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Restored "Customized" Blackhawk Q.D. Wrench Set 32-CD (ca. 1930)

Private Lugnutz

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Presenting “Black Hills Gold”

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Source Notes

I bought the original set in neglected, rusted, but restorable condition at the Collingwood Flea Market in Collingwood, NJ. It included the “C” type attache-style case, and most of the handles, attachments, and sockets, which were 1/2-inch square drive.

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My research included Alloy Artifacts, self-study of the set itself, and collaboration with other Blackhawk collectors here at the GJ. The construction and markings of the sockets, the contents - especially some of the handles, the spark plug socket, the square-drive sockets, and the valve grinder adapter - told me it was “Quick Disconnect” (Q.D.) era and a 32-CD set. (Blackhawk Q.D. nomenclature indicates the number of pieces in a set.)

Member CRTDI, in particular, was very helpful in providing this 1931 catalog scan of a Q.D. 32-CD ad...

Blackhawk32-CD.jpg

(I especially dig the part about cussing and the exponential math.)

... as well as much appreciated interpretations, opinions, in-process feedback, and encouragement.

One significant note: I discovered that the information posted in a table on the Alloy Artifacts site about the contents of this set is erroneous with respect to the large (15/16” – 1/1/16”) sockets, which were at one time included in double-hex (12-point) pattern and construction as both the catalog and my set attest.

I posted a WANTED thread here on the GJ (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2333184#post2333184) and, in rapid order, started buying missing pieces from other members.

My appreciation and credits go out to those members as follows...
2oolhound: D16, D18, D19 and D22 double-hex (12-point) sockets
Jusridin: T-60 six inch extension with patented “rotating-grip” handle
Greg-nwo: 110X Offset Handle and T-10 10-inch extension

I cannibalized the remaining Q.D. pieces – a T-4 Sliding Tee, and D30 and D31 hex sockets – from a Blackhawk Q.D. 19-AD Wrench Set of the same vintage that I acquired from a popular on-line auction site.

I acquired the 1-1/6” double-hex socket in a separate action from the same site. It is marked “40134” rather than “D34,” as it should be, and is of slightly later 1930’s vintage and “Lock-On” construction. While I would like to eventually replace it with a “D34”, I think it adds a nice forward-looking touch, technology wise, for Blackhawk aficionados, and since the set is not mint, NOS, or factory-class, but used and restored, it’s certainly within the realm of plausibility that the owner would’ve replaced a bunged up socket or two along the way.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Restoration Notes

TOOLS
I cleaned the tools with a very brief dip in a 20% HCL solution (TheWorks toilet bowl cleaner), rinsed thoroughly with cold water, and oiled. This removed the rust and revealed a residue of black paint, consistent with information found in AA and catalogs.

I painted the tools with two coatings of Rustoleum 248932 500-deg F Gloss Black Engine Enamel and reduced the gloss to a satin finish with very fine (0000 grade) steel wool. I chose this method over applying black satin to achieve a finish consistent with the original factory spec (per catalog) yet more durable to dings and stains as a collectible.

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CASE
I slowly wet-sanded the case with 600-grit sandpaper by hand to ascertain the original finish, which revealed the remains of an uncertain mottling of bronze-ish tones on the exterior, and a more uniform bronze or copper color on the inside.

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Preserved specimens of similar sets (18-AD, 22-CD, etc) shown on AA and various on-line auction sites confirmed examples of the elemental (bronze, copper, gold) interior, but I could find no evidence or pictures of any specified exterior color, let alone the “two-toned crackle finish” referenced in the 1931 catalog advertisement. I decided to follow the catalog and my instincts.

After stripping the case with acetone and steel wool, I re-painted the exterior and interior with two coatings of Rustoleum 7274 Antique Bronze Metallic, using very fine (0000 grade) steel wool in between coats and before a sub-final coat of Rustoleum 7701 Crystal Clear Enamel. For the exterior “crackled finish” look, I used Elmer’s Glue as a crackling medium, spread directly on top of the clearcoat, a DIY technique I found on-line. Over the top of the tacky glue, I spread thickly even amounts of Benjamin Moore Premium Regal Flat Black latex, and the crackling ensued almost immediately. After it stopped crackling and dried, I sealed the crackled coat with another coat of the clear enamel.

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DECAL
The reproduction Blackhawk decal comes from John Brantley at Military Steel Helmets and Decals (http://www.military-steel-helmets-and-decals.com/). John will create replica decals (waterslide type) from any original images.

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Private Lugnutz

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Paraphernalia Notes

LINER
The two (2) leather liner pieces – one for the main compartment, and one for the socket tray – come from GJ member GirlInAGarage.

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I noted some of her fine work on wrench roll-ups and asked for her help. The leather is vegetable tanned Hermann Oak from the great state of Texas, cut to my specifications, with beveled edges, light sanding and light acrylic finish. I dyed it to a copper-tone color by exposing it to sunlight for 2 days, burnished the edges with a dowel of wood and water, then applied beeswax, according to her instructions.

I burned the original Blackhawk “Arrowhead” logo into the main piece myself with a wood-burning kit…

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…working from this vintage image.

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I thought the leather liner and the burned-in emblem would accentuate the theme of Blackhawk’s own branding and give the impression of a proud former owner applying in his day an old-timer’s version of what we might call “tricked out” today.

NATIVE AMERICAN TOTEM
I made this myself. The thong is a Kiwi rawhide boot lace. The charms are river stones, cored and polished by my friend, who makes her own jewelry. The wire is copper. The feathers were harvested from the carcasses of a Red-Tailed Hawk and a Great Horned Owl, both of which I found dead in the woods a long time ago.

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OLD COPPER ARROWHEAD KEY FOB
This came to me as a child from my Uncle Dutch, who acquired it from a roadside stand in the Badlands.

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VINTAGE BLACKHAWK MANUFACTURING COMPANY NOTECARD
I acquired this company form, which was obviously sent to customers, from a popular on-line auction site.

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TOTAL RESTORATION DURATION: 30 days

ACTUAL RESTORATION TIME: ~20 hours

TOTAL COST: ~$250

END NOTE:
This was my very first restoration project from outside the WW2 Militaria domain, so go easy on me – although I have to say I am pleased with the results.

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2oolhound

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Congratulations on completion of this project! Your perseverance paid off! Happy to see these fine old tools so appreciated and cared for!

The "NATIVE AMERICAN TOTEM" really adds a lot of charm to the set. Well done!
 

1320stang

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I love it, but have one question. Why didn't you work the dents out in the tray? I don't mean to perfection, but not as deep as they are?

BTW, I'll see if I have a D34.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Thanks, 2oolhound.

Good question, Larry,and one that goes to the heart of my self-critique. Short answer is lack of confidence, impatience, and uncertainty. I was a little concerned about the integrity of the piece, making things worse or unrecoverable trying to goldbeat the thing into straight. It also has some thin skin and pin holes, less visible now, caused by unchecked corrosion. I half thought about trying to patch those up, too, with brazing. In the end, decided to leave it as is. The hardware is a similar example. The clasps and hinges are in very good working condition, and I was concerned about removing them, so didn't; re-finished in place instead. The uncertainty goes to the identity of the piece. Is it preserved? Restored? A little of both, I guess. The dents say preserved, the new crackle finish says restored. I wrestled with that, knowing it would be a tweener, but was as hellbent on not messing with the dents as I was on gussying the thing up.

Hope it's not too unsightly/incongruous.
 

CRTDI

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I think it's great that you took on this project. This is an old tool set that normally a lot of people wouldn't really get to excited about. However, I think these old Q.D. sets are actually quite interesting with their different tool configurations and case finishes. It's really nice to see this set be brought back to life.

I get the sense that the copper arrowhead you got from your uncle as a child must have helped inspire your restoration and your tasteful custom touches.

The replica decal looks like a quality piece...pretty amazing actually.

Excellent job!!!....I'm looking forward to seeing the next restored Q.D. set. :thumbup:
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Thanks, CRTDI!

It was Blackhawk's own branding that inspired my thematic approach to the custom touches, and that deep bronze-copper-golden color found inside so many of these old Q.D. cases. In addition to the original arrowhead Indian Head emblem and its restyled resurgence on the Chief and Master Chief wrench set boxes in the 40's and 50's, I'm sure you've noted that they deftly incorporated two feathers into their logo name, one flying off the top of each "A". But I wasn't too far into it when I remembered the key fob and how well it would fit. (I have some silver ones, as well as a bunch of actual arrowheads from him as well.)

I still don't know if this is what a crackled finish looked like in 1930, but it looks convincing to me. Akin to some gun cases (and musical instrument cases) of that noisy, dashing, highly upholstered era, in which the roadsters had names like Phaeton and Zephyr, plush cushioning on the doors, and big straight 8's (or 16's!) under the hood.

Next up is the Blackhawk 18-AD I raided for pcs - a smaller case with fewer tools, which was expressly purposed for "students" (which I interpret as apprentice mechanics) and "automobile owners".
 

4x4gearhead

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I really like the black, Brings the finish right back. The detail that went into the case is really nice too. I have an old WWII era fv-71 that Id like to blue after seeing I believe elroy's.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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I really like the black, Brings the finish right back.

I would've re-done this set anyway, whatever the tools finish, but it really was a stroke of good fortune to discover that the tools were finished out of the factory in satin black. I have an affinity for it, having restored several sets of Williams Superior wrenches, as well as Billings & Spencer and Vlchek 11IN AUTO wrenches in black japan.

4x4gearhead said:
I have an old WWII era fv-71 that Id like to blue after seeing I believe elroy's.

FWIW, I've never blued a ratchet or anything with moving parts, but I have blued many DOEs and DBEs for wartime kit sets. I find it to be an excellent and much cheaper alternative to re-parkerizing, convincingly approximating the original dark natural steel finish of that era. It does take some trial and error (amount, number of coats, duration of post-immersion in water, etc), and it is highly susceptible to any surface matter and imperfections that will cause a botchy discoloration (unless you blast everything). If you point me to the pertinent thread, I'd be interested in reading up on what elroy or others have to say on subject.

Very nice :beer:

Couldn't've done it without you, Girl! Maybe we can clink mugs for real one day. In the meantime, stay tuned for more orders - this one a bit trickier, with lots of little compartments...:evil:
 
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chopper1

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Very nice job, Lugnutz. I'm impressed.
I have my set out at my tool sale today and was looking at it trying to figure out what I want to do with it if it doesn't sell. I'd like to finish it as you did, but my set was done with a chrome finish and it would be too much of a job to remove it all. And, to refinish in paint would leave too many 'blemishes' if it wasn't removed because of all the chrome loss.
You've really got me thinking now.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Thanks, chopper. Yours and CRTDI's dialogue on the 'vintage' thread was indispensable in keeping me going.

I can see your dilemma. The "C" style attache case is the same and would restore nicely in crackled, mottled, or any solid finish. (I had a half a mind to keep mine all bronze by the way, which looked sweet.) Really not much choice with those 9xxx series chrome-plated era tools, though. You either have to try to blast it all off with heavy medium or paint over.
 

Thumper

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Restored..? Preserved..? Call it whatever you want......it's BADASS..!!! Excellent job.....I'd display with pride...a piece of American tool history in all it's glory..! :rocker:
 

Elroy

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If you point me to the pertinent thread, I'd be interested in reading up on what elroy or others have to say on subject.


You can find a few details of Elroy's efforts here:

Ya mean something like this

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Good blue requires a little polish

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Started out rusty

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Turned out blue

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Nothing but a little time and effort.

Done for a friend

Detailed steps were discussed "over there"
 

vssjim

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may not be original but man it really came out great and just over all a tribute to the tool maker and a good job to make an old set a mantle peice.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Thanks, LB, vssjim, and Dave. 'Ppreciate the appreciation...

Nice work, Elroy - and thanks for posting. I am partial to Birchwood Casey, but just in case you're still experimenting, note that it produces much lighter results, which I prefer.
 

wng-2

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I found my Grandfather's empty tool box yesterday. A Google search led me to this forum. It's on the wall in my barn now.
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2oolhound

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:thumbup:
Welcome to GJ! It's nice to see your GF's box getting a place of prominence. Great patina on the decal.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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I found my Grandfather's empty tool box yesterday. A Google search led me to this forum. It's on the wall in my barn now.
Looks terrific up there. A fitting location and tribute!

Sorry I did not reply sooner. I didn't see this until now. EDIT: Looks like it was a No. 32-C Set. Faint label under the brand label.
 
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