VCT tile now done. Looks great!

Jason B · Oct 4, 2007

After MONTHS of debating what to use for my garage flooring, the decision to do VCT was clear. I'm on the east coast in PA and wanted something that would look great and had a shine. I found 3-4 guys that had the VCT here for over 5 years and theirs had held up great.

I thought about doing the race deck or moto floor, but once you see this VCT with the shine on it, you can't go back. The prep is super easy. No etching, just sweep the floor and clean it off.

I had epoxy in my last house and before I moved it just started to come up under the tires. There is nothing that checkerboard look.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

For any of you that want to do VCT tile, this is a great write-up to follow!

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/images/garage/vct_install.pdf - print it out and get started!

GT350RC · Oct 4, 2007

Link is no good.

How big is your garage, and what was the total cost to put down the tile?

I'm waffling between epoxy and tile.

Jason B · Oct 4, 2007

GT350RC said:
Link is no good.

How big is your garage, and what was the total cost to put down the tile?

I'm waffling between epoxy and tile.

3 car garage, 28x21. Under $500 for everything including renting the 100 lb roller, $12. Also, link fixed.

Marcos · Oct 4, 2007

Looks awesome!!

icnsltmfg · Oct 4, 2007

Jason...a few questions...What brand / type adhesive did you use? What and where did you get the trim piece for the last course..it looks like metal? And last, how did you go about laying the floor as my garage is just a bit smaller, and I also doing a checkerboard pattern. Did you start in the middle, and do it in qtr's? How did you not step on the adhesive or did you do 2ft strips at a time? What degreaser did you use on those few spots? BTW LOOKS GREAT!!!

Jason B · Oct 4, 2007

icnsltmfg said:
Jason...a few questions...What brand / type adhesive did you use? What and where did you get the trim piece for the last course..it looks like metal? And last, how did you go about laying the floor as my garage is just a bit smaller, and I also doing a checkerboard pattern. Did you start in the middle, and do it in qtr's? How did you not step on the adhesive or did you do 2ft strips at a time? What degreaser did you use on those few spots? BTW LOOKS GREAT!!!

You can read about everything I did here:

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/images/garage/vct_install.pdf

I followed the above to the T. I used the Armstrong S-750 glue. The aluminum strip was from Home depot, and is 1"x96" long, and 1/8" thick, the same thickness as the tile. It makes a nice transition.

I wanted the tile to be centered on the bigger 2 car garage door on the left, and I wanted to have a full tile when the garage door was opened in that area.

So, I started from the opening of the garage door itself, and centered it there. It just looked better to me to have a full tile when the garage door is opened. Some start at the front, and then have a half tile or smaller by the garage door. I did not want that. I also added 6" molding on the bottom with 2x10's below it to cover the cinder block. You can kneel on the tile you just layed and spead the glue in front of you. The degreaser was Proforce heavy duty concentrated degreaser, I think from Home Depot. Any will do.

***ALSO, instead of laying the tiles, 1x1, I layed them 2x2, and put 4 black tiles together, then 4 white tiles together. The BIGGER squares look nicer I think.

thrytis · Oct 5, 2007

Good job! With the trim it gives it a really nice finished look.

Piper · Oct 5, 2007

So I too have a couple of questions. Are each of those black and white squares 4 feet by 4 feet? If I read your post right you say you put 4 together. Maybe they're 9" square or something? Second question, what do you plan on doing in this garage? In my build (next July) the garage will be a weekend warrior working garage. Welding, painting, jack stands, jacks, a 4 post lift. Do you think this tile will stand up to that? That also begs the question, would epoxy? How did you address any drain or expansion joint/

I love the look. If this turns out the way I think, I'll be following you in your footsteps for my floor.

Piper

bmwpower · Oct 5, 2007

I would do VCT for my attached garage, but I'm worried about my kids/wife slipping on the stuff. That stuff gets slick when wet. I used to mop VCT floors when I was younger and almost had a couple mishaps.

Also, you still need to worry about moisture in the concrete with VCT. It can still harm the adhesive.

icnsltmfg · Oct 5, 2007

Eric....They do have a VCT called Safety Zone that has a texture built in that would be a good product. Also from Armstrong.

Jason B · Oct 5, 2007

Piper said:
So I too have a couple of questions. Are each of those black and white squares 4 feet by 4 feet? If I read your post right you say you put 4 together. Maybe they're 9" square or something? Second question, what do you plan on doing in this garage? In my build (next July) the garage will be a weekend warrior working garage. Welding, painting, jack stands, jacks, a 4 post lift. Do you think this tile will stand up to that? That also begs the question, would epoxy? How did you address any drain or expansion joint/

I love the look. If this turns out the way I think, I'll be following you in your footsteps for my floor.

Piper

I put 4 white tiles to make one block, and 4 black tiles to make one block. This is the 3 car garage attached to the house. It's 28x21, which is not oversized. I'm going to put some cabinets up and a bench and that's about it.

I've seen many do the VCT with lifts and drains. These guys are all on the east coast, some with older homes and no issues. For jack stands it would be smart to maybe put extra tiles under them when you use if it's warm. The tile is easy to cut, and putting around drains wouldn't be hard. For the joints you have, I'd put the seams of the tiles on that joint, or fill the joints with concrete sealer, then you can lay the tiles wherever you want.

I also have a detached garage that's 14x48 that I'm going to store eveything else in. The adhesive I used does help stop moisture, but really won't effect these tiles anyway. It's the epoxy type floors that moisture will destroy if you have moisture. Most newer houses have a moisture barrier in the concrete for the garage.

icnsltmfg · Oct 7, 2007

Jason...thanks for all of the info...I got half of the garage done today. The longest part was waiting for the adhesive to dry (over 2.5 hrs) I guess because of the humidity. The wife pre-stacked piles for each row based upon the pattern , and feed them to me to put down.

mpraddict · Oct 7, 2007

Jason B said:
I put 4 white tiles to make one block, and 4 black tiles to make one block. This is the 3 car garage attached to the house. It's 28x21, which is not oversized. I'm going to put some cabinets up and a bench and that's about it.

I've seen many do the VCT with lifts and drains. These guys are all on the east coast, some with older homes and no issues. For jack stands it would be smart to maybe put extra tiles under them when you use if it's warm. The tile is easy to cut, and putting around drains wouldn't be hard. For the joints you have, I'd put the seams of the tiles on that joint, or fill the joints with concrete sealer, then you can lay the tiles wherever you want.

I also have a detached garage that's 14x48 that I'm going to store eveything else in. The adhesive I used does help stop moisture, but really won't effect these tiles anyway. It's the epoxy type floors that moisture will destroy if you have moisture. Most newer houses have a moisture barrier in the concrete for the garage.

Mosture doesn't affect the VCT tiles, but it does affect the adhesive. Be careful assuming the adhesive will stop moisture. I've looked at many VCT failures over the years where water vapor was migrating through the slab, most likely because no vapor barrier was installed. The moisture will cause the tiles to lift. Another source of failure has been from an incompatability between the concrete sealer used and the adhesive. Make sure you check with the manufacturer before starting!

Jason B · Oct 7, 2007

Armstrong recommended using the S-750 adhesive and that's what all my friends have used, all on east cost as well. It's the most moisture resistant. I suggest everyone to use this as I've seen it hold up great in some crazy conditions.

One in a barn with no insulation, hehe. Below is from the sec sheet from Armstrong website.

Armstrong S-750 Premium Floor Tile Adhesive

Installation System: Vinyl Composition Tile Installation System
Use: Commercial, Residential

Advantages: Environmentally Compatible Next Generation
Strong, Early Grab (Helps prevent tile movement)
Can be Used as a Primer Prior to Installing Self-Adhering Tile
Moisture and Alkali Resistant

icnsltmfg · Oct 15, 2007

Jason...what did you use to "glue" down that Alum edge strip. Where in HD did they have those? Got the rest of my floor down this weekend. Very happy with the results. Now just need to wax it. Did everyone just mop it first to get the dust and dirt off, and then mop the wax on?

Jason B · Oct 16, 2007

icnsltmfg said:
Jason...what did you use to "glue" down that Alum edge strip. Where in HD did they have those? Got the rest of my floor down this weekend. Very happy with the results. Now just need to wax it. Did everyone just mop it first to get the dust and dirt off, and then mop the wax on?

Your floor came out great!

The alum strip I used polyurethane glue/adhesive for metal to concrete. At home depot in a 10 oz yellow tube that goes in a caulking gun. The strips are smooth and the same thickness as the tile and also from home depot.

I will probably buy the Armstrong mop on wax for the exelon tile.

bka6 · Oct 16, 2007

Great job Jason!! What size are the tiles?

Jason B · Oct 16, 2007

Each tile is 1 foot by 1 foot, but I put 4 white tiles to make one block, and 4 black tiles to make one block.

bka6 · Oct 17, 2007

Jason how do you like the Liftmaster Jackshaft Opener? How hard was the install?

Jason B · Oct 17, 2007

bka6 said:
Jason how do you like the Liftmaster Jackshaft Opener? How hard was the install?

How and where can you see that?

icnsltmfg · Oct 17, 2007

I have the 2 liftmaster's. They are great. Very low noise, 1 amp draw, and was not too bad for the guy to install. (note...pic is before painting)

bka6 · Oct 18, 2007

sorry Jason that question wasnt for you.

1320stang · Oct 18, 2007

Hey Jason, what size were the tiles you used? heh-heh, j/k

Another cool thing about VCT, if your good with a X-acto knife, patient and creative, you can cut designs into your tile and have a custom looking floor as well. Having access to a 36" wide plotter and some graphics software helps too.

NIZMOZ · Oct 20, 2007

Jason B said:
3 car garage, 28x21. Under $500 for everything including renting the 100 lb roller, $12. Also, link fixed.

How big is the roller? Can it fit in a trunk of a car?

kwright · Oct 20, 2007

Very nice... looks great - you did an excellent job!

I've also been debating a high quality epoxy coating versus VCT tile. I need to settle the debate in my own mind real soon, as they're pouring the floor in my new garage next Tuesday. If I go with epoxy, I'll have the concrete guys do a broom finish without a sealer.

My main concern with tile is the durability, though I suppose it's pretty easy to repair... just replace any damaged tile. The thought of moisture or liquids getting under the tile doesn't work for me either (not sure if this is a problem with properly installed tile, though).

Question though: If I decide to go with tile, should I have the floor polished and sealed or doesn't it really make a difference? My thinking was *if* I go with VCT tile, having the floor polished and sealed will protect it until I can get the tile down.

Opinions on this would be welcome.

Jason B · Oct 20, 2007

kwright said:
My main concern with tile is the durability, though I suppose it's pretty easy to repair... just replace any damaged tile. The thought of moisture or liquids getting under the tile doesn't work for me either (not sure if this is a problem with properly installed tile, though).

Question though: If I decide to go with tile, should I have the floor polished and sealed or doesn't it really make a difference? My thinking was *if* I go with VCT tile, having the floor polished and sealed will protect it until I can get the tile down.

If a tile ever needs replaced, yes, that is easy to do. You don't need to worry about liquids getting in. You just seal it with a "mop on" wax, after you install, and this seals it up.

You don't have to do anything special to the concrete, just have them smooth it out like normal. The prep is super easy. No etching, just clean it off with an air blower and a damp mop, that's it! The adhesive will stick to anything.

The roller, is small, and will fit in your trunk.

GunMoto · Oct 21, 2007

Nice, very nice!!! :thumbup:

kwright said:
I've also been debating a high quality epoxy coating versus VCT tile.

Same here...

After seeing how Jason B's VCT project came out, I'm convinced. :bowdown:

(But it's also the prep-work involved with an epoxy coating that I'm reluctant to do...

)

IDASHO · Oct 21, 2007

I wish I could have such a fancy floor.

But I do to much fab work. Cutting/welding etc just destroys such cool floors. Oh well. :spit:

Floor looks great BTW! :beer:

icnsltmfg · Oct 21, 2007

Rem....according to Armstrong Tech group, DO NOT ROLL THE COMMERCIAL TILE! THAT IS THE EXCELON! I did not roll mine and it came out strong and tight. I did have to replace a few tiles. I used a halogen shop light to warm (a hair dryer would work great), warmed it up, and used a wide chisel. I worked slowly and they came up in almost one piece. Scraped a bit more of the glue, put new glue down and the new tiles look and are as secure as new.

Jason B · Oct 21, 2007

Every guy I've talked to used a roller when they installed, and 5+ years they are still going strong. Everytime you call Armstrong you get a different answer it seems. The PDF installs on their site says to roll, the s-750 glue says right on label to roll as well. The glue says this in two spots on the label. Most are using the S-750, and I'm following what the label says.

SteveB · Oct 22, 2007

I got advice from an Armstrong Dealer as well as an independent (over 30 years in the flooring business) and both said to roll the floor at 90 degree patterns ensuring that the roller itself remain clean and free of any debris which might get flattened into the new surface.

After 15 months I have had no moisture issues, lifting/broken tiles nor any regrets.

woohoo · Oct 24, 2007

One thing I've always wondered about - will the tiles lift if you turn the steering wheel of your car while parked on it?

SteveB · Oct 24, 2007

My wife has a habit of cranking her steering wheel just as she is about to shut down.

We've discussed this and so far I have been wrong every time. :bowdown:

So far it has not done any damage to the tiles. Luckily it is a light car, 2200 Miata, and not very grippy tires.

GasserMike · Oct 28, 2007

I know the question was asked , but how durable is this tile with sparks ,like from burning torch , grinder or welder ? I don't do much of that kind of work , but do not want to put a floor down that will not hold up to what I do .

Jason B · Nov 2, 2007

A few more pics from my cellphone camera.

number9 · Nov 8, 2007

Guys those floors look fantastic. :shocking:

Which tile did you get Jason, I see you say P# 51910 and 51911, but I don't see those #'s on this site http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/vinyl-composition-floor-tile.jsp - just want to be sure I am looking at the same product that you used. Was it the EXCELON Companion Square ?

I'd most likely do a solid grey color (maybe with the chip look in it though).

icnsltmfg · Nov 8, 2007

This is what I used
Classic Black 51910
Classic White 51911
Dutch Delft 51916
Cherry Red 51816

http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/product_details.jsp?item_id=381&category=vct

number9 · Nov 8, 2007

Thanks for the info - where did you use the red and dutch colors at? Also, any chance we can get a few more closeups of the aluminum strip and where did you place / end the tile at the garage door at? - just before the seal touches the floor, or actually under the door seal when closed?

Did you buy the tile / glue / etc online or at a local place?

sunshineFC3s · Nov 9, 2007

number9 said:
Thanks for the info - where did you use the red and dutch colors at?

See post #12 of this thread.
-a

Gotwake · Nov 9, 2007

Jason B - What did you fill the expansion joints with? In you last photo - is that concrete or is something under the tile?

VCT tile now done. Looks great!

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