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Mass Review of Many Wright Tools

williaty

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Joined
May 16, 2010
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829
A few years ago, I started working on my own cars. Then I started working on friends' cars. Then I started working on people's cars for money under the table. Finally, I decided to get serious, learn some things, and open my own shop. So these tools are being used in the context of a full-time, professional, independent Subaru-specialty shop. The big transition I've been going through on the tool front is that the tools that I bought as an amateur using them once or twice a year are dying left and right as I use them once or twice an hour. It became very obvious that I needed to start upgrading my hard-line tools.

Obviously, my first thought was the tool trucks. There's no Matco truck in my area. The one that works a block south of me isn't willing to come up here. There's no MAC or Cornwell trucks around here at all. I've tried multiple times to get one of the many local Snap-On trucks in here but every one of them has told me that, as single mechanic at a shop, I'm not worth their time. That means their tools aren't worth the money since, without the on-site sales, service, and warranty, tool truck tools are just stupidly overpriced.

That lead me to try to investigate what the high-quality non-tool-truck options were. To my delight, there were a number of companies selling top-quality tools at much less than tool-truck prices since there was no tool truck to deal with. Wright was among those companies I found. They seemed to have most of what I wanted, were VERY reasonably priced, and had a good reputation.

So I tool the plunge, slapped the credit card down on the table, and ordered tools with a total sticker price that would feed an African nation for a year. Definitely a ****-pucker moment. Here's the result...


Tool 1: 1/2" Drive, 18" Long Flex Ratchet 4430
I had been searching for a long-assed ratchet for a while. There seemed to be very few options at 18" or longer than weren't absurdly expensive (Snap-On et. al.). I generally hate flex tools, so when I found the Wright 4430,I was a bit dubious. I bought it simply because it was the only 18" ratchet I could stomach the price on. Thankfully, when it arrived, it turned out to have a VERY stiff flex action. There's a number of extremely positive detents on the joint that lock it in place quite effectively. Just shaking the ratchet, you can't make it flex to the next setting. However, you can make it do so by bumping something with it when you're trying to get the socket onto the bolt. It's good enough, however, that I tend not to get pissed off at it until I'm already tired and pissed off at something else. That's really all you can ask for out of a tool.

The ratcheting action is very good. The stroke between clicks is VERY small, MUCH smaller than I was fearing out of an 18" long handle. The handle is also surprisingly comfortable, probably due to how large the diameter is. The knurling is beautifully done, but a little odd. It's fairly deep, but actually quite smooth. I'm not sure how much it aids grip, but at the same time, I haven't had it ever feel slippery. Another plus is that this is a STRONG ratchet. I have seriously heaved on this thing and it doesn't seem to mind. I've used it well into the territory where I should have just gotten the 18" long breaker bar out.

Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with this ratchet.

First picture is an overview of the entire thing:
5986536465_770ca8eea4_b.jpg


Second picture is a closeup of the head. You can see the reversing mechanism and the deep detents for the ball to lock the the flex joint:
5987097858_f7701d2ac1_b.jpg


Final picture is a closeup of the underside of the head:
5987096416_cb1ff65f13_b.jpg





Tool 2: Satin Finish Metric Combination Wrenches, Set No. 752 plus 11-27mm and 11-30mm Wrenches
One of my primary needs was to purchase a set of wrenches that was both tough enough to put up with professional use, well enough made to work in all circumstances, and comfortable enough to really reef on. The Wright combo wrenches are all that without a doubt.

First, they have very good open ends. Not perfect, not the best I own, but very good and more than good enough for professional use. They are a traditional flat-parallel-jaw design with a curved (rather than V) throat. The dimensional accuracy is good, as is the quality of the broaching. They tend to get most of the fasteners I need them for off without a hassle. However, I also have a set of Proto wrenches (see review on this forum) that have the Anti-Slip Design open end. The Proto wrenches are clearly superior in their ability to remove extremely seized fasteners without slipping or rounding. That being said, I wouldn't be too bothered if the Wrights were my only open end wrenches. They're better than any open ended wrench I've ever used with the exception of the Proto ASD wrenches.

Second, the box end is extremely good. I put my other 12pt and 6pt wrenches in a drawer as an experiment to see if I'd go looking for them. 3 months later and the drawer has only been opened to take out the other wrenches and put them up for sale. I have done everything from standing on the end of the wrench to apply more force to slugging the **** out of them with a 4lb deadblow hammer. I have yet to round over a single fastener. When pulling a rusty nut off, the wrenches leave very clear, sharply defined shiny spots on the nut which allows you to see that the wrenches do make contact with the flats of the nut well away from the corners. I heartily commend Wright on their design of the box end!

Third, the beam is very comfortable. The most comfortable of any wrench I've ever handled (though I've never touched a Bonney, which are reputed to be quite nice). It's very thick and the corner radius isn't sharp at all. I can definitely pull harder on this wrench than I can on others (such as the Protos which HURT) due to the design of this beam. The key feature is that the maximum thickness of the beam is carried all the way out to the edge, which makes the edge thicker than designs that taper towards the edge. I'm sure Wright's design uses more steel, but I'm willing to pay for that.

Very, very good wrenches at a very, very reasonable price. I recommend these without hesitation.

First picture is just an overview of the wrench:
5986540401_595c424cf1_b.jpg


Second picture is a close up of the open end. As you can see, it's just a strong, simple, traditional form:
5987100860_7c624d3ffc_b.jpg


Next picture is a close up of the box end. Same story here, strong, simple, great design:
5986543817_ff6911ab7a_b.jpg


Final picture shows how thick and comfortable the beam is:
5986544659_11e53b49a1_b.jpg





Tool 3: Metric Flare Nut Wrenches Set No. 744
These are the ones I'm least impressed with. They're solid, they work, they seem to be pretty strong and haven't rounded anything yet, but they just don't grab me. Then again, they're tools, they're just supposed to work. The only thing I can say bad about them is that they're a little chunky, which makes a couple of places I have to work on cars a little tight.
5987106110_af079ee6c7_b.jpg
 
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williaty

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May 16, 2010
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Tool 4: Metric 1/2" Drive Impact Sockets, Set No. 466 and 467 with Sockets 48-32mm and 49-30mm
These are another purchase I'm pretty happy with. One of the first things I noticed was how different these sound in use than the impact sockets I had been using. The previous sockets made kind of a slapping noise like slapping a steak down on a counter. These Wrights make a sharp crack like some kinds of rifles. I take this to mean that the Wrights are more rigid (read: more efficient) and are transmitting the impact with less squish. Another big advantage to the Wrights is that they're smaller in outer diameter than the other impact sockets I've had. This means I can fit them places were I couldn't fit my older impact sockets. They've also got just a really nice feel to them, which counts for nothing in terms of performance but it does make them better to handle.

Anyway, another purchase I'm happy with and would definitely recommend.

First picture shows that the engravings are nice and deep. They also have the hole for pin-retention if you're required to use the pin-and-band by your employer:
5986547889_b6da21b060_b.jpg


Second picture shows that the Wright impact sockets do use a modified, non-traditional hex profile. It seems to work. I haven't rounded a fastener yet, even with the IR 2135QTiMAX wailing away at full blast on a 14mm bolt head:
5987107856_3f3972b160_b.jpg





Tool 5: 1/2" Drive 10mm Male Hex Impact Socket 42B-10MM
Let me start off by saying I ****** LOVE this thing. It has made my life considerably easier. I'm a Subaru specialist and the camshaft sprockets on the EJ-series engines are secured to the camshafts by means of a bolt with a 10mm female hex in the end of it. This would be fine except for the fact that the bolt is made of **** metal, they're torqued to a million foot pounds by Godzilla at the factory, and they get tighter with heat-cycling until they seize in place like a geologic formation. Before I got this socket from Wright, I had a handful of 10mm male hex sockets because it wasn't uncommon for me to snap one per cam sprocket I had to remove. That was with both USA and chi-com brands, so it's not a COO thing. Keeping up with warranty replacements was a nightmare. The ones where I didn't snap the socket usually rounded out the head of the bolt. It was a nightmare.

Since I got this little beauty, I haven't snapped a single socket nor have I rounded out a single bolt. It's SO much better. Using a breaker bar, cheater, and a scale (to stand on and watch how much of my weight I was putting on the bar), I have twice exerted over 800lbf-ft of of torque on it in the process of getting a cam sprocket bolt out. It was enough to wind up the pretty beefy cam-holder tool like a piece of string. The result was that the bolt came loose, the tool was fine, and the bolt just had 6 bright marks on it where the tool had touched it.

Awesome, awesome win.

Overview of the socket, even this little guy has the pin-retention hole:
[/img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6143/5986550295_9b4d546dc6_b.jpg[/img]

The actual hex portion is replaceable should you snap it. A set screw holds it in place:
5987108554_69c4001b44_b.jpg





Tool 6: 1/2" Drive 12-point Standard Sockets 41-12MM and 41-14MM
There's nothing really special about these other than the fact that they exist at all. The EJ-series engines and the Subaru trannies are held together with 12-point bolts, 12mm and 14mm head size. They're also way the hell down in a hole in several places. Oh, and they're tightened to a billion lbf-ft at the factory. So 3/8"-drive sockets tend to break and 1/2" sockets tend to either not fit or be 6-point only. Finding a 1/2"-drive, skinny, 12-point socket with a deep enough broaching was a miracle.

Socket:
5986550809_cf511bb566_b.jpg


Detail of the broaching:
5986551375_3761404278_b.jpg





Now, sadly, all is not perfect in Toolland. All of these tools were spotless when they arrived. No rust, no blemishes, nothing wrong. Almost all of the tools are undergoing what I consider excessively easy rusting. Meaning that they're rusting when the (cheaper) tools they replaced didn't rust and when other tools in the very same drawers aren't rusting at all. I have to say that I don't feel Wright has the whole surface treatment thing under control. Pretty much all of my impact sockets are showing considerably rust (other than the ones that get dropped in oil daily). About half of my combination wrenches have rust spots on them. All the flare nut wrenches are rusting. The ratchet and the two chrome sockets are prefect, however. Now, before that sends everyone into a panic, this is just surface rust. It's a discoloration more than anything else. You can wipe 90% of it away with a rag in a few seconds of scrubbing. It's not a deal-breaker for me at all, especially considering how affordable the tools are.

Here's an example of the impact sockets. This one rusted more on the inside than the outside, but the majority of the sockets are the other way around:
5987111068_8e24485967_b.jpg


Here's an example of what the combination wrenches are doing:
5987104752_77b2728ba2_b.jpg





So, overall? I'm actually very happy with everything except the flare nut wrenches. I'm not really unhappy with the flare nut wrenches, I just find them unlovable :lol: I would make most of these purchases again in a heartbeat and I would recommend them to other professionals (and serious homeowners, given the accessible pricing).
 

Boiler

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Nov 20, 2009
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1,967
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Indiana
Combo wrenches easily rusting bugs me. And surface rust just means it hasn't rusted for long.

Are you raising and lowering the temperature in your shop a large amount on a regular basis?
 
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williaty

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May 16, 2010
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Combo wrenches easily rusting bugs me. And surface rust just means it hasn't rusted for long.

Are you raising and lowering the temperature in your shop a large amount on a regular basis?
It's a non-climate-controlled shop. It goes up and down every day. Lately, relative humidity has been in the 80% or higher range and the temperature cycles each day between 70F at night and 100-105F during the day. It's definitely not a good environment for the tools, but many other tools stored the same way aren't having a problem.
 

MadMark

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Sep 21, 2009
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New York City
Nice review!
how much were the hex impacts. I like the design of the 10mm , it tapers down to the actual size. that makes it stronger
 
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williaty

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I don't know individual pricing on any of it. I went to TR Tool Supply and said "I want this giant batch of tools, how much for the entire order?".
 

pipsters

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Sep 1, 2010
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On the rust front. Check out this, from Zerust:

http://www.zerustproducts.com/toolbox-tackle-box/drawer-liners

I own a small brick for my shotgun case that has done the trick in the humid SE USA for several years. No rust what so ever.

In the toolbox, I have tried Camphor, it is an old school technique they used back in the day. I believe Zerust has similar properties. However I found that a 1# box of Camphor @ $16 or so doesn't last very long (a few months, as the squares dissipate in the air) and while it has cut down on surface rust of my wrenches, I'm not convinced it will last years like the Zerust product (quoted @ 5 years).
 

toolmaker1

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Oct 3, 2010
Messages
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Location
Northwest Pa
On the rust front. Check out this, from Zerust:

http://www.zerustproducts.com/toolbox-tackle-box/drawer-liners

I own a small brick for my shotgun case that has done the trick in the humid SE USA for several years. No rust what so ever.

In the toolbox, I have tried Camphor, it is an old school technique they used back in the day. I believe Zerust has similar properties. However I found that a 1# box of Camphor @ $16 or so doesn't last very long (a few months, as the squares dissipate in the air) and while it has cut down on surface rust of my wrenches, I'm not convinced it will last years like the Zerust product (quoted @ 5 years).


Glad to hear im not the only one using the old toolmakers trick of camphor blocks. One thing i will add is if you do buy camphor, don't buy the cheap import stuff off of ebay. It is not the same as the old camphor. The last good camphor I had just dissipated into the air and formed a rust barrier on my tools but this ebay **** just crumbles into a powder in the box. I need to get to Walmart and see if they carry it behind the pharmacy counter like they used to.
 

TheGrooveking

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An alternate reality in a parallel universe.
Great review and pictures, excellent photography. Thanks for posting. Where are you located, by any chance near a body of salt water? The reason I ask is I have multiple sets of Wright impact sockets in a non-heated/non-air conditioned (hopefully to change this year) garage and haven't had much of a problem with rust, but I did spray them down with WD40 when I got them.

TheGrooveking
 
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williaty

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Central Ohio. Lots of salt on roads, no salt in the water. It's possible, I suppose, that enough salt comes off the cars I work on to hurt the tools, but that seems like a bit of a reach.
 

SMKS

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Feb 14, 2010
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USA, planet Earth
I suspect the line wrench may have been made for Wright by Danaher (now Apex Tools). It looks like a dead ringer to the K-D I have. The texture of the finish seems slightly different, but I've noticed Craftsman and other Apex-made wrenches have inconsistent finish textures as well.

Compare the box ends. The design sure looks identical to me.

Also, I believe Danaher provides the Cougar line of tools for Wright, so there is already some connection between the two companies.



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pipsters

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Glad to hear im not the only one using the old toolmakers trick of camphor blocks. One thing i will add is if you do buy camphor, don't buy the cheap import stuff off of ebay. It is not the same as the old camphor. The last good camphor I had just dissipated into the air and formed a rust barrier on my tools but this ebay **** just crumbles into a powder in the box. I need to get to Walmart and see if they carry it behind the pharmacy counter like they used to.

I'll have to check that out, I bought mine from Amazon a few months ago.

Also FYI, "real" camphor should be imported, as it comes from a tree only native to China IIRC.
 

pipsters

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do you have to put these camphor blocks in every drawer? how long do they last? What about drawers where tools are kept in cases?

Put a tablet in the case of the tool if you go that route. I placed a few camphor 1/4 oz blocks in each drawer, and my wide full length drawer with all my sockets I think I have 5 or 6 blocks.
 

TheGrooveking

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Would it be ok with micrometers?

Yes most machinists and toolmakers always have that in their boxes. I buy by the box, I have it in all 10 of my Kennedys and all 11 Gerstners, no negative effects at all, plus its great for those days when your sinuses are blocked up, just stick your head in your box and take a deep breath:bounce:

TheGrooveking
 

diesel research

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gulf coast, TEXAS
As for the impact sockets, it is a trend that I notice with many USA mfgs. Seems the different coating is more corrosion prone than the typical taiwan coatings.
 

toolmaker1

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Northwest Pa
Would it be ok with micrometers?

Absolutely. I'll have to take a picture of my "Mitutoyo" drawer at the shop. Always have a couple blocks in there. My 0-1's are digital and the rest are not and no ill effects for the last 20 years or so. Also the ebay camphor I am talking about is in a red and white box, I'll try to get a picture of that also.
 

bart1

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Alabama the Beautiful
Thanks for this most excellent post! Great tools and I'm really glad to see some reviews on them. I had thought about vetting that exact ratchet, good to see you are pleased with it. I think Wright is a great company and I hope they keep making quality tools in the US.
 

AZ_Catskinner

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Morenci, AZ
Would it be ok with micrometers?

My great grandpa used to keep a bottle of Campho-phenique wrapped in a rag in his toolbox he carried his micrometers and calipers in. Every time he opened the box, he'd crack the bottle open and soak the rag. He passed away in 1978 - the box and his bottle are still sitting in the garage with no signs of rust.

He worked underground repairing the dewatering pumps, so even in that wet of an environment it apparently works.
 

William Payne

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Wanganui, New Zealand
I will have to get some of this camphor stuff, while my tools are yet to show signs of rust I have a couple of stahlwille wrenches with some little specs on them that were there when I got them, similer to the specs on the original posters wright wrench. While they havent got any worse and probably won't it really got me wondering how I can minimise corrosion of my tools when not in use to maximise their working life.
 

rhastings80

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Apr 1, 2009
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I have a few Wright tools as well and I like the ratchets but a few of my wrenches are starting to have chrome issues. Seems very strange. Here is a picture of one. The one side is fine but the other is not.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YskRV5YZ073tJjIhPCWbGg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MBwtMbZhwZo/Tjdt5FhMxbI/AAAAAAAAA1g/_LlUUl1R2jM/s800/IMG_8128.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/August12011?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">August 1, 2011</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/h8Ku6IGIGyvNz8ebEwyE0w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vd_VcojQv2A/Tjdt5nfaVRI/AAAAAAAAA1k/bED9NL9mw1s/s800/IMG_8129.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/August12011?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">August 1, 2011</a></td></tr></table>
 
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