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Repair epoxied floors for fabricators

HHStang

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
63
Location
Coastal SC
I built my mega garage a few years ago back, then started building hot rods in it. I've welded, ground and sanded and trashed the pretty floors I once had.

How can I refinish them and what should I put on the floors when I build my new and improved car barn this winter?

Thanks!
 
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timgr

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Joined
Dec 19, 2006
Messages
544
Location
Medford, MA USA
Methinks the problem is the topic's been covered ad nauseum in the past. Nobody has anything new to add.
 

Deacon

Active member
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
36
Location
Portland, Or
I have been actively investigating flooring and the caution you should note with polished floors is when wet they are incredibly slippery. I ride bikes and I can just see pulling in and having my foot slip out from under me. Race Deck is providing some pretty good pricing to members of this board and I am headed in that direction.

I have come to the conclusion that acrylic coatings are the best but also very expensive. Every applicator I have talked to has limited warranties on epoxy finishes due to moisture coming through the slab even with a moisture barrier. Hot/warm tires will cause separation even when the floor is shot blasted.

Deacon
 

Hammerdown

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Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
596
Location
The Motor City
Search this section for advice on floor coatings, as everyone has a different opinion on which one works better. Most coating applications will require you to clean and degrease the floor and do a muriactic acid wash. There are particulars to each different product, so do some research into which coating should provide for your needs the best. I have a favorite, and every member on here probably does as well, and they all may be different. Let us know how you proceed.
 
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Hammerdown

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Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
596
Location
The Motor City
Do you have an existing coating on the floor now? It is hard to tell form your post and I assumed you did not. If you do and they have good adhesion to the floor ( no peeling or lifting of the coating), clean and degrease, and then scuff sand the existing coating with a 60-80 grit sand paper to create a mechanical profile, remove the debris and then apply the new coating. The new coating will be relying on the existing coatings adhesion, so make sure it is sound.
 

SC-Eric

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Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
833
Location
Spartanburg, SC
I have come to the conclusion that acrylic coatings are the best but also very expensive.

:headscrat

Could you explain how you came to this conclusion? In general, acrylics are about as cheap as you can get and have the weakest bondstrength you can possibly get. Any 2-component coating (epoxy, urethane, polyaspartic) should beat the pants off of any acrylic. Did you mean something else?
 

thegarageguy

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Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
1,489
Location
NJ
:headscrat

Could you explain how you came to this conclusion? In general, acrylics are about as cheap as you can get and have the weakest bondstrength you can possibly get. Any 2-component coating (epoxy, urethane, polyaspartic) should beat the pants off of any acrylic. Did you mean something else?

Im curious to know what acrylic YOU (Wolverine) are talking about? The acrylic I know, Methyl Methacrylate or MMA is widely used in car dealerships, warehouse and a variety of industrial areas that require minimal dowtime that cannot be afforded by epoxies. The MMA I know isn't cheap, is not sold over the counter or through a website and requires seasoned professionals to apply it. Maybe you, Woverine meant something else? :headscrat

BTW Deacon, I have applicated on moister sensitive concrete with much success. Not only in garages but basements too. Like anything in life, you get what you pay for. You pay penuts and you get monkeys. Find a real industrial epoxy manufacturer in your area, call them and ask for a qualified applicator.
 
OP
H

HHStang

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
63
Location
Coastal SC
Do you have an existing coating on the floor now?


I have the 2 part Rustoleum (I think it was that anyway??) I bought from Lowes that looked and performed wonderfully, until: I ground metal on it, welded on it, brazed on it, plasma cuttered on it, dropped hot metal cuttings on it, laid fiberglass on it, +++++

Got the picture?

I TRASHED my wonderful floor. The house its in is for sale, so I'd like to make it look "nicer" (to help sell it) and need to plan my next "Taj Ma Garage"'s floor.


Thanks all!
 

PAToyota

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
If you are looking to recoat for resale, I'd rent a floor sander, scuff it all up, and then repaint it.

If you were going to be staying there and continuing to do fab work I'd be looking at polishing the floor - which is what I'd recommend in your new place. No coating is going to stand up to welding, scraping, etc...
 

boiler7904

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Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
3,414
Location
NW IN
If you are looking to recoat for resale, I'd rent a floor sander, scuff it all up, and then repaint it.

If you were going to be staying there and continuing to do fab work I'd be looking at polishing the floor - which is what I'd recommend in your new place. No coating is going to stand up to welding, scraping, etc...

:+1: I'd go the same route
 
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