.
I'm learning how to weld with a 225A AC Lincoln and took a lot of notes -- thought I should share.
This information is not my opinion and comes straight from the videos.
*Contradicting info between the videos will be marked with asterisks.
ARC WELDING NOTES FROM THESE FILMS
Video 1
Video 2
two min video i found interesting
Notes flow with the first Video. I have some additional notes to add once I re-watch the 2nd video.
Welding filter lenses
#8 lightest - #14 darkest
lens #10 is recommended, most choose #9
use clear lenses on front and back of filter lens to protect it, keep them clean.
Lead Sizes
size/lgth.....50'.....100'.....250'
1/0.............300A.....300A.....200A
1.................250A.....200A.....175A
2.................200A.....195A.....150A
4.................125A.....100A
Fast Freeze Rods - Deep Penetration
E6010 DCminus* -- freezes a little quicker
E6011 AC/DC+ -- may be a little easier to use because of more stabilizers in the flux
Both offer:
Strong Arc force can blow-off rust and paint.
Good choice for repairs or modifications where you cannot completely clean the surface.
Often choice for first pass, then 2nd pass could be a 6013 or 7018.
Filler Rods - Less Penetration
E6013 AC/DC+ general purpose rod, light fabrication, probably the easiest to use of all rods, smooth finished weld bead
E7018 DC+ Low Hydrogen, Iron Powder in the flux, highest quality weld where extreme stress exists on the weld
E7018 AC harder low alloy steels, cast steels, resists cracking in cold/hot shrink/expand conditions, iron powder = more metal down faster, smooth finish weld bead clean metal and well prepared joints.
E7024 AC/DC+ flat surfaces only, clean metal, slightly higher amperage setting.
Rod Codes EXXYZ
..E = Electrode, arc wedling
** = Tensile Strength (pull apart) 60k lbs/sq in or 70k lbs/sq
..Y = 1 (overhead, vertical, any position) or 2 (very fluid, flat surface only)
YZ = Composition of flux coating
Other Rods
E6012 DC(minus) Sheet Metal
E6022 Decking
E7010 High Grade Pipe
E8010 High Grade Pipe
E8080 High Grade Steel
E11018 Tempered Steel
Typical Technique
Each rod lasts about 1 minute. Make sure you are comfortable and relaxed.
DO NOT rest your arms on the table*, keep both hands on the stinger for steadiness, nod down the mask.
Scratch where you intend to weld. Scratching the rod like a match, when it lights raise up 3mm and be in stating position.
Once Rod is lit, start making the puddle, about 2 or 3 little circles
Keep tip about 1/8" or 3mm off the surface
Do not focus on the light, focus on the molten metal behind the rod, the upper and sides of the puddle shape and spatter.
Master your 3mm Arc Gap as the rod is consumed.
Rod perpendicular to the surface = less weld build-up, deeper penetration and makes a flatter weld bead.
Rod Angle at 45° allowing the weld to build-up
Aim for about 70° angle and adjust as required.
E6010 / E6011
3/32
1/8 - 6010 -- common size used between 75-130A depending on metal thicknes, position of weld, welder's ability
5/32
advertised amperage & metal thickness are maximum weld in min time (guideline)
smaller rod for better control, but takes more time to build-up weld bead.
Amperage set too low = base metal doesn't get hot enough, puddle looks like it's following the rod around, hard to start arc and keep steady or weld bead could be small and lumpy.
Amperage set too high = base metal too hot, puddle pushes back too far or weld bead is flat and spattery.
Long Arc = increased spatter, the arc may go out, makes faulty welds.
Thick metal = more amperage because the heat disipates
Thinner metal = less amperage
How do you know? -- know what your molten puddle should look like while welding.
Each rod has different Amperage recommendations.
Choose the middle of the manufacturer's range and adjust up or down a little bit.
Stike where you intend to weld, move to start position, circle 2 or 3 times to start the puddle, travel. (for a cleaner start, weld on a piece of scrap metal for a few seconds to warm-up the electrode)
Travel too fast = no penetration, weld sits on top of base metal.
Travel too slow = puddle is flat & hard to control
Experienced Welders can increase the amperage which allows increasing the speed of travel
Weld as hot as you can control the molten puddle
Finish the bead, circle once or twice for a nice end on the bead, up and back over the weld
E6010 in flat position, circular motion, angle rod to build-up weld
Motions
Circular or Zig-Zag = most common, watch the puddle pushback shape and that edges fill-in.
Whip motion = deepest penetration, digs down on back stroke then it fills the gouge back in.
Step motion = Puddle/Long Arc (for cooling) for Thinner metals which need less penetration. The thinner the metal, the faster the Puddle/Long Arc. Not the most beautiful bead and is usually passed again with another motion.
Vertical Path
Down hill = easiest to do, but less penetration and less build-up. Use Higher amperage setting since you are pulling away from the heat. Angle the rod UPWARDS so the force of the arc helps hold the puddle up. If puddle want to drip, try more ampreage or move faster.
Up hill= more penetration and more build-up, Use lower amperage, angle rod UPWARDS so you don't blow away your puddle.
Horizontal Path (across)
Angle rod to push the puddle up, Keep rod perpenticular to metal or angle towards the bead a little bit.
Circluar motion, if the puddle wants to drip then travel faster.
Overhead
Almost the same as a Flat surface. (lol)
Molten metal will not drip out unless you blow it out with the arc force.
Rod should be perpendicular to metal, or aimed in the direction of travel away from the weld.
E6013 1/8 - most common size and usually the most favorite results - good looking finished weld bead
3/32 AC 90A and DC+ 80A
1/8 AC 130A and DC+ 115A
5/32 AC 180A and DC+ 160A
Vertical Path = Down hill is recommended, side to side ...Up hill = lower amperage 5-10A
Horizontal Path = Perpendicular to metal or slightly into bead. Bead will have a slight sag. Keep the bead small and maybe do a 2nd pass, instead of laying-down too much metal.
Overhead = Rod straight up, or slightly into bead, circular motion
E7018 extremely high quality good looking weld bead
Heavier fab and repair weld joint stress
More sensitive to arc gap and rod movement
Get comfortable to be steady as possible
Porosity can happen, especially on rusty, painted, contaminated (grease) metal
clean metal, side to side, constant, do not lose the arc -- DON'T LET THE SLAG COOL by losing the arc.
3/32 AC DC+ 100A
1/8 AC DC+ 135A
5/32 AC DC+ 165A
Vertical = Up only
Overhead = can carry a lot of metal, but SLAG CAN DRIP, consider a leather welding jacket.
All Rods
If sides are not tied-in, you're traveling too fast, tipping the rod towards the puddle, or too low of amperage
Too slow overheats the base metal.
Long Arc = inconsistant weld bead & excessive spatter
.
I'm learning how to weld with a 225A AC Lincoln and took a lot of notes -- thought I should share.
This information is not my opinion and comes straight from the videos.
*Contradicting info between the videos will be marked with asterisks.
ARC WELDING NOTES FROM THESE FILMS
Video 1
Video 2
two min video i found interesting
Notes flow with the first Video. I have some additional notes to add once I re-watch the 2nd video.
Welding filter lenses
#8 lightest - #14 darkest
lens #10 is recommended, most choose #9
use clear lenses on front and back of filter lens to protect it, keep them clean.
Lead Sizes
size/lgth.....50'.....100'.....250'
1/0.............300A.....300A.....200A
1.................250A.....200A.....175A
2.................200A.....195A.....150A
4.................125A.....100A
Fast Freeze Rods - Deep Penetration
E6010 DCminus* -- freezes a little quicker
E6011 AC/DC+ -- may be a little easier to use because of more stabilizers in the flux
Both offer:
Strong Arc force can blow-off rust and paint.
Good choice for repairs or modifications where you cannot completely clean the surface.
Often choice for first pass, then 2nd pass could be a 6013 or 7018.
Filler Rods - Less Penetration
E6013 AC/DC+ general purpose rod, light fabrication, probably the easiest to use of all rods, smooth finished weld bead
E7018 DC+ Low Hydrogen, Iron Powder in the flux, highest quality weld where extreme stress exists on the weld
E7018 AC harder low alloy steels, cast steels, resists cracking in cold/hot shrink/expand conditions, iron powder = more metal down faster, smooth finish weld bead clean metal and well prepared joints.
E7024 AC/DC+ flat surfaces only, clean metal, slightly higher amperage setting.
Rod Codes EXXYZ
..E = Electrode, arc wedling
** = Tensile Strength (pull apart) 60k lbs/sq in or 70k lbs/sq
..Y = 1 (overhead, vertical, any position) or 2 (very fluid, flat surface only)
YZ = Composition of flux coating
Other Rods
E6012 DC(minus) Sheet Metal
E6022 Decking
E7010 High Grade Pipe
E8010 High Grade Pipe
E8080 High Grade Steel
E11018 Tempered Steel
Typical Technique
Each rod lasts about 1 minute. Make sure you are comfortable and relaxed.
DO NOT rest your arms on the table*, keep both hands on the stinger for steadiness, nod down the mask.
Scratch where you intend to weld. Scratching the rod like a match, when it lights raise up 3mm and be in stating position.
Once Rod is lit, start making the puddle, about 2 or 3 little circles
Keep tip about 1/8" or 3mm off the surface
Do not focus on the light, focus on the molten metal behind the rod, the upper and sides of the puddle shape and spatter.
Master your 3mm Arc Gap as the rod is consumed.
Rod perpendicular to the surface = less weld build-up, deeper penetration and makes a flatter weld bead.
Rod Angle at 45° allowing the weld to build-up
Aim for about 70° angle and adjust as required.
E6010 / E6011
3/32
1/8 - 6010 -- common size used between 75-130A depending on metal thicknes, position of weld, welder's ability
5/32
advertised amperage & metal thickness are maximum weld in min time (guideline)
smaller rod for better control, but takes more time to build-up weld bead.
Amperage set too low = base metal doesn't get hot enough, puddle looks like it's following the rod around, hard to start arc and keep steady or weld bead could be small and lumpy.
Amperage set too high = base metal too hot, puddle pushes back too far or weld bead is flat and spattery.
Long Arc = increased spatter, the arc may go out, makes faulty welds.
Thick metal = more amperage because the heat disipates
Thinner metal = less amperage
How do you know? -- know what your molten puddle should look like while welding.
Each rod has different Amperage recommendations.
Choose the middle of the manufacturer's range and adjust up or down a little bit.
Stike where you intend to weld, move to start position, circle 2 or 3 times to start the puddle, travel. (for a cleaner start, weld on a piece of scrap metal for a few seconds to warm-up the electrode)
Travel too fast = no penetration, weld sits on top of base metal.
Travel too slow = puddle is flat & hard to control
Experienced Welders can increase the amperage which allows increasing the speed of travel
Weld as hot as you can control the molten puddle
Finish the bead, circle once or twice for a nice end on the bead, up and back over the weld
E6010 in flat position, circular motion, angle rod to build-up weld
Motions
Circular or Zig-Zag = most common, watch the puddle pushback shape and that edges fill-in.
Whip motion = deepest penetration, digs down on back stroke then it fills the gouge back in.
Step motion = Puddle/Long Arc (for cooling) for Thinner metals which need less penetration. The thinner the metal, the faster the Puddle/Long Arc. Not the most beautiful bead and is usually passed again with another motion.
Vertical Path
Down hill = easiest to do, but less penetration and less build-up. Use Higher amperage setting since you are pulling away from the heat. Angle the rod UPWARDS so the force of the arc helps hold the puddle up. If puddle want to drip, try more ampreage or move faster.
Up hill= more penetration and more build-up, Use lower amperage, angle rod UPWARDS so you don't blow away your puddle.
Horizontal Path (across)
Angle rod to push the puddle up, Keep rod perpenticular to metal or angle towards the bead a little bit.
Circluar motion, if the puddle wants to drip then travel faster.
Overhead
Almost the same as a Flat surface. (lol)
Molten metal will not drip out unless you blow it out with the arc force.
Rod should be perpendicular to metal, or aimed in the direction of travel away from the weld.
E6013 1/8 - most common size and usually the most favorite results - good looking finished weld bead
3/32 AC 90A and DC+ 80A
1/8 AC 130A and DC+ 115A
5/32 AC 180A and DC+ 160A
Vertical Path = Down hill is recommended, side to side ...Up hill = lower amperage 5-10A
Horizontal Path = Perpendicular to metal or slightly into bead. Bead will have a slight sag. Keep the bead small and maybe do a 2nd pass, instead of laying-down too much metal.
Overhead = Rod straight up, or slightly into bead, circular motion
E7018 extremely high quality good looking weld bead
Heavier fab and repair weld joint stress
More sensitive to arc gap and rod movement
Get comfortable to be steady as possible
Porosity can happen, especially on rusty, painted, contaminated (grease) metal
clean metal, side to side, constant, do not lose the arc -- DON'T LET THE SLAG COOL by losing the arc.
3/32 AC DC+ 100A
1/8 AC DC+ 135A
5/32 AC DC+ 165A
Vertical = Up only
Overhead = can carry a lot of metal, but SLAG CAN DRIP, consider a leather welding jacket.
All Rods
If sides are not tied-in, you're traveling too fast, tipping the rod towards the puddle, or too low of amperage
Too slow overheats the base metal.
Long Arc = inconsistant weld bead & excessive spatter
.
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