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Ball valve extended drain on Craftsman air compressor (pics!)

jesse72

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Sep 26, 2011
Messages
352
Location
California
I thought I would share this with everyone. I just did this today but have been wanting to and researching is for a while. I hate that the a/c came with a small drain valve that was impossible to get to without tipping the a/c over. Why would they even sell it like this? Anyways, I found on google this way to make a longer ball valve drain. This is the website that I referanced:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/compressor/drain/ball_valve.htm

First I moved the a/c away from the wall and unplugged it, then drained the air. A little water came out but its been about a week or so since I started using it.
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Then I removed the old small usless plug/drain that craftsman installed at the factory...
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Once that was out I laid out my new parts and began assembly. This is my first time doing any plumbing like this so I hope that I used the right of thread lock! Here is my parts list:
-Ball Valve, ¼" NPT
-¼" *******, 2", 6", 6"
-1/4" dual female connector
-¼" Street Elbow
-¼" 90º Elbow
-Pipe Thread Compound

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I didnt use the small cresent wrench though but the a vice was handy but not necessary
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I hope that was the right way to do the thread compound. I cant think of another way! haha
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I made the mistake of putting the 90 degree street elbow on before putting it on the air compressor. So that came off and I installed it on the a/c alone. This is because with the wheels and stand you cannot spin the whole tube on at once.
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And thats all she wrote. It was easy to to and only took about 20 mins. If you see something I did wrong, feel free to say so on the thread so that I can fix it and also so if someone is using this as a referance then they know the right way.
I know this will make me want to drain the water alot more just because its not such a pain in the ****. So al little work now, and maybe it'll save the compressor later! Thanks guys, enjoy
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PT Doc

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Nov 12, 2010
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3,197
If you ever move the comp you will regret the length of all the piping. Soapy water spray test all the joints. You could get the appropriate length pipe threaded and tidy it up. Otherwise, well done. :)
 

NitroPress

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Jul 26, 2011
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Location
Aurora, CO
Almost exactly what I did on my almost-identical Craftsman. I ran the pipe through the wheel bracket to give it some safety and support, and used some clear poly tubing to make a safe extension - one that will direct the spray further from the body of the compressor tank, but won't take a bite out of my foot should I kick it. Yours sticks out just a wee bit far and has no mechanical support - if you snag it or step on it, you're likely to break the plumbing. Maybe re-route it so it goes through the wheel bracket, and use a big wire tie to hold it there against vibration?

Good job, though. I'm ashamed to admit that I didn't know I should purge my compressor tank until I read it here. I ran mine in a very dry climate, though, so only about a pint of water came out after three years or so of light usage.
 
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jesse72

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Sep 26, 2011
Messages
352
Location
California
Thanks for the input guys, and good heads up on mine being a bit long. I could only find 6" and 2" pipe at homedepot so I made this up with what I had. Its ok though, I dont move it much but can make a better one some day when I need to. I also wanted the ball pipe handle to be outside the compressor so I didnt have to reach under to get to it blindly. Thanks!
 

onthefence777

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Feb 19, 2012
Messages
404
At work, they installed a ball valve with a quick disconnect fitting on the other end. Then it has an air hose with a trigger spray fitting. It reaches far enough to go out the shop door to spray outdoors. Was a nice touch, and I plan to do the same with mine.

Thought I would share what I think is a good idea.
 

bts

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Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
109
Location
Perth. Australia
With my compressors being in a seperate shed and me being to lazy too go out and drop the tanks I have run lines inside to this setup.
Open the ball-valve and drain the water from the individual tanks. I can watch how much water is coming out through the clear line which then dumps the water outside the shed.
The gages let me see what the compressors are doing.

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Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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SE PA
onthefence777..GREAT idea with a hose/quick connect.

I have one of the coil hoses I never use. Now, I have a use for it.

I put the ball valve on my compressor long ago, but it's hassle to drain as it makes a mess on the floor.
 

sberry

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Brethren, Michigan
Sure, used old copper line and fittings, t all of mine together, crack valve on each one once in a while, plumbed to a common line thru the wall.
 

Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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SE PA
I took the idea of a quick connect today and did something similar. I already had connected some piping and a ball valve to the original drain...but it was a mess to drain.

I took one of the 50' cheaper brand coil hoses from Lowes and attached it to the ball valve. Then, connected one of my lesser blow guns. I wanted to keep both parts dedicated to this purpose to avoid having moisture, etc, in a hose that could be used elsewhere.

It worked great...I opened the valve, then stretched the hose outside and got all the moisture out.

Thanks for the tip!
 

pipsters

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That's a good idea to hook a blow gun to it permanently, you always need one plus it serves a purpose.
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Napa Valley, California
Looks good, overall.

I did almost exactly the same thing, with a similar compressor. I think you will be happier with the tube going out towards the front, like you have it. When I had mine sticking out the back, it only let me tilt it back a couple of degrees, and moving it was very difficult.
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You may want to expand your air compressor 'plumbing' project to the outlets too...NPT pipe is a VERY simple way to add your own manifold and save some money over commercially-available manifolds, and you can add as many outlets as you want. Just make sure you get the outlets on the correct side of the pressure valve. Also, you many want to build one extra piece at a time and test it. It was tough to hunt down all the leaks after building the whole manifold at once...
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Gary S

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Dec 27, 2008
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Bismarck, ND
I'd have some concerns about it breaking off with the vibration of the pump after enough hours of runtime. This is a place that a flexible rubber hose might be better.
 
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SGKent

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Feb 12, 2010
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Citrus Heights CA
we just did something like this too but a plumber in the store at the time warned me against using the 90 degree street elbow and we used a heavy brass 90 degree fitting to transition from the tank instead. He said that the cast 90 degree street elbows are very prone to breaking as he sees them busted all the time at the threads on jobs he is called to.

Street Elbow

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darkzero

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Oct 20, 2011
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I was also advised not to use galvanized as it will eventually rust through & break off. Would be years before that would possibly happen but I didn't want to have to worry about it. I used all brass.


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Matt M PA

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Hmmm....now that I've done my setup with the hose....I'm thinkin'.

As much as I hate to make holes into the walls of the garage...maybe I should have made a hole, and sent the metal line outside? On the outlet side, I could even mount one of those plaques for mounting light fixtures on siding to make it look decent.

Any down sides to having this exit outside?
 

darkzero

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Oct 20, 2011
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SoCal
Where did you get those foot pads?

Chris

You can buy pads like that through MSC, Mcmaster-Carr, and Grainger.

Yup, they're Mason Machinery mounts. I get them from enco as they are always on sale & they offer quantity discounts. I bought 8 on a 20% sale day so I got them at a great price.

Those are the MLS-1000 which is overkill for the compressor but they were extras that I had laying around that I took off the lathe. That corner of the garage where I have the compressor is not very level so they worked out great. I originally had 8 of them on the lathe & replaced four with solid mounts.

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jesse72

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Sep 26, 2011
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352
Location
California
You guys have some great ideas. Honestly I kinda jumped into this piping because I finally found the way to di it. When I get a permanant house that I own (soon I hope!) then I will make a sweet manifold like was mentioned and also a better drain. Now that it was mentioned about the vibration of the motor eventually breaking the street elbow Ill be checking it regularly to keep an eye on it.
 

DisplacedMic

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Mar 25, 2012
Messages
3
I registered here after find this awesome thread via google. why do the valves they put on these things **** so hard? i can't believe i never thought of doing this - i have been breaking my knuckles emptying my tank for the last few years and this never dawned on me? must be sucking in too much of that nasty valve-water mist.

thanks for posting and thanks to everyone else for some great ideas
 
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jesse72

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Sep 26, 2011
Messages
352
Location
California
Im glad that you found it and welcome to the site! Im glad that I could help out too! Ive found so many things on this site in the short time Ive been on it!
 

rodm1

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Feb 17, 2008
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2,270
You did a good job on the fabrication:thumbup::thumbup:. A tip on pipe that is imported from china or mexico use PTFE tape 3 wraps then cover with pipe dope it will help the $itty threads to seal. Important especially on the higher PSI of air lines.
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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50 mi south of Atlanta
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If you do not support that pipe, it WILL break off at the street ell eventually, probably sooner than you think. Mine has a hose I can put in a bucket and vent (carefully) the drain into it occasionally.

Charles
 

jamesemery728

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May 2, 2009
Messages
961
You did a great job on the plumbing and the pictures were excellent too. The only thing I would do different is direct the water in a different direction rather than shoot all that moisture under your tool box. Looks like a good way to start rusting your tool box and/or your tools.
 

odie

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Sep 14, 2007
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Southern Indiana
Where is the best place to source all the parts needed for this project? Will the big box stores (Home Depot/Lowes) carry what I need?

Thanks
 

DirtRoad

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Oct 24, 2012
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Lowell, Mi
Where is the best place to source all the parts needed for this project? Will the big box stores (Home Depot/Lowes) carry what I need?

Thanks

Yes any hardware store.

Cheapest place to get the valve is harbor freight. I spent $12 at ace hardware on the valve when i could have gotten it from HF for 2.99.
 

64Trvlr

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Sep 7, 2012
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Northern AZ
Also, you many want to build one extra piece at a time and test it. It was tough to hunt down all the leaks after building the whole manifold at once...

An easy way to find leaks is to use soapy water on all the fittings. You will be able to see any leaks you have.
 
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