest. After a few years, I took out every third piece of soffit and replaced it with some vented soffit (homemade from solid soffit). Night and day difference.

I'll see if I can find the guys post.
 

NUTTSGT

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Found it, the thread was on attic fans. Taken from Yellowbullet compliments of IHI.

Being a life long general contractor, i'll try to keep this short winded LOL!!



proper ventilation is key. The attic space should NEVER be anything warmer/cooler than the outside ambient air temperature...that is how you know your venitlation system is working properly. It will also GREATLY extend the life of your roof. Shingles today are mostly fiberglass, they are not nearly as durable as the older asphalt shingles, so anything you can do to help them last longer is a huge financial plus; esspecially with the huge price increases roofing materials have seen in the last 4 yrs.



1st. Attic insulation, do you have the proper amount? Most of it settles over time if they did blow in, dropping the R value. I always shoot for an R60 in attics, R49 is code, but when we blow an R60 I know it's overkill, and I also know if for some reason it settles, it will settle into nothing less than R49



2nd biggest mistake people make is mismatching intake/exhaust systems. They will have gable vents on the end of the house, and then installed ridge vent. They will use ridge vent in addition to "box vents/turtle vents" whatever you want to call them. They will install ridgevent and not realize that the area between the outside wall top plate and bottom side of the roof deck is blocked off with insulation since back in the day the thought was "you dont want any air getting into the attic"...which we now know is false, you was air circulation to try and keep the attic at the same temperature as outside air. SO, you have to pick one ventilation style and run with it, if you do ridgevent...you HAVE to do soffit vents to get the air coming into the attic and force the hot air up and out the ridge vent. Having other forms of venting screws that flow all up and it wont work.



With any venting, you want at LEAST 1sqft of venting per 300sqft of attic space....energy star mandates 1sq/ft of vent per 150sqft of attic space, and that is what we shoot for. In laymans terms, the typical box vent is 1sqft of venting, so if you have a standard 1200sqft ranch, you will need 8 of these roof vents in order to allow enough hot air out.



That is why ridge vent is so popluar because it can easily vent a big attic, but you HAVE to have soffit venting to allow the fresh air in to expell the old stale air out.



3. Are you talking a whole house fan that you can open and shut, these allow you to open your windows at night, turn the whole house fan on and pull cool night air inside. then come morning before you leave for work, you shut the house up, and if it's insulated properly, it will remain nice and cool when you get home....along the same lines as most garage when you walk into them on a hot day, if your the first person in the building it's very cool inside.



4. if your talking JUST an attic fan, I dont even think they make them anymore that are not controlled by an internal thermostat you can set, so that way it monitors and corrects the attic space as needed all by itself. Downfall to attic fans, maintainence. Your introducing an electric motor, which is obviously a wear item, so you may end up replacing the motor a few times in the life of your home....and cost to wire it up, install, etc...



I'm personally a big proponent of allowing physics to vent attic spaces, poly chutes wont ever wear out. There is work involved retro fitting proper venting into older homes, but once it's done it can help reduce utility bills. One customer I remember saved every bill, we did the siding, windows, roof, and addressed a seriously lacking ventilation issue in his house. He called that fall, and doing all that we did literaly dropped his summer utility bills 50%, he was stunned, and thought it was a fluke, but after the summer season, all the small bills, he realized I was'nt just selling him stuff to make money, I was selling him a system to make their home and life better, which reflects good on me



Just like roofs, I will NOT sell a roof unless I can assess and fix any venting issues, and I'm always $1-2000 higher than the typical hack roofers that wanna slap up shingles and go, but I dont beleive in half assed jobs, and I get pissed with these hack roofers nowadays charging what they do for a roof, and then in 5-8 yrs the roof starts to fall apart again, all because they're baking them to death....and, some of it goes back to the homeowner too being cheap, many say they cant afford my bid, and yet, they always find the money to completely redo the roof 8-10yrs later after they used the cheaper roofing company.
 
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