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Bullnerds 30 x40 pole building in NJ.

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
Update: Link to Google photos of my shop since all the pics are missing.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BgDdXLNXZSMc2tUh6

Finally had a pole building put up after 18 yrs in my house and small decaying two car "shop".

The building was done by Pioneer Pole Buildings out of PA.

Its 30 by 40 by 10.Took three guys about two days to finish the whole building.

Very happy so far,Pioneer was very easy to work with and did everything they said they would on time.

Wasnt easy to find a concrete contractor to do the floor.Not thrilled with the one I finally picked but it'll have to do now I guess.

Still a lot to do and I'll be asking a lot of questions in the very near future.

I've been searching like crazy on here so I'll try not to ask the same old questions but cant make any promises.

Love the site!

OK...some picks of the new...and the old if I can find them.

DSCF2275.jpg

DSCF2274.jpg

DSCF2271.jpg

DSCF2270.jpg

doors.jpg

Proposed layout,Auto-machine-fab-wood shop....HA!
shoptoo.jpg

graded.jpg

donesecondday.jpg


OLD but still in use!
 

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amgfurst

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Sweet you have a T-type. I have a 87 T, I just did what you did and rebuilt a new engine.

What is wrong with the concrete? Looks good from my angle.:dunno:
 
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bullnerd

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The Briggs looks neglected.........
Actually it gets a lot of attention....I have to keep moving it to where the roof isnt leaking!

Sweet you have a T-type. I have a 87 T, I just did what you did and rebuilt a new engine.
What is wrong with the concrete? Looks good from my angle.:dunno:

I've had camaros and novas...this is my favorite.Blast to drive.

Yeah its not that bad.I'm just picky.They did some wierd **** by the o-doors.I'll post some pics.Also they made it a little too high,not 10' to the ceiling anymore,so installing the metal interior may be a hassle.

Nice building.
Where in NJ ?
CreamRidge...kinda sorta near sixflags.
 
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bullnerd

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Heres a few pics of what I was talking about by the doors.
Instead of making the concrete flush with the bottom of the doors,they raised it up a little bit and made these steps just inside the door.Pioneer even puts blocks where they recommend the floor height level.I talked to the contractor and he seemed to understand what I was talking about,I left for a bit and came back when they were close to being done and this is what I found.I'm going to fill in the ends with something and leave the center alone.I think.

Any suggestions would be cool.

DSCF2314.jpg

DSCF2313.jpg
 

cj7365

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New Mexico
Wow what are you going to do with all the room now.

Both my garage doors are the same way, here I dont have to worry about water, but it does keep the sand out.
 

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jbaccell

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I'm from NJ, do you know how much it will raise your property taxes? Yes, in NJ that is always a concern. Already paying 12 grand on a little more than a half acre of property in Central, NJ....Ugh
 
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bullnerd

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This is done to keep water from running in but I feel you can end up with a door froze to floor a lot easier.
I might try those rubber deals that go under the door.

Wow what are you going to do with all the room now.

Both my garage doors are the same way, here I dont have to worry about water, but it does keep the sand out.
Well I have a bunch of woodworking stuff in my basement that will be going into this shop.So there isnt as much room as it looks.Yours looks a little tighter to the door than mine?My biggest problem is any water that does come in is now able to reach the wood framing for the door.Thats not good.I will have to block it off somehow.

I'm from NJ, do you know how much it will raise your property taxes? Yes, in NJ that is always a concern. Already paying 12 grand on a little more than a half acre of property in Central, NJ....Ugh
No I dont know.I have three acres and pay around 4K.I'm in Ocean county,big county-few people.
 
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bullnerd

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FINALLY got to work on the shop this weekend. I've been slowly collecting supplies to finish the interior. I had to remove some small braces so I could install the insulation. Had to add some nailers on the 30' ends for the insulation and cieling panels. Took some pics of how I hung the sheets. Once the cleats where screwed on they went up pretty easily especially for working alone.The sheets are not a perfect fit,a little narrow. I dont know why pioneer doesnt space the poles to fit the insulation, would be easier for everyone. I will cut strips to fit the gaps when all the big pieces are done. Also found out some of the trim (F and J) that I bought back in march and never unwrapped is the wrong stuff! **** I hate that. Oh well feels good to work on it. Now that the weather is cooling off should be able to stay on it for a while.

















This workbench with wheels worked great for installing the sheets by myself.

 
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98XJ

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southern indiana
likein what your doin, subscribed, I've got an older 30x40 barn im very interested in what you do with yours..:beer:
 
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bullnerd

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There is no plastic yet,those rolls are unfaced and yes it will be on the inside. Thats coming up soon.

I bought the rolls from my local Morton building contractor, thats the only place that I could find that had it.
 

bry@n

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Ocean County, NJ
Actually it gets a lot of attention....I have to keep moving it to where the roof isnt leaking!



I've had camaros and novas...this is my favorite.Blast to drive.

Yeah its not that bad.I'm just picky.They did some wierd **** by the o-doors.I'll post some pics.Also they made it a little too high,not 10' to the ceiling anymore,so installing the metal interior may be a hassle.


CreamRidge...kinda sorta near sixflags.

Congrats on the building. Looks sweet. I'm right next door to you in New Egypt. How was the permit process? I built my own deck and found dealing with the town to be easy and painless.

I'd like to check it out if you"re okay with it. I am looking to put something up on my 1 acre lot but can't decide what to build.
 

Thedoc14

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Looks good Bull, If your work on the Brigg's is anything to go by on the finish you apply to your workshop I cant wait to see the finished product..
 
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bullnerd

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No way Brian,I'm a loner and want to keep it that way!

Thanks Doc. Dont recognize the screen name but I'm guessing your a member of MBN?
 
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bullnerd

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I looked on the Morton buildings website and found the nearest builder.

I called and talked to them and had to wait until they had extra rolls in the shop. I'm basically doing it the way Morton does.

Watch the video on mortons site, pretty good explanation.
 
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bullnerd

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I'll have to look. Around $150 a roll I think. Each roll is 8' x 40' .

It may be different depending on where you live. The Morton guy gave me a real good price.
 
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bullnerd

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Sorry Coyote ,havnt found the price yet,I seem to have misplaced the folder with some reciepts in it.
Slowly plugging away.
Gaps filled and started on the inside purlins.



 

Coyote556

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Make sure to put your blocking in for the attic insulation before you hang your ceiling otherwise you will have soffits full of blown insulation
 

Wangstang

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Triangle Area, NC, USA
Did you consider running Tyvek or a similar material along the interior side the purlins that are see in this photo:
DSCF2275.jpg

I ask because I'm considering doing the same type of insulation install in my shop but I'm thinking about nailing a Tyvek type material in a similar fashion as you have that plastic taped up but fitting it tighter and putting overlaps in the material that keeps any water from working it's way into the insulation side of the tyvek.

Here's what I was considering:
2s0bif9.jpg


Having seen your work so far, I'm thinking about adding the interior purlins instead of studs between my posts.

Some people here recomended looking into using metal panels for the interior walls instead of dry wall, which I may consider depending on price. What are your plans?

Wes
 
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bullnerd

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Hi Wes, Sorry I just saw your post. If you scroll up you can see I have the horizontal purlins up already. Next they will get covered by a poly vapor barrier and then metal interior panels. I've read that drywall may be sketchy due to the pole buildings being flexy. I am going with metal on the ceiling and walls.
 

cj7jeep81

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S.E. Indiana
Really looking nice. I have never seen a pole barn insulated that way, but sure seems a lot easier than building out a stud wall to hold normal insualtion in place, and probably better since you don't have all the gaps in insulation for the lumber.
 
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bullnerd

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Yup all surface mounted. I want as little "stuff" penetrating the walls as possible!
 

DELDEL

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Looks great! Subscribing to the thread to hopefully learn something about electrical. I've got a 30x40 that needs to be wired.

I'm also a big fan of the Turbo Buicks! I don't go there much anymore but am 'DEL' on the turbo Buick sites.
 
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bullnerd

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Looking good, what do you plan on using for the inside walls?

Looks great! Subscribing to the thread to hopefully learn something about electrical. I've got a 30x40 that needs to be wired.

I'm also a big fan of the Turbo Buicks! I don't go there much anymore but am 'DEL' on the turbo Buick sites.

All metal,walls and ceiling. I have the metal for the ceiling, 16's, you can see them in some of the pics, I'm using them for a chop saw table. I dont have the wall panels yet. I wanted to wait until I have the upper and lower trim pieces installed first so I can get the exact length of the panel. Its slow going lately.

Yeah love the Buick but unfortunately the engine is out and probably will be for a while. Cant wait to work on it in the new shop.
 

Diesel Dan

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bullnerd,
First off thanks for the thread because it made me look into those large batts and I am going that route as well. Second, what width were your rolls? One Morton builder said theirs was 84" and the other, where I bought them, was 92.5" wide.
 

Coyote556

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Our local Morton shop sells both widths. The reason is because they build with their posts on either 7'6" centers or 8' centers. I think they are actually 88.5" or 92.5" but I could be wrong.
 
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