Having narrowed it down to these 2 brands, both of which I can get service for if necessary, which is the better one to get? Mohawk uses larger cylinders run at lower pressure, heavier steel in posts, larger footprint for stability, no overhead cables, bearings instead of UHMW sliding blocks, but does cost approx $1500 more. Rotary is less expensive, is used by most of the local car dealers & repair shops, has the largest dealer network, haven't heard anything bad about them, is superior to the chinese 'hobby' lifts, but has more parts made in china than the Mohawk. Either will lift anything I will ever own or work on. Is the heavier build of the mohawk going to make it last longer than a rotary? What do you guys think, if you could have either one, which one would you pick & why?
10K 2 post lift: Mohawk or Rotary?
- Thread starter SteveU
- Start date
I own a Mohawk a 10,000 pound System One and I’m very happy about the purchase. But the determining factor for my particular application was not having to deal with the overhead cables. Along with the significantly lower column heights. Those two items alone outweighed the price difference. However when trying to compare a Rotary and a Mohawk is like talking apples and oranges. As there are totally different breeds and a world apart in design.
I paid $5850 for my Mohawk, while the Rotary was $3200.00. Makes no sense at all, and I would recommend to anyone to purchase the Rotary lift. Either one you would need to put in your will so your children wouldn’t fight over it.
Then again if you can purchase a Mohawk for only $1500.00 more than a Rotary. I’d say go for the Mohawk.
My Mohawk lift
I paid $5850 for my Mohawk, while the Rotary was $3200.00. Makes no sense at all, and I would recommend to anyone to purchase the Rotary lift. Either one you would need to put in your will so your children wouldn’t fight over it.
Then again if you can purchase a Mohawk for only $1500.00 more than a Rotary. I’d say go for the Mohawk.
My Mohawk lift
Jbullfrog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mohawk all the way. The Mohawk is hydraulic lift with no cables to break and fool proof safety systems. They are alot heavier and more durable. The hydraulics are covered for life.
My uncle bought 1 for $900 and I got the mate for a buddy for $750 from a service body manufacturer that was using them to hold bodies up for under-coating.
My uncle bought 1 for $900 and I got the mate for a buddy for $750 from a service body manufacturer that was using them to hold bodies up for under-coating.
I ran across a guy on another forum who had used a Mohawk for 35 yrs and only spent something like $200 total in maintenance over that time using it in a shop environment. Wondering how the maint on a comparable Rotary would stack up over this period of time? The guy I spoke with from Mohawk said the 10K Mohawk is equivalent to a 12K Rotary & the truck Rotary shows on their 12K is almost identical to the one Mohawk shows on their 10K so there may be some merit to this. I like not having the overhead cable guide thing + overkill is a good thing when there is a few tons overhead. Does anyone have a 10K rotary here? I have looked at all the literature they sent and everything on the website but don't find anything about what thickness of steel or cylinder diameter/operating pressure like Mohawk has. I saw something about the life expectancy of a lift being 15 yrs but can't remember where I saw it or whether it was on a different manufacturers site 
Does anyone know of a test done to determine how many cycles these are rated for? Lord willing, I will be using this for 30+ yrs & my youngest daughter likes to tear things apart so if she gets interested in working on cars we would be looking at 50+yrs of weekend warrior duty so the few bucks extra up front isn't a big factor. The more I do this, the stronger the case for the Mohawk gets, anyone want to make a case for Rotary?
Does anyone know of a test done to determine how many cycles these are rated for? Lord willing, I will be using this for 30+ yrs & my youngest daughter likes to tear things apart so if she gets interested in working on cars we would be looking at 50+yrs of weekend warrior duty so the few bucks extra up front isn't a big factor. The more I do this, the stronger the case for the Mohawk gets, anyone want to make a case for Rotary?Where’s Bmwpower when we need him? He owns a Rotary lift that he purchased new a short while ago.
I cannot imagine why a Rotary lift couldn’t give you 20 years worth of weekend use without having to do any major costly repairs, just general weekly maintenance that you would perform. I would imagine that the cables would be the utmost part of maintenance problems followed by the hydraulic cylinders. Seeing that the Mohawk has no cables and the cylinders have a lifetime guarantee what’s left to chance? The motor and hydraulic pump.
I cannot imagine why a Rotary lift couldn’t give you 20 years worth of weekend use without having to do any major costly repairs, just general weekly maintenance that you would perform. I would imagine that the cables would be the utmost part of maintenance problems followed by the hydraulic cylinders. Seeing that the Mohawk has no cables and the cylinders have a lifetime guarantee what’s left to chance? The motor and hydraulic pump.
krj
Active member
OldCarGuy, werent you supposed to get a complimentary Rotary lift?? Ive been waiting for the conclusion to that story... did I miss something?? (I dont mean to hijack... just thought it was relevant)
Wow.. never thought I'd find something that everyone here agrees on in that Mohawk is the lift to get. Didn't expect anything like like the snap-on vs craftsman debate but thought that there would be more interest/dissenting views on something like this. Should I infer from the lack of replies from the rotary owners that they would rather have a Mohawk also?
I chose Rotary for a couple of reasons:
- authorized service center very close
- very nice salesman who put up with my stupid questions for years before I bought (even came out to my garage to survey before the install)
- good enough for what I was going to use it for
- I really didn't know too much about Mohawk at the time
- The big reason...within my price range, yet still American made
I wouldn't have been able to afford the Mohawk for the price that was stated above. No doubt it's a better lift, though. I have complete faith in what OCG has to say about them even though I've never really examined one up close or used one.
If someone's interested I can get the micrometer out and measure some thicknesses. I don't believe I have any info on the cylinder pressure though. I will have to look...
- authorized service center very close
- very nice salesman who put up with my stupid questions for years before I bought (even came out to my garage to survey before the install)
- good enough for what I was going to use it for
- I really didn't know too much about Mohawk at the time
- The big reason...within my price range, yet still American made
I wouldn't have been able to afford the Mohawk for the price that was stated above. No doubt it's a better lift, though. I have complete faith in what OCG has to say about them even though I've never really examined one up close or used one.
If someone's interested I can get the micrometer out and measure some thicknesses. I don't believe I have any info on the cylinder pressure though. I will have to look...
Oh, not sure this is a factor for most, but does Mohawk come in different colors?
Rotary blue was a plus for me.
What's the lowest the arms will go? I've got some low cars and the Rotary performs well for me.
Not sure if it comes in different colors, would be kinda neat to get it in Ford Blue to match the compressor
The arm pad height is 3.5". I did a search today for the 646 chain they use, looks like anywhere between 27,000 & 29,000 lb chain depending on which manufacturer so plenty of safety factor built in.Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would get the Mohawk. At my last job we had Mohawk lifts in assorted sizes and they would lift whatever work truck I put on it without any shuddering or leakage. My current job has Rotary lifts and I'm not happy. It struggles to lift a Suburban or Tahoe. Ocassionally the lift won't come down evenly or bind. I've had the service rep come out but, the lifts don't stay fixed. If I was spending my money to buy a lift, it would be a Mohawk.
Were the Rotary & Mohawk lifts the same rated capacity? What was the model that had trouble with the larger vehicles? Was there a problem with the lift or was it just not up to the task? I'm really leaning toward the Mohawk, for the difference I'd be willing to work some overtime to have something that is going to last. Once my girls start driving there will be more vehicles to maintain & I'll be older, crankier, & less willing to put an exhaust on while the car is on car ramps & jack stands
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My current Rotary is a 9000 lb model and it has problems lifting suvs despite the service rep saying it's ok. At my previous job, we had several different sizes of Mohawk lifts. The lifts had three shifts using them 24/7 365 days a year without a down day.
My current Rotary is a 9000 lb model and it has problems lifting suvs despite the service rep saying it's ok. At my previous job, we had several different sizes of Mohawk lifts. The lifts had three shifts using them 24/7 365 days a year without a down day.
Any idea how old the Mohawk lifts were that were used this way? Looks like my putting something up in the air 10x/month won't wear it out very fast
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Any idea how old the Mohawk lifts were that were used this way? Looks like my putting something up in the air 10x/month won't wear it out very fast
I think the oldest was like 15 years old and the 20k lift was brand new.
My current Rotary is a 9000 lb model and it has problems lifting suvs despite the service rep saying it's ok. At my previous job, we had several different sizes of Mohawk lifts. The lifts had three shifts using them 24/7 365 days a year without a down day.
That is strange, I just googled the curb weight of a suburban, heaviest model I found was 6300 lbs which seems like it should be well within the capacity of a 9000 lb lift. Wonder if your current lift is just wore out or needs rebuilt? Did the service rep have any ideas why it was doing that? Any idea how old your current lift is? Looks like it is time to start saving for the Mohawk
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The rotary I have is just over 3 years old. The suburbans have at least 500 lbs of additional gear in them. The day the Rotary service rep showed up was the one time I didn't have a Suburban or Tahoe in the shop. My lift will lift cars and minivans without a problem. It just doesn't like SUVs. I think it needs to be a 10k model. I'm not saying all Rotary lifts ****, just the one I use. I also have access to a larger 12k lift that I use for the Excursions and Expeditions. I just switch bays now when I need to lift an SUV. 
The rotary I have is just over 3 years old. The suburbans have at least 500 lbs of additional gear in them. The day the Rotary service rep showed up was the one time I didn't have a Suburban or Tahoe in the shop. My lift will lift cars and minivans without a problem. It just doesn't like SUVs. I think it needs to be a 10k model. I'm not saying all Rotary lifts ****, just the one I use. I also have access to a larger 12k lift that I use for the Excursions and Expeditions. I just switch bays now when I need to lift an SUV.
Yea, sounds like something is definitely wrong with the lift. That's the first time I've heard anything about a Rotary not working on bigger vehicles or any vehicle for that matter.
BoostAddiction
Well-known member
I bought my Rotary lift in 2004 or so, for some of the same reasons that BMWPower did: made in USA, reasonable price, certified lift, rated as good quality, local install and support, and available in my color choice.
That said, the Mohawk does seem like a higher-end lift.
I'd probably still buy another Rotary as it has always worked well for me, and represents the value point that makes sense for me. OTOH, if I were working under it every day, maybe I'd consider spending more money for the extra value that is there in the Mohawk lifts.
My personal opinion is that the Rotary lifts are a pretty good compromise between safety and long-term ownership costs for hobby users.
Another data point is that I do see them in almost every local Porsche, Audi and VW dealers locally, so they must be pretty good in daily use as well.
-Will
That said, the Mohawk does seem like a higher-end lift.
I'd probably still buy another Rotary as it has always worked well for me, and represents the value point that makes sense for me. OTOH, if I were working under it every day, maybe I'd consider spending more money for the extra value that is there in the Mohawk lifts.
My personal opinion is that the Rotary lifts are a pretty good compromise between safety and long-term ownership costs for hobby users.
Another data point is that I do see them in almost every local Porsche, Audi and VW dealers locally, so they must be pretty good in daily use as well.
-Will
Will, how much maintainance is there to do on one & do you do it yourself or have the service people come in? Did the place you bought it from recommend a time frame that they come out & inspect it after the install to keep it tip top? Always nice to hear from satisfied users
BoostAddiction
Well-known member
Will, how much maintainance is there to do on one & do you do it yourself or have the service people come in? Did the place you bought it from recommend a time frame that they come out & inspect it after the install to keep it tip top? Always nice to hear from satisfied users
Beyond checking for potential problems with cables, ends, hydraulic leaks, etc, I haven't done any real maintenance per se.
The lift has always worked just fine, the hydraulic fluid is still clear, and I've never actually had to call for service.
I guess there is one install-related problem, which occurred only because the electric line to the lift wasn't there when the physical install was done: the lift isn't perfectly balanced, and one side begins to lift just a bit before the other. I assume this is an adjustment problem, but it is so small that I just haven't taken the time to investigate and fix it.
The installers wanted to sign me up for a maintenance agreement, but I declined, thinking (correctly, as it turns out) that it was unlikely to need a lot of care, based upon experiences from other friends that had them, and my expected level of use.
I may yet call them in to have a look at the leveling issue one day.
-Will
What would the maint agreement have cost & what does it cover? I will call the Mohawk people & see if this can happen with their lifts & will run a line so that they can test it before leaving. The installer Mohawk recommended was about 1 1/2hrs away so will want to make sure everything is right before they leave, they probably won't want to get a call the next day for something that could have been taken care of the first time. What is included in an install, just setting the posts?
FYI... adjusting the cables is something you can do yourself. There are adjustments nuts where the cables attach to the "carrier" (not sure what they're called).
The Mohawk has no cables, hence there is no cable adjustments to synchronize the two arm carriages. They have a patented hydraulic system that keeps the carriages in synchronization once all the entrapped air is out of the lines. I installed my lift myself, and the problem I had was getting the air out of the hydraulic lines. Even though they has an automatic bleeder in the system, I had to manually open a line fitting, very similar to bleeding brakes on a car, to remove the air.
Once I removed the air from the lines I have never had any misalignment. However there is a manual bypass valve to make adjustments if it comes out of synchronization. This feature comes in handy if you want to tilt one side of the car higher than he other.
Once I removed the air from the lines I have never had any misalignment. However there is a manual bypass valve to make adjustments if it comes out of synchronization. This feature comes in handy if you want to tilt one side of the car higher than he other.
OldCarGuy, would you recommend getting a service agreement or would it be a waste of money that could be used for other things? Seems like if it is working properly at the install that it should keep working barring someone driving an army tank into it. How detailed is the owners manual for it & does it contain part numbers and a detailed troubleshooting section? How did you get power to yours? Running conduit down from the ceiling along the hydraulic lines seems like the least obstructive way to do it but can't tell from the pictures.
I don’t feel the need to have my lift inspect professionally, and I installed it myself. As common sense covers most of what needs to be inspected on a Mohawk lift along with their detailed inspection procedures. For peace of mind, you may want your lift inspected by a professional once every other year or so.. But since you’re having it installed, any problems would be taken care of by the installer.
I don’t believe that your installer will hard wire your lift. You’re going to have that done by someone else. I ran two # 10 THHN wires plus a ground wire in conduit from a 20 Amp 240 Volt breaker in my load center to a twist lock receptacle mounted in a 4 x 4 work box. Actually # 12 wires would be big enough; but I always over do things. And I put a two foot cord with a twist lock plug out of the motor’s junction box
The two hydraulic lines between the columns are run straight up,, across, and down to the other column in most installations. Though they can be placed beneath the floor in concrete. I ran my up and a angled across the ceiling. Through a light fixture. Then down and straight back to the other column. I did that to increase the travel of my bridge crane toward the garage door. The beauty of not having to deal with cables!
Overall Mohawk supplies good manuals. That goes over the installation, electrical requirements, placement, and concrete requirements. Along with an all inclusive parts manual, proper operation procedures, inspection and maintenance procedures, and a trouble shooting guide. It also has a comprehensive lifting point’s guide that cover nearly 1,000 vehicles, foreign and domestic, from years 1987 to 2006.
It's best to have the electric installed, ready to go, but I was able to get away with a single 120v line. The installers used the 120v line to hookup to the 240v motor for bleeding/testing purposes. It was enough for them to do what they needed to do.
I have a 240v SJO cord with a twist lock, which attaches to an outlet in the ceiling. I installed it after I knew where the lift was going to be located so I didn't have the electric line too far from the lift.
I have a 240v SJO cord with a twist lock, which attaches to an outlet in the ceiling. I installed it after I knew where the lift was going to be located so I didn't have the electric line too far from the lift.
Are the posts interchangeable ie that the post with the power pack can be on either side or does it have to be mounted so that it is on the passenger side as you look at it from the outside of the building? If it is interchangeable it would make it a lot easier as I have a support I could mount a box on on the driver side where if I had to do the passenger side I would have to mount it to the ceiling. I have no problem with the electrical hookup part but I have a 14' ceiling & an 8' ladder so don't want to have to do it that way if possible.
The column with the motor/pump assembly can be placed on either side of the garage. What ever would meet your needs the best. Mine is mounted on the passenger side of the vehicle when driven in through the garage door.
It's been a long time coming but FINALLY placed an order for the Mohawk along with the weight gauge today, it will be delivered and installed next tuesday. Other than getting everything out of the way where it is supposed to go, does anyone have any tips on things I can do to make the install go smoother? Really looking forward to getting this here & working Guy I ordered it from said the next shipment of lifts will be priced 8-10% higher due to increases in steel so for those wanting to get one now is the time, saved me probably 500.00 by not waiting any longer.
Guy I ordered it from said the next shipment of lifts will be priced 8-10% higher due to increases in steel so for those wanting to get one now is the time, saved me probably 500.00 by not waiting any longer.
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In the Mohawk installation instructions for my System I lift, they recommend placing the centerline of the columns 10’ 8” from any workbench, tool box, etc in front of the lift. That will give you about 36” of working space on full size cars. Due to expansion cracks in my concrete floor I have 9‘ 6“. It‘s a tight fit when working in front of my avalanche; but doable. The overall length of my Avalanche is 222“ and a wheelbase of 130”. Same as a Chevrolet Suburban. .
I have 13’ 10” from the garage door to the centerline of the columns. More than adequate amount of space to work behind my Avalanche. It’s best to leave about three feet from the column to any side wall. To keep the bay next to my lift as wide as possible, I placed the column with the pump tank assembly with only a foot of clearance to the wall. Though I may not be able to pass between that column and the wall, I have no problem setti9ng the lift arms and working on my truck.
I have 13’ 10” from the garage door to the centerline of the columns. More than adequate amount of space to work behind my Avalanche. It’s best to leave about three feet from the column to any side wall. To keep the bay next to my lift as wide as possible, I placed the column with the pump tank assembly with only a foot of clearance to the wall. Though I may not be able to pass between that column and the wall, I have no problem setti9ng the lift arms and working on my truck.
I've been doing some lift research using the "search" feature and came upon this older thread.
Honestly, I'm not familiar with the Mohawk brand of lifts. I've worked in 3 different new car dealerships and they've all used Rotary brand without issue.
I see here that the consensus is that Mohawk is a very heavy duty high end lift.
this is interesting info that I wasn't aware of, as again, i haven't had any experience with mohawk.
However what is surprising to me are a couple of comments about rotary lifts not lifting heavy vehicles, or having other issues.
I find this stuff difficult to believe. At my current dealership, I use two old (probably close to 20 years old) 7000lb rotary lifts. I've never had an issue lifting anything, especially just an mid size suv. I had an crew cab f250 hanging in the air all last weekend with my old rotary with no straining or binding or any abnormal operation at all.
We have probably 25 rotary lifts in the main shop and 10 rotary lifts plus a four post in the quick lube area, all of various ages as they were added in stages. I can't recall having a problem with any of them not performing properly.
this is with CONSTANT daily (6 days a week) use. I can't imagine a rotary not being MORE than sufficient for anybody's home use.
I'm ordering one for my garage, Rotary doesn't even appear to offer 7 or 9k lb lifts anymore. almost all of them start at 10,000 lbs. I'll be getting the SPOA10
honestly, you'd be hard pressed to find any vehicle on the road today that weighs more than 7000lbs, so 9000 or 10k should be overkill.
ex. road giants suchs as the Ford excursion diesel weigh just over 7000lbs, a Chevy Suburban is only about 6000lbs.
if your rotary isn't lifting a Tahoe, something is wrong with it or maybe the power going to it?
just my .02
it sounds like you can't go wrong either way.
later,
chris
Honestly, I'm not familiar with the Mohawk brand of lifts. I've worked in 3 different new car dealerships and they've all used Rotary brand without issue.
I see here that the consensus is that Mohawk is a very heavy duty high end lift.
this is interesting info that I wasn't aware of, as again, i haven't had any experience with mohawk.
However what is surprising to me are a couple of comments about rotary lifts not lifting heavy vehicles, or having other issues.
I find this stuff difficult to believe. At my current dealership, I use two old (probably close to 20 years old) 7000lb rotary lifts. I've never had an issue lifting anything, especially just an mid size suv. I had an crew cab f250 hanging in the air all last weekend with my old rotary with no straining or binding or any abnormal operation at all.
We have probably 25 rotary lifts in the main shop and 10 rotary lifts plus a four post in the quick lube area, all of various ages as they were added in stages. I can't recall having a problem with any of them not performing properly.
this is with CONSTANT daily (6 days a week) use. I can't imagine a rotary not being MORE than sufficient for anybody's home use.
I'm ordering one for my garage, Rotary doesn't even appear to offer 7 or 9k lb lifts anymore. almost all of them start at 10,000 lbs. I'll be getting the SPOA10
honestly, you'd be hard pressed to find any vehicle on the road today that weighs more than 7000lbs, so 9000 or 10k should be overkill.
ex. road giants suchs as the Ford excursion diesel weigh just over 7000lbs, a Chevy Suburban is only about 6000lbs.
if your rotary isn't lifting a Tahoe, something is wrong with it or maybe the power going to it?
just my .02
it sounds like you can't go wrong either way.
later,
chris
SteveU, it looks like it has been a few months since you ordered your lift. I would like your thoughts on your purchase. I am debating the same decision you did. Are you happy with your decision?
I talked to my local Mohawk dealer the other day and he really talked about how unstable non-Mohawk lifts can be when lifting heavy vehicles.
I talked to my local Mohawk dealer the other day and he really talked about how unstable non-Mohawk lifts can be when lifting heavy vehicles.
I'm extremely happy with it, have lifted everything from my kid's wagon to Dixon ztr mower to buddy's 1 ton Dually pickup without a hitch. I don't have any experience with a non-mohawk lift for comparison but this thing is very solid, never had any reservations to get under anything on it. Have not noticed any rocking with a vehicle on it. Had to replace both front calipers on my car & was working on it at jackstand level but was having trouble with one bolt so raised it overhead where it was easier to see what I was doing. Right after getting it had a bunch of things to fix on different vehicles that would have been inconvienent to do without it such as replacing the exhaust gasket behind the converter, the rubber hose from the filler neck to the gas tank, replacing exhaust bolts that were rusty & would have probably broke sometime during a snowstorm this winter. Bit of sticker shock on things like lift drains, paid 198 for a 16 gal John Dow metal drain where I have been using a plastic one for 20 yrs that cost around 5.00 but as long as I don't set a car down on it this should last long enough my kids will use it. Exhaust work is childs play now where doing it on ramps & jackstands was not. Hopefully your dealer has some old stock lifts that the price hasn't went up on as I hear they went up over 500.00 since I bought mine. I'm glad I went with the Mohawk, I do woodworking in the same area as the lift so something I had to grease would attract sawdust where the Mohawk doesn't have that requirement or vulnerability. If you can swing the Mohawk I would highly recommend it, I'd also recommend letting them install it, IMO best 300.00 you can spend, learned a lot from the guy who did mine who has been installing them for 27 yrs.
Cebby
Well-known member
Where's the pics?
Good point on the woodworking aspect. I also do woodworking and never thought of the sawdust issue until reading your post. Thanks!
Good point on the woodworking aspect. I also do woodworking and never thought of the sawdust issue until reading your post. Thanks!