Vise Resto Two-Fer -- Wilton and Chas Parker

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

I have started my first two vise restorations simultaneously. Yes, I lack common sense...

Here are the before pics:

Chas Parker 434 1/2

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Here's the Wilton. It's frozen, so it has a lot of work awaiting it. I still don't know exactly what model it is, but I'm sure one of the vise-ologists will let me know. There's more detail in a later pic.

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So I decided to try my hand at electrolysis. Here's my setup working hard.

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I put the Wilton in first as I wanted to get it to a point where my PB Blaster could get to work. Here's how it came out of the bath after 40 hours at about 2 amps.

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Here's the Chas Parker disassembled, awaiting its turn in the tank.

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Right now I have some of the Chas Parker parts in the tank and the swivel base of the Wilton is still in there, as some of the paint had not come off yet.

Enjoy!

SweetD · Sep 9, 2012

Great start! Now that you have used the electrolysis process, you will never go back!

:beer:

Dave

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

SweetD said:
Great start! Now that you have used the electrolysis process, you will never go back!

Dave

Indeed. There were at least 4 layers of paint on that Wilton. The original paint, bright orange, black, then red. A lot to collect and properly dispose of.

KenS · Sep 9, 2012

Did the electrolysis help free up the Wilton?

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

KenS said:
Did the electrolysis help free up the Wilton?

Unfortunately no. It is sitting on end w/PB Blaster working away. I'll eventually get it freed up!

csargents1546 · Sep 9, 2012

Nice electorysis setup. To free up the Wilton, give Kroil a shot, I swear by the stuff.

SweetD · Sep 9, 2012

csargents1546 said:
Nice electorysis setup. To free up the Wilton, give Kroil a shot, I swear by the stuff.

Kroil is great stuff. Best out there I think. Careful if you try to heat that vise up...hate to see it crack.

Dave

chris fresh · Sep 9, 2012

the wilton came out sweet,once you get it open,will you run it again through the bath to hit the parts that weren't exposed the first time?

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

chris fresh said:
the wilton came out sweet,once you get it open,will you run it again through the bath to hit the parts that weren't exposed the first time?

IF they are rusty, yes. If not, I will lightly buff with scotchbrite pads or steel wool to make sure everything is nice and smooth.

To those who suggested Kroil: I have a can of that and I will use it if the PB Blaster doesn't work. In my limited experience, PB works better. Kroil is good stuff, no doubt, but for whatever reason here in Las Vegas I've had better luck with PB.

spongerich · Sep 9, 2012

I had a big Morgan that was rusted stuck (looked a lot worse than your Wilton) I was able to free it with multiple applications of PB with frequent tapping to loosen the rust and vibrate the PB into the gaps. If I recall, it ended up taking the better part of a week before it broke loose.

You might want to remove the collar and remove the screw. That'll let you get some blaster inside too. That'll also allow you to try to pop off the rear cover. Then you can get a piece of rod in through the back and gently tap the slide forward.

If you still have no luck, you could dunk the whole thing in a bucket of kerosene and ATF... I usually reserve that sort of treatment as a last resort because of disposal issues.

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

spongerich said:
I had a big Morgan that was rusted stuck (looked a lot worse than your Wilton) I was able to free it with multiple applications of PB with frequent tapping to loosen the rust and vibrate the PB into the gaps. If I recall, it ended up taking the better part of a week before it broke loose.

You might want to remove the collar and remove the screw. That'll let you get some blaster inside too. That'll also allow you to try to pop off the rear cover. Then you can get a piece of rod in through the back and gently tap the slide forward.

If you still have no luck, you could dunk the whole thing in a bucket of kerosene and ATF... I usually reserve that sort of treatment as a last resort because of disposal issues.

I have everything out of the vise including the end cap, collar, and screw. I have the vise in a vertical orientation with the tail up, so the PB is soaking down the space between the dynamic and static jaw parts. I have a brick chisel wedged in between the jaws providing separation force so hopefully it'll pop free (or at least move) sometime this week.

Yeah, the kerosene/ATF soak sounds like no fun. It'd take a whole lot of liquid to do that. This is a pretty big (and heavy) vise.

I think I have figured out the vise is a C1, given the dimensions (4.5" jaws, 4.75" throat, 8.75" swivel base diameter - center to center of mounting holes). Anyone have a different theory?

chris fresh · Sep 9, 2012

let soak and see what you've got

gilbo · Sep 9, 2012

admranger

i would put the wilton back in the electrolysis solution , but make sure u run a new batch electrolyte, i would bet u will see little bubble still, which mean u didnt run long enough in the solution.

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

gilbo said:
admranger

i would put the wilton back in the electrolysis solution , but make sure u run a new batch electrolyte, i would bet u will see little bubble still, which mean u didnt run long enough in the solution.

Ok. I have parts of the Chas Parker in there now. Once those are cleaned up I'll re-do the Wilton with fresh solution and clean anodes (if it hasn't freed up yet).

gilbo · Sep 9, 2012

admranger said:
Ok. I have parts of the Chas Parker in there now. Once those are cleaned up I'll re-do the Wilton with fresh solution and clean anodes (if it hasn't freed up yet).

also don't forget electrolysis, works by line of sight, so when i did mine i had more that 2 anode in the bucket, i blieve i had 5 anode

admranger · Sep 9, 2012

gilbo said:
also don't forget electrolysis, works by line of sight, so when i did mine i had more that 2 anode in the bucket, i blieve i had 5 anode

I have two electrodes, so I rotated the vise in the tank several times to compensate. I could tell by where the paint was still left on the vise which side needed to be line of site with the anodes.

spongerich · Sep 9, 2012

You can also slip an anode inside the body of the vise. Wrap it in a piece of nylon window screen to keep it from shorting out.

admranger · Sep 10, 2012

spongerich said:
You can also slip an anode inside the body of the vise. Wrap it in a piece of nylon window screen to keep it from shorting out.

Interesting idea! I probably have some screen around that I can use.

Do you find low current for a longer time is better than a higher current for a shorter time?

I am currently using 2A of current, but my charger will show 6A when it is set to the 12A setting. The charger seems pretty hot though, and Vegas temps aren't conducive for good convective cooling...

Catalyze · Sep 10, 2012

Hey Admranger!
Very nice work. I love throwing a toaster in a bathtub with a vise in it.....wait...that's the "bad way". LOL Electro bath is a great way to clean up old iron without destroying detail. I usually use 3 pieces of hefty rebar and just wire the tops together with monster speaker wire from my "van with mural" days. I don't like to use more amps than I can put my hand on the wire going to the vise part (negative). If that wire is too hot to hold in my hand, then I turn the amps down or drop to 6 volts. I have had that wire hot enough to melt through a plastic bucket. Luckily it was above the liquid line. I never let a wire get that hot again.....and it can also get your solution fairly warm too if you start going over 10 amps. Your mileage and giggle factor may vary....
Craig

gilbo · Sep 10, 2012

admranger said:
Interesting idea! I probably have some screen around that I can use.

Do you find low current for a longer time is better than a higher current for a shorter time?

I am currently using 2A of current, but my charger will show 6A when it is set to the 12A setting. The charger seems pretty hot though, and Vegas temps aren't conducive for good convective cooling...

i prefer slow and low

admranger · Sep 11, 2012

Ok, 2A it is.

Still cleaning up the Chas Parker. Need a couple of more days in the tank and I'm losing days now due to threat of rain (can't leave my charger out in the weather at night afterall!).

Wilton is still soaking with repeated sprays of PB Blaster. No movement so far, though I didn't expect any this soon. If it isn't freed up by the time I get the Chas Parker cleaned up the Wilton is going into the tank w/clean solution and hopefully the rod down the center of the vise.

admranger · Sep 15, 2012

Here's the Charles Parker 434 1/2 fresh out of the electrolysis tank. Took longer than I had planned, but I finally got the paint off of it.

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The Wilton is back in the tank with an electrode down the center of the vise. Running at 2A current. I'll let it go until the electrode corrodes and amperage drops off significantly. Once I get it out of the tank I think I'm just going to put on some paste wax instead of painting it.

BTW: how do the pipe jaws come out? There's no pins or anything.

Bought some primer and paint for the Chas Parker. I may give it a clean up and paint tomorrow.

Where can I get replacement pins for the pipe jaws? One is going to end up too short once I get it off...

EOC_Jason · Sep 15, 2012

admranger said:
BTW: how do the pipe jaws come out? There's no pins or anything.

Where can I get replacement pins for the pipe jaws? One is going to end up too short once I get it off...

I'm assuming your first question is for the Wilton? I think they are held in their with clips and simply pull out. Autopts should be able to give you a definitive answer. I'm pretty sure you can google your wilton model number and get an exploded diagram. EDIT - found a pic (from autopts on another thread)... Check the attached pic. If your Wilton has the two pins on each side going through, then obviously you punch those out. If they don't, then it's the clip style. Probably best to put some oil in there so you don't break or have to fight it.

As for the second question, I'm assuming you mean the Parker? If so, any soft steel bar material should work. I'm sure you can find some at you local hardware store and cut it to fit. Or you could use roll pins if you can find them in the right length.

admranger · Sep 15, 2012

EOC_Jason said:
I'm assuming your first question is for the Wilton? I think they are held in their with clips and simply pull out. Autopts should be able to give you a definitive answer. I'm pretty sure you can google your wilton model number and get an exploded diagram. EDIT - found a pic (from autopts on another thread)... Check the attached pic. If your Wilton has the two pins on each side going through, then obviously you punch those out. If they don't, then it's the clip style. Probably best to put some oil in there so you don't break or have to fight it.

As for the second question, I'm assuming you mean the Parker? If so, any soft steel bar material should work. I'm sure you can find some at you local hardware store and cut it to fit. Or you could use roll pins if you can find them in the right length.

Your assumptions were correct!

Thanks!

The Wilton ones must be like the ones without pins. Funny thing is I can't find a model number on the vise anywhere. It appears to be a C-2, but I'm not 100% sure.

I'll get the Chas Parker pins out so I can have a clean area to paint.

Thanks again.

1steve · Sep 15, 2012

The Wilton ones must be like the ones without pins. Funny thing is I can't find a model number on the vise anywhere. It appears to be a C-2, but I'm not 100% sure.

The Wilton combo vises C-0=3.5 jaws
C-1= 4.5
C-2=5
C-3=6
Hope this helps.

admranger · Sep 16, 2012

1steve said:
The Wilton ones must be like the ones without pins. Funny thing is I can't find a model number on the vise anywhere. It appears to be a C-2, but I'm not 100% sure.

The Wilton combo vises C-0=3.5 jaws
C-1= 4.5
C-2=5
C-3=6
Hope this helps.

Then I have a C-1 as the jaws are 4.5 inches. Thank you.

Update on the Charles Parker: I primed and painted it this afternoon. The paint is drying as I type this. I'll get pictures up as soon as I am able to.

The Wilton is still in the electrolysis tank, chugging along, though the amperage has dropped to less than 2A now. I guess the electrode is getting fouled a bit.

admranger · Sep 19, 2012

Update!

The Wilton came out of the electrolysis tank (round 2) and I was able to get it apart! Sweet! I took the jaws off and will put it back in the tank (fresh solution) to clean up the inside more. Lots of corrosion still in the static jaw portion.

In order to separate the dynamic jaw from the static jaw I used a brick chisel and then used other chisels as wedges to slowly get it apart. I used various metal scrap I had as a base for the chisels to continue slowly wedging it apart. Eventually I clamped the base to my bench and used the dead blow hammer to open it up fully.

Thanks for everyone's help on this! I'll update the thread this weekend with some pics. Hopefully I'll be able to paint it this weekend too!

J HAV · Sep 19, 2012

Good Job

admranger · Oct 6, 2012

Finally got my two vises together. Before/after pics for you (I do have the clamp downs for the Wilton, but I ordered the wrong size/thread pitch so I have to drill/tap them).

First the Charles Parker 434 1/2

Before:

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After:

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Wilton C1 which was frozen solid.

Before:

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After:

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Together:

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gilbo · Oct 6, 2012

admranger said:
Finally got my two vises together. Before/after pics for you (I do have the clamp downs for the Wilton, but I ordered the wrong size/thread pitch so I have to drill/tap them).

First the Charles Parker 434 1/2

Before:

After:

Wilton C1 which was frozen solid.

Before:

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After:

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Together:

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i luv the wilton, came out great, ru keeping the naked look, on it, i just sprayed several coats of clear on mine

admranger · Oct 6, 2012

Thanks. It was a lot of work. A lot.

Wilton actually has black metallic rustoleum (from the funky spray can). Looks great.

Now I just need to figure out where to put the vises.

I'm thinking the Wilton will go on the front left hand side of the workbench.

I have another, rolling work table that I'll mount the Chas Parker on, replacing my cheapy chinese Craftsman vise that's on it now.

Jon Jacobs · Apr 25, 2014

I found an old Parker I found in the basement of the house we recently bought. I fell in love with restoration process. I posted on GJ.

1982fxr · Apr 26, 2014

question on the wilton: did it come out of the bath that clean, or did you spend some time wire brushing (or something) the black 'oxide' residue off?

CoopVA · Apr 26, 2014

Great job! I'm going to have to set up to do some electrolysis. I really like your set up.

admranger · Apr 27, 2014

1982fxr said:
question on the wilton: did it come out of the bath that clean, or did you spend some time wire brushing (or something) the black 'oxide' residue off?

I did a little wire brushing, but nothing much. A little scotch brite pad all over too. Then brake cleaner prior to priming and painting.

Vise Resto Two-Fer -- Wilton and Chas Parker

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