My Wolverine Coating Flooring

I guess it's a bit premature since I haven't yet received my kit from Wolverine. But here is what I'm doing.
After seeing the floor that 04Navi did a couple of months ago I thought I'd give this product a try. I did lots of reading and thinking before coming to this conclusion.
Instead of going through BudgetBob I decided to go directly to Wolverine and talked to Eric and subsequently Bill Coffey. It did take me some time to decide what colour etc I wanted to use but in the end I've decided to go with an ultra light grey with moody granite flakes. I was thinking that a bright blue might be nice, or even a white however after seeing a grey/moody grey combination that's the one I decided on.
For my ~1800 sq ft area I've ordered the following:

• 12 gallons (4 kits) of 1101 Bondtite (primary + top coat).
• 25 gallons (8 kits + 1 3 quart kit) of 1184 Liquatile (ultra light grey).
• 150lbs of moody granite flakes which will give me a reasonably heavy flake coating.
• 2 gallons of 1921 integraflex to fill a number of cracks and an expansion joint
• a couple of pairs of spiked shoes

I'm expecting delivery shortly (shipped last Thursday).

Here's my area I'm working on

It's basically made up of a smaller section (24*25) and a larger area (28*45). The smaller section was old structure and the larger area I just finished building.
For the last couple of weeks I've been grinding the smaller area since I didn't want to do any acid etching as the drainage is terrible and I was worried I wouldn't be able to get all the acid out. I also did a small area in the larger section just so I didn't need to acid etch right up to the old area.

I spent some time grinding the concrete between the 2 areas as there was a (very) small step. I wanted the 2 areas to just 'flow' together. In the end I guess I ground off more than 1/4". The expansion joint will be filled with integraflex

All up this grinding was probably 6 hours of work. But I work slow since this is meant to be an enjoyable experience
I was almost tempted to also grind the entire larger section but my knees had had enough. However, the Bosch grinder I used is a great tool. No dust and it does a really nice job. Compared to using my angle grinder to 'v' out the cracks; way too much dust.
Yesterday I recruited my neighbour (who is also going to help with the coating) to help out with the acid etch process. I did a 20% mix and used 5 gallons of muriatic acid. It didn't get much above 38 so a little cold but not too bad.
Used lots of water and neutralised with baking soda. Took a while but was definitely easier with a bit of help. Got a nice rough texture from the acid. A little coarser to the texture from the grinding.

Combined with setting the heat up a little higher last night and leaving the doors open today it seems to be drying nicely.

So far it's been alot of fun. Hopefully I'll be doing the coating shortly....

I have an order with Bob that has been in a couple of weeks but has not been shipped yet. What was the price difference between Bob and direct? I wonder if your order will be a reject product?

I ordered on the 4th and it was to ship on the 6th. I'm not sure of the price difference nor what arrangement Budget Bob has with Wolverine. I think since Eric (who posts on this board) mentioned that they are wanting to get into the DIY arena I just happened to annoy them at a good time and they sold directly to me. I must say it has been a good experience so far and they have been very helpful.

Just make sure you get a good 18" roller with an extendible handle. I got the rollers at Sherwin Williams. They need to be solvent rated. Good luck.

FFPL said:

I guess it's a bit premature since I haven't yet received my kit from Wolverine. But here is what I'm doing.
After seeing the floor that 04Navi did a couple of months ago I thought I'd give this product a try. I did lots of reading and thinking before coming to this conclusion.
Instead of going through BudgetBob I decided to go directly to Wolverine and talked to Eric and subsequently Bill Coffey. It did take me some time to decide what colour etc I wanted to use but in the end I've decided to go with an ultra light grey with moody granite flakes. I was thinking that a bright blue might be nice, or even a white however after seeing a grey/moody grey combination that's the one I decided on.
For my ~1800 sq ft area I've ordered the following:

• 12 gallons (4 kits) of 1101 Bondtite (primary + top coat).
• 25 gallons (8 kits + 1 3 quart kit) of 1184 Liquatile (ultra light grey).
• 150lbs of moody granite flakes which will give me a reasonably heavy flake coating.
• 2 gallons of 1921 integraflex to fill a number of cracks and an expansion joint
• a couple of pairs of spiked shoes

I'm expecting delivery shortly (shipped last Thursday).

Here's my area I'm working on

It's basically made up of a smaller section (24*25) and a larger area (28*45). The smaller section was old structure and the larger area I just finished building.
For the last couple of weeks I've been grinding the smaller area since I didn't want to do any acid etching as the drainage is terrible and I was worried I wouldn't be able to get all the acid out. I also did a small area in the larger section just so I didn't need to acid etch right up to the old area.

I spent some time grinding the concrete between the 2 areas as there was a (very) small step. I wanted the 2 areas to just 'flow' together. In the end I guess I ground off more than 1/4". The expansion joint will be filled with integraflex

All up this grinding was probably 6 hours of work. But I work slow since this is meant to be an enjoyable experience
I was almost tempted to also grind the entire larger section but my knees had had enough. However, the Bosch grinder I used is a great tool. No dust and it does a really nice job. Compared to using my angle grinder to 'v' out the cracks; way too much dust.
Yesterday I recruited my neighbour (who is also going to help with the coating) to help out with the acid etch process. I did a 20% mix and used 5 gallons of muriatic acid. It didn't get much above 38 so a little cold but not too bad.
Used lots of water and neutralised with baking soda. Took a while but was definitely easier with a bit of help. Got a nice rough texture from the acid. A little coarser to the texture from the grinding.

Combined with setting the heat up a little higher last night and leaving the doors open today it seems to be drying nicely.

So far it's been alot of fun. Hopefully I'll be doing the coating shortly....

Click to expand...

I just re-read your intial post and I've got to ask why did you order so much color and just enough clear?

For my almost 1500 sq ft floor I used 9 gallons clear and 9 color. The clear is split in half, (half used as primer although I would put the primer down thinner than half and save the rest for the clearcoat) and the color is not. I did barely run short to the tune of needing about a two quarts to finish and that was mostly because I screwed up by not filling the cracks first.

By my calcualtions you have a perfect amount for the clear, but way too much color to the tune of 2.0 times the amount you need. I can only guess that you are trying to put down 16mils of color, which for a DIY, could be overkill.

If you think about it as the floor wears down you will be putting more clear on and not color, so there is not a big advantage or need for such a thick color coat. Maybe I am missing something, but wow, your floor will be around for well, pretty much forever. It's going to be nice.

I have 1 kit clear and 1 kit color ordered for 800 sq. feet. after your experence, will I be ok with this amount? I will apply 5 pounds of flakes.

I want the overall coating to be thick and smooth. In the end it should be 5+20+5. I was originally thinking of just using clear (or the colour) and putting down 400 lbs of flake for a complete coverage. However I decided in the end that I wanted the liquatile to show through so just went for the heavy coverage.
Thanks for the info on the rollers. Bill at wolverine recommended the mohair blend wooster rollers.
Maybe I should have ordered more clear ?

How much flake did you use ?

I can't wait for progress, great info.

John

What temperature does it have to be in order to apply this flooring ??

According to the specs the slab needs to be at least 40f. Although I think Eric mentioned that it could be just a little below this.

FFPL said:

I want the overall coating to be thick and smooth. In the end it should be 5+20+5. I was originally thinking of just using clear (or the colour) and putting down 400 lbs of flake for a complete coverage. However I decided in the end that I wanted the liquatile to show through so just went for the heavy coverage.
Thanks for the info on the rollers. Bill at wolverine recommended the mohair blend wooster rollers.
Maybe I should have ordered more clear ?

How much flake did you use ?

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Not enough. I had bought some flakes from a member on this board and it seemed like enough, but I wish that I would have used more. I don't know the wieght.

I pretty much did a 4+8+4 and it is smooth. This stuff is not like the previous epoxy that I had used on our last house. There I used Griots Garage, and although it held up pretty good, it is water based and even after two coats you could still see the trowel marks.

With the Wolverine, with what I put down, you can't see the trowel marks, and I had a lousy pour. Trust me, it wasn't good.

As for the rollers, Eric I am sure knows what is good and I didn't mean to disagree with him, but when I bought my paint, I went through Budget Bob and so I found my own source for the rollers. I had bought three rollers, for the three steps and just threw them away. I had no seperation of the rollers at all, so I would use them again. In my opinion, 18" rollers with a extendable handle is a must.

[email protected] said:

I have 1 kit clear and 1 kit color ordered for 800 sq. feet. after your experence, will I be ok with this amount? I will apply 5 pounds of flakes.

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If you are talking the three gallon kit, then I would say no. You will have a somewhat thin finished product. Thats just my opinion though, and you are not taking into account waste. If you really like your garage, double your amount and man oh man it will be smoooooth.

BTW as for "waste" from the epoxy you should factor in about 15-20%. You can't get every bit out of the buckets, your roller holds a lot, and as for me I have to figure in the screw up factor.

Yes, I have the 3 gal. kits ordered. So should I order more clear and color or just color? My sq ft is actuily 720. Thanks for the help!

Holy ****... I can't keep up with you guys... lol...

FIRST, as I have mentioned a few other times, we are only going to sell direct to a few people who are willing to help us with our marketing... (10-20)... So, I guess we need to get busy and post up about that... With the exception of these 10-20 people that are willing to help us, Bob will be cheaper and there is going to be some lag time before we take DIY orders... or... get products stocked in local stores... We'll try to keep everyone posted as we move forward.

FFPL... nice grinder... Did you already have that or did you buy it jsut for this?

I ordered on the 4th and it was to ship on the 6th. I'm not sure of the price difference nor what arrangement Budget Bob has with Wolverine. I think since Eric (who posts on this board) mentioned that they are wanting to get into the DIY arena I just happened to annoy them at a good time and they sold directly to me. I must say it has been a good experience so far and they have been very helpful.

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lol... yeah... something like that... BUT... there was that contract about your firstborn child and you will owe us that left kidney... lol...

Just make sure you get a good 18" roller with an extendible handle. I got the rollers at Sherwin Williams. They need to be solvent rated. Good luck.

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Navi is right... but also... SHED/LINT FREE!!! Many people go for the 18" and some go for the 9"... There are also notched squeeges that can lay prodyuct out quickly and evenly and alot of people backroll with Mohair naps from Wooster. There is also a new roller cover from Wooster that we don't have enough feedback about yet to recommend... the epoxy glide. Has anyone used those yet?

I just re-read your intial post and I've got to ask why did you order so much color and just enough clear?

For my almost 1500 sq ft floor I used 9 gallons clear and 9 color. The clear is split in half, (half used as primer although I would put the primer down thinner than half and save the rest for the clearcoat) and the color is not. I did barely run short to the tune of needing about a two quarts to finish and that was mostly because I screwed up by not filling the cracks first.

By my calcualtions you have a perfect amount for the clear, but way too much color to the tune of 2.0 times the amount you need. I can only guess that you are trying to put down 16mils of color, which for a DIY, could be overkill.

If you think about it as the floor wears down you will be putting more clear on and not color, so there is not a big advantage or need for such a thick color coat. Maybe I am missing something, but wow, your floor will be around for well, pretty much forever. It's going to be nice.

Click to expand...

Navi's been doin' da math... lol... A thicker color coat will allow for more abuse AND will make it easier to fill more stuff if you needed to. Navi, remember that big wrench you dropped and it just bounced off? Double the thickness will increase that shock absorption to lower the odds of any damage. PLUS... No Worries... We'll make MORE! lol... j/k

Thanks for the info on the rollers. Bill at wolverine recommended the mohair blend wooster rollers.
Maybe I should have ordered more clear ?

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People like to use the Mohair to backroll with. For someone who is 'dipping and rolling' it's hard to get much paint on a Mohair because they have such a short nap. The improtant thing is... LINT/SHED FREE!!! The last thing you want is a bunch of nap hairs in your beautiful epoxy!

According to the specs the slab needs to be at least 40f. Although I think Eric mentioned that it could be just a little below this.

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We want the slab to be 40f with the temperature rising. We know people have put it down in even colder environments... BUT... we say 40f! The lower temperature will really slow down the cure... but... it will cure!

As for the rollers, Eric I am sure knows what is good and I didn't mean to disagree with him, but when I bought my paint, I went through Budget Bob and so I found my own source for the rollers. I had bought three rollers, for the three steps and just threw them away. I had no seperation of the rollers at all, so I would use them again. In my opinion, 18" rollers with a extendable handle is a must.

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There are not alot of absolutes here other than... *all together now... LINT/SHED FREE rollers... In my opinion, 18" goes faster and makes a more even floor as Navi said. I've never really given much thought to the extendable handle. It would be a must if you didn't wear spiked shoes. One thing is for sure... it couldn't hurt to have it! Thanks Navi! P.S. Did you have spiked shoes?

I have 1 kit clear and 1 kit color ordered for 800 sq. feet. after your experence, will I be ok with this amount? I will apply 5 pounds of flakes.

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That is an extremely thin coat! You're only going to have 6 mils MAX of color if you do a perfect job. In addition, to get your concrete primed properly, you really need to be thinking about 5 mils of primer which would only leave you enough from 1 mil of clear to go over the chips... If you split the BondTite 1101 and prime with 3 mils and use 3 mils over the chips, you're still going to have a better floor than Rustoleum... BUT... I'd recommend that you re-evaluate the budget and get some more stuff!

Yes, I have the 3 gal. kits ordered. So should I order more clear and color or just color? My sq ft is actuily 720. Thanks for the help!

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We recommend (minimums):
Primer: 5 mils (320 ft2 per gallon)
Color: 12 mils (133 ft2 per gallon)
Clear: 5 mils (320 ft2 per gallon) <- a little more if you have alot of chips!

Of course, people use less than we recommend all the time... Our product IS alot more durable per mill than other products... Obviously, Navi got great results with less than we recommend.

We just had one customer do a floor that is about 125 mils thick! (broadcasted color quartz with a holographic clear coat... we need to get some pics of that one on here... ) She said that she worked alot and there was no point skimping on the materials if she was going to spend the time to get the job done! Everyone is different...

If anyone has questions about their own specific floor... you might want to start a new thread for that... we're kind of highjacking FFPL's thread...

The way I did it was to just pour it out in strips basically, perpendicular to the way I was working and work my roller in the epoxy back and forth, while watching my usage per section that I was working.

The roller that I did use from Sherwin Williams did not, that I could tell, leave any lint behind.

As for Bondtite sticking or not sticking to something, I can tell you that I found something it won't stick too, nor should it in my opinion, and that is power trowled smooth cement that's been sealed. Keep in mind that this is outside in the freezing temps and only today did it flick off with the steel snow shovel.

Hopefully no one expected the Bondtite to stick EVERYTHING. lol

got home early tonight and found a delivery truck looking lost. It was my supplies. We had so much ice last night that it we just skated them down the drive to the garage.
So here's my stash


I'm just finishing up some prep work so I'll be ready to put this stuff down very soon.

FFPL said:

got home early tonight and found a delivery truck looking lost. It was my supplies. We had so much ice last night that it we just skated them down the drive to the garage.
So here's my stash

I'm just finishing up some prep work so I'll be ready to put this stuff down very soon.

Click to expand...

Hey your missing something. Oh yeah it must be the reject stickers that I had on mine from Budget Bob.

Best of luck and merry christmas to you.

Wow thats quite the pile for the floor!

That floor looks better already!

This is an excellent post, FFPL. Thanks for keeping us up to date. And thanks to WolverineCoatings for keeping us up to speed on their tips, suggestions, etc. I've been reading all of the Wolverine posts with great interest. Spring time isn't that far off, and I need to get something down in the new place.

So it's been a while. The weather here has been a little poor and I need at least 3 consecutive days without rain/snow to do the floor (since I need to crack open the doors a little).

In the mean time I decided to do the concrete foundation walls. I have 2 sections. The smaller area has about 200 sqft (about 4ft high) and the larger section has about 100 sq ft (about 1ft high) of walls. So I spent a few days applying the bondtite/liquatile/bontite to there areas. Before I did this I used my trusty concrete grinder to remove the uneveness from the original form work. I mostly succeeded and any defects left ended up being a bonus as it looks like natural stone (remember I was using the moody granite).
Here's a couple of pic after applying the bondtite (primer)


The bondtite (primer) goes down really easily but it did require alot of brush work so it took somewhat longer than I wanted. I did all the trimming with the brush using 12 oz mixes (7 altogether) then rolled 48oz mixes (2 altogether) while my helper (neighbour) brushed in the numerous holes/uneven areas. I then used the roller to smooth it all out. I used about 1.5 gallons for the 300sqft. Incidently I found the wooster rollers covers to be really good. I used the 1/4 inch candy stripe epoxy roller. These have a good strong core and don't shed. I put them to quite a bit of abuse so I can really recommend them.

When it came to the liquatile (colour coat) the challenge was to get the epoxy to stay put on the wall. The liquatile is designed to apply to a horizontal surface so it won't stay on the vertical without a thickener. I applied the liquatile without the thickener on the 3 or so horizontal inches but I can certainly say that this stuff will run immediately if you try and put any decent coating vertically. I found the best technique for doing these small horizontal sections was to mix up 12oz at a time and poor them onto the area and just smooth with the brush. I originally tried a traditional painting technique but this stuff really doesn't behave like paint.

I talked to Eric at Wolverine about applying liquatile to the walls and originally he said I shouldn't do it as liquitile wasn't designed to to this; then he said I could try applying in multiple thin coats; and then, in the end after I think he realise I was going to do it no matter what, he sent me a bag of thickener, and while he was at it I asked for another 2 kits (6 gallons) of bondtite (just for good luck; actually I want to put more down in the final floor coat).

The thickener is a really loose and fluffy white compound that is a little difficult to mix. It just floats. You really need to work it into the epoxy. I found a wood paddle easier than using the drill mixer alone.
I was using the 4oz yogurt containers that we save for this sort of stuff (useful containers) to measure the thickener out. Initially I used 4 of these 4oz measure in 3 qts just because 2 seemed too little. That was a mistake ! We still managed to use the mix on a 100sqft section but it was hard work. Especially for the brushing. One good thing though was that we filled just about every void in that wall. Perhaps a trowel would have been easier.....
The other 100sqft wall I used 2 measures again in 3qts and it was just about right. I think we could have got away with even a little less.

Here's my other helping giving us a hand at applying the flakes. He really enjoyed this part of the job, although he did make me a bit nervous at times

We use about 20 pounds of flakes for the 300sq feet. This gave us a really nice coating. The best approach I could find to applying the flake to the vertical surface was to take about a 1/4 of a hand full and just throw from about 5 feet.

Before I started out I calculated the proportions of bondtite/liquatile and flakes that I would use for each section. So far I've managed to stick quite well to this.

Here is a couple of the larger garage area just flaked



After sweeping a far amount of the excess flakes off the plastic and using a stiff brush on the walls to remove any loose flakes my worker was given the task of vacuuming up anthing left over


Yesterday I spent 8 hours doing the top coat. I didn't have my usual help so I just took my time and tried to have as much fun as possible. This is again bondtite (same as the primer) and I used the brush and the roller. Again I mixed 12oz for brushing (7 of these) and a 48 oz and 60 oz mixture for rolling.

The outcome is really really really nice. That bondtite gives a really nice top coat. It's a little difficult to tell from the pics but it darkened the flakes a little but at the same time gained a wonderful depth, especially on the small horizontal sections. I can just imagine what the floor will look like.
Here's a similar pic position to some of the prior photos

with flash


without flash


I've kept it about 60F in garage and the bondtite and liquatile are setting within the manufactures time specification. The floor still seems to be around 58-59F.

So next job is the floor. Looks like it might be clearing a little so perhaps I will get this done very soon.

Looking great, keep us posted!

Nice looking garage, heck, if I had something that nice I would probably just move into it and leave the house for the old lady....LOL

Awesome! Dude... you're doing a great job!

I talked to Eric at Wolverine about applying liquatile to the walls and originally he said I shouldn't do it as liquitile wasn't designed to to this; then he said I could try applying in multiple thin coats; and then, in the end after I think he realise I was going to do it no matter what, he sent me a bag of thickener,

Click to expand...

Yep... That's pretty much the way it happened... lol...

Anyway, we have a product called LiquaTile 1186 that we sell for vertical surfaces... We haven't offered that on here because we stay sold out on that for weeks at a time (right now through the end of January). If anyone else wants to do this... I think this best thing is to do it the same way... LiquaTile 1184 and thickener...

Also, make sure that you guys remember that there are a TON of BondTite and LiquaTile products. The products mentioned here are BondTite 1101 and LiquaTile 1184!

what is the ball park price per sq.ft???

I have a 840sq.ft 3 car and my new 1400sq.ft shop to do this summer... I dont like salt sitting on my pad in the winter

WolverineCoatings said:

Awesome! Dude... you're doing a great job!

Anyway, we have a product called LiquaTile 1186 that we sell for vertical surfaces... We haven't offered that on here because we stay sold out on that for weeks at a time (right now through the end of January). If anyone else wants to do this... I think this best thing is to do it the same way... LiquaTile 1184 and thickener...

Also, make sure that you guys remember that there are a TON of BondTite and LiquaTile products. The products mentioned here are BondTite 1101 and LiquaTile 1184!

Click to expand...

The thickener definitely works well. It's very strange stuff though. What else can I use this stuff for since I still have a reasonable amount left ? Just don't use too much as the 1184 (I'll use numbers from now on) will be difficult to move. Like I said, 2*4oz measures to 3qts seemed just about right.

The 1101 is really nice and I really enjoy applying this stuff.

jay50 said:

Nice looking garage, heck, if I had something that nice I would probably just move into it and leave the house for the old lady....LOL

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good thought. I have an insulated second floor as well (45x14). Currently my store area but in the future I reckon part of it would be a nice home theatre etc....

So I think I've finally finished.

Back a few steps first though. Since I cannot do a job without first organising I divided the garage up into the various stages of the job. I measured and marked out the areas based on the finish. P=primer, L=liquatile, T=topcoat. A little difficult to make it out from this photo but I just divided the number of kits I had into the area and marked them up. This was really helpful as it made sure I put down exactly what I wanted :

Since it gets cold and damp here in new england I wanted to make sure that cracking the doors open wouldn't cause any issues. So I used a some old 9 foot doors and an insulating blanket (R13) to cover the 'crack' while I was doing the job. I never noticed any cold leaking into the garage while I was doing the floor so this was a good move:

The first step was the primer; Bontite 1101. I used 2 kits (6 Gallons):


I reckon I could have stopped at this point and just had a polished floor.

There were a number of cracks and expansion joints I wanted to fill so I used the integraflex product. I had to wait till the following day as it was quite cold here and this seemed to affect the cure time of the bondtite. The Integraflex is really thick but it levels out very nicely. I found that just pouring it over the cracks and feathering with a trowel was the best approach. I filled all of them and just went back one by one and did the feathering and refilling as necessary. I had a number of cracks in old concrete and the saw cuts in the new that I wanted to fill. I'm really glad I did this as I found that using the bondtite and liquatile would 'fall through' cracks as they are quite thin in comparison to the integraflex. I pushed some 3/16th cord into the saw cuts just to save the integraflex since cord is cheaper. I didn't really need to do this as I only used 1 of the 2 gallons I bought:



I waited about 4 hours before I put down the liquatile (21 gallons). This is the most amazing product. I divided the garage up into 7 sections and just poored down 3 gallons at a time and pushed the product around the floor to make it even. If I didn't order the flakes I would defintely have stopped at this point. What an amazing finish. Here is a pic while I was adding the flakes. The gloss was so high that I could see myself in the reflection; I'm spreading flakes in the background at this point:

I had 140 pounds of flake to spread. I started out throwing this into the air and then went around evening it out basically until the liquatile was rejecting them. Out of the 130 pounds I think I reclaimed about 10-15 pounds. I swept all of this up the following day in preparation for the final coat. I broke of any flakes not completely fixed by using a stiff broom and did a light scrape. You can see the rejected flake in the following (the darker section):


The topcoat was next. This was bondtite 1101 again. I put 6 gallons of this down but I think that the ultimate would be to double this and have a completely smooth and flat surface. I did the top of the walls like this and it's very impressive. It would be like a skating rink though. As it is I have a texture from all those flakes that I hope will be less slippery.




So there it is. Now I just need to move all my stuff back in and see if I can destroy it.

oops. I actually put down 9 gallons of topcoat not 6. Still reckon I could have done 12 or more though.

So there it is. Now I just need to move all my stuff back in and see if I can destroy it.

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Good Luck with that... lol...

Your floor looks great! I love how nicely you blended it with the wall. Bravo!

exactly what I wanted. I have to say this really exceeded my expectations (I'm not being paid for this; I paid them). Onto the 2 post lift now.......

I agree, your floor does look great. I wish that I would have put down more flakes than I did, or none at all.
I can say that after having my Wolverine floor for a few months, I can say that is holding up well. My lovely wife seems to go out of her way to drive through junk and with all of the mud and gravel she picks up and then drips around her truck, the floor just cleans right up after I wash her truck.

I don't use anything other than a towel that I push around with the squeegee(sp) after I've rinsed the dirt towards the drain. Hopefully the floor will look this great after several years to come.

Wow. Looks nice! If you're like me, you will tip toe on it for a couple of weeks before you make a nice big mark on it, then you won't be so careful around it...at least that was me.

Looks great. I will be order my material from Wolverine next week sometime. Will be a cpl of weeks before I put it down. I want to have my garage doors installed first. And that won't be for 2-3 weeks . Waiting on a special track for the door where my lift will be.

bmwpower said:

Wow. Looks nice! If you're like me, you will tip toe on it for a couple of weeks before you make a nice big mark on it, then you won't be so careful around it...at least that was me.

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I'm going to leave it for a couple of weeks until I put stuff on it but after that I'm going to use it.
Hey I notice you've got Lista cabinets; nice setup. Are you happy with these ? The factory happens to be about 10 minutes away so I might take a look.

Brand new rookie question.

What are the spiked shoes and how are they used? I mean, why not just sneakers that you plan to throw away.

Spiked shoes allow you to walk in the wet paint to broadcast (throw) the chips in it... The spikes are about 3/4" long... The shoes attach to your regular shoes...