The following is all
my opinion~
Plan on 5" screw spacing on all seams and 12" in the field.
Homeowners always seriously overfasten drywall. 5" spacing on the **** joints is fine, but not necessary at the corners. Four or five nails or screws on a four foot corner joint is plenty. If you glue the field, you don't have to nail it (the field) at all, which is the point of gluing. Less nails make for a smoother, cleaner, faster hanging job, and a smoother, cleaner faster finishing job.
Drywall nails nowadays seem to pop pretty often, so drywall screws were 'invented'.
Interesting. In the '60s the standard drywall nail was a #4 fruit box nail. I've demolished lots of old '60s era sheetrock out, and the old fruit box nails were still holding fine and tight with no popped nails on the sheet.
In the '70s when I started hanging, cupped head nails specially for drywall were being used. A properly dimpled cupped head nail holds very well, especially if driven in pairs, like they should be.
Fast forward to today. The cupped head nails are still available, and the head is half again bigger yet. I just don't see how "nowadays [they] seem to pop pretty often."
Screws are a different animal. They're harder to install correctly. The head must be set
slightly below the surface, without breaking the paper. If you overdrive a screw and break the paper, that screw is history-- won't hold anything. You must install another right by it. Screws are harder to install on a **** joint because the fatter cross section of the screw tends to rupture the core of the rock right at the edge, reducing the holding capacity to nil.
Use it on the ceiling at least.
Never, in the 15 years I hung rock for a living did I ever glue a ceiling. You nail or screw the field on ceiling sheets, you glue the field on wall sheets. It just isn't necessary to glue ceilings when you're fastening the field. We're back to that overfastening thing.
I might consider using glue also if it lets me use 1/2 instead of 5/8.
Doesn't matter what thickness of rock you're using. Nail (or screw) the field on the ceiling, and glue the walls. Nevertheless, I'd use 5/8" in a shop for a couple of reasons. 1) Most shops aren't as climate controlled as a house, and 5/8" will stand up to repeated winter/summer cycles better. 2) Lots of shops are framed on 24" centers. 5/8" is stiffer.
If your shop is climate controlled like your house, and framed on 16" centers, I'd use half-inch. Unless, you want the fire protection rating.
How to glue:
It's not necessary to run a continuous bead from edge to edge. You want to put a blob on the stud 1/3 from each edge, making it stand off the stud as far as possible. That means your two blobs on a single stud are about 16" from each edge of the sheet. If you have some warped studs, the further the glue is standing up off the stud, the better chance is has of making contact with the back of the sheet.
Two blobs per stud down the length of the sheet. Don't glue the **** or a corner-- it isn't necessary because you're nailing (or screwing) those, plus you'll get glue all over you. Hang the sheet.
Next sheet: two blobs per stud, 1/3 in from each edge, etc, etc, etc.
The good glue is
Miracle DSA-20, available at any drywall supply, and maybe Home Depot or Lowes. If you have any left it works fine as a general construction adhesive too. Using individual blobs makes it go quite a ways too. One tube will do an average sized bedroom. I know you're not doing bedrooms, but you get the idea.
