I have a "sticking" garage door with an automatic opener that is likely due to lack of lubrication. I found some old threads that recommended spraying the track channels but I thought that would attract more dirt? Also, would spray white lithium grease work better/worse than silicone? What about Fluid Film or Break-Free CLP? The garage is not fully insulated but stays fairly dry.
Garage Door Lubrication Questions
- Thread starter netbrad
- Start date
Buford T. Justice
Well-known member
^^^this.
A close 2nd is Tri-Flow with Teflon. Works wonders.
A close 2nd is Tri-Flow with Teflon. Works wonders.
Gary S
Well-known member
I use a synthetic grease to lube my tracks and wheels. It doesn't break down or get hard like petroleum based greases, and it doesn't collect dust readily either.
porcupine73
Well-known member
I use Kanolabs gear-rope on the cables. I have worm/screw drive garage door openers. I think it said something about using only a certain type of grease on the drive mechanism. I believe it is simply silicone grease. I'm thinking they just don't want petroleum based grease on it because of the plastic parts in it.
Zeke
Well-known member
I don't think the wheels to track need anything but being clean. Lube the shafts to the wheels regularly. Sticking could be a lot of things. You might want to observe the operation of the door each side, You can place a stick on various surfaces to feel any hiccups. Keep your hands off the thing.
GreyOwl
Well-known member
Disconnect the opener and run the door by hand to find out where it is sticking and go from there.
It might even be the opener instead of the door.
Charles
It might even be the opener instead of the door.
Charles
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
+2!
When the pro installed my 14'x14 door he told me to use this stuff every year and even left a can.
Chris
Thanks for the suggestions. We haven't had an issue unless it is cold. We bought the house in May and I don't think any maintenance has ever been performed on the door. I'll start simple with the lubrication and work from there. It is an intermittent issue. The door will open/close all the way if we hit the remote again.
Will GDL work on the roller shafts or do I need a wetter lube?
Will GDL work on the roller shafts or do I need a wetter lube?
rlitman
Well-known member
THIS. Before you worry about lubrication, check this. If one spring is going, the uneven force racking the door will cause it to bind too.
The track channels do not need lubrication. The rollers should "roll". They need lubrication, as do the pulleys.
Works pretty well on sliding doors on pole barns too.
Al Bundy
Well-known member
I started to have this problem a couple years ago. Lubrication and adjusting the door did nothing to alleviate the problem. Finally the opener quit working altogether. When I opened it up I found a huge pile of shavings where the drive gear was supposed to be. 
It was 20 years old and my wife used the overhead door to go in and out every time she left the house. She would even use it to let the dog out.
It was 20 years old and my wife used the overhead door to go in and out every time she left the house. She would even use it to let the dog out.
upndown
Well-known member
Lubriplate- for screw drive openers, comes in a tube. for rollers any type of spray lube, oil can works great too!! no grease etc. in tracks!
rwhite692
Well-known member
I highly doubt that your problem has anything to do with rollers/track.
You did not indicate, but I'll bet your opener is a Genie screw drive or similar.
If it is worse when cold, the problem is most likely that the lube on the long threaded drive screw is all dried up, caked with dirt, etc.
Cold temp makes it worse as the grease (or what is left of it) becomes more viscous.
Clean and re-lube.
Or wait for Spring and the problem will magically go away, LOL.
You did not indicate, but I'll bet your opener is a Genie screw drive or similar.
If it is worse when cold, the problem is most likely that the lube on the long threaded drive screw is all dried up, caked with dirt, etc.
Cold temp makes it worse as the grease (or what is left of it) becomes more viscous.
Clean and re-lube.
Or wait for Spring and the problem will magically go away, LOL.
Last edited:
Air_Cooled_Nut
Well-known member
Try adjusting the door opener force settings (reverse safety mechanism). Sometimes they need to be bumped up a little bit to reduce the sensitivity.
Brentocool
Well-known member
the pro's use plain motor oil 
It is a Craftsman model 139.18070 chain drive opener. I don't see any uneven pulling but I haven't had time to troubleshoot much with Christmas and an upcoming baby. I did notice there is no central door spring, it looks like the springs are on each end of the main roller? Maybe one is not required for my setup.
Brentocool
Well-known member
Sounds like you have a exstension spring door. they have never worked good! And there dangerous!! And dont work well with openers.
. they have never worked good! And there dangerous!! And dont work well with openers.ForceFed70
Well-known member
My new garage doors came with big stickers saying DO NOT lube the tracks.
Manual says to do the bearings and hinges only.
Manual says to do the bearings and hinges only.
Here are some pictures:
It looks like the trolley rail flexes down a little as the trolley moves across which causes the trolley to stop. I'm guessing this is normal but I don't see any lubrication on that rail so that may be where it is binding up.
It looks like the trolley rail flexes down a little as the trolley moves across which causes the trolley to stop. I'm guessing this is normal but I don't see any lubrication on that rail so that may be where it is binding up.
Davd_Pa
Member
That's really weird. I've never seen one like that before. Our double door had only one overhead spring which the guy told me isn't that safe (because of what happens to the door when the spring goes). We just got new doors installed and the temp difference in the garage is amazing! so far the lowest its been outside is ~15 degrees. In the garage (which is on the windy side of the house) the garage was a balmy 53 w/out any external heat source. If you have old wood doors, or loose a ton of heat out the garage it's money well spent and certainly more of an enjoyable time in the garage.
Dave
Dave
That is a Wayne Dalton door. It has a internal spring that you tension with a drill on the left side. I think it's just a 3/8's or 7/16" drive nut. Disengauge the opener and make sure the door opens and closes smoothly. If all is well on the door it's In the opener. Most of the Craftsman brand have a plastic gear drive set and wear out pretty easily. Replace BOTH the gear and the worm as a set. Cost is $35.00 to $50.00 a set.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I know this is an old thread but what oil do you use for the torsion spring that is in the center of the garage door?
I've read everything from 3 to 1 oil, motor oil, and using grease?
Thanks,
-Nigel
I've read everything from 3 to 1 oil, motor oil, and using grease?
Thanks,
-Nigel
Jinks
Well-known member
I've never lubed the torsion spring. I have a 35 year old garage door on our 2 car garage. The motor failed just before Thanksgiving so I replaced it with a $200 Genie belt drive. That made it about 70% quieter so I went back & got the nylon rollers. They reduced the noise to just a few squeaks & groans, so I sprayed the hinges with silicone lube. You can't hear the door moving up or down! I was so impressed I purchased new nylon rollers for the shop 9 ft. door. It still has a chain opener, so it's not as quiet as the bigger door, but it's less than half the noise it was a week ago.