PVC or CPVC Is Not Good To Use For Compressed Air Lines!

This has been discussed to death. See the posts below for more info...

http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=515&highlight=pvc
http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=1219&highlight=pvc
http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=37&highlight=pvc
http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=281&highlight=pvc

And dont you worry...it will be discussed 4 million more times...look forward to it

I figured I would try to at least prevent a few of the threads before they begin.

But my buddy _____________ (insert name here) has used PVC air lines in his shop for _______ (insert number of years here) years and it's been working great!

I am using galvanized piping. I'm worried PVC would shatter and I would get hit with the shrapnel. LOL

You guys talking about PVC? or CPVC? or both?

Both...

I ain't going to comment................. I have a 24' garage with 50' of Goodyear hose....

what about heater hose? I can get it cheap!

and hose clamps amd barb fittings!

I Knew It!

I KNEW IT! THANKS luckydevil, this is a warranted, well justified use of the "Sticky" function.

How about garden hose. Keep the pressure low, comes in 125' sectons.

Cold water PVC is rated at (without checking) 400 or 600 lbs. I have not had problems for 12 years. with 5 hsp 60gal, sanborn. With the cost of this system I put a quick connect at 7 quick connects around the inside walls and ceiling reel. It cost more for the female quick connects than the rest of the plumbing. If you can afford black pipe, galvinized, or staniless go for it.

I'm not going to even comment on this. The proof is in the other post.

I work for the OSHA Consultation program, no I am not joking. OSHA writes citations on this regularly. It does not matter whether you run PVC or CPVC, either one was not manufactured for use as air lines. Either of these materials will deteriorate and shatter under the wrong circumstances. If you are going to be ignorant enough to insist on using this material for air lines, at least do this, run your lines at ceiling level, or possibly in the attic space, then use copper or gavanize for your drop points. This way you get to use the line you want, however you guard yourself and others against injury. This is called guarding by location. We do see instances where these lines shatter, so yes it does happen.

another reason NOT to use pvc. read the second paragraph

http://www.project33.com/Categoryarticle.cfm?ID=69&Category=Body

later jim

Legal, safe plastic pipe alternatives to PVC

When I saw this post I went and read all of the posts in every thread that Luke (Luckydevil) provided. Not desiring to beat a dead horse any more, I know how much of a time waster it can be, (I myself am the moderator of a active aviation technical forum), I am only providing the following information, as I could not find it here already, and thought that it might be useful to someone.

There are different types of plastics approved for use with compressed gasses (including air) under specifications set forth by California state OSHA Standard “Plastic Piping Systems for Compressed Air” Title 8, Chapter 4, and accepted by most all states and Federal OSHA. Generally these are a Type of ABS plastic and are not PVC.

One is a specialized ABS pipe, (Chemaire produced by Nibco), and it is not cheap however, with 1" running about $300 for 100 ft if I recall correctly, plus fairly pricey fittings, but it is a solvent weld (glue) type system and is easily assembled by a do-it-yourselfer. They also have O-ring type fittings that can be connected and using a tool, disconnected later if you desire. Same pipe, two different types of fittings. Read all about it in the link below. (large PDF file, don't try this on a phone modem)

http://www.nibco.com/assets/ChmairTech.pdf

Beyond this, I have seen lost of mention of Copper Pipe in various threads on this forum, but none bothered to provide a link to an all important, guide. The Copper Tube Handbook, by the Copper Development Association, which is an industry organization that promotes all kinds of copper use. This book will answer all of the questions about pipe grades (K, L etc) and their working pressures, strengths, optimum dimensions, jointing information, etc. (also a large PDF file, again, don't try this on a phone modem)

http://www.copper.org/resources/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf

There is also a system made by Asahi, and marketed by PEP that used a heat welded joint system and a polypropelyene pipe and fittings (bright blue), this requires special equipment and is not suited to the small shop type jobs but is aimed at large industrial installations

http://www.pep-plastic.com/manufact...ropylenePiping/compressedairPipingSystem.html


I hope this helps everyones understanding of options for a safe Compressed air system.

Charles


PS, please excuse me if the post is not formatted correctly or I could have done the links different , I am new to this board and still learning the "ropes"

Charles (in GA) said:

PS, please excuse me if the post is not formatted correctly or I could have done the links different , I am new to this board and still learning the "ropes"

Click to expand...

You're fine. Welcome to the site and good info.

What about sch 80 instead of sch 40?

What about sch 80 instead of sch 40?

Click to expand...

Its still PVC, its the nature of the "beast", might be stronger, but still shatters when it lets go, from impact damage, fatigue, atmospheric chemical attacks, etc.

Your only safe options are quality galvanized threaded pipe, Copper, one of the ABS plastic pipe systems, or the aluminum piped system. All expensive.

Charles

Changed mine out to copper after 17 yrs. I could tell that the PVC pipe was very brittle when I cut it up.

Thanks to Charles...and Mike348 for the info...