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What have you done with your interior garage walls?

Cobra Jet

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Jan 25, 2007
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384
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Southern NJ
I know some of you have some really nice garages and most seem to just paint their interior walls. Walls that have been properly taped, spackled, nailed (or screwed), smoothed and have an excellent base to start with, painting obviously is the best and least expensive route to take (and of course, turns out magnificent on nicely prepared walls).

But, what about those that do not have a "near perfect" base drywall to start with - such as poor tape/spackle jobs, nail pops and/or only "roughed in" walls done by the previous owner and/or home building contractor?

What else can be done with interior garage walls? :dunno:

Are there any type of wall coverings that can be used instead of painting? I was looking at sheet goods to go over the wallboard, as most can be purchased in 4'x8' sections, but, cost is a factor. Then again, cost is also a factor to have someone come to the home and re-do all of the taping, nail pops, spackle, etc. properly OR even to lay over new drywall on top of the existing.

I see sub sections on this site for certain aspects of a garage, but nothing for or about interior wall ideas.

For those of you in a similar situation - can you post up what you have done, or what your future plans are for your garage walls?

I also thought of buying old signs, posters, etc to go over the existing walls instead of investing a bunch of $$$ on the walls, but obviously, it would be costly to do that as well and I'm not really resolving the initial concern... LOL.

What about ceilings - have you just painted the ceilings, or used any "pop corn" type application? I thought about pop-corning the ceiling, but I'm not sure if that is "out of date" or would look totally stupid.


~~~

My 2 car garage interior was previously dry walled (walls & ceiling) by the home contractor who built the house (1994). It is all insulated, has a 14ft ceiling (IIRC) and from the floor up to about 3.5-4ft is the common cinderblock foundation that encompasses the entire garage (which I can easily paint w/ proper product). None of the walls were ever painted, so it's all original, bare drywall. The prep that was done, was for the most part, common contractor work done quickly and not finished very well, since it was "just a garage".

~~~

Any help, ideas, thoughts, etc is appreciated.
 
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Doug1

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Feb 23, 2011
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Charleston, SC
Just did my small secondary garage with beadboard and 1/4 trim. I ran 2x4s between the studs all the way around at 36" 72" and 96" so I can nail heavy items in at that height, along with attaching any benches or cabinets. The beadboard is 3/8 thick so it will hold a screw or nail fine as long as it is not something really heavy.

This whole thing was very inexpensive to do. Less than $800 in materials and just basic cutting a nailing.

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JTG

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Sep 24, 2009
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408
Location
New Jersey
My garage was in a similar situation as yours except 3 of my 4 walls were not insulated. For these I pulled down the sheetrock, insulated, installed new sheetrock, spackled, taped and painted. These turned out well. For the other wall I just touched up some of the contractor grade taping and painted.

My garage is not one of the pristine ones with a racedeck or epoxy floor. As much as I would like it to be when I see how some of these look it's not going to happen at this point. I have barely enough time and money to do the hobbies I enjoy so I can live with the garage as it is.

If you want more than you can do with some spackle and paint I don't think it would cost a lot to have someone come in and smooth out the walls for you.
 
OP
C

Cobra Jet

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Jan 25, 2007
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384
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Southern NJ
Just did my small secondary garage with beadboard and 1/4 trim. I ran 2x4s between the studs all the way around at 36" 72" and 96" so I can nail heavy items in at that height, along with attaching any benches or cabinets. The beadboard is 3/8 thick so it will hold a screw or nail fine as long as it is not something really heavy.

This whole thing was very inexpensive to do. Less than $800 in materials and just basic cutting a nailing.

IMAG0281.jpg


IMAG0285.jpg


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Doug1 - Wow, that turned out nice! This is what I meant in reference to seeing select "sheet goods" that could go over the drywall. Do you have future plans of painting, or leaving as is?


~~~

JTG - my floor, well, entire garage is still "as is" contractor grade as built... LOL. I'm trying to figure out how to go about the walls first, my floor - well, that is a future "project", if I even get that far. :lol:
 

Trainman

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Mar 9, 2007
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362
Location
Apalachin NY
Another vote for the beadboard here. My garage had a crappy drywall and paint job from when the house was built in 1976. It also had a grand total of one 15 amp outlet and no insulation, so a couple years ago I tore the drywall out, ran two 20 amp circuits (and now wish I'd run 240 out there), insulated, and put up beadboard on the two walls not adjoining the house. For the third wall adjoining the house I had previously replaced the drywall several years ago, and the thought of taping and mudding the rest of the garage was not appealing, so I went with the beadboard. I thought about leaving it natural, but I painted it white using exterior paint so it could be cleaned if necessary. The ceiling is still the crappy drywall, and I'd be interested to see what others have done and how much it cost.
 

Gary S

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Dec 27, 2008
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Bismarck, ND
I've had 3 garages. #1 had wood paneling. It was OK. #2 had drywall. It sucked really bad. #3 has OSB. It is the top of my list.
If you want a playroom, do drywall. If you want a work place, use OSB.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,198
Location
The Badlands
I had mostly bare studs when I bought this place. Before I even moved in here, we came over with a load of insulation and drywall, and insulated and rocked the place (after an hour of pulling nails and crappy shelves...). I finished the rock smooth, then primed it, then painted it with high gloss white and a thick 1/2" nap roller.

It came out semi stippled, and reflected the lights I installed next well (lights, and power all over in conduit, surface mounted. I also pulled in a sub panel to feed it all.

That paint is still holding up 25 years later, and is easy to clean if oil gets splattered.

While OSB or ply gives you something more solid to attach to, I hate the look of the stuff painted. I did use a magic marker on the sheet rock to mark every stub near the bottom of the wall before painting, and of course that bled through both primer and paint, so I know where it go if I do need something to anchor to...
 

fourjeepin

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Feb 12, 2011
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Atlanta, GA
Mine started off as an attached carport. When I enclosed it, I put up white pegboard on the side walls. Ceiling is beadboard painted white. Looks nice, except on some seams where the previous owner didn't put anything behind them.
 

santagary

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Pagosa Springs, Colorado

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JC23

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I used primed sheets of T-111 and i even painted the back and edges to avoid mold.

And it's strong enuf to hang stuff on!
 

The Hot Rod Grille

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Jul 29, 2005
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Winfield, WV
I used primed sheets of T-111 and i even painted the back and edges to avoid mold.

And it's strong enuf to hang stuff on!



^^^^ +1 on the T-111. I used a light grey semi-transparent stain to give the wood an "aged" look. Ceiling is smooth drywall with flat white paint.

Jim
 

markwright247

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Jun 11, 2012
Messages
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I recently fixed up my garage and I had similar concerns as yours. I used wall coverings because they were beautiful and relatively inexpensive. I would not recommend that you popcorn your ceiling. Most people prefer the clean, smooth look these days!
 

zuk123

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Mar 25, 2012
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957
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Houston TX via Chicago, Phoenix, LA, and San Diego
I put up 1/2 inch plywood and painted it white. It's been great because you can put a screw in it anywhere. I do wish I'd insulated behind it.

The ply was not much more than OSB and looks much nicer IMO. (It always goes on sale around here after the first big hurricane scare of the year.)

Some sheets are vertical, and some are horizontal. I just ran them in the way that made the most sense to hit the existing (very inconsistent studs.) When they are all painted the same, and you have shelves or other things on them, you don't notice the seams or the changes in sheet orientation.


It was fast, cheap, sturdy, and the white REALLY improves the look and usability of the garage.

zuk
 

elderstarr

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Apr 7, 2011
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98
Lots and lots of banners. Hang as needed.

1965gp... I love the look of the fenceboards.
 
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Rich H.

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Nov 30, 2010
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SE Michigan
"But, what about those that do not have a "near perfect" base drywall to start with - such as poor tape/spackle jobs, nail pops and/or only "roughed in" walls done by the previous owner and/or home building contractor?"


My mud work is amateur and for good reason, I did it! And I describe myself as "ok" at best in my skills. There are areas that are near perfect and others I'm not so proud of, but it still looks fine to me overall.

I would not sweat it too much, as long as your drywall is taped and the tape is staying on it. If you want it to look smoother than what it is, then just mud it some more.

White paint hides a multitude of sins and helps with lighting.

It's what you do in there that matters, not what it looks like!

http://garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=159244&d=1325290399
 

Lvnspeed

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Mar 6, 2013
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37
Here is mine. I started hand painting old auto related logos on my walls.
 

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silver2k2gt

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Feb 12, 2013
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I am doing a Ceramic Checkered half wall and then paint on top. Starting the process and will be updating my progress my thread.
 

JC23

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Northcoast
Just bumping this to see if there's any more opinions, ideas and/or product use for thread topic...

I can add a few more details to my build. My walls are nine feet so I made a pair of OSB strips, six inches wide and put them at the top and bottom of the wall. It made nice transitions to the ceiling and plates and aslo saved me mega bucks in buying nine foot sheets.

The T-111 I used is already primed so it's not 'fuzzy' and won't catch dust as much as the unprimed version.

Underneath, I used regular batt insulation in my 2X4 walls. One tip on insulation is using that no itch stuff in the corners and where you have to do a lot of cutting and fitting. Then use the cheaper, regular stuff on straight runs.
 

GQ//22

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Jan 31, 2013
Messages
59
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Pac NW
I have finished walls with a tape and mud job that is.... garage appropriate. I painted mine with white sheet rock primer, and then rolled a heavy coat of titanium white semi-gloss over the top using a 1/2" nap roller. the results have been great, and yes, while I can see the seams a bit, I don't care. Chances are good that I will end up putting up a couple racing framed posters or something to add some color, soon I will know for sure.
 

harleycontracter

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Mar 9, 2013
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Connecticut
Decided on T&G pine. I'm in the process now......................
 

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Alfster

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Jul 3, 2006
Messages
23
Mine has been lined with plywood and painted white. Then covered in Hot Wheels and other stuff so you don't even see the walls.
 

Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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3,174
Location
SE PA
My detached is finished with SmartPanel. It looks like T1-11, but goes together like tongue and groove...comes primed.

My attached smaller garage had beat-up sheetrock. The ceiling isn't real high (house is a split level) so I did slatwall from the ceiling down...then tileboard from the bottom. The slatwall is great for organization...and the tileboard wipes off if splashed. I back the Viper in that garage and it's exhaust is straight out the back.
 

cvcman

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Feb 6, 2009
Messages
815
Location
Syracuse NY
I sheetrocked mine but did not finish or tape it...painted it celeing flat white,,,,now If I need to run a wire or anything I just unscrew the sheet...
it looks fine,,,I have a suspended ceiling
 

71virgil

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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
18
Keep watching craigslist for free stuff or cheap materials. I've finished the inside of my shop with mostly free slotwall from a local cell phone company that was remodeling their stores. I'd get 5 or 6 4x8 sheets at a time and put them up as I got them. I got really lucky on this stuff. It's fully functional and looks good too.
I have a lot of **** - but I use it all. I have most of it hanging and I know where it is and if it's missing, I know right away.

I've redone the inside of my shed at least twice in 2 years. I hadn't planned on having the money or materials to finish the inside, so it's definitely been a challenge/blessing/struggle!
Here's a few pics for your enjoyment/boredom.

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Scott H in Wheaton

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Mar 18, 2013
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Plainfield, suburb of Indianapolis
My 2 car garage has 2 walls insulated and drywalled, no tape or mud. Just prime and paint white for cleanliness and light reflection. And I can unscrew it and work behind it with wiring or plumbing if I want to.

The third wall is to set the theme of the garage as a place to work on my 1936 Ford pickup. I covered the walls with brick 4x8 paneling and I'm starting to put vintage garage items on the wall. I picked up a curbcycle vintage wood medicine cabinet and installed it between the studs in as-found condition. 1x4 trim boards painted black make a nice border.
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