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Welding Table

MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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79
I'm building a new welding table next week, material comes in on monday. Built with 1.5 sq .060 wall and 1.5x2.5 rect .120 wall. The top is 48"x36"x3/8". I'm going to add some slots to allow for the use of t-slot clamps (think milling machine) as well. I'll post up some progress pics when I can, here are some screen caps of the CAD model. And yes, there will be levelers on the bottom of the legs

ScreenShot1465.jpg


ScreenShot1464.jpg
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
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Central Maine
Looks good. You are going to love the slots. I did the same thing and bought the Miller clamps. They work great and do double duty on my drill press.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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Should be thick enough to build a Emperor Norton bicycle frame, hopefully.

What size are the slots for the miller clamps?
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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Solidworks says about 250lbs. The plate alone is close to 180.

Thanks for the Dimensions

Oh yea, got a quote for the material, here's the breakdown
2x20' 1.5x1.5x.060 $38.80
1x20' 1.5x2.5x.120 $47.40
36x48x3/8 $174.41
plus tax, casters, levelers, clamps
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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Made a bunch of progress over the weekend. Still need to add more hanger/hooks, etc. I haven't welded the top to the frame yet, waiting until after powdercoating for that. What am I missing?

291897_10150281995962092_737517091_7687925_38592_nWeldBench.jpg
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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79
I've got 4 3/4" bolts, one in each corner to level the table if thats what you mean
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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w/o the CNC laser work. That's a perk of working at a manufacturing shop :)
 

darkk

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Dec 24, 2009
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Willimantic, Ct.
waiting until after powdercoating. What am missing?

Why not weld some *L* brackets on the table top and drill some holes in the upper legs on the table and install *threaded nut-serts* in the holes. Then get the table powder coated. That way you won't damage the finish welding the top to the table...
 
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z28snksknr

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Jul 8, 2009
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Turnersville, NJ
Looks a lot like the table I started last year that I never finished, or at least what it would have looked like if I HAD finished it. I would add another support spanning the width of the top (intersecting your support running the depth. Anything to keep the top from moving over time and straying from flat and level.

Nice design work btw.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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Thanks

"Why not weld some *L* brackets on the table top and drill some holes in the upper legs on the table"
That's the one thing I haven't decided on. Add brackets to the top and drill some holes in the frame, or weld top directly to frame? hmmmm...
 

isaac338

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Aug 4, 2007
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Location
Halifax, NS, Canada
Thanks

"Why not weld some *L* brackets on the table top and drill some holes in the upper legs on the table"
That's the one thing I haven't decided on. Add brackets to the top and drill some holes in the frame, or weld top directly to frame? hmmmm...

Well, eventually you're gonna have that top tacked to and beat on enough to warrant considering a replacement, and it's gonna be a lot easier to unbolt the old top than to cut welds!
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
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1,080
Location
AZ
Nice bench.

I have a basic table I built 20 years ago and my needs have changed.

I'll be building two tables that can be tied together if needed.

Anyway, on my original, I welded angle on the bottom of the top. The angle would flush up against the top frame. I drilled and bolted the top to the frame.

My two new tables will have the same bolted / removable tops.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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The welded angle sounds pretty reasonable. Still torn between welded or bolted.

The laser cutting was free because I work there! ;-)
 
Joined
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The welded angle sounds pretty reasonable. Still torn between welded or bolted.

The laser cutting was free because I work there! ;-)

My current table that has the top bolted is very solid.

The main advantage is that it can be removed, altered, changed out, etc if needed without cutting or grinding off welds.

Plus, when it comes to time to move it, it removes easily making it more manageable.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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79
Made some more progress this weekend on both the welding cart and table. Basically added a bunch of hooks, reinforcement bars, and wheels to the cart.

2011-08-21_20-36-00_528.jpg


and added a hanger for the torch.
2011-08-21_20-38-25_376.jpg
 

brianpgriset

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Sep 29, 2006
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1,038
Location
Beaumont, TX
You like that Diversion 180? I've had a heck of a time deciding between a 200dx (I struggle spending $3600 for a shade tree weldor), synchro wave 200 (good power better cost but big and lots of power needed) and that diversion (fewer amps, no stick capabilities). I am honestly leaning for the synchrowve since I am less worried about the machine breaking since its old transformer technology and the resale is pretty good if I ever did want to upgrade.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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I love the diversion 180. It does just about everything I need it to do on 120V and it does not take up a lot of space. I'll post a pic once I can get it uploaded.
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
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79
Here are a few pics of the table in use making a back rack for my truck. Made of 2" angle, and 1.5" tube

2012-09-03_20-38-27_648.jpg

2012-09-03_20-39-09_273.jpg

Untitled.jpg
 
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MFGENG

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Jul 21, 2011
Messages
79
I've got one in the middle on the front. I'm thinking of adding another on the camera side too. I figure I would leave it unpainted for a year or so until I get it all sorted out.

The best thing I added was a hook to hold a grinder. Keeps it out of the way and off the table top. And very handy for quick access.
 

mattng351

New member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
4
MFGENG, I was wondering if you had the DXF file for the top? I tried to sent you a PM but it doesn't work. Let me know. Thanks Matt
 

BellyUpFish

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Jun 24, 2012
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2,942
Location
Alabama
Very nice table..

I'd like to one about 28x48" kinda like this:
 

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