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Chas. Parker 88 vise - restoration questions

larryq

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I picked up a Chas Parker 88 on CL the other day. Anyone know what color this was originally?

Note the crack in the slide. The screw is fine and it opens and closes with one finger, but this thing has seen some use, up until recently I'd guess given the fresh lube on the screw. (The seller I bought from got it at an estate sale. I paid $25.)

Does anyone know how hard it would be for a welder to braze the crack? It doesn't go all the way through the metal. I don't need a better-than-new repair, I don't plan on doing heavy duty work with it but it would be nice to get it in as decent shape as possible.

Of course, when I asked the seller 'any cracks in the vise?' I was told 'nope, none.' Imagine my surprise when I got there. Sigh, CL....
 

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Davefr

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I think the original color was a very dark gray according to some old literature that was posted here. I used Rustoleum hammered black which is a reasonable match IMHO.

I don't know if I'd attempt to weld that crack in fear that it could warp. The vise should be usable as long as it's not fully open. Your vise is missing the pipe jaws. They may be tough to find.

Mine also has some evidence that someone beat on the slide. I guess that was common since these didn't have an anvil area.

parkerVise005edit1.jpg
 
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larryq

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That poor vise was abused!

It sure was. I'll give her a good, restful retirement, don't worry.

I think the original color was a very dark gray according to some old literature that was posted here. I used Rustoleum hammered black which is a reasonable match IMHO.


Thanks for the photo Dave, and the advice regarding the crack. I don't plan on using it all the way open. And I had the same thought as you did regarding the lack of an anvil area-- someone probably beat on the slide as a substitute.

How does someone going about painting the logo and lettering in a different color from the rest of the vise? What sort of masking is involved,etc? I've seen that before and always wondered how it was done.
 

Davefr

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How does someone going about painting the logo and lettering in a different color from the rest of the vise? What sort of masking is involved,etc? I've seen that before and always wondered how it was done.

Tester's enamel, a tiny paintbrush and a steady hand. It's pretty easy since the lettering is raised up.

P.S. I've read that sometimes you can stop a casting crack from getting worse by drilling two small holes at opposite ends of the crack. They did this on engine block cracks but don't know if this is appropriate for a vise.
 
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larryq

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Some more recent photos, this time with Davefr's suggestions though not with his results. Still need to put the swivel base back together.

Trying to figure out how to really shine up those jaw inserts, the steel wool and wire wheel are slow going.
 

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FJ 432

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I think it looks head and shoulders above your first post. It looks like you put a lot of time in the restoration. Great job.
 

ZRX61

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Trying to figure out how to really shine up those jaw inserts, the steel wool and wire wheel are slow going.

Deburring wheel on a bench grinder and/or 3M scotchbrite roloc discs on a die grinder. See my anvil thread for how it cleans stuff up. I did the horn with the 3M discs. I also use them for vise jaw inserts etc, there's an album of my vises on my profile...
 

bigcaddy

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If anybody can PM me the measurements for the pipe jaw inserts of this particular Chas Parker vise, i can look around my shop for something that may work. Some of our pipe fitting make-on machines have old sets of pipe jaws laying around in boxes not being used. Its possible you could have something machined out of those to fit. If they work, i can give anybody interested a name of a supply house where they can be ordered
 
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Davefr

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Some more recent photos, this time with Davefr's suggestions though not with his results. Still need to put the swivel base back together.

Trying to figure out how to really shine up those jaw inserts, the steel wool and wire wheel are slow going.

Nice job!!!!
 
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larryq

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Deburring wheel on a bench grinder and/or 3M scotchbrite roloc discs on a die grinder. See my anvil thread for how it cleans stuff up. I did the horn with the 3M discs. I also use them for vise jaw inserts etc, there's an album of my vises on my profile...

Thanks, will check it out.

If anybody can PM me the measurements for the pipe jaw inserts of this particular Chas Parker vise, i can look around my shop for something that may work. Some of our pipe fitting make-on machines have old sets of pipe jaws laying around in boxes not being used. Its possible you could have something machined out of those to fit. If they work, i can give anybody interested a name of a supply house where they can be ordered

Appreciate the interest, I can eyeball it and PM a guess if that's of any help?

Thanks for the kind words, Davefr and everyone else. I used almost an entire can of Rustoleum hammered black. Wish I could get the sides a bit shinier but the cast iron there just soaks up the paint like a sponge and doesn't have a smooth texture.
 

bigcaddy

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I have some measurements for you if you could make something out of these inserts.

They are made of 5/8" hardened steel and are 4" tall and 2 1/4" deep. They have a hole on the upper and lower corners so you would need to drill a center hole for the pin that holds them in place.
 
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larryq

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I have some measurements for you if you could make something out of these inserts.

They are made of 5/8" hardened steel and are 4" tall and 2 1/4" deep. They have a hole on the upper and lower corners so you would need to drill a center hole for the pin that holds them in place.

Thanks, I'll send you a PM in a bit. I think I can do something with these.
 

autopts

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Thanks, I'll send you a PM in a bit. I think I can do something with these.

Nice job Larry! Some metal guys like working metal just for the hell of it. I had a similiar Parker with a peice missing on the bar. My buddy did this one in his spare time and did an awesome job. That can be fixed.

ParkerBraze.jpg

ParkerBraze1.jpg
 
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larryq

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Nice job Larry! Some metal guys like working metal just for the hell of it. I had a similiar Parker with a peice missing on the bar. My buddy did this one in his spare time and did an awesome job. That can be fixed.

Your buddy did a great job. Good to know there are options. I'd probably have someone fill the crack on top before that repair, but I'm not in a hurry. If my MIG welding skills ever get past the more-spatter-than-bead stage I may do a slow series of tack welds up there and grind them down. No rush.

BTW, I took a pass on the Rock Island vise we were talking about last week. That jaw with the missing insert? It had half the support lip broken off, way beyond my ability to fix. It had definitely been used without an insert for a while.
 

jms4th

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Howdy,

I too have acquired a battered Parker 88, missing the pipe jaws. If anybody has a pattern that would be most appreciated! I could try eyeballing it but I would rather keep things as close to original as possible with this job.

By the way, mine too has a small crack on the top of the slide in the back. From what I have seen of this particular model it seems to be pretty common. It may have been some sort of inherent weakness with the 88 in particular...

The crack really bothered me at first -- I too thought about welding it or having someone with non-monkey-welding skills do it -- however, I am now at peace with it. To me, it's just part of the character of the tool.

Thanks!
 
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