Riveted Aluminum Picture Frame

Hello everyone...

I've been working on a riveted aluminum picture frame this weekend. Tomorrow is my 2nd wedding anniversary and I wanted to make something special for my wife. We just got back from a cruise, and had a ton of professional pictures of us, which needed a home. I decided on 5x7 for the picture size and I wanted to build a frame with a horizontal format. I made sure I had an appropriate picture for that and got to work.

I'm just starting out in my new hobby. I primarily work with aluminum and I try to use solid rivets as fasteners, whenever possible (just because I like the look of them and I like the challenge of figuring out how to engineer a joint to make a certain fastening system work. I've finally got a decent set of basic tools (most of my new stuff is just 'new to me...' finds off of CL and eBay).

Well, I know you guys like pictures, so let's get started...

View media item 11311I've done a fair number of purely practice pieces and I was ready to dig into some real projects for a change.

View media item 11314All of the aluminum sheet and bar, with layout completed and ready for cutting. For the front of the picture frame, I used sheet and cut out the hole for the picture to show through. To conserve material, where appearance wasn't so important, I used bar stock as the spacer on three side to provide a place for the glass, picture, and backing cardboard.


View media item 11330Here, you see the two sheets I am using for the front of the picture frame. Notice one of them is polished around the edge (the center will be cut out for the picture). The back layer is finished with 220 grit sandpaper in a random-orbit sander. Notice the clecos used to keep everything aligned. These are temporary holes, in the part of the frame which will be cut out for the picture. Since it didn't really matter, I used the largest size of cleco I have, which is for a number 10 drill. I used the little green clamps to hold the sheets in place, relative to each other, while I drilled the four holes and inserted the clecos.


View media item 11316Here are some of the tools I used on this project. I picked up the Ryobi polishing kit at HD a few weeks ago...just to try my hand at polishing aluminum some day. 'Some day' arrived with this project. I also used an electric random-orbit sander with 120 & 220 grit paper. You see the polishing wheel chucked up in the air drill...that didn't last long. I figured if the compressor was going to cycle that much, I might as well go with an electric drill in the first place. (OH...I'm not actually an 'all DeWalt guy...' but I was definitely going through a DeWalt phase when I bought those few tools.)

Notes on polishers...or at least, "How it seems to work to me." A larger diameter buffing wheel generally does a good job of getting into deeper crevices, but does not put much pressure on the piece being polished. A smaller diameter buffing wheel allows you to put more pressure on the project, but doesn't reach down into the crevices nearly as well. It is really difficult to determine when you have enough (any?) polish on the wheel. It doesn't necessarily change color, even if you are using colored buffing compounds. The wheel definitely gets black from the small bits of aluminum removed in the buffing process. Don't take this as 'buffing law,' it is just a summary of my observations while trying out the buffing process this weekend. The last time I buffed metal before this weekend was when I was 12 years old in shop class in junior high.


View media item 11331I got busy fabricating and slowed down on the picture taking. Here is the picture frame in mock up, still being held together with clecos. I have the polished piece on top, with the sanded piece behind. The rivets I use (470's) have a natural golden color with the anti-corrosion finish on them...which adds another interesting detail to the frame. Thank goodness for my foresight in test fitting the glass at this point. The side spacers made another trip to the sander at this point, to give the glass more clearance to slide in and out easily.


View media item 11332Here is the back of the frame in mock up, still held together with clecos. Notice the relatively simple idea I settled on for the picture frame support. I was going to do something far more complex...with a much higher likelihood of failing (tipping). In the end, it was the last piece I had to fab and I just did the simplest and quickest thing which came to mind.


View media item 11334Here is a closer detail of the back. You can see where the glass, picture, and cardboard slide in (the piece is bowed in...next time, i'll use a little thicker sheet for this part...being the 'back piece' in solid riveting and being thin enough to flex was not a great combination). Where you slide the glass in, I need clearance, instead of leaving the normal shop head on the back of the rivets. I chose to countersink the back side of the rivets (the faceplate material was plenty thick) and cut the rivets super short (since they really only provide a decorative role here...very little structural support...they only hold the front trim ring on, here at the top edge of the frame).


View media item 11336A rear view of the completed picture frame project.


View media item 11335A front view of the complete riveted aluminum picture frame, with picture and glass in place.

Kev

That looks great...nice job!

What are you using to buck and set the rivets? I've wanted to use solid rivets on a few projects but just haven't got around to it.

ZTFab said:

That looks great...nice job!

What are you using to buck and set the rivets? I've wanted to use solid rivets on a few projects but just haven't got around to it.

Click to expand...

View media item 11337I use the same techniques used to build aircraft. I am completely self-taught in this area. I do know how to TIG weld, but I really like the look of solid rivets.

Above are my basic tools for riveting...a Cleco 4x rivet gun (essentially an air hammer with very fine trigger control). You see a rivet set in the nozzle, with yellow electrical tape covering the tip. The rivets have a gold-colored finish on them for corrosion resistance...I like the look of that, but driving a rivet without 'padding' on the rivet set rubs some of that off. There are a few very large rivets, several sizes of cleco's, a center punch for positioning holes, a red-handled tool for deburring the edges of sheet aluminum, a countersink mounted in a screwdriver handle for deburring holes, an aircraft bucking bar, and a pair of safety glasses. The golf ball is just to show scale.

Thanks for sharing. Nice work.

Great work... My Walmart picture frames work well! Haha

I think standard practice is 4 to 6D on pitch but since it's not flying will cut you some slack, e/d looks good
In all seriousness great little project, well done.

looks very nice,i'm in the process of collecting aluminum,copper tubing and brass fittings for a project i want to build.i love the look of polished aluminum with polished copper.something about that two tone combination.

First, nice job on the picture frame.

Second, could you go into more detail on how the rivet gun works with solid rivets? I have been using blind/pop rivets and would consider learning this skill but I've had very little luck in googling rivets. Specifically, I like how rivets are used for aircraft panels and your process on the frame appears to reproduce the same effect.

Assumptions I have looking at your tools is:
1. you drill out a hole on where you want the rivet to be placed through the sheet(s).
2. Are the solid rivets in 2 parts where the air hammer pounds the exterior/ dome piece into the interior piece?
3. Clecos? Part of the rivet or just a device to keep the pieces aligned?

ZTFab said:

That looks great...nice job!

What are you using to buck and set the rivets? I've wanted to use solid rivets on a few projects but just haven't got around to it.

Click to expand...

ZT,

Aircraft Spruce in Corona should have everything you need. Most, if not all of it was already posted by machine_punk. You will definitely want a real pneumatic riveting hammer with the appropriate rivet set so you can throttle the trigger, and a bucking bar. The AT670 like punk pictured will get you by in most cases. I believe the rivets he is using are AN470. They make a handy measuring tool to check the bucked side for proper thickness/width that is only a few bucks.

Watch out for the smilies when riveting! I'm sure machine_punk can elaborate. It definitely takes some practice.

FJ 432 said:

Assumptions I have looking at your tools is:
1. you drill out a hole on where you want the rivet to be placed through the sheet(s).
2. Are the solid rivets in 2 parts where the air hammer pounds the exterior/ dome piece into the interior piece?
3. Clecos? Part of the rivet or just a device to keep the pieces aligned?

Click to expand...

FJ,

To answer your questions:

1) Drill the holes to the appropriate size. Either the holes are laid out, or you'll have to make them with a duplicator or rivet fan. Check a rivet chart for the appropriate hole diameter.

2) The rivets are one piece. Essentially, you "squish" the back side of the rivet while simultaneously fill the slight gap in the rivet hole with the riveting hammer and bucking bar.

3) Yes, the clecos hold the panel located and the two surfaces tightly together so all the holes line up when bucking subsequent rivets. If you have a gap between two panels, the rivet will bulge between the two panels and not hold them together properly.

Edit to add:

The picture frame is a damn cool idea machine_punk! I have a ton of unused AN470's at work. Mind if I copy your idea?

FJ 432 said:

Second, could you go into more detail on how the rivet gun works with solid rivets? I have been using blind/pop rivets and would consider learning this skill but I've had very little luck in googling rivets.

Click to expand...

SWT did a great job of summarizing the solid rivet process.

TWO PIECE? No, they are NOT two-piece rivets (see the picture I posted of equipment...right below and to the right of the four clecos, you see 3 solid rivets. (these are, admittedly, very large solid rivets, which I purchased for a project I will be posting soon). The domed head you see on these (yes, they are 470's) is called the 'factory' head. The head you create (a very short, squished cylinder shape, is called the 'shop head.' It is created by your bucking bar, which is a solid chunk of metal you put on the backside of the rivet while you are hitting the factory head with your rivet gun.

SMILIES: AAAARGH...I was five rivets from the end of the project, when it slipped and gave me a couple of smilies...oh well, at least she knows it was hand made. I'll go back later and smooth those in (same process you use for nicks on an aluminum propellor) and they will be barely noticeable.

RESOURCES: There are, oddly enough, a fair number of YouTube videos on solid riveting. I also found some great videos at the EAA site (Experimental Aircraft Association...all about building your own airplanes).

THANKS! For all the positive comments. I've been enjoying this forum and it is nice actually start contributing my own material to this vast resource.

On that note, There seems to be enough interest in the process, so I plan to put together a 'solid rivets 101' post soon. I'll have plenty of pictures. I'm sure there are others better trained in the process, but I like to teach and share the things I've learned.

SWT Racing said:

FJ,
The picture frame is a damn cool idea machine_punk! I have a ton of unused AN470's at work. Mind if I copy your idea?

Click to expand...

Please do!

I missed one of the questions/comments hidden in there...about how this looks a lot like the riveting on airplanes.

YES! That is the very process I am using, and exactly the look I prefer. However, on airplanes, they generally use 'flush set' rivets (flat with the surrounding surface). Since my rivets are meant to be more visible in my projects, I have chosen a round-head rivet (still certified for use on airplanes).

Kev

For edge riveting, a rivet hammer is not needed.

We use a c-frame looking "rivet gun". When you pull the trigger, air over hydraulic forces the ram down, deforming the rivet.

Just like a normal c clamp, it can only reach a few inches in, so it can only be used for perimeter work.



Much quieter MUCH QUIETER, and much safer. Expensive, and limited in use.

Well now, there's something you don't see every day.Very original and cool.
I am envious of your air hammer.

That's a nice looking picture frame, you did well! I noticed the smilies when you first posted, but I wasn't going to say anything. We've all done it.

If you plan to continue with these projects you might consider a rivet squeeze. I don't have a C-frame like DieselResearch posted, as I prefer the alligator style for handheld squeezes:



Used prices are favorable on Ebay if you keep your eyes peeled.

You probably already are aware, but AC43-13 is the bible for aircraft repair and includes a large section on riveting an riveted structures. It is available for download in PDF format from FAA.gov

machine_punk said:

RESOURCES: There are, oddly enough, a fair number of YouTube videos on solid riveting. I also found some great videos at the EAA site (Experimental Aircraft Association...all about building your own airplanes).

THANKS! For all the positive comments. I've been enjoying this forum and it is nice actually start contributing my own material to this vast resource.

On that note, There seems to be enough interest in the process, so I plan to put together a 'solid rivets 101' post soon. I'll have plenty of pictures. I'm sure there are others better trained in the process, but I like to teach and share the things I've learned.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the information everyone. I will check the sites mentioned above and look forward to solid rivets 101.

A_Pmech said:

That's a nice looking picture frame, you did well! I noticed the smilies when you first posted, but I wasn't going to say anything. We've all done it.

If you plan to continue with these projects you might consider a rivet squeeze. I don't have a C-frame like DieselResearch posted, as I prefer the alligator style for handheld squeezes:

Used prices are favorable on Ebay if you keep your eyes peeled.

You probably already are aware, but AC43-13 is the bible for aircraft repair and includes a large section on riveting an riveted structures. It is available for download in PDF format from FAA.gov

Click to expand...

So does this tool offer you a greater depth as opposed to the C clamp?

The AC43-13 you mention, could you elaborate? Is this an industry bible?

When using these tools, very loud??? Do you need a tremendous amount of pressure (e.g. a large compressor). Thanks.

FJ 432 said:

So does this tool offer you a greater depth as opposed to the C clamp?

The AC43-13 you mention, could you elaborate? Is this an industry bible?

When using these tools, very loud??? Do you need a tremendous amount of pressure (e.g. a large compressor). Thanks.

Click to expand...

No, actually alligator squeezes are limited in depth. Mine will squeeze to 5-1/2". A C-frame squeeze has an essentially unlimited depth - just build a bigger C-frame. I've seen floor squeezes with C-frames 6' deep that use the same Chicago Pneumatic power head as the small bench mount model shown above, which is the same power head as a handheld C-frame squeeze. Alligator squeezes are just faster and easier to handle.

They are very quiet, except for the end of cycle blowoff valve which makes a loud BANG! once each cycle. They don't use a lot of air at all. Maybe 2-5 CFM with a guy who is "in the groove" setting a big seam of rivets.

AC43.13 "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices, Aircraft Inspection, Repair and Alterations" is the bible for Airframe and Powerplant mechanics, yes.

A_Pmech said:

That's a nice looking picture frame, you did well! I noticed the smilies when you first posted, but I wasn't going to say anything. We've all done it.

If you plan to continue with these projects you might consider a rivet squeeze. I don't have a C-frame like DieselResearch posted, as I prefer the alligator style for handheld squeezes:

Used prices are favorable on Ebay if you keep your eyes peeled.

You probably already are aware, but AC43-13 is the bible for aircraft repair and includes a large section on riveting an riveted structures. It is available for download in PDF format from FAA.gov

Click to expand...

View media item 11215
PNEUMATIC RIVET SQUEEZERS: Thanks for mentioning these Pneumantic Rivet Squeezers. Here are my two...I got BOTH of them, plus 5 more c-frames for just $75 on eBay. You have to watch for postings in unusual areas, from people who don't know what they have. Otherwise, these go for $150-$750 EACH. I didn't mention these earlier, because they are 'advanced equipment,' not something you need for your occasional project.

The 'C-frame' models can rivet as deep of a piece as you can build a C-frame for, but tend not to reach very far into the project (can only rivet the very edge, usually within 3 inches or so). The can, however, generate a LOT more force, which means they can set larger rivets (around 1/4" in diameter). The 'Alligator' models can reach a little further in from the edge of the project, but give up some power doing that, theoretically limiting the size of rivet you can use.

All of these come in single-piston and double-piston models. The double piston models give exactly twice as much force as the single piston models.

COMPRESSOR SIZE: The pneumatic rivets squeezers don't really use much air at all. Even though the air cylinder is HUGE, compared to other air tools, the tool only cycles once per rivet (and lets off a huge, 95 decibel 'pop' at the end of the cycle).

The rivet gun uses about the same amount of air as a rivet hammer, but you are using a LOT less force (usually set in the 25-45 PSI range) and you are only pulling the trigger for a couple of seconds per rivet. (I usually set my pressure to squish a rivet in about 6-10 blows). Which is not like the muffler work with air hammers...trigger down until the job is done.

I use a "15-Amp Maximum" compressor (An older "two horse," 120 volt compressor with a 33 gallon tank.) I put the two HP in quotes, because I am sure it is overrated. But, I can easily power both the pneumatic rivet squeezers and rivet guns off this compressor.

Thanks for the questions and the kind comments. I'll definitely do a "Solid Riveting 101" with this amount of interest.

Kev

machine_punk said:

View media item 11337I use the same techniques used to build aircraft. I am completely self-taught in this area. I do know how to TIG weld, but I really like the look of solid rivets.

Above are my basic tools for riveting...a Cleco 4x rivet gun (essentially an air hammer with very fine trigger control). You see a rivet set in the nozzle, with yellow electrical tape covering the tip. The rivets have a gold-colored finish on them for corrosion resistance...I like the look of that, but driving a rivet without 'padding' on the rivet set rubs some of that off. There are a few very large rivets, several sizes of cleco's, a center punch for positioning holes, a red-handled tool for deburring the edges of sheet aluminum, a countersink mounted in a screwdriver handle for deburring holes, an aircraft bucking bar, and a pair of safety glasses. The golf ball is just to show scale.

Click to expand...

Neat frame!!!

Was that countersick made by a fellow here on GJ?

MartyO said:

Neat frame!!!

Was that countersick (sic) made by a fellow here on GJ?

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Are you asking about the clear- and red-handled countersink in the center of the picture? If so, then yes, it was made by a fellow on GJ (ME). I noticed that the countersink i wanted to use had a 1/4 hex drive, which is tough to use 'by hand.' Then I noticed that stubby screwdriver handle had a 1/4 hex socket in it, but had a screwdriver bit in it. It didn't take long to trade one for the other, and viola', a hand-held countersink for sheet metal rivet work. If there is someone else on GJ making hand-held countersinks, I'd like to know...they are awfully handy for the work I do.

Kev

machine_punk said:

SMILIES: AAAARGH...I was five rivets from the end of the project, when it slipped and gave me a couple of smilies...oh well, at least she knows it was hand made. I'll go back later and smooth those in (same process you use for nicks on an aluminum propellor) and they will be barely noticeable.

Click to expand...

I was going to mention "Smilies". Sometimes they are hard to envision for anyone whe has never bucked solid rivets. Once you make one, you'll instantly understand.

Did you smilie the frame itself, or only the rivet?

For those that start out on their first solid rivet adventure, you may ask: "What is the tiny dimple in the head of the rivet for?" . . .It's a pre-made center mark for drilling out rivets with "smilies".

machine_punk said:

Are you asking about the clear- and red-handled countersink in the center of the picture? If so, then yes, it was made by a fellow on GJ (ME). I noticed that the countersink i wanted to use had a 1/4 hex drive, which is tough to use 'by hand.' Then I noticed that stubby screwdriver handle had a 1/4 hex socket in it, but had a screwdriver bit in it. It didn't take long to trade one for the other, and viola', a hand-held countersink for sheet metal rivet work. If there is someone else on GJ making hand-held countersinks, I'd like to know...they are awfully handy for the work I do.

Kev

Click to expand...

General makes one similar to the one you made. I really like these:
They work well and are extremely fast.

Had a coworker who gave his hand a "smile", been on light duty for 3 weeks. Not sure if he broke it or just severely smashed it.

chris fresh said:

looks very nice,i'm in the process of collecting aluminum,copper tubing and brass fittings for a project i want to build.i love the look of polished aluminum with polished copper.something about that two tone combination.

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I like the looks of different metals together too, Chris. Copper is just one of my favorite metals, whether polished, tarnished, or verdigris. Too bad it is so expensive.

View media item 11335SMILIES: If you look back at this picture, you see the two smilies on polished frame, just to the right of the top, left rivet. I was about 5 rivets away from being done with the frame (a real 'doh!' moment).

What you really cannot make out well in the picture is the tiny smily on the head of the rivet. The smilies on the frame I will be able to smooth out to where they are barely visible (Metals really act more like liquids than solids). The one on the rivet head will have to stay...unless I drill out and reinstall a new rivet. While I really would have preferred the project be 'perfect,' it was my first real project. Everything before that was test pieces. Someday, I'll look back and say, "I've come a long way from that first project."

FUTURE PROJECTS: I do have another project in the works, but it is much larger than this one and will be worthy of its own thread, with lots of pictures. I'm also planning to write the "Solid Rivets 101" thread.

HOLE DEBURRING TOOL: SWT, I do like that 'dog leg' deburring tool and it is definitely already on my list of tools to buy. While I do probably have more of a 'play' budget than many, there is a limit to how much I can spend monthly, I choose not to use credit cards for hobbies, and I have to carefully decide 'what is next.' The company I tend to buy these tools from (Brown Tool) has free shipping when you spend a certain amount, so I usually wait until I have a few things I want from them, before ordering.

Thanks again for everyone's interest, questions, input, and kind comments. I am hardly an expert at this, but I enjoy sharing what little I know.

WE did some tank supports for a water bomber, bought a *********** squeezer to do it. No one in the hsop had ever hand bucked them so the squeezer worked well for us. Very easy to set the closed height with shims to get the rivets to the right height and diameter

machine_punk said:

The company I tend to buy these tools from (Brown Tool) has free shipping when you spend a certain amount, so I usually wait until I have a few things I want from them, before ordering.

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Ever try PanAmerican Tool?

www.panamericantool.com

I have looked at the Pan America site...it has been a while since I have looked at their site, but from what I remember they are one of the big producers of clecos.

Mario428, great looking project. Your workmanship is superb.

Machine Punk......For doing a bunch of rivets like that you need to have a "seat" to set the head in then buck the rivet from the backside. I am off work on medical right at the moment, but when I get back I can make you up a set and send them to you. What it does is seats the rivet head but lets the head bottom stick up about .002-.005 so the tool does not hit the metal where the rivet is going. THis also keeps the head from having a flat spot where it is bucked.

Also for what you are doing, if you wouldn't want the rivets sticking up on the backside where you bucked them, you can add a countersink, buck the rivet hard enough to fill the countersink, then file them all flush, then scotchbrite the backsde. It will make for a nice flat surface. Of course this is not for structural intgrity but just for aesthetics.

And just a little info, if you are doing something like picture frames and such using rivets for looks instead of structure, stay away from the rivets with the cross on top. those are hardened rivets.

Thanks for all the information, Kevin54! I appreciate the input. I'm just getting started in this and I've got a lot to learn.

Kevin54 said:

Machine Punk......For doing a bunch of rivets like that you need to have a "seat" to set the head in then buck the rivet from the backside. I am off work on medical right at the moment, but when I get back I can make you up a set and send them to you.

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I'm looking forward to trying your 'rivet seats,' I'll PM you my address. Of course, once I get them, I'll post pics of your idea in action...and include them in my upcoming 'Solid Rivets 101' post.

Kevin54 said:

Also for what you are doing, if you wouldn't want the rivets sticking up on the backside where you bucked them, you can add a countersink, buck the rivet hard enough to fill the countersink, then file them all flush, then scotchbrite the backsde. It will make for a nice flat surface. Of course this is not for structural intgrity but just for aesthetics.

Click to expand...

Great idea. I did just about that exact thing on three of the rivets which would have been blocking where you insert the glass, picture, and cardboard. I countersunk the rivet hole on the back and chopped the rivet off to what I guessed would be the right height to just fill the countersink and leave the surface flush. I got pretty close...they stick up just about the height of a piece of paper, but are pretty much flush. See picture below...

View media item 11371
I personally don't mind the shop head on the rest of the rivets, but I see now that it would have made a much prettier package if I had made all of the rivets flush with the back. I'll keep that in mind on future, non-structural projects.

I also considered another technique I have read about, when you want a 'pretty' rivet head on both sides. Use the correct rivet set for the front on the front, then use one size smaller domed rivet set on the back...you end up with a domed factory head and a domed shop head.

Kevin54 said:

And just a little info, if you are doing something like picture frames and such using rivets for looks instead of structure, stay away from the rivets with the cross on top. those are hardened rivets.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I've only bought the AN470's so far...trying to learn the 'right way' on the toughest rivets before buying a lot of different rivets. Eventually, I'd like to work with all different kinds of aluminum solid rivets, brass solid rivets, copper solid rivets, and even the steel/monel solid rivets.

Thanks again for the constructive input and the new ideas...exactly the reason I like this forum.

Mario428 said:

WE did some tank supports for a water bomber, bought a *********** squeezer to do it.

Click to expand...

The more I look at it, Mario428, the more I like that C-arm on your stationary pneumatic rivet sqeezer. I've seen that unit before online, but I already have the portable squeezers with more than enough 'ooomph' to do what I would ever need. I was already planning to build a bench mount for my larger squeezer (Chicago Pneumatic CP 0351, the large red squeezer in the upper right-hand corner of the drawer in the picture below...), but I think I'm going to go down to the local water jet guy and get a bigger C arm cut out of 2" plate, then build a bench mount for that.

Mario428: What is the top of that fabrication table? Looks like ultra high molecular weight 'something or the other...' that is sweet!

Hmmm...see what happens when you try to teach others what little you know...you end up learning in the process...I like it!

View media item 11215

machine_punk said:

Mario428: What is the top of that fabrication table? Looks like ultra high molecular weight 'something or the other...' that is sweet!

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Ultra High Molecular weight polyethylene, quite a mouthful but wonderful stuff. Relatively cheap as far as plastic goes and nothing sticks to it.
On final assembly we had to use sealer between all the parts. It went everywhere but once dry came off the tabletop very easily.

All the parts were laser cut or cnc milled with at least two alignment holes thru every part. Then a guide hole in the top part and all hand drilled in a fairly elaborate fixture we built since the outside extrusion had no holes in them.

machine_punk said:

. . . . If there is someone else on GJ making hand-held countersinks, I'd like to know...they are awfully handy for the work I do.

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I make 'em.

Or check out the link in my signature.


Awesome job on the frame and congrats on the 2nd anniversary.