Actual Air Line Installation Data - Black/Galvanized/Copper/Aluminum

machine_punk · Jan 19, 2012

I've watched a lot of threads on air compressors and installing air lines over the past few months. Lots of people claim there are "NEGATIVES" about this or that air line material and that is why they have not/would not install it.

I am considering installing air line in my 2-car garage metalworking studio soon, so I thought it might be nice to gather some data from folks WHO HAVE ACTUALLY INSTALLED air lines in their garage/shop/business. Please don't let this get into an arguing match...I simply want replies from people who have actually installed/used the air line system they are posting about.

So, here are the questions:

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed)

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future)

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?)

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops).

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.

Please enter the data any way you would like (paragraph or numbered comments), but PLEASE ONLY REPLY IF YOU HAVE ACTUAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE AIR LINE YOU ARE WRITING ABOUT!

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing what real-world experience has to say about air lines.

M_P

wood02 · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install?
Black Iron Pipe.

2. How many years has your air line been installed?
About 5 years.

Do you have any major problems with your system?
No serious problems...just a few very slow leaks upon installation. They have "healed" themselves.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
About 150 feet counting the drops.

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?
easy.

6. What size of line did you use?
Flex hose from compressor and 1/2" line for runs and drops.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
Chinese pipe fittings need to have about one more thread to make them seal correctly...try not to get chinese (good luck)...use the best pipe sealer you can find. Pressure check your connections with windex as you go along.

supra90turbo · Jan 19, 2012

I'll play along.

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).
Black Pipe
2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed)
25+ years in place

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future)
Fixtures that do not get frequent use after so many years of being in place have rust particles either blocking the passage of air through a coupler or a steady flow of rust until the passage is clear. I will usually plug a fitting into an infrequently used section for a minute or so just to clear most of it out.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
150+ feet, installed years and years ago, not by me.

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?)
Black steel pipe is easy to work with since it's threaded, the elbows and couplers are easy to work with, you can adapt down or up if needed very easily

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops).
3/8" flex to 1" pipe throughout the garage, each drop to a coupler is 1/2", all air line fittings used are 1/4"

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
I haven't had time to right my system, the drops to fittings are just that, drops. I would rather have the tee point straight up and 180º down to the fitting to deter water from collecting in fittings not frequently used.
Also, when designing your system, pipe in a drain towards the other end of the shop. When it's hot out, the cold pipes sweat and at the end of the system there will be a lot of water coming out of the last fitting, we practically have a squirt gun sometimes. Not fun.
While there are no audible leaks in my system, it will leak down to zero if I don't shut off the valve at the tank. There are a TON of fittings and couplers in my setup, and the fact that the pipes are only threaded together, who knows if they used pipe sealant.
I'm sure after nearly 30 years my system could use a once-over...

Hope this helps!

djjsr · Jan 19, 2012

I've been in dozens of industrial manufacturing plants. Without exception, they all have black pipe for air and most of them are several decades old. If you have pipe threading equipment, I think it's the best way to go.

I don't own the equipment to thread pipe, so I used copper in my workshop. Installed approx 100 ft using normal plumbing solder and it has been trouble free.

Mmfh · Jan 19, 2012

I'm also using copper, 1/2". This system is fairly new but the last shop I had it was there when I leased the building, must have been many years before I moved in.

Last place I worked I installed a new system for them, about 300ft I believe, same as all the others, 1/2".

I'm using it again this time mostly because I like working with it, and have had no problems ever using it. You can easily make drops or whatever you want and all you need is solder, flux, and a tubing cutter, and of coarse a torch.

Mm

Al Bundy · Jan 19, 2012

machine_punk said:
1. What air line did you install? Black pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? 6 months

3. Do you have any major problems with your system No

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? 50 feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? Easy

6. What size of line did you use? 1/2"

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system. A properly designed/installed system will give you trouble free service for decades. TP Tools gives you all the info you need to properly design your air system.

M_P

Hope this helps.

CARS · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).

Black Pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed)

Most of it is 5+ years. Added a couple more drops last year

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future)

Nothing I can think of. But can you ever have enough air???

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?

Under 100'

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?)

I did have to go through a couple brick walls. That was the hardest part. A good friend is a plumber, so cutting and threading was as simple as bringing a case of beer over to his shop after hours. :beer:

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops).

About 2' of 1" Hydraulic hose, double clamped on each end, to 50' of 1" pipe, to loops and drops of 1/2" pipe. Except for the line to the paint booth. That drop is 1" till it hits the 3 stage filter system.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.

No. It's pretty basic. 1" pipe might have been overkill but the cost wasn't that much more. I bought all the els, T's, etc. from Granger to save a few bucks.

Jagmandave · Jan 19, 2012

*Puts flame proof suit on *

I used....................gasp, shudder...............plastic pipe!

It's been in 18 years now. Since I did this before the internet, I did not know this was vebotten.....

It's worked perfectly, and of course there's no rust.

I used 3/4" pipe for the main runs and 1/2" for the drops - more than enough air flow. It was very easy and inexpensive to run, annd it still does not leak down.

I have about 50 ft total.

Every car site I've been on warns that this is not the right stuff to use, that it will shatter, explode and do all sorts of bodily harm, but again - as the internet didn't exist when I put it in - I didn't know any better. Still can't say as I do......since it still works just fine 18 years later. I leave my system pressurized all the time, whether that makes any difference or not. And I have ball valves at the bottoms of the verticle runs to let the water out, these exit well below the taps so there's a place for the water to accumulate away from the outlet.....

I've read plenty of people who've expressed that this stuff is the antichrist, but I haven't read anything from the mfr's that say not to use it for air.

In my plant I used black pipe - 1" for the mains and 3/4" to 1/2" for the drops.

buzz4041 · Jan 19, 2012

I install instrument air systems in the refinery and petrochemical industry. In 32 years I have only installed 2 different types of piping systems. Galvanized pipe and Stainless steel tube. I have also renovated plants that were 30 years old with galvanized systems and they were still fine. For a garage or shop the use of black iron , galvanized or copper will most likely outlast all of us. When black iron is used their is more chance of rust and trash inside the pipe. The exterior will usually need to be painted to keep it from rusting also (added expense) Galvanized will hold up great but do not bend it or the galvanizing will flake, Touch up paint after put together at the bare joints. Copper will turn green is only downside and cost.

1. What air line did you install? Galvanized pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? 12 Years

3. Do you have any major problems with your system No

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? 100 feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? Easy

6. What size of line did you use? 1"

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system. Put a set of good filters at the upstream and use a T with horizontal side to air filter regulator at drops with a vertical valve and blow down at each drop

Provincial · Jan 19, 2012

Jagmandave said:
*Puts flame proof suit on *

I used....................gasp, shudder...............plastic pipe!

It's been in 18 years now. Since I did this before the internet, I did not know this was vebotten.....

It's worked perfectly, and of course there's no rust.

I used 3/4" pipe for the main runs and 1/2" for the drops - more than enough air flow. It was very easy and inexpensive to run, annd it still does not leak down.

I have about 50 ft total.

Every car site I've been on warns that this is not the right stuff to use, that it will shatter, explode and do all sorts of bodily harm, but again - as the internet didn't exist when I put it in - I didn't know any better. Still can't say as I do......since it still works just fine 18 years later. I leave my system pressurized all the time, whether that makes any difference or not. And I have ball valves at the bottoms of the verticle runs to let the water out, these exit well below the taps so there's a place for the water to accumulate away from the outlet.....

I've read plenty of people who've expressed that this stuff is the antichrist, but I haven't read anything from the mfr's that say not to use it for air.

In my plant I used black pipe - 1" for the mains and 3/4" to 1/2" for the drops.

My father piped our shop with 1/2" PVC pipe 30+ years ago when I was away working in Alaska. I never paid much attention to it, and have been using it all along. I upgraded the compressor from a 125psi unit to a 2-stage 175psi unit 20 years ago. A couple of years ago I walked into the shop and the compressor was running and some flourescent tubes were shattered on the floor. It seems that a piece of the PVC pipe had shattered and either that shrapnel or perhaps the remains of the pipe whipping around had smashed the tubes and broken off the bulb holders from the fixture.

I was shocked at the amount of impact the PVC had transferred. If someone had been in the "line of fire" they could have been serously injured. The dangers of using PVC for an air line are not just theory! :shocking:

I will mention that the PVC that failed appeared to be very thin wall. It was much thinner than current Schedule 40 PVC pipe. Also, who knows if it would have failed at 125psi?

GeorgiaHybrid · Jan 19, 2012

Answers noted below

machine_punk said:
1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).Copper

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed)6 years

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future)No problems at all

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?Roughly 120 feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?)For me, easier than iron pipe, harder than aluminum with push together fittings

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops). 1" hyd. line from pump to the system, 3/4" type "L" main runs. 1/2" type "L" drops

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system. Easy to add on, not dependent on a company going out of business, easy to fix in the middle of a run if required and you can buy pipe and fittings anywhere.

Please enter the data any way you would like (paragraph or numbered comments), but PLEASE ONLY REPLY IF YOU HAVE ACTUAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE AIR LINE YOU ARE WRITING ABOUT!

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing what real-world experience has to say about air lines.

M_P

Will67 · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).
Copper and rapid air stuff

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed).
It has been about six months

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future).

With the exception of getting rid of the leaks it has been smooth sailing.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
Copper run is about 100-feet and Rapidair stuff is 58-feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?).
Since I never sweated copper pipe fittings before this, I would classify installation as medium difficulty. The Rapidair stuff is major easy to install except that it comes in a coil and wants to stay in a coil...so getting it to look straight and pretty is kind of a *****.

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops).
copper is 3/4" and Rapidair is about 3/8" id. I have a 3/4" flex coming off of air compressor attached to the beginning of copper run. I have a total of three drops to drain off moisture in lines.
7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.

With the Rapidair lines you have to make certain cuts are square and that you fully seat the tube into the fitting. With copper I took out all my unions and replaced them with "shark bite" fittings....I could never get my copper unions to stop leaking.

akdiesel · Jan 19, 2012

1- 3/4" x .035 wall stainless tubing.

2- About 2 years in service.

3- No rust issues obviously, and I did install a smaller tank after the main tank to aid in the JT effect to help knock out water. I have no water in my system.

4- Approx 150' of tubing with 3 drops and 4 hose reels.

5- I have done may of copper and black pipe work and the stainless install is much easier to install and expand on than the other two. I also work with stainless tubing regularly at work so that does help as well.

6- 3/4" SS braided hose from the main tank to the knock out tank and another 3/4" ss braided line from the KO drum to the main tubing line. As mentioned 3/4" tubing connected with Swagelok fittings. 4 hose reels at each corner of the shop, 2 drops at the bench and 1 drop for the lift.

7- This system may cost a little more than others due the use of the Swagelok fittings (can be done less expensive with used fittings found on Ebay), but for longevity, ease of installation / expansion, clean look, and functionality it was a better choice for me.

GarageEnvy · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).

Galvanized pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed)

About a year

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future)

No, but my compressor has an auto drain and I use filters at each outlet. Also, it hasn't been in there that long. I did have a run of 40' that was underground for 10 years. When I unearthed it for the new garage it looked fine on the inside.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?

About 150'

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?)

Easy. I live less than .5 mile from OSH. They stock sizes of 1' to 3' and cut to length. Unfortunately I noticed they stopped carrying 20' lengths now.

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops).

3/4" for main line and drops. I used bell reducers to 3/8" at the outlets. In hindsight 1/2" pipe would have been just fine for my needs. Connection from compressor to filter/regulator is 3/4" hydraulic line from tractor supply.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.

The chinese fittings are disappointing and I bought a couple extras since some fit better than others. I've yet to do a plumbing project with one trip to the store......no matter how many extras I buy. I used pipe dope. Most of my piping is in the wall. I like the look but it may mean a redo down the road. I'm also in a mild climate with low humidity most of the year. I don't run paint guns or sandblasters (yet).

pattenp · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC). Garage Pak rigid aluminum

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed) 5 years

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future) No problems

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? 30 ft

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?) Very easy to install, cut and slide together.

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops). 1/2 inch line size, used braided stainless flex from tank to regulator and have two drops.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system. System is not cheap. If I had had a lot of line to do, it would have become a cost issue.

K'ledgeBldr · Jan 19, 2012

I find this rather interesting-
As many of you probably know there is a whole 'industry' for compressed air systems. From package systems, energy efficiency, to service providers. Of course this is on the industrial side and here at GJ we're talking about just a compressor or very small 'system'. This pdf, from the DoE has some great information that could probably have beneficial information for our needs-
http://www1.eere.energy.gov/industry/bestpractices/pdfs/compressed_air_sourcebook.pdf

The thing that was really interesting- there is no significant mention of piping or the type of material the pipe is made of; pros, cons, etc.

Carl B · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? Galvanized pipe.....etc

I used Parker Push-Loc hose and fittings. Rated at 300 psi.

2. How many years has your air line been installed?

About a year now.. Should have done it 20 years ago!!

3. Do you have any major problems with your system.

NO

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?

50 feet at the most

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?

Relatively Easy - would have been VERY easy if I had known / bought all the bits and pieces I needed on the first trip.

6. What size of line did you use?
3/4" for the piping...

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.

I have a home garage - so the use of compressed air is limited to a few air tools, blowing up tires and blowing dust off stuff. I used the Parker Push-Loc because it was a breeze to install. Ran it up in the rafters across the garage - back to front. It was not cheap, but then I didn't really need all that much. It's the fittings in all these systems that take the most money anyway.

I put a iron pipe drop in the front of the garage - then ran the iron though a block wall - to put an access point outside. The only reason I used iron for that was because I needed something solid to mount to the block wall, to keep the quick disconnect from moving around.

My compressor is 3.5HP / 60 gallon - held at 135 psi. I regulate the line pressure to 90 psi most of the time.

good luck with your project..
Carl B.

rsanter · Jan 19, 2012

I did it the cheap and easy way
I have 2 hose reels positioned between the bays of a 3car garage
Ran air hose from compressor to the reels
This supposed to be temporary but has been that way for about 3years now

Bob

89GLH · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install?
Black pipe for the trunks, copper at the wall fittings (with unions), flex line at the compressor, drains at each outlet.

2. How many years has your air line been installed?
Installed spring 2011

3. Do you have any major problems with your system?
Need an auto drain at the compressor, right now I use my foot.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
50 feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?
Not difficult, time consuming. 1/5 for difficulty.

6. What size of line did you use?
3/4" black pipe, 1/2" copper at each drop

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system?
Use unions, that way if you have to make a change you can depressurize the system and take the run out you need and make changes.

sanddan · Jan 19, 2012

The first garage setup was done with white PVC. That was easy to install and was in service for 3 years. At the time I didn't know how dangerous is was.

In my current shop I first used galvanized 3/4' for the main runs, about 30 feet, and then added on using copper because the steel pipe always seemed to leak somewhere. I eventually replaced the steel section with more copper and also added more runs and drops. I currently have about 130 feet all in 3/4" and no leaks. The compressor is hooked up with 2 feet of 3/4 hose that is replaced about every 5 years. To prevent excess water from getting to you tools try to have at least 10 to 15 feet of pipe between the compressor and the air regulator/water separator. This allows the air to cool down which helps the water separator to function better. My paint booth has a second regulator/water separator and a water filter so that air is doubly clean.

Another good thing to do is have a shutoff valve at the compressor end of the system so you don't have to drain the tank when working on the system.

Falcon67 · Jan 19, 2012

1. Black iron pipe
2. About 4 (currently in pieces after move, waiting for new shop install)
3. No problems noted with pipe, other than poor fitting threads requiring extra sealing work.
4. About 65' total
5. Easy enough - Ref. #3, low cost pipe seems to have it's share of sealing issues. Unions required along the long runs to allow for service and install the lines in sections so everything lines up pretty.
6. 3/4" gate valve at compressor, 3/4" hydraulic hose from compressor to 3/4" riser. 3/4" riser T'd to 1/2" lines. Drops+drip legs all 1/2", standard 1/4 quick connects on drops. Two drops used the "up and over" start from the main line, two were just a T'd drop. Drop runs were typically constructed as (coming down from main) 4' pipe, gate valve, 1' pipe, T with quick connect, 2' pipe, gate valve. Upper gate valves on drops closed unless in use. Compressor valve closed when leaving the shop, compressor switched off.
7. There was no real water control at the compressor/system interface and the drip legs at max distance from the compressor would collect moisture. Will be installing some kind of water control/dessicant dryer at the compressor and possibly a conditioned air dryer. For the drops, I had two regulator setups on quick connects that I could move around as needed. One was a small water separater/regulator and one was an oiler/regulator. I used a Central Pneumatic (HF brand) Industrial Air Filter/Regulator unit at one time and it yielded a decent regulator and a pressure guage. The rest of the unit turned out to be pretty worthless. Not recommended.

mattrogers · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install?
Copper with nylon flexible air line between compressor and copper and to make a connection to my hose reel.

2. How many years has your air line been installed?
Two months

3. Do you have any major problems with your system?
There were leaks at all of the pipe fittings on the filters (my fault for using teflon tape rather than pipe dope)

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
135 ft. with with four taps

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?
Moderate--nothing was super difficult, but it definitely required patience and some thought.

6. What size of line did you use?
1/2" copper with 1/2" nylon. 3/8" hose reel.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
I went with copper because I didn't have pipe threading equipment available, and didn't want a trip to Home Depot every time I needed a pipe cut. Copper was slightly more expensive, but the fittings were cheaper than the black iron ones. Install some unions in your system in case of repairs. I have a nice 5-micron Norgren filter/regulator and a sub-micron Motorguard filter after that, both 1/2" NPT. Use unions everywhere. Definitely on either side of your filter chain. At least one on every long run. Put in at least one more tap than originally planned. Perhaps one right after the filter chain. Plan a place for accumulated moisture to drain. Also, use unions.

Thruxton · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? black pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? 12

3. Do you have any major problems with your system ? No, pipe shows light rusting inside but no problems

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? 40-50

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?) fairly easy

6. What size of line did you use? 3/4 all through

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system. I am reinstalling now as part of my shop re-do, will probably make layout changes but stick with black iron.

My system small that it is, is on 24/7. It recycles on leakdown maybe once or twice a month. Teflon tape is what I usually use but when I added a couple of new fittings there was a leak fixed immediately by Rector Seal (no bad jokes guys)- get it a plumbing supply house. Great stuff.

M_P[/QUOTE]

Torque1st · Jan 19, 2012

Jagmandave said:
*Puts flame proof suit on *

I used....................gasp, shudder...............plastic pipe!
I've read plenty of people who've expressed that this stuff is the antichrist, but I haven't read anything from the mfr's that say not to use it for air.

In my plant I used black pipe - 1" for the mains and 3/4" to 1/2" for the drops.

The OP obviously knows about PVC and has excluded it. I could look it up for you but every major manufacturer of PVC pipe and fittings list warnings not to use the product with compressed gasses. The warning are in their product literature, usually tech specs, applications, or sales literature. Most even proscribe leak testing with compressed air or confine testing to very low pressure. Links to manufacturer's websites have been posted many times here on GJ and other sites. Google the names on your pipe and fittings.

machine_punk said:
So, here are the questions:

1. What air line did you install? (black pipe, galvanized pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe, or whatever you used EXCEPT PVC).
Note* If you must meet local design codes you may be limited to black pipe. Copper is prohibited by some local codes. Deviations from code can be made if the architect or PE in charge is willing to take responsibility.

2. How many years has your air line been installed? (How many years or what year was it installed) Varies 30+ years to date

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future) Rust in the black pipe installations when the driers were not maintained properly.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? The installations were anywhere from 50' to 1000'. Most of the systems were contractor installed but I have done a few smaller systems myself.

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?) Easy

6. What size of line did you use? (flexible connection from compressor to air line, riser, run, and drops). Appropriate sizes were used for the application. Up to 3" main lines. Most drops were 1/2 or 3/4" but some were larger.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
The 3" main line installation was welded pipe.

Please enter the data any way you would like (paragraph or numbered comments), but PLEASE ONLY REPLY IF YOU HAVE ACTUAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE AIR LINE YOU ARE WRITING ABOUT!

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing what real-world experience has to say about air lines.

M_P

machine_punk · Jan 19, 2012

OK! THANKS for the PVC information.

Please do not turn this into an anti-PVC thread...that has been beaten to death in plenty of other places and I am definitely not considering PVC for my install. This is about what people DID in real-world installs and how it worked for them, not about what 'not to do.'

Back on track, gentlemen. Thanks for all the wonderful data so far. I appreciate you taking the time to add to this database with details of your own installation...

Racecarl · Jan 19, 2012

[/IMG]I installed about 130' of copper pipe this past December. the pipe makes a complete loop around my 24X30 building. I have a 5hp 23 cfm 2 stage compressor. From the ball valve on the compressor tank, I ran a 1" hydraulic hose to a 1" copper pipe mounted to the wall. Since the compressor is near the ceiling, the riser is only about 1' long. From this riser a T sends air in either direction--about 2' to the north and the remaining 7' of tube goes around the corner. At either end of the 1" pipe, a 1"X1/2" reducing coupler was used. Half inch copper is used in all the rest of the building. I built a pretty good slope into my air lines (roughly 2' in 20') with drain valves in the low corners. The south wall, where the bench will be, has two outlets. The west wall has a hose reel next to the walk through door and two outlets. The north wall has 3 outlets, and the east wall has a hose reel next to the overhead door and one outlet. Each outlet and hose reel has a ball valve. The risers for the air outlets come UP from the main line pipe and are about 55" off the floor.

I used brass elbow couplers that allow me to screw the elbow to the wall. This elbow is used in shower installations and has female 1/2" NPT threads so I can easily bush down to 1/4" for most quick couplers. I used sweat fitting and valves for everything else. I did get one valve a little too hot so it doesn't shut off all the way. This valve is on the hose reel next to the ovh door and that hose reel has a tire chuck on it all the time. No biggie. I am a little dissappointed that the copper line part will not hold a full charge of air overnight. It goes from 175 to about 50 the next morning. I suppose I will go over every joint and valve with soap bubbles someday to see if I can fix this tiny leaks. When I am not in the shop I shut off the air at the tank, using a piece of EMT to turn the valve. I also have a wall switch that breaks the circuit calling for the compressor to run, and I shut this switch off when I leave the shop.

Sadly, I had to go back to work after the first of the year (no more vacation left), so I haven't used the air setup a lot other than to blow out chainsaw engines and clean up some other equipment. I did drain a little water out of the compressor tank but so far none out of the lines.

On a side note, I moved the air cleaner for the compressor intake into my attic. That is the purpose of the white hose near the top of the picture. That made a HUGE difference with regard to noise

Shadowdog500 · Jan 19, 2012

Good start but you may want to ask for a photo or two of the installation to see how the system was installed. You might also want to ask what they typically do with thier system because someone who only runs basic air tools like impacts wouldn't notice any moisture problems even if his lines were loaded with water.

I have worked in shops with properly designed iron pipe systems that were probably older than me that worked great even for bead blasting and painting. And i have seen and worked with other shops with improperly installed black iron pipes that had water and rust and water going into the tools and couplings.
I also have a 30 gallon 2HP compressor in my attached garage that has had nothing but 75' of hose for decades and that worked great for inflating tires and using basic air tools like impact wrenches, air ratchets, drills, air hammers, and air saws. I only ran into moisture problems when I bought a bead blast cabinet and a small paint gun.

Chris

engineer2 · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? Copper.

2. How many years has your air line been installed? 13 years.

3. Do you have any major problems with your system? None

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
1200 ft at work
30 ft at home

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? Easy

6. What size of line did you use?
Work: Braided flex lines from compressors and air dryer. 1" loop around plant perimeter and middle with eight 1/2" drops
Home: Rubber hose from compressor to air dryer and air dryer to 1/2" copper with 2 drops plus Harbor Freight hose reel. Works great, but get the 50 foot reel.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
No problems at all. Plumber did the main install at work, but did not know how to pipe a compressor and air dryer. Redid it myself.

Torque1st · Jan 19, 2012

machine_punk said:
OK! THANKS for the PVC information.

Please do not turn this into an anti-PVC thread...that has been beaten to death in plenty of other places and I am definitely not considering PVC for my install. This is about what people DID in real-world installs and how it worked for them, not about what 'not to do.'

Back on track, gentlemen. Thanks for all the wonderful data so far. I appreciate you taking the time to add to this database with details of your own installation...

Sorry, the information was not for you. As already stated: "The OP (that stands for Original Poster or 'You') obviously knows about PVC and has excluded it." User Jagmandave made his misleading statement in an open forum so in the interest of efficiency the short answer was made in the open forum instead of behind the scenes in a PM thereby avoiding the possibility of many PM's being sent.

On the other hand you did piss off the 'plastic people' by excluding their favorite material in your database question. A question, I might add, that has been flogged to death in this forum and others along with being copiously covered in technical literature from many sources. The answers to which can also be found in the garage gallery, but I must admit that would take research and observation to find. I might suggest reading many of the build threads there. The amount of detail in the threads and comments in that section may answer some of your future questions. :beer:

I totally apologize for my actions.

71flh · Jan 19, 2012

1. Black iron
2. 1.5
3. Slow leak. Now I shut off the valve at the tank. I've never seen water come out of the air lines or tools. I think I should have cleaned the threads on the pipe and fittings so there wasn't any oil to prevent leaks.
4. 50' of pipe
5. Pretty easy but its real basic
6. 3/4" black pipe. The flexible hose from the compressor to the wall is 1" so the ID of the fittings on it are 3/4" so its truly 3/4" all the way to the regulator including the ball valves. I thought this might make a difference.
7. My setup goes up the wall by the compressor, over the wall with 1/4" per foot slope, makes a U-turn at the back of the garage and comes back, also sloped so nowhere in the piping can water collect. Spend some time looking at pics on here and you'll see plenty of setups where there are places for water to collect that can't be drained.

Also when looking at pics, note how many setups have pipe and hose sizes that get bigger, then smaller, then bigger. I can't say if it really makes a difference, but airflow is constrained by the smallest cross sectional area of the pipe/hose system. If there's a tiny hose coming off the tank getting adapted up in diameter to a big pipe, airflow is still determined by that small hose. Then again, at the work end, the diameter gets smaller anyway...

I drain the water from the tank regularly but don't drain the air.

I have the regulator and dryer/filter at the farthest end away from the tanks so the air can (hopefully) cool so it can be trapped by the dryer.

I have several valves, and unions so the lines can be taken apart without starting from one end and working back.

oldtractors · Jan 19, 2012

. What air line did you install?
Pex - 3/4 run all around the shop with 1/2" drops
2. How many years has your air line been installed?
1 year
3. Do you have any major problems with your system?
None
4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
250 ft.
5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?
Extremely easy. I can also add new drops in about 15 minutes
6. What size of line did you use?
3/4 and 1/2
7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
Where I could, the 3/4 run around the shop is around 2' off the ground. Then the "drops" go up and no chance of water at the outlets.
No water has been seen at the outlets. Water will drain from the drain ports I put at opposite ends of the shop at low points, so water does condense inside the plastic.

Previous shop was copper. I couldn't afford it this for this shop. So far I prefer the PEX over copper.

slip knot · Jan 19, 2012

1. What air line did you install? 1" black iron pipe

2. How many years has your air line been installed? installed in 2004

3. Do you have any major problems with your system (rust chips or galvanization chips in air tools, too much water makes it to the tool, not enough air flow for the tools you want to use, or any other problems which would make you choose a different air line in the future) no major problems

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? @65feet

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? Fairly easy but I had a threader and pipe vise

6. What size of line did you use? 1 in iron pipe, hydraulic hose for compressor connection

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
Add more connection tees and plug them off. I have a hose reel that I'm gonna have to cut the system to add on. Tape and dope on the fittings will help but chinese fittings ****!

Zengineer · Jan 20, 2012

I've used black pipe, copper and PVC in various industrial, commercial and residential shops and industry I've set up over the years. Thousands of linear feet of pipe I've personally installed, or designed. I wouldn't recommend PVC for the same reason most of the "haters" hate it.

For the steam punk look you are going for, I'd use soft solder and copper. If you have a bit more money to burn and don't mind a more difficult install, use black pipe. Either one will serve you for decades, with the black iron being better in a number of ways.

I'd stick to 3/4" lines if possible in a single or dual tool simultanious situation. If you have extremely high demands, look to 1" or 1-1/4" lines.

Al Bundy · Jan 20, 2012

K'ledgeBldr said:
I find this rather interesting-
As many of you probably know there is a whole 'industry' for compressed air systems. From package systems, energy efficiency, to service providers. Of course this is on the industrial side and here at GJ we're talking about just a compressor or very small 'system'. This pdf, from the DoE has some great information that could probably have beneficial information for our needs-
http://www1.eere.energy.gov/industry/bestpractices/pdfs/compressed_air_sourcebook.pdf

The thing that was really interesting- there is no significant mention of piping or the type of material the pipe is made of; pros, cons, etc.

You can't really be that surprised that info put out by the government is incomplete and inadequate. The shocking part is how much of our money they spent to provide their incomplete study.

bill9860 · Jan 20, 2012

I used galvanized pipe for a total of about 60 feet - flex connection from compressor to line. Also have a shut off valve at compressor and added a couple of other in case I needed to work on part of system and didn't want to shut the whole system off. Several drains near drops as well. Flex connection to hose reel. Two additional drops besides hose reel in a 26x28 garage. I have had no issues but the install is not even two years old yet.

The reason I used galvanized is because a friend has had two shops for a total of over 40 years. Both had 1/2" galvanized, the most recent for about 25 years. He paints cars as a side business and now in retirement. He has never had a problem. I figure if it is good enough for someone who paints cars for money, how bad can it be? He swears by it and helped me with the install.

I considered the install very easy having worked with threaded pipe a lot myself many moons ago. Bought more than enough of every available length of 1/2" pipe from the longest to the shortest ******* and many many fittings (T's, 90's, 45's, couplings, unions, plugs, caps,etc) at a big box store and simply returned what I didn't use. Did absolutely no cutting/threading. Used pipe dope - no tape.

CaptainRay · Jan 20, 2012

You can get a pipe threader at harbor freight that is nice for $59 http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=pipe+threader

e-tek · Jan 20, 2012

Jagmandave said:
*Puts flame proof suit on *

I used....................gasp, shudder...............plastic pipe!
It's been in 18 years now. Since I did this before the internet, I did not know this was vebotten.....
It's worked perfectly, and of course there's no rust.
I used 3/4" pipe for the main runs and 1/2" for the drops - more than enough air flow. It was very easy and inexpensive to run, annd it still does not leak down.
I have about 50 ft total.
I leave my system pressurized all the time, whether that makes any difference or not. I've read plenty of people who've expressed that this stuff is the antichrist, but I haven't read anything from the mfr's that say not to use it for air.

I love it when someone posts stuff like this. Anthing "CAN" happen...but will it... :headscrat

Provincial said:
My father piped our shop with 1/2" PVC pipe 30+ years ago when I was away working in Alaska. A couple of years ago I walked into the shop and the compressor was running and some flourescent tubes were shattered on the floor. It seems that a piece of the PVC pipe had shattered and either that shrapnel or perhaps the remains of the pipe whipping around had smashed the tubes and broken off the bulb holders from the fixture.
I was shocked at the amount of impact the PVC had transferred. If someone had been in the "line of fire" they could have been serously injured. The dangers of using PVC for an air line are not just theory!

Then again......it might.... :wtf:

1. BLACK PIPE too.

2. How many years: 5

3. Do you have any major problems with your system. NO

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install? ~100'

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? Moderate. It all screws together, but it's a bunch of work to run it all over the place.

6. What size of line did you use? 3/4" ...

7. Any other significant comments: Easy to screw together (use LOTS of sealant!), easy to change/add to, no issues once it's up.

(Great thread - may become the "LAST WORD" on piping your airlines!

Torque1st · Jan 20, 2012

slip knot said:
7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
Add more connection tees and plug them off. I have a hose reel that I'm gonna have to cut the system to add on. Tape and dope on the fittings will help but chinese fittings ****!

Here is a trick: Always use a 'T' with a plug instead of a coupling on your main runs. It eliminates cutting a line most times. :thumbup:

trboxman · Jan 22, 2012

1. What air line did you install?
Black Iron Pipe.

2. How many years has your air line been installed?
About 8 years.

3. Do you have any major problems with your system?
No serious problems.

4. Approximately how many feet of air line did you install?
About 100 feet counting the drops.

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult?
easy.

6. What size of line did you use?
Flex hose from compressor and 1/2" line for runs and drops.

7. Any other significant comments you would like to make about your air line system.
Use the best pipe sealer you can find. Pressure check your connections with soapy water as you go along. I've not had any issues with rust or rust scale.

1984Datsun · Jan 22, 2012

1. Galvanized pipe up to a manifold, where couplers are connected to PVC air hose which then run over into the other side of the barn along the ceiling to drop points.

Otherwise, the PVC air hoses I am using are not having any problems with leaks or the like... just a PITA to coil up in cold weather... no leaks in the pipe/regulator/manifold set up since I used Blue Monster on the threads. That sealed the mess right up. Blasted Chinese **** pipe...

2. Have yet to actually run the PVC air hose to the drop points... been waiting for a hose reel, and just got one this week. Now to put a flexzilla hose on it...

3. Not yet... seems good so far. The more I think about it, the better the air hose idea seems, since it can't rust. You might have to replace a leaky air fitting every now and then, but that is a lot easier than running new pipe.

4. It'll be around 100 feet, 50 feet of hose to one drop point, and 50 to another.

5. Would you characterize the installation as easy or difficult? (How hard was it to put this pipe in your garage?) Pretty easy, 4 or so on a 10 scale. Drilled a hole in the wall big enough for the hoses to go through.

Once they do get run through there, that hole will get packed up well with insulation and some masking tape put over to keep the stuff in there, but allow easy access in case a hose decides to take a **** and needs to be replaced.

6. 3/4 to 1/2 to ball valve to 3/8 to 1/4 (damn tiny regulators...) to 3/8 manifold with couplers. 3/8 air hose to drop points with reels equipped with 3/8 hose as well.

7. Fairly cheap, simple and will work very well for most, including me.

I need to actually run the hose along the ceiling... but the barn is just too damn messy to do that right now. Maybe this spring... I look forward to the set up. It should work well.

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