3/8" Breaker Bar Question: Snap On vs. Proto

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

I'm looking for a 3/8" x 12" breaker bar. Here are the two I'm considering:

Snapon: F12LA ($58.95)
Proto: J5266 ($25.95)

I recall reading something about the head of the Snap On bars being stronger since the head is held on with a bolt, rather than being pinned like the Proto. I assume this makes it less likely to spread or break.

I assume they're pretty close in terms of functionality. Aside from the difference in price, can anyone with firsthand experience using these bars (or their 1/2" equivalents) please weight in with some real-world pros and cons on these two.

Much appreciated, thanks.

sberry · Oct 19, 2011

Proto, could buy 2

fvfvsix · Oct 19, 2011

I have the Proto. Very impressed with it.

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

fvfvsix said:
I have the Proto. Very impressed with it.

Thanks for the reply.

I know it's a 3/8" bar we're talking about, and I'm not planning on standing on the thing, etc., but has the head on your Proto spread at all? Any noticeable flex in the bar itself?

NastyNate · Oct 19, 2011

I bought an old Proto a few years back and it has seen better days. I use it as my number one breaker bar for those rough jobs and I love it to death. From a $$$ issue I would go with Proto. Warranty (probably never need) I would go with proto as well. Sure snapon warranty could be easier to swap out on a truck but why not buy 2 and then the wait time for warranty is not an issue.

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

sberry said:
Proto, could buy 2

I could buy the Snap On for twice the price, or yes, I could buy 2 Protos.

I only need one though.

I'm trying to determine if buying the Snap On is money well spent or not, in this instance.

otis66 · Oct 19, 2011

If you can, get the Snap On. Pin or bolt you will not regret it.

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

Nate, is the bar you have a 3/8" or 1/2"?

I'm thinking given the 3/8" bars I'm considering, it might pay to have something that's overbuilt. No?

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

otis66 said:
If you can, get the Snap On. Pin or bolt you will not regret it.

From the SO website, the 3/8" bar looks like it's only available with a bolt. Do you know what the difference is between the bolt and pin design, other than the bolt design being rebuildable?

fvfvsix · Oct 19, 2011

bob08 said:
Thanks for the reply.

I know it's a 3/8" bar we're talking about, and I'm not planning on standing on the thing, etc., but has the head on your Proto spread at all? Any noticeable flex in the bar itself?

I haven't really beat on it, as I have a 14 inch 1/2" Kobalt bar that I use for lug nuts and heavier tasks. It gets used building AR uppers, usually attached to a strap wrench. So far, no spreading and no noticeable flex. The harshest task it'll ever see is removing a transmission drain bolt on a Civic.

SMKS · Oct 19, 2011

To the op-

Post some links or pics of the ones you're considering.

I would be leaning towards Proto. Maybe not as flashy, but the Proto tools I've owned have all been top notch.

davesnothere · Oct 19, 2011

What exactly do you find yourself needing a 3/8 breaker bar for? I have the snappy, but I've never used it, never thought about using it, and never got done fixing something and found myself saying, "damn, I shoulda used that 3/8 breaker."

vssjim · Oct 19, 2011

I never question the quality of Proto made tools. Broke alot more SO stuff than ever broke Proto

Lomotil · Oct 19, 2011

I vote Proto - fo sho.

(Sorry, couldn't resist the rhyme...)

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

davesnothere said:
What exactly do you find yourself needing a 3/8 breaker bar for? I have the snappy, but I've never used it, never thought about using it, and never got done fixing something and found myself saying, "damn, I shoulda used that 3/8 breaker."

Any situation where I need to use a 3/8" socket. Allen bolts on brake calipers come to mind. Yeah, I could just use a ratchet and more elbow grease, but I'm old and frail, so extra leverage is nice :thumbup:

Fedwrench · Oct 19, 2011

I would opt for a longer 3/8 drive flexhead ratchet for things like caliper bolts.
However, both breaker bar choices will serve you well. I would consider buying used to save more money.

G1GRANDEUR · Oct 19, 2011

I never needed 3/8 breaker bar.

3/8 long handle is the breaker bar. :thumbup:

Wakefield · Oct 19, 2011

Are some of the ratchet heads (say Wright's roundhead or Snap on's "80" as strong as the flex joints? Assuming that the flex joint and handle are shared between flex ratchets and flex handle "breaker bars" does that mean that the ratchet is as strong as the breaker bar?

DrkMtnDew · Oct 19, 2011

I really really like both of these brands. I would go with Proto on this because i personally don't use a 3/8'' breaker bar all that often, so i wouldn't want to pay SO price. but at the same time i would also have complete peace of mind knowing this Proto bar is of the best quality. warrentying SO and Proto in my expirience has been quick and easy, so no worries there.

bob08 · Oct 19, 2011

Thanks for the input everybody. The Proto seems to be getting alot of thumbs-up here, and that's nice to hear, especially since the SO is over twice the price.

Can anyone speak to the real-world differences (if any) between the bolt vs pin head design? Is one stronger than the other?

Fedwrench · Oct 19, 2011

bob08 said:
Thanks for the input everybody. The Proto seems to be getting alot of thumbs-up here, and that's nice to hear, especially since the SO is over twice the price.

Can anyone speak to the real-world differences (if any) between the bolt vs pin head design? Is one stronger than the other?

I think the only advantage between the two designs is that if the the hinge handle spreads slightly, you may be able to tighten it up some. I don't see a difference in strength. Most half inch drive breaker bar failures I've seen have been the square drive shearing off or an ear breaking. I haven't seen any 3/8 drive breaker bar failures but, they're kind of a low use item.

DrkMtnDew · Oct 19, 2011

bob08 said:
Can anyone speak to the real-world differences (if any) between the bolt vs pin head design? Is one stronger than the other?

not so much in the breaker bars as the ratchets. if you are lucky enough to have screw you can tighten up a floppy head. with a breaker bar it really doesn't matter.

otis66 · Oct 20, 2011

bob08 said:
From the SO website, the 3/8" bar looks like it's only available with a bolt. Do you know what the difference is between the bolt and pin design, other than the bolt design being rebuildable?

The breaker bar with the bolt can be tightened if it becomes too loose. I have never had this problem. I have both the old style breaker bar an the breaker bar with a bolt. Both are great tools. Both bolt and pin type breaker bars can be rebuilt.

treasureseeker · Oct 20, 2011

I don't like the smooth handle breaker bars. I have the Snap on with the comfort handle but prefer knurled like the Proto J5266.

Seanbev24 · Oct 20, 2011

The only time I ever use a 3/8" breaker bar is to put a pipe on it. That situation is when something is very tight but I don't have the space for a 1/2" ratchet head. Mine is an Allen, which has held up great to it's rare use/abuse.

garfunkle24 · Oct 20, 2011

I've had a Snap-on one for ten years+ and haven't used it yet. I'd say get a long flex ratchet or if you're set on a breaker bar, get the Proto. Definitely not a high use item.

MattPersman · Oct 20, 2011

i have the snap on an used it a few times over the years. don't really remember what exact task but it made the job easier for some reason. never seen the proto but I am sure it is nice

4x4gearhead · Oct 20, 2011

If proto still has the same good ole quality I would just go with that

Wakefield · Oct 20, 2011

otis66 said:
The breaker bar with the bolt can be tightened if it becomes too loose. I have never had this problem. I have both the old style breaker bar an the breaker bar with a bolt. Both are great tools. Both bolt and pin type breaker bars can be rebuilt.

Isn't the bolt supposed to be kept tight all of the time (unless you want to take it apart)-like snugged up short arm Allen key tight? In other words you are not supposed to have the bolt loose in order to try to make the joint more flexible?

sberry · Oct 20, 2011

Its such a simple tool almost any would do, had a craftsman or 2 and must have lost them, haven't seen them in years and haven't replaced, maybe one of these days.

HandyManny · Oct 20, 2011

sberry said:
Its such a simple tool almost any would do, had a craftsman or 2 and must have lost them, haven't seen them in years and haven't replaced, maybe one of these days.

I agree. Just about any good brand breaker bar will work just as well. I can't see the Snap-On or the Proto being any stronger than one another when it comes to such a simple tool. Both are professional grade hand tools. I've always had a preference for Proto hand tools going back years, but I've also used Craftsman breakers on some really stubborn large stuff before and never had an issue with them either. What makes anyone think that a bolt version would be any stronger than the pinned version? Only difference is threading vs friction, and the ability to snug up the threaded bolt version to vary the ease of moveability of the square drive. That's it. As long that the entire tools few components are made of quality materials and heat-treated properly, and used within it's capacity, there should be no issues.

Sterff · Oct 20, 2011

Matco has a new breaker bar but, it is 10"...

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/B10FH/3-8-DR-10-LONG-BREAKER-BAR/

rlb1953 · Oct 20, 2011

I vote Proto because of the knurled handle.

90% of the time I use a 3/8 breaker bar is because I want to break a bolt loose, flip the handle strait, and spin the bolt out like a nut driver. (especially when working on small engines) Knurling makes a difference when my hands are greasy.

Roger

tube_guy · Oct 20, 2011

When I was a kid, I remember asking my Dad why anyone would use a 3/8" drive breaker bar. Why not just use a ratchet? His reply was that the small breaker bar can fit into much tighter places than a big ratchet head can. I kind of shook my head. Fast forward some years and I'm changing the timing belt on my girlfriend's 1986 Ford ******. When trying to remove the crank bolt, the crank pulley was so close to the frame rail, not even a 1/2" drive breaker bar head would fit in the available clearance. There were no access holes in the rail and I couldn’t tilt the motor around enough to gain the clearance. The only thing I had that would fit was a 3/8" drive breaker bar. Used that and rather easily removed the crank bolt. Damn if my Dad wasn’t right.

I would buy the breaker bar with the smallest head. That would be the most useful tool and both have lifetime warrantees, so if the one with less material breaks it’s on the tool company.

ekeller · Oct 20, 2011

I have the snap on, used it like 1 time in 10 years. Take my advise and buy a long handle, locking flex head snap on ratchet.

wornoutoldman · Oct 20, 2011

As a dealer tech for twenty years my (mostly) SO tools took serious abuse day in and day out. My 3/8 breaker bar is an older SO pin type and it has been used ALOT. There are no signs of anything getting loose. But if it did it's an EZ replacement. If your not using yours in a professional envirnment save the extra dough and buy the Proto. They make great tools too.

JSBriggs · Oct 20, 2011

I think both are quality and will perform well, it comes down to what you prefer, smooth or knurled.

-Jeff

bob08 · Oct 20, 2011

Good posts, thanks to everyone who responded to my questions.

I ordered up the Proto from McMaster-Carr for $25.78.

dankicksass · Oct 20, 2011

I went with a Williams dual-ended 1/2-3/8 model from Harry Epstein when I wanted a new 3/8 breaker bar.

blarf · Oct 20, 2011

sberry said:
Its such a simple tool almost any would do, had a craftsman or 2 and must have lost them, haven't seen them in years and haven't replaced, maybe one of these days.

You'd think. I've got two breaker bars, both Craftsman. One 3/8" and one 1/2" drive. Both have enough slop in the head to prevent their use in tight spaces. Neither have seen much, if any, abuse. The 1/2" unit replaced an old S-K one that grew legs at the junkyard. The S-K was much nicer with its knurled and broached grip. They will, at some point, both be replaced by non-Craftsman breaker bars.

tube_guy said:
When I was a kid, I remember asking my Dad why anyone would use a 3/8" drive breaker bar. Why not just use a ratchet? His reply was that the small breaker bar can fit into much tighter places than a big ratchet head can.

Lower sliding pin, rear brakes, BMW E39 5-series. Ugh. You've got room for a 7mm key or, in my case, a T45 bit + breaker bar to remove the pin you've just rounded off by trying to use a 7mm bit + ratchet.

3/8" Breaker Bar Question: Snap On vs. Proto

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