Cutting Aluminum with Table Saw

A little while ago, I made a trade with a neighbor of mine. We have very similar vehicles (Large, older, white, Ford trucks). His is the big Ford Bronco and mine is the Ford E350 15-passenger van. I lucked out when buying the van...I found a van that was 20 years old, with only 10 thousand real miles on it. It was from a government motor pool and it was the van set up for 'long trips.' It had nice Yakima bars on the top, with a huge 'safari rack' attached to it. Since it was set up for long trips, it looks like nobody was interested in driving it on shorter trips...so it only racked up 10,000 miles in 20 years.

It didn't take me long to figure out I really didn't need the rack. I pulled out the back two seats to give me some cargo room. (The van is HUGE...I can put 8 bicycles and 8 people inside, in comfort, at the same time. I've even brought home 16-foot pieces of metal inside the van, with the doors closed. if I pull out the back three seats, I can stack full sheets of plywood from floor to ceiling and still have room for 5 people up front) So, I took the rack and bars off, with the intent of eventually cleaning them up, sanding them, repainting them, and selling them.

I got to talking with a neighbor across the street, who is a contractor, and he asked how much I wanted for the rack. We had talked already about a price for me buying a spare contractor's table saw he had. I told him that an even swap for the table saw would be fine with me. Deal done! We both got something that was valuable to us, and the other person had no real need for the object he gave up.

I've always wanted a table saw. I have always had to borrow someone's whenever I needed one. It is really the first full-size piece of shop power equipment I have. I have a few bench tools (grinder, drill press, and belt/disc sander). I don't really have the room to set the table saw up IN the shop now, but I have a small patio behind the house, where I can work on larger projects.

Here is the saw...an older Craftsman contractor's table saw. It has a 15amp, direct-drive motor. It looks a little rusty, but it purrs when you turn it on...
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Since I primarily work in aluminum, I want to be able to cut metal with my table saw. I've heard it can be done, even with standard woodworking blades, but Home Depot happened to have a 10" Non-Ferrous blade available for around $60. I decided to give it a try...
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Those little squiggly lines have a silicon-feeling, squishy substance in them...
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This is the aluminum sheet I was cutting, 1/4" thick. It will be used as the back plate for the light brackets I am building for the Pelton & Crane dental lights...
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At the end of the first cut. It cuts aluminum beautifully! The edges will need very little cleaning up. The only bad thing is that it throws tiny aluminum shavings EVERYWHERE. I found aluminum shavings in places I didn't know I had places. It took a while to sweep up the patio after these cuts...
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Now you can start to see the final design of the light brackets coming together. The basic design is four intersecting parabolas. After reading SHOPNUT's reply above, I've decided I need a little more side-to-side rigidity in the design, so I am working on another brace to put in the center section...
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Here is the back plate up against a music equipment rack, which is a clue about where I am going with this project...and a little clue into a project I have been working on, but have not shared with you guys yet.
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I hope you used the fence to make those cuts...

Not using a rip fence when ripping is a good way to cut your fingers instead of your workpiece.

You can rig up a shop-vac hose overhead, over the front of the blade and it might help with the chips. Same concept as this:


Dunno how well it will work with metal chips - sawdust is lighter.

I have seen the table saw where I work cut the pieces for several boats, and yes it works very well. Nice lights they work very well Too.

PORPHYRE: Yep...I guess it wasn't obvious in the pics, but I definitely did us a fence. Unfortunately, the saw did not come with the blade guard...so I will have to at least build a splitter/follower for it, even if I cannot find a blade guard. I have the materials to make a blade guard, if I cannot find one. Thanks for the safety info...I tend to be a safety freak.

STEEL 35: Thanks...I cannot wait to get the brackets finished and get them on the wall. Should be a great conversation piece, as well as a functional part of the shop.

Ooops...just realized my 'after cut' picture was the same as my 'before cut' picture. Here is the real after-cut picture.

At the end of the first cut. It cuts aluminum beautifully! The edges will need very little cleaning up. The only bad thing is that it throws tiny aluminum shavings EVERYWHERE. I found aluminum shavings in places I didn't know I had places. It took a while to sweep up the patio after these cuts...
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I don't have a picture which shows the fence in use...but as a contractors saw, parts of the table slide out to allow you to work with wider material and you just don't see the table outrigger and fence with the extreme closeup shot I took.

Damn, that is a lot of swarf flying around. You'll also want to make a zero clearance insert. That will help control the chips and things too.

If you cut anything thicker than 1/4" you might consider using wax as a lubricant to keep the teeth from loading up. I've cut a lot of aluminum plate (up to 2") with a Skill saw and wax was a big help. McMaster Carr sells one pound sticks of cutting wax for $12. It'll also improve the finish on 1/4" plate.

Tom

+1 on the wax.
I worked at a place where we did a lot of manufacturing for one-off electronic stuff and made the chassis and boxes in aluminium. We used a standard cast- iron old table saw with an alu-blade.
Another way to improve the quality of the cut, reduce friction and get a real nice finish on the cut surfaces is to use denaturated spirits that is fed by a low volume sprayer straigt onto the blade just 20 mmm before the cut.
Prevents the hard alu-oxide from forming and gives a real nice cut.
Same procedure is great for milling, drilling and threading in aluminium.

Best regards

Ola

Now here is a thought. What about sealing the motor, and wiring off to allow for a flood cooling system? That, with a shield should about eliminate swarf shrapnel.

TLGRIFF & MBFREAK: Thanks for the tips on cutting aluminum. I'll have to get a block of wax. I think I might even end up putting a fine coat of wax on the saw table. The pieces didn't slide very easily and it was tough to keep them lined up properly.

PORPHYRE: I was thinking the same thing today...this blade really needs a zero-clearance insert. This is only my second time using this saw, since it was a trade for a safari rack a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to put that on my list of projects.

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QUESTION: For anyone who has experience with it...I use the 3M Roloc Surface Conditioning discs to clean up this aluminum plate...how do you keep it from loading up so quickly? It seems like the coarser the disc, the quicker it loads up (then starts scratching the surface of the disc).
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I really usually work in sheet aluminum. I would not have even usually had 1/4" plate at home, but it looked too cool at the scrap yard to pass up, so I bought it. When I decided to build these two light brackets for dental lights, I knew I had found the perfect use for that 1/4" plate. These lights put a lot of force on the brackets, since they are on 5-foot (just under 2 meters) articulating arms and the 1/4" thick plate should do a great job of resisting that force.

The really cool thing is that I completely designed this project on paper and cut out a few parts...then thought about whether or not I would have enough metal to make the back plates. Fortunately, this one sheet of 1/4" plate ended up being pretty much exactly the right size for making the two brackets I needed.

Here are a few more pictures. I needed a couple of more rectangular pieces for the current project, the dental light brackets. I have been wracking my brain, trying to figure out how to give the brackets a little more lateral stability. I came up with some pretty complex answers...but decided on simple instead. It would have been a shame to set up the saw just to cut a couple of pieces.

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I went ahead and cut a lot of pieces for my next project...which you will see on my Aerodrome Studio thread very soon. I will need a lot of rectangular pieces, 19" long, in several widths.

Setting the table saw up for a miter cut and making the cut...
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Beginning of a rip cut...
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---WE PAUSE THE PICTURES NOW, FOR CAMERA OPERATOR...ERRR 'TECHNICAL' DIFFICULTIES---


(feel free to talk among yourselves)


---WE NOW RESUME OUR REGULARLY-SCHEDULED THREAD---

I thought some of you might be interested in seeing the tooth pattern on this saw blade, the Diablo 'non-ferrous' metal blade...
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The unbelievable amount of aluminum chips, after cutting a few pieces.
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My new (to me) saw, all folded up in the storage position. This has some nice features. There is a place to store extra blades and the electric cord has an automatic reel. It also has a direct-drive, 15-amp motor.
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The stack of 1/8" (0.125") aluminum plate I ended with...all cut up and put away for my next project...
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machine_punk said:

TLGRIFF & MBFREAK: ...PORPHYRE: I was thinking the same thing today...this blade really needs a zero-clearance insert. This is only my second time using this saw, since it was a trade for a safari rack a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to put that on my list of projects.

...

Click to expand...

You can make your own zero-clearance inserts fairly cheaply. In case you don't know it your insert is the square red piece around the blade. Pull it off, find a piece of wood about the same thickness (my saw uses 5/8") and cut you a new insert. When you put the insert on put the blade all the way down and put the fence off to one side of where the blade should come through. Then raise the blade cutting through the new insert.

Make several blanks and keep them around. You will eventually use them all and have to make more.

BTW: You've got it easy... your inserts are rectangular (easy to size). Mine are oval. The easiest way I've found to make inserts is with a "patterning" bit and a piece of double stick tape.

MDBECK1: Thanks for the quick tutorial on zero-clearance inserts...I've never had my own table saw before, I've always borrowed one, when needed. I've been known to have my own saw blades, even when I had to use someone else's shop and saw.

It will be easier to make square inserts. The more I use this saw, the more evidence i see of good design in this saw.

machine_punk said:

MDBECK1: Thanks for the quick tutorial on zero-clearance inserts...I've never had my own table saw before, I've always borrowed one, when needed. I've been known to have my own saw blades, even when I had to use someone else's shop and saw.

It will be easier to make square inserts. The more I use this saw, the more evidence i see of good design in this saw.

Click to expand...

It's an honor to be able to educate people. I noticed you wrote that you were fairly new to table saws and I have some knowledge in this area that I thought you might benefit from. The people that I learned to work word from (a cousin in my youth) would create his own zero-clearance inserts when he got new saw blades. That insert would follow the blade until it (the insert) was too worn to use. Then another was put into service.


BTW: What saw blade are you using? I've cut some thin aluminum but never tried any thicker stuff.

mdbeck1 said:

It's an honor to be able to educate people. I noticed you wrote that you were fairly new to table saws and I have some knowledge in this area that I thought you might benefit from. The people that I learned to work word from (a cousin in my youth) would create his own zero-clearance inserts when he got new saw blades. That insert would follow the blade until it (the insert) was too worn to use. Then another was put into service.


BTW: What saw blade are you using? I've cut some thin aluminum but never tried any thicker stuff.

Click to expand...

For sheet metal check this out: http://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/sawblade.html

I'm not sure if the op knows this but to use the wax it should be smeared on the top of the plate you are cutting along the cut line, wouldn't hurt to coat the side of the blade with the wax too.

I would also suggest you looking for an old cast iron table saw (antique can be had for 1/10th the cost of a comparable new cast iron one). Portability may be considerably worse and cut quality won't be much better than with that saw but accuracy and precision will increase if you use a good fence (most stock fences **** IMHO). Something that may be able to help you now is a crosscut table for your existing saw.

MDBECK: I am using the Freud Diablo, Laminate/Non-Ferrous, Miter/Table saw blade. I've been watching for one online, but was surprised to find one at Home Depot the other day. I think I got it for just a hair over $60.

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SLOPECARVER: Thanks for the link on sheet metal!

Getting a cabinet saw really isn't an option for me right now. I got this saw 'free' (in trade for something I didn't want anymore). It is older (i.e. not the new tin-can garbage) and seems accurate enough for my needs. I've cut materials with table saws costing literally thousands of dollars and I've cut materials with a straight edge, a clamp, and a 25-year-old circular saw. It definitely takes more time and effort to do it well with handheld power tools, but it is still possible to do a good job. The cuts I made today were square, straight, and exactly what I specified dimensionally...and then I folded the saw up when I was done and stored it in the corner--which is great, because all I have to work in is one half of a two-car attached garage. While I agree that it is neat to have the coolest, greatest, and biggest--sometimes we just have to use what we have.

I'll have to think about the cross-cut table. I've seen them used, but never used one myself. I'll have to consider how that might make what I do better.

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Machine punk - That blade uses what's called a triple chip grind. Those blades are great for cutting hard things. Metal, hard plastics, etc.

I want to add a bit to MDBeck's info on ZCI's. You've got to clamp a sacrificial board over the top of the insert. Otherwise, as soon as the blade hits it, the insert blank will go flying off instead of being cut. Just a small detail. I recommend using plywood or MDF to make the inserts. It's more dimensionally stable over a wide range of temperature/moisture than non-engineered wood. Depending on the exact thickness needed, you may also need to get some set screws to adjust the height. Believe it or not, they're available at Lowes for high, but not ridiculous prices.

Read this: http://www.rockler.com/articles/zero-clearance-table-saw-inserts.cfm

Buy some Johnson's Paste Wax (any hardware store will have it) and put a couple coats on the top of the saw and on the face of your fence. Stock will slide more easily.

I recall you mentioning the blade guard was missing. You can buy new ones from Sears: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

I just checked a currently sold saw similar to yours and the bladeguard assembly was only $35 + shipping... cheaper than a finger!

I have been reading about cutting aluminum with a tablesaw for awhile. I may have to pony up for a blade to do it. I have a big delta unisaw and sure would like to be able to make cuts in metal as nicely as I do wood with that saw.

The idea of a kickback with a sheet of 1/4" plate scares the hell out of me though. I am sure it's not as dangerous in reality as it is in my head.

Thank you for sharing.

Depending on the thickness of your current insert, you might have a piece of aluminum in your cutoff pile that might work.

Charles

Yup, the tooth pattern on that non-ferrous blade is a "triple-chip grind".

http://www.freudtools.com/

http://www.freudtools.com/t-blade_selector.aspx

In PDF formet:

http://www.freudtools.com/images/PDF/SB-Sel-Chart-2008.pdf

http://www.diablotools.com/

Right to the ~10inch blades:

http://www.diablotools.com/blades-10.html

Where Freud's 'recommended' blade for cutting non-ferrous metals (mostly aluminum here) is actually the D1080N and not the D1084L (which is listed for use in cutting laminates, hence the "L" in the product name/number whereas the D1080N has the "N" for "non-ferrous"). Other differences besides the number of teeth are also the "hook angle" and the kerf width.

Many blades can cut different things. Some blades can cut some things 'better'. Just saying. YMMV.

Also a +36 on putting a zero-clearance insert there. Not so much to support the work (one usual 'primary' purpose of a zero-clearance insert), but to keep the swarf (the chips and 'sawdust' when those chips and 'dust are NOT made of wood) out of the guts of the machine. And circular saws (portable or a table saw or what not) cutting metals (with the appropriate blade) do indeed makes LOTS of chips (swarf).

When putting the ZCI in and making the cut through it, you certainly do have to clamp it down/in-place so the rising saw blade doesn't just lift the insert and then launch it at ~149 mph (for a 10inch blade at 5000 rpm). One quick and easy way to do that is often to just put the rip fence carefully over the insert but NOT over the blade and then slowly and carefully raise the blade. You may have to add another clamp onto the rip fence if it does not lock down against raising. Or just clamp a piece of wood over the insert and slowly and carefully raise the blade through the insert.

Which comes to the next point. Yes, you can cut (some) aluminum on a table saw. And sometimes that is a 'good' tool choice to do so. But it is still a table saw, and not a primarily metal-working machine. So I wouldn't really go looking to rig up a flood coolant system onto a table saw, fer instance. The motor is not fluid resistant, neither are the switch(es) or bearings or controls.

Next. Yes a coat of paste wax on the table top of the saw helps the workpiece to glide/slide a bit easier. And is pretty much 'required' [or some other coating type such as BoeShield (sp) ] if the table top is cast iron unless one desires to have a rusty saw top which is even grittier and harder to slide a workpiece on and which gets rust stains onto everything.

And yes, a kickback on a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum would be pretty nasty. Be careful.

I use my miter saw for cutting Aluminum all the time.
Here is a shot of my setup.



I use wax in a tube as a lube.



I don't know about you guys, but table saws freak me out.I just hate having to use one.

240sxguy said:

The idea of a kickback with a sheet of 1/4" plate scares the hell out of me though. I am sure it's not as dangerous in reality as it is in my head.

Click to expand...

I had a piece of plywood bounce off my gut and then around the shop knocking over a trash can containing metal scrap. I blacked out from the impact.

Cutting a metal plate would scare me. Be careful and have the phone nearby.