To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

reccommend a good 3 or 4 ton floor jack

autoguru_23

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2006
Messages
7
Location
Cape Cod,Ma
Hi fellow garage junkies,i'm looking to buy a good made in usa 3 ton service jack with a oversize jack pad that meets the frame, i will accept Made In China/Taiwan if i must,but i'd prefer American made or German made products.

I've been looking at northerntool.com at a ac-hydraulic 2.2 ton floor jack,but i'm not feeling that will hold the heavy vehicles i've been lifting up, i have been using a cheap generic made in taiwan :lol_hitti 2 ton floor jack for some time now,say the past 4 years.


I got that no name brand 2 ton floor jack at a yard sale for $5 and i liked the big saddle pad that meets the car/suv/van/truck frame at the time and i'd like another like it and i think it's time for a new 3 or 4 ton floor/service jack,and to retire the 2 ton floor jack to backup duty or for lighter vehicle lifting.

Sorry to be longwinded,hope my fellow garage junkies can suggest/assist.


Thanks in advance...
Pete
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

wilbilt

Banned
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5,602
Location
NorCal
Do a search for OTC model 1732. Made in USA, 3 ton rating. Hein-Werner probably makes one that meets your specs as well. I'm not sure of the size of the lifting saddle.

I have an old 1950 vintage Blackhawk. It's a long frame 4-ton and is brutally overbuilt. The saddle on it is about 5" x 7". If I ever found another one like it, I would snap it up.
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
I don't care for Chinese but for some things, the choices are limited, and they do make some good stuff occasionally. NAPA has a special deal going, a 3-1/2 ton floor jack and two "4" ton jackstands for $199. I saw a whole stack of them in my NAPA store the other day. I bought this same deal about two years ago. The jack is large and comparable with my old 1970's Sears (Blackhawk made) jack.

Its this jack here, which is regular $269

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...NLE&PartNumber=7916420&Description=Floor+Jack

40030.jpg


and these jack stands, which are regular $76

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...NLE&PartNumber=7915050&Description=Jack+Stand

40019.jpg


For $199, a real bargain, even if their regular prices are inflated, the $199 is a deal. The jack is large and has a wide spread between the casters and wheels, very stable.

I called my NAPA store and the part number for the special is 899-6420. This shows a jack only, but if you read, it shows "stand, rachet action height" a weight of 138 lbs (stands and jack) and a price of $273.99. My store in Newnan, GA has a whole stack of them for $199 and I think this is a promotion price.

Charles
 
Last edited:
OP
A

autoguru_23

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2006
Messages
7
Location
Cape Cod,Ma
thanks for the suggestions so far,due to the checkbook being a little bit empty right now,i think i'll have to keep using my 2 ton floor jack for the time being until i can get some cake up for a nicer floor jack,boy this garage addiction gets to be expensive! , wonder what's next on my list of "TO DO" lista cabinets?
 

Danglerb

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
9,736
Location
SoCal
Its a hamburger and steak issue. You can live a long time enjoying fine hamburger, until you get a good steak, and then hamburger is hamburger, ie not steak. Until you own a good jack, you just don't know what your missing.

OTOH if you start out with all great tools and bypass how annoying cheap tools can be maybe you don't appreciate them as much.

With floor jacks good ones last a long time, don't leak, don't need fussing with, and operate smoothly and are easily controlled. Some good ones don't cost all that much, and some costly ones aren't so good. Shop grade steps up construction to handle not only high use, but typical shop abuse as well, so I'm not so sure it means much to a home garage since they are also larger and heavier designed for larger commercial workspaces.
 
OP
A

autoguru_23

Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2006
Messages
7
Location
Cape Cod,Ma
I am still looking for a good floor jack,i am thinking about looking at pawn shops/used tool shops because i really enjoy my wrenching,i have many tools that i've accumulated over time.

Are there any online stores other than e-bay that sell used tools,because i've had a few bad experiences with ebay. I was looking at the craftsman 4 ton floor jack,it looks stirdy and all,it pumped up nice in the store when i tried the floor model,but i've read some bad things about them.

I love my 3 ton sears/craftsman jackstands they're one word..
awesome :willy_nil

Anyway,thanks for all your advice so far,it has all been thought over and i'll be keeping a eye on my thread for replies,as i'm looking to buy in the next month or two, if location helps i'm going to be living in Sandwich on Cape Cod massachussetts,i currently live in the town of Mashpee however, and i go to falmouth/hyannis all the time if anyone is local to the area.

Anyway,sorry to be long winded i'll try and keep my threads short from now on

Cheers! :beer:
 

wilbilt

Banned
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5,602
Location
NorCal
This one is far away, and on ebay, but is very similar to the one I have. It is perhaps a bit newer. You can see the generously-sized saddle. This stuff lasts forever, and parts are still readily available.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

PoorOwner

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
5,032
Location
CA
I have this one.. my friend and neighbor mechanic also have the same one, bought at kragens, they used to have sales for $79.99 which is what I've paid. Looking at the price now, darn inflation.. still it's a very good jack.

It will go lower and lift higher than those generic 2 ton jacks.

However it is 100 lbs so it's really hard to bring it to the track if you need to! I have resorted to an aluminum racing jack (2.5 ton or so) for general duties, just because the powerbuilt is heavy to drag around, killing my floor.

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=647530

647530
http://www.powerbuilttools.co.nz/powerbuiltliftequipment.htm

Someone needs to point me to real jackstands, I am still using those jackstands that come with the 2 ton jack "kit" like ones sold at walmart.. kind of scared sometimes. But my cars are low and I noticed the beefy jackstands are higher and possibly too high to fit under the car even after lifted.
 

dirty old man

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
117
Location
Portland, OR
I have a heavy duty steel one from Costco. I think Alcon makes it? I'm not sure. It's a brute though, and kind of a pain to move around.

It's worked great for the past couple years...always smooth to raise and drop.

I think I might exchange it for their aluminum one though. It'll be easier to lug to the track if needed.
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
This one is far away, and on ebay, but is very similar to the one I have. It is perhaps a bit newer. You can see the generously-sized saddle. This stuff lasts forever, and parts are still readily available.

I have three old Walkers that are like sized to that old Dinasaur. I had the first for the last 20years then a month ago a friend decided to clean up so he asked me if I wanted two more that were identical to the one I already have since he was taking them to the scrapper! I could not watch them go to scrap even though they do need rebuilt so I claimed them. I have a couple other antique short frame Blackhawk jacks I routinely use, and an old Walker hydraulic hand pump end lift that works great for older domestic vehicles and pick-up trucks. I have never bought an import jack,(except porta-power) nor have I ever given more than $25.00 for any of them. However I have spent up to $ 50.00 to get a rebuild kit to rebuild them though. I can say the same for my bottle jacks and my porta power except it was an import job.
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
How hard is it to rebuild a jack?

Do I need anything special like a press?

I will explain what I know below.

There are special tools the experts have and use, but I really have no special tools, primarily those described below!

The first rule is, Do not attempt to rebuild cheapie import jacks they are not worth the effort.

The second rule is find a good re builder candidate, the most common quality names in jacks that you are likely to encounter will be Blackhawk, Hein Warner, Walker I am sure I missed one or two, but these are what I am familiar with.

The third rule is never spend more than $15.00-$20.00. In fact I always try to buy for ten or less cause it is really scrap you are buying on any crapped out jack, regardless the brand. You must look at every one as a roll of the dice, by the time you buy a kit and tear the jack down so you have the bottle on the bench you will likely have another $20.00-$40.00 in it keeping in mind you are not guaranteed success.

Rule four is always attempt to find the original tag listing all the specs like tonnage and most important of all, the brand, serial & possibly model numbers before you jump at the chance to buy a junker. If you do not have this info up front, you may play hell getting it once you have already invested money in it. (which is another good reason to stick to the mentioned brands, in the absence of the manuf. tag I would likely still take a chance on it, but that is just me.)

Rule five make sure you have a vise that is substantial enough to hold a drained bottle, the bigger the better! Also do not clamp a bottle into the vise by the outer skin or hydraulic reservoir, because you will likely have to put some hefty effort into removing the big hex nut at the top of the bottle that keeps everything tied together on the ram end obviously risking damage to the outer skin when really cranking down.

Rule six is do not waste your time attempting to rebuild a jack that has had the hardware that you use to raise/lower the jack twisted off in the body of the jack or other such extreme damage. Anything like that is beyond the tooling or capabilities I have at my disposal.

Rule seven once you have figured out how to get the jack drained & in the vise you need to get after either the big nut I spoke of in rule five (if you are lucky) or if you are not lucky you will have a essentially a big nut that is not hex shaped but rather is supposed to require the use of a spanner wrench to remove it. I have no spanners so I use whatever tool at my disposal will remove it; which usually ends up being a cold chisel, old screwdrivers I keep for such purposes, drifts, or other tools that I can fit in the slot and beat on. If you are lucky and get a big hex nut on top. A big pipe wrench, or a 3/4" socket of the proper size will usually do the trick.

Rule eight avoid using a torch for anything involved with rebuilding a jack. No one told me this, just my rule. I do not want to take the temper out of any parts so I always try to work it cold.

Rule nine take your time, if you get pissed it is time to go watch TV with the Mrs, come back later and have another go at it. I do not usually find penetrating lube to be a whole lot of good, but if you want you might try it during tear down.

Rule ten is once you are trying to clean things up and install the proper kit cleanliness of any components related to the inside of the jack is a must. Moisture and dirt/rust of any kind will kill a jack in short order so keep things surgically clean during re assembly. Also keep all your o rings, gland packing and the like soaking in hydraulic jack oil as you begin rebuilding, install everything wet.

No more rules, just additional tips. After tear down and before reassembly blow compressed air through all the passages; make damned sure you removed any steel ball bearings, needles or the like before blowing passages clear look real good, sometimes they are easy to miss. Once you have reassembled everything fill the bottle with fluid and try to make it work. I really do not know what to tell you about bleeding the jack of air after the rebuild, I simply fiddle around with the plug and controls until it begins working proper. I never really know how successful I have been until I reassemble the whole jack and actually lift a vehicle with it. BTW if your luck is like mine at some point when filling the jack with oil and trying to get it to function properly I always get a messy and uncomfortable shower of jack oil so remember during the bleeding of air to be careful because you are under pressure!

I have had very good success rebuilding quite a few jacks using the above method and ideas. I cannot begin to describe how much enjoyment I get out of resurrecting scrap to a usable tool. They really look like brand new if you go the extra mile and clean them up and give them a fresh heavy brush paint job and grease the wheels while you are at it!

Sorry this was so windy but I had to tell you everything about rebuilding one. I hope you find an old timer and give it a try! :beer:
 

wilbilt

Banned
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5,602
Location
NorCal
I have a couple other antique short frame Blackhawk jacks I routinely use

I have a short Blackhawk that is probably too far gone to save. The yoke under the saddle is broken, and the rear caster mounts were welded at some point.

I couldn't stand the thought of it going to China on a barge. I'll probably clean it up, paint it and hang it on the wall. I think the design is truly art.
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
I have a short Blackhawk that is probably too far gone to save. The yoke under the saddle is broken, and the rear caster mounts were welded at some point.

I couldn't stand the thought of it going to China on a barge. I'll probably clean it up, paint it and hang it on the wall. I think the design is truly art.

I bet you are wrong. I would weld, or have welded the yoke under the saddle, and I would remove the rear caster mounts & just make sure the weld quality is still good on them. If it is leaking you could always kit it as I suggested. I would not fear the welds because you are not on the bottle only the hard parts making repair, and it is not like they were hardened parts to begin with. Also I do not fear the welds because I only work under jack stands never a jack only so I am not taking a chance with my personal safety.

If your old Blackhawk is like mine, it has a huge square plate for the lift saddle. That model jack was built like a tank, nearly indestructible. If you do not like that idea, look in the yellow pages under hydraulic jack repair and call any repair shop in your area, supply the model # and ask if they might have replacements for your damaged parts in the oldies bone pile out back of the shop. Some shops hang on to the old quality jacks and scavenge the hard parts for years. Just some ideas for consideration. It takes a lot for me to give up on oldies like that one. Also that was a very popular jack with tons of them still out there.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom