Best 2-post lift for a garage that is used to park cars daily?

phenryiv1 · Oct 26, 2012

Other than a MaxJax unit (which obviously can be put away when not in use), is there a "best" 2-post lift to install in a garage where 2 cars are parked on a daily basis? I don't have the space to install it as I see some in the threads here (very far forward), and I use my garage to park the cars in overnight, but want to add a lift (if possible) for working on one car at a time. I have (Edit): 20 deep by 23 wide (end edit) but it seems like nearly every inch is in use.

I have no issue with the MaxJax, but I am doing my homework as I prepare to purchase.

No vehicle that I have is over 4000 lb., but excess capacity is not a bad thing. I'd like to keep the cost in the same range as the MaxJax.

Thanks!

Edit: Pictures added:

The pictures above show typical daily parking arrangement. In the front of the garage are steps up into the house, and on the left side (by the Subaru) is a 4' wide area where my tool box, work bench, shelving, and a refrigerator are located. I am in the process of adding that tire rack for my out-of-season and track wheels/tires. On the right (the Acura side) is just a 2-3' wing area with overhead wood storage and a small stoarge cabinet/locker.

In the front I have a closet for the water heater, softener, and well pressure tank.

In these pictures, there is a section of drywall removed while I chased a leak in the water area. The drywall is resting on the shelving that I have on the left of the garage.

torquepower85 · Oct 26, 2012

Are you parking cars under it? Keeping cars on a 2-post for an extended period of time leaves the suspension hanging, which can be bad for your car. You may want to look in to 4-post lifts for parking purposes. The runways will be a lot easier on your suspension.

The same company that makes the MaxJax has some pretty good 4-post lifts for your applications.

Jvvmusme · Oct 26, 2012

MaxJax

pattenp · Oct 26, 2012

Most of the standard two post lifts have the same foot print. Some come in a narrow, medium or wide foot print. With a 24X24 garage you may need to get the narrow or mid width. You just need to lay it out on paper and look at the dimensions of lifts online to see what will work.

edl · Oct 26, 2012

torquepower85 said:
Keeping cars on a 2-post for an extended period of time leaves the suspension hanging, which can be bad for your car.

I have not heard that before - is that true? - why would that be? :dunno:

pattenp · Oct 26, 2012

edl said:
I have not heard that before - is that true? - why would that be?

I've heard it before but have seen no hard info as to why. Just a bunch of opinions about it.

phenryiv1 · Oct 26, 2012

Clarification: ONLY using the lift for service work. NOT using to add additional parking/storage. I was just saying that I park 2 cars in the garage daily and want to continue to do so, so I don't want a parking spot occupied on a permanent basis with a lift. I want to be able to use the 2 spots for parking when I am not working on a car.

phenryiv1 · Oct 26, 2012

If there is a "permanent" lift that let's me park between the uprights and still open the doors on the car between the posts and a car in the adjacent space, I am all ears.

gpalmer77 · Oct 26, 2012

pattenp said:
I've heard it before but have seen no hard info as to why. Just a bunch of opinions about it.

Suspension components (particularly the bushings in the control arms) are torqued at ride height, some manufacturers even call for certain weights to be placed in the car to mimic passengers and luggage, and specific fuel loads. Leaving the suspension hanging for long periods of time will twist the bushings and lead to premature failure.

TRC51 · Oct 26, 2012

This would probably be good for you, but I assume it's too much coin:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-SPL-6-Portable-Single-Post-Lift

Also, not sure about what your configuration is, but have you considered where your door tracks and your door opener are for the location? If you have a Liftmaster style, you are good for opener, but a standard opener may be an issue. Is is a single door garage?

nehog · Oct 26, 2012

torquepower85 said:
Keeping cars on a 2-post for an extended period of time leaves the suspension hanging, which can be bad for your car. ...

Oh, here we go again. Show, from a manufacturer (either lift, or auto-maker) that this happens. It is an old wife's tail, untrue, and silly to repeat.

edl said:
I have not heard that before - is that true? - why would that be?

It is not true. Never was, falls in the same category as all other such tails. Some say: "Common sense..." to which I must reply that sense is neither common nor often sensible!

All cars (except for the possibility of specific, custom built ones) have suspensions that will handle full droop without any problems. Shocks are not damaged. Bushings are not damaged.

And, yes, I do keep a car on a two post lift in the winter for storage. Never a problem either.

bob_the_builder · Oct 26, 2012

One thing you might want to think about is going with an asymmetric lift so the lift can be put closer to the pack of the garage. Then when you want to use the lift you could drive into the spot but for everyday parking you could back in so you have more room to get out of the car.

c39er · Oct 26, 2012

The rubber control arm bushings and shock are tightened in place at ride height so there is no constant twist in the rubber bushings except while driving over bumpy roads. This factory proper method of installing the bushings also keeps the car at a proper level. Now put the car on a 2 post lift the suspension drops down and hangs keeping a constant twist on the rubber bushings which are probably going to get cracked and tear. Especially for Chinese or old bushings!
On real old threaded pin and Steel bushing type suspension this would not be too much of a concern.
Bob

Jvvmusme · Oct 26, 2012

phenryiv1 said:
Clarification: ONLY using the lift for service work. NOT using to add additional parking/storage. I was just saying that I park 2 cars in the garage daily and want to continue to do so, so I don't want a parking spot occupied on a permanent basis with a lift. I want to be able to use the 2 spots for parking when I am not working on a car.

Definetely Maxjax. You would have to move only one column.

gpalmer77 · Oct 26, 2012

c39er said:
The rubber control arm bushings and shock are tightened in place at ride height so there is no constant twist in the rubber bushings except while driving over bumpy roads. This factory proper method of installing the bushings also keeps the car at a proper level. Now put the car on a 2 post lift the suspension drops down and hangs keeping a constant twist on the rubber bushings which are probably going to get cracked and tear. Especially for Chinese or old bushings!
On real old threaded pin and Steel bushing type suspension this would not be too much of a concern.
Bob

^^^^ This. Exactly.

Try putting a mid 90s and later 5 or 7 series BMW on a two post for the winter, then try getting the nasty hydraulic fluid from inside the failed bushings off the paintwork of the car below it.

BMW is one manufacturer who absolutely states this. If you tighten the control arm bushings when dropped, they will fail prematurely at ride height. Logic says the same applies in reverse.

Anyway, OP says this isn't his intention for the two post, so I'll stop spreading my ridiculous mythology.

phenryiv1 · Oct 26, 2012

TRC51 said:
This would probably be good for you, but I assume it's too much coin:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-SPL-6-Portable-Single-Post-Lift

Also, not sure about what your configuration is, but have you considered where your door tracks and your door opener are for the location? If you have a Liftmaster style, you are good for opener, but a standard opener may be an issue. Is is a single door garage?

Slightly more than I wanted to spend, but not out of the question...might be good for saving space.

More garage info: single 16' x 8' door, center lift (traditional opener style) with the opener at about 9' above the floor. Garage has a 12 or 13 foot ceiling. Construction was in 1989 and the slab is of unknown depth (I intend to drill soon to determine slab thickness.

Door is a Clopay door that (I was told) does have the option of a wall-mount opener, but I don't know the cost.

phenryiv1 · Oct 26, 2012

gpalmer77 said:
^^^^ This. Exactly.

Try putting a mid 90s and later 5 or 7 series BMW on a two post for the winter, then try getting the nasty hydraulic fluid from inside the failed bushings off the paintwork of the car below it.

BMW is one manufacturer who absolutely states this. If you tighten the control arm bushings when dropped, they will fail prematurely at ride height. Logic says the same applies in reverse.

Anyway, OP says this isn't his intention for the two post, so I'll stop spreading my ridiculous mythology.

My Subaru states the same. All suspension (save for springs) should be installed under load. Upper mounts should be tightened under load. I'd prefer no never test the effects of prolonged full droop.

nehog · Oct 26, 2012

There is a big difference between installing under load, and storing drooped. In the former case, the entire weight of the vehicle is on the bushings, in the latter only a small fraction of the weight. Again, maybe we should check with manufacturers of both vehicles and lifts and see what they say about storage using a frame lift.

gpalmer77 · Oct 26, 2012

nehog said:
There is a big difference between installing under load, and storing drooped. In the former case, the entire weight of the vehicle is on the bushings, in the latter only a small fraction of the weight. Again, maybe we should check with manufacturers of both vehicles and lifts and see what they say about storage using a frame lift.

If the weight of the car is on the bushings, you did something wrong. The springs support the weight of the car. If correctly designed and installed, there should be minimum thrust on the bushings on a static, loaded car. They would fail much faster otherwise.

I was genuinely surprised when you said it was okay to store a car on a two post. I am from Europe originally, and any time I've had this conversation, its always ended in "never store a car with the suspension dropped." Same applies for jackstands that aren't under the suspension members.

TRC51 · Oct 27, 2012

phenryiv1 said:
Slightly more than I wanted to spend, but not out of the question...might be good for saving space.

More garage info: single 16' x 8' door, center lift (traditional opener style) with the opener at about 9' above the floor. Garage has a 12 or 13 foot ceiling. Construction was in 1989 and the slab is of unknown depth (I intend to drill soon to determine slab thickness.

Door is a Clopay door that (I was told) does have the option of a wall-mount opener, but I don't know the cost.

About the same as mine, but my door is off center. Why... well... a couple reasons that don't matter to you, but one was so I could put a lift all the way to one side and still get another car in there. You have to consider where you are putting your lift because.. not just the lift has to clear the tracks and opener. The car has to clear it when lifted too. I have to say, it might be tricky for you with a lift all the way to the left of one side and not hit the door track. If you move it so you miss the track, then you might have trouble getting the second car in easily.

My dad pretty much has the same garage, but with lower ceiling height. Do think the tracks are high enough to be over the car when lifted?

abstamaria · Oct 27, 2012

I am a two-lift guy, but for this application feel a 4-poster is best.

In a Lotus or Triumph, the rubber suspension bushes consist of rubber bonded to inner and outer metal sleeves. The bushes allow suspension movement by twisting in between the two sleeves. They are torqued with the car in ride height position. I have always assumed that this ensured that the bushes would not be twisted when the car is stationary. When the car is lifted, the suspension droops, the outer sleeve rotates with the suspension arm (the inner sleeve remaining fixed), and the rubber between them twists, elongating internally to permit movement. It seemed to me to be like a rubber band that is kept stretched, and I felt this can't be too good for those bushes. I still believe in that old wives' tale.

The same reason perhaps applies to turning an engine over when stored. Among other effects, that way the valve springs are not kept compressed or in the same position over lengths of time. Another old wives' tale probably, but I believe it.

A good reason for not using a two-post lift for parking is that it will be a chore to position a car between the posts and set the arms on a daily basis. On a 4-poster, you just drive on. By the way, a MaxJax will be too low to allow most cars to park beneath a suspended vehicle.

Good luck.

Andy

abstamaria · Oct 27, 2012

I probably misread the title and the original post incorrectly. I read "2-post lift for a garage that is used to park cars daily" as meaning a lift that will be used for parking. I don't think now that that was the OP's intent.

If a convenient, not obtrusive 2-post lift is needed for a crowded garage, then a MaxJax would be a good choice. There are probably others, as mentioned above.

Ciao,

Andy

nehog · Oct 27, 2012

gpalmer77 said:
(1) If the weight of the car is on the bushings, you did something wrong. ...

(2)I was genuinely surprised when you said it was okay to store a car on a two post. I am from Europe originally, and any time I've had this conversation, its always ended in "never store a car with the suspension dropped." Same applies for jackstands that aren't under the suspension members.

(1) Absolutely correct. The bushings hold thing in alignment, but don't bear weight.

(2) I've been doing this for years without ever having a problem. I've never seen a manufacturer say their cars should not be 'stored' with the suspension drooping. Perhaps for some exotic cars this might be true, but certainly not for the average vehicle. Suspensions are robust, they must be, and can withstand a lot of abuse without problems. If a car suffers damage from being stored from the frame, I'm not sure I'd want that car (excluding those exotic ones...)

TheShrine · Oct 27, 2012

bob_the_builder said:
One thing you might want to think about is going with an asymmetric lift so the lift can be put closer to the pack of the garage. Then when you want to use the lift you could drive into the spot but for everyday parking you could back in so you have more room to get out of the car.

What Bob said...that's my setup. I pull in garage with any car/truck and can enter/exit the vehicle with ease. If I want to lift I pull forward a coulpe of feet into my asymmetrical and load up.

I store on my lift as well, but haven't done so for more than 4 months.

brownbagg · Oct 27, 2012

i have a two post bendpak but i was to store a car, i would want a four post, you could alway add caster to pull the lift out when not in use

Air_Cooled_Nut · Oct 27, 2012

TRC51 said:
This would probably be good for you, but I assume it's too much coin:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-SPL-6-Portable-Single-Post-Lift

I'm not through this thread yet but THANKS for that link! That is a great idea! :rocker:

The price doesn't seem all that bad, either. Oh, and 110volts, not 240v! Another advantage

Todd.Brock · Oct 27, 2012

Think about a mid rise lift.

phenryiv1 · Oct 28, 2012

Updated first post with pictures.

Jvvmusme · Oct 28, 2012

After watching the pics of your garage your only option is a maxjax or get a bigger garage

TRC51 · Oct 28, 2012

Jvvmusme said:
After watching the pics of your garage your only option is a maxjax or get a bigger garage

Unfortunately I agree.

Air_Cooled_Nut · Oct 28, 2012

Or else that hand-truck unit from Greg Smith. Yeah, very tight arrangement in there.

phenryiv1 · Oct 29, 2012

Jvvmusme said:
After watching the pics of your garage your only option is a maxjax or get a bigger garage

I had fairly resigned myself to that. A larger garage is still several years out, but at least I could relocate the MaxJax unit (and have it mobile) when I do add capacity.

Jvvmusme · Oct 29, 2012

phenryiv1 said:
I had fairly resigned myself to that. A larger garage is still several years out, but at least I could relocate the MaxJax unit (and have it mobile) when I do add capacity.

I have a smaller garage than yours (3 x 6 meters - 10 x 20) . What I did was that I made 2 sets of pads for the MaxJax. One inside the garage and one outside the garage so when the weather is nice I use the MaxJax outside and the garage remains unmolested....

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120828&highlight=bogota

In My Garage · Oct 30, 2012

phenryiv1 said:
20 deep by 23 wide but it seems like nearly every inch is in use.

That already is bigger than the standard 2-car garage. You have too much stuff in it...put some of it in a garden shed.

MaxJax!

Mount one column permanently close to the wall and just remove the other column that is more centered in the garage. That is what I am doing.

phenryiv1 · Oct 31, 2012

In My Garage said:
That already is bigger than the standard 2-car garage. You have too much stuff in it...put some of it in a garden shed.

Most of what is in there (save for the fridge, obviously) is for automobiles. That 8' H x 2' D x 4' W shelf is all car parts, car tools, and a few misc. other power tools. 90% of the workbench is automotive tools. The whole tool chest is automotive tools. The "locker" by the wall is full of oil, cleaners, filters, etc., all for cars. All of my kids' toys, garden tools, etc. are already in a shed. I just need a bigger garage!

I am exploring placement of that 8' tall shelf in another location to give more room by the Subaru. I am too short to reach the top as it is, so I may cut it down by a foot or so and move it to the spot where the grey locker is located and tuck it under the overhead storage rack on the Acura side of the garage.

Having 4 cars (2 of them ongoing projects) makes it very difficult to stay organized.

In My Garage said:
MaxJax!

Mount one column permanently close to the wall and just remove the other column that is more centered in the garage. That is what I am doing.

Good idea there.

simple man · Oct 31, 2012

pattenp said:
Most of the standard two post lifts have the same foot print. Some come in a narrow, medium or wide foot print. With a 24X24 garage you may need to get the narrow or mid width. You just need to lay it out on paper and look at the dimensions of lifts online to see what will work.

I think you will find out that a BendPak lift will not allow you to easily park two cars in the garage along with the lift. A 9000# BendPak lift is a minimum of 11 feet wide, outside post to outside post, then add in clearance for the side wall and you are probably up to 13 feet wide. That only allows for 10 feet for the second car,could be tough opening the car doors.

Rick

achillesb · Oct 19, 2018

This is and old but good thread, I’m looking into the best answer for the same question. I’m designing a garage and would rather do a 16 or 18’ wide single stall but can go up to 24 or 26. I’m limited to 24’ depth.

Is there an asymmetric 2-post that you can install close to the far wall (opposite the garage doors)? How close can you get? Ideally, you’d be able to pull in to the garage to park and open all doors without hitting the posts. When you need to lift, pull forward. Is this doable with 24’ depth??

mmb617 · Oct 20, 2018

achillesb said:
Is there an asymmetric 2-post that you can install close to the far wall (opposite the garage doors)? How close can you get? Ideally, you’d be able to pull in to the garage to park and open all doors without hitting the posts. When you need to lift, pull forward. Is this doable with 24’ depth??

My lift columns are 11 ft 6 inches on center from the wall opposite the garage doors but I have a 2 ft deep workbench mounted on that wall, so it would be possible to have the columns 2 ft farther forward if I didn't have the workbench.

That would put the columns 9 1/2 ft from the far wall which would probably allow a smaller car to park with all doors behind the posts, but might not allow much if any room between the rear of the car and the garage door.

What I do is park so the front doors are in front of the post and will clear, but not so far that the rear doors can't be opened. If you are parking the same car in the space all the time it doesn't take long to know exactly how far forward to pull up so this works.

Best 2-post lift for a garage that is used to park cars daily?

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