OldsRocket
Well-known member
Anyone use the Ingersoll Rand 118Max or CP 715 air hammer? I am interested in using it for suspension work. Any input is appreciated.
Air Hammer IR118Max vs CP 715
- Thread starter OldsRocket
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ballistix
Member
I have the CP 715 and the IR 1114gqc they work very well! just make sure the volume of air is getting to the gun.
I knock king pins out of truck axles with these air hammers
cp714 is really good too!
I knock king pins out of truck axles with these air hammers
cp714 is really good too!
jrlp
Well-known member
I have a big thread or two on the 118max. I almost dropped the coin on it, and was lead to buy a used (but new) snap on 3050. Having used a few IR hammers in my time, I was completely blown away by the SO Hammer. It has the title 'the hammers all others are compared too' and I know why now! Every other air hammer I've used just makes noise in comparison to this thing. I'll put it this way, you can drive a tapered pin punch into an aluminum rim in about 5 seconds, all the way through. Or cut sheet metal faster than your hand can move. I use my hammer on power setting #1 or #2, which is more powerful than any air hammer I've ever used in it's own right. Settings #3 and #4 are just ridiculous, and you have to hold it with 2 hands and put some *** behind it to keep it on target.
jrlp
Well-known member
Pushing a tapered point through an aluminum rim, cutting a lug nut off, and a poser shot. I'm in love with this thing. Like I said, I keep it on 1 or 2 on the power settings a feature most hammers don't have. It gets the most use with a flat hammer bit. Although removing the fan clutch from a 12v that had been been wrecked wasn't going well, this air hammer let me take it apart like a surgeon! Even dissected the bearing spun on the shaft without too much hassle. I think I spent an hour by hand trying to take it off before I lost patience. It's a good stress reliever! Just wear ear plugs!
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What made you decide against the 118MAX?? I've been trying to decide between the 118MAX or the PH3050. Been on ebay looking at several PH3050and bid on a couple but the bidding wars in the final minutes puts the price out of my range. I was very seriously leaning toward getting the 118MAX from Tooltopia. My only concern on the 118MAX is while the feedback has been positive, it has been rather limited.
jrlp
Well-known member
Well, The 118Max is relatively new. The 3050 has been around for 8 years now? It has a proven track record. I mean realistically, great deals can be had. I bought a NEW 3050A with the beehive retainer and the quick connect coupler for $250 shipped from a member on this website. The 3050 destroys bits it hits so hard. I've been amassing a collection of bits every time I can. Get "Old Forge" bits, they are best bang for buck. Funny thing is, the Old Forge bits I bought came in, and are actually Mayhew bits in the Old Forge plastic. My suggestion is get the 3050. If the 118Max gives you 4 years of good service and dies, the 3050 will give you 10 years, and still be rebuildable and hit harder. If I had to do it again, knowing what I do now, I'd get the 3050 full price in a heart beat. Get the 3050, get the boot for it, the snap on air swivel, and a flexzilla 2' whip. That's how I set up my gun, and it works very well!
bluechevy94
Well-known member
Get PH3050...It will not leave you Dow.Those things are beasts.I don't own one personally (atleast not yet) but I have used one many times.I worked in a trailer repair shop for a few years and a Guy there had one.Driving out bushings;bucking rivets;cutting rivets it done it all.They are well worth the money you pay for one.
Thanks for the feedback guys, looks like it's back to ebay. With patience eventually I'll win something for a good price. By the way what would be a good price range for the PH3050A with the quick change retainer or PH3050? Looking for something that is in good to very good condition with light signs of use. I have seen a few that looked almost new go for $170's to $180's + shipping range, but most I have in my "watch list" end up selling for $200 to $240's + S/H range. Maybe I need to lower my expectations of finding a lightly used PH3050 with retainer coupler for $200 or less?
jrlp
Well-known member
Probably. The quick retainer is ~$60 by itself. Look for a guy on ebay named assim2002 (I think that's the spelling). I've dealt with him quite a bit, and he can get you things within a few days! Usually has amazing pricing too.
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
I've got the CP715 and it's got balls a plenty.
If anything needs a little more persuation, I get the blue wrench after it......
If anything needs a little more persuation, I get the blue wrench after it......
dsmnickk90
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You can find the IR132 for around $450 if you look around
jrlp
Well-known member
I've always heard the CP717 is king of the hill in the <500 category. You can go up to the next larger size which would be rivet buster territory.
Have you used the both IR118max and the PH3050 in the same or similar situations to get a good comparison? When looking at specs both have same 2500 bpm, same bore diameter but the IR has a 3.5" stroke to the PH3050 3.0" stroke. On paper it would appear that maybe the IR has the potential to hit harder with each blow, but maybe in real-world that is not the case???
There's a IR132 right now in the classifieds for $375
dsmnickk90
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That was a new price not used.
JKady
Well-known member
I've been using my 118max at work quite a bit and love it. Everyone else in the shop that has an air hammer has a long barrel Matco, and when theirs can't touch something, they borrow mine. Only tool I've ever seen make short work of separating Ford Taurus balljoints. It's usually a lot of beating and cussing, but the 118 and a pickle fork pops them with ease.
jrlp
Well-known member
From what I understand, it's not only the stroke of the piston, but the piston weight and length as well, except those specs aren't shared. I know the 3050 advertises a hardened extra heavy piston..
I haven't personally used the 118, but I had to chose between them.. and I decided I didn't have enough money to do it twice, and went with a known and well reviewed/used tool, the 3050. That may change when most people get a 118, but in my case.. I decided to go with the safe choice.. and haven't regretted it. Sometimes you have to pay more than you want for something, but in the end it works out.. In my case, it's worked better than anything I've ever used including the Matco, and lets me get things done faster when I need it.. and peace of mind it's going to live many years being abused as hard as I am on tools is worth the difference in cost..
jrlp
Well-known member
From what I understand, it's not only the stroke of the piston, but the piston weight and length as well, except those specs aren't shared. I know the 3050 advertises a hardened extra heavy piston..
I haven't personally used the 118, but I had to chose between them.. and I decided I didn't have enough money to do it twice, and went with a known and well reviewed/used tool, the 3050. That may change when most people get a 118, but in my case.. I decided to go with the safe choice.. and haven't regretted it. Sometimes you have to pay more than you want for something, but in the end it works out.. In my case, it's worked better than anything I've ever used including the Matco, and lets me get things done faster when I need it.. and peace of mind it's going to live many years being abused as hard as I am on tools is worth the difference in cost..
I guess it would be possible to purchase replacement parts, the 3050 piston is $10 dollars, since these threads come up so often.. I'll see if I can buy the 118 hammer and measure them.. or if someone already owns the 118Max, they could send it to me, and I'll disassemble both on video and measure everything pertaining to performance (orfice sizes, diameter of air galleys, trigger flow rates) and even make a video comparing performance on a few different things. I'm currently disassembling my 96 Dodge 2500 diesel 5-speed (rclb 4x4) that was totalled in a crash 2.5 years ago, and I've been using the 3050 almost exclusively to cut things apart.. so I could compare the 2 hammers on a lot of things.. cutting sheet metal, cutting bolts, pushing d60 ball joints, carrier bearings/pinion bearings, leaf spring bushings, you name it..
The only thing I've come across the 3050 could NOT do, was removing the pitman arm off the steering box on the Dodge. I even wedged a 2' long taper punch between the box and arm and tried hammering off the arm to no avail. Some of that may be I don't have a 2' chisel tip so the angle I was trying to push it at wasn't the greatest.
Murphy4570
Well-known member
Dude that is work for a pitman arm puller, not an air hammer. I have seen those bastards stuck on steering boxes so tight, that it takes a breaker bar and cheater pipe to get enough leverage on it, and the steering box shaft started mushrooming out from the pressure. That was on a '03 6.0L Excursion.
I have the Snappy PH3050A, and absolutely LOVE the thing. Very best air hammer money can buy, IMO. I have used it to beat on damn near everything, and it has never failed me. I have used to to beat out balljoints on 1/2 ton trucks more than once.
purplezr2
Well-known member
fyi there are some great deals out there on th 3050 payed 150 shipped for a very lightly used one
The IR instruction manual is pretty useless ... in 50 different languages. Just a few questions since I have never used one of these tools before:
1. Do you have to secure the quick change retainer after screwing it onto the cylinder by tightening the three Allen head screws?
2. When I insert a bit into the quick change retainer it is not secured tight like I expected; instead it has quite a lot of play along the axis.
3. Is it okay to connect a quick disconnect to it without going through a whip hose like the manual suggests?
Thanks.
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Farmrod
Well-known member
I've got the 3050a but I think I might buy the 118 to do a comparison the 3050 has done everything I've ever asked it to plus some
firebox40dash5
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The IR instruction manual is pretty useless ... in 50 different languages. Just a few questions since I have never used one of these tools before:
1. Do you have to secure the quick change retainer after screwing it onto the cylinder by tightening the three Allen head screws?
Very much so.
2. When I insert a bit into the quick change retainer it is not secured tight like I expected; instead it has quite a lot of play along the axis.
Which axis? Never noticed with mine.
3. Is it okay to connect a quick disconnect to it without going through a whip hose like the manual suggests?
It ain't broke yet.
Thanks.
Yeah, I figured out that first one when the retainer unscrewed itself and took off with the bit. I had tightened the set screws, but I guess I hadn't TIGHTENED them.
The other air hammer in the shop is some Snappy, maybe a 3050, maybe something else. It's got about no trigger modulation, it's pretty much on or off. Maybe it's just because it's old, I dunno... but I like the feel of my 118, and I haven't had the Snappy succeed at anything my IR couldn't do.