Cutting IKEA butcher block - workbench project

964haus · Nov 6, 2012

Hi all,
I'm looking at a butcher block top for my workbench project. My challenge is that my workbench is longer than the longest top from IKEA.

So I'm wondering if it's a good thing/bad thing to use 2 pieces and just **** them up against each other, fill any depressions, and smooth it out. Any tips on making it as secure as possible? I'm not the most advanced woodworker (actually very basic) so I'm not up for biscuit/router/skilled methods of securing 2 pieces together....

Also, the workbench is typical 2x4 construction - wondering how people attach their worktops to the frame. I'm thinking of glue + screwing up from below (through the supporting 2x4s). Any better ideas?

For reference, the workbench is 9'4" wide x 25" (depth of IKEA countertop)

Thanks everyone.

Matthew.

pnut · Nov 6, 2012

I plan to do just that, use Ikea countertops, butting 2 together, and using some dowels and glue, or just screw a small attachment from underneath. Although mine will be laminate.

pattenp · Nov 6, 2012

If the frame is open then just scab on a piece of 1/2" ply to the under side of the butcher block where the two pieces meet to keep them in alignment. I used pocket screws to hold down the top on my work bench to a 2x4 frame.

JimVonBaden · Nov 6, 2012

pnut said:
I plan to do just that, use Ikea countertops, butting 2 together, and using some dowels and glue, or just screw a small attachment from underneath. Although mine will be laminate.

That is a good idea. Dowels will keep them from independently moving against each other. Also, scabbing a piece of wood on the underside will keep them from separating.

Jim

RCStocker · Nov 6, 2012

Not Ikea. It is all ****!
You can buy comercial bench tops in different lengths. They come in some very long lengths. I have a stash of old bowling alley wood lanes. I have used that for years for work bench tops. Ikea will be sofer hard woods or soft wood. Check Grainger or McMaster Carr to get an idea then go find it cheap.

Kevin54 · Nov 6, 2012

RCStocker said:
Not Ikea. It is all ****!
You can buy comercial bench tops in different lengths. They come in some very long lengths. I have a stash of old bowling alley wood lanes. I have used that for years for work bench tops. Ikea will be sofer hard woods or soft wood. Check Grainger or McMaster Carr to get an idea then go find it cheap.

So what's your location and are you willing to sell any of the "stash"?

pattenp · Nov 6, 2012

Can you get southern yellow pine? That was my cheap solution for my bench top.

View media item 2162

deter · Nov 6, 2012

old bowling alley lanes make awesome benches

964haus · Nov 6, 2012

I'm up in Vancouver and I've trolled various sites (those suggested as well as CL) to look for a suitable top. Factoring in shipping, I'd end up paying more than double for the same thing from IKEA.

I know it's not the highest quality materials, but I have to pick and choose carefully where I spend money on my shed. Given the "moderate" type of work I intend doing on it, I think it fits the bill.

I would love to go higher end, but after a few months of searching around, I'm just not finding it cost effective where I'm located.

Big-Foot · Nov 6, 2012

RCStocker said:
Not Ikea. It is all ****!
You can buy comercial bench tops in different lengths. They come in some very long lengths. I have a stash of old bowling alley wood lanes. I have used that for years for work bench tops. Ikea will be sofer hard woods or soft wood. Check Grainger or McMaster Carr to get an idea then go find it cheap.

I am in the process of finishing a full remodel of our kitchen and used IKEA Oak Butcher Block and find it of exceptional quality. Heavier than all heck, but it has finished out beautifully and is solid oak 1-1/2" thick with NO FILLER as I had seen with some other so-called solid oak counters when the installers cut the hole for the sink and found MDF in the core. That particular counter top (I was told) came from a rather large liquidator of wood products.

Here is a shot before sanding and sealing with Waterlox:

72269419-C7F1-4F21-8EA9-33D109C94836-165-00000018A3825880.jpg

Joining them -

There are plenty of solutions out there to mechanically join counter tops. The ones I chose (no pictures sorry) screw to the bottoms with a bracket on each counter and have a bolt that pulls the brackets together. The brackets interlock with each other and form an exceptionally strong union. I used two such sets on my counters..

Regnar · Nov 6, 2012

Have a look at Kreg Jigs. Cheap and works great!

Professur · Nov 6, 2012

Personally ... get 17 2x4s-10', some doweling and some threaded rod with washers and nuts to match, load them into a drill press and drill a hole in the broad side every foot, dead centre. Diameter depends on the size of dowel and rod naturally. The first and last boards you'll want to drill countersinks (sorry for the pun) to bury the nuts on the rods. Remember that you don't need to countersink the dowels. When the lot is drilled, glue them together, alternating rods and dowels. If you've done it right, you now have a counter top that's stronger than any you'll buy. Seal the top with several coats of varathane and you're ready to install it however you like. Total time minus drying ... probably under 2 hours if you've any skills at all. Maybe half a day if you have to drill by hand. Probably still faster than the line up at the Ikea cash.

MileHigh · Nov 6, 2012

RCStocker said:
Not Ikea. It is all ****!
You can buy comercial bench tops in different lengths. They come in some very long lengths. I have a stash of old bowling alley wood lanes. I have used that for years for work bench tops. Ikea will be sofer hard woods or soft wood. Check Grainger or McMaster Carr to get an idea then go find it cheap.

Yea RC, Bowling alley lanes do make awesome tops. My grandfather's top is made out of one back in 67' and still rock solid today.

I'd be interested in buying some of your stash too if you were close

Br@ndon · Nov 6, 2012

Professur said:
Personally ... get 17 2x4s-10', some doweling and some threaded rod with washers and nuts to match, load them into a drill press and drill a hole in the broad side every foot, dead centre. Diameter depends on the size of dowel and rod naturally. The first and last boards you'll want to drill countersinks (sorry for the pun) to bury the nuts on the rods. Remember that you don't need to countersink the dowels. When the lot is drilled, glue them together, alternating rods and dowels. If you've done it right, you now have a counter top that's stronger than any you'll buy. Seal the top with several coats of varathane and you're ready to install it however you like. Total time minus drying ... probably under 2 hours if you've any skills at all. Maybe half a day if you have to drill by hand. Probably still faster than the line up at the Ikea cash.

That sounds like a pretty nice workbench top. Could you post some pics of yours?

-Brent- · Nov 6, 2012

I went to lumber liquidators and bought a damaged countertop, which, luckily for me was way too long and wide. I was able to trim all the damaged areas off and upgrade my utility countertop.

Previously, the countertop was barn wood slats and linoleum topped and painted white.

Before:

During: (Test fitting)

After: (The rooms isn't completed here.)

I paid about 40% of retail, I think. This room has undergone a ton of changes but I get a ton of complements on the top. It needed a bunch of work. I wouldn't say Lumber Liquidators tops are high quality but after I put work in, it came out great.

Professur · Nov 6, 2012

Br@ndon said:
That sounds like a pretty nice workbench top. Could you post some pics of yours?

It's at the cottage. Remind me in April when we open and I'll take some.

Jack Olsen · Nov 6, 2012

RCStocker said:
Not Ikea. It is all ****!
You can buy comercial bench tops in different lengths. They come in some very long lengths. I have a stash of old bowling alley wood lanes. I have used that for years for work bench tops. Ikea will be sofer hard woods or soft wood. Check Grainger or McMaster Carr to get an idea then go find it cheap.

I've got two Ikea butcher block bench tops. One is birch and the other is oak. They're every bit as good as my Lista butcher block top -- and significantly less expensive.

To the OP, I would only try dowels if you have a very good way of positioning the holes -- or you'll be permanently setting the two pieces out of alignment. In your shoes, I'd go for the suggestion of a piece of plywood underneath the joint. If you want it seamless, you'll need to cut 1/4" or so off of each mating surface to eliminate the bevel. But you'd need a very precise way to make that cut. You could also center the seam, and sandwich in a thin slice of something that's a contrasting color, just to make the joint look intentional.

Alchymist · Nov 6, 2012

Jack Olsen said:
I've got two Ikea butcher block bench tops. One is birch and the other is oak. They're every bit as good as my Lista butcher block top -- and significantly less expensive.

To the OP, I would only try dowels if you have a very good way of positioning the holes -- or you'll be permanently setting the two pieces out of alignment. In your shoes, I'd go for the suggestion of a piece of plywood underneath the joint. If you want it seamless, you'll need to cut 1/4" or so off of each mating surface to eliminate the bevel. But you'd need a very precise way to make that cut. You could also center the seam, and sandwich in a thin slice of something that's a contrasting color, just to make the joint look intentional.

Do this, making the slice about 2 or 2-1/2" wide, then cut in a couple of 6" long butterflies at right angles to the insert. Insert about 3/4" thick or so, butterflies about 3/8", contrasting wood. Something like this:

brianpgriset · Nov 6, 2012

I have an ikea butcher block top and its held up great for over a year. I laid 6 heavy coats of urethane on them and they have a great deep shine. Best of all I only paid like $40 a piece since they were on clearance.

machine_punk · Nov 6, 2012

I have the Ikea top, in the kitchen. If I was looking for butcher block in the garage, I would not hesitate to use Ikea.

I highly recommend 'double 3/4" plywood' tops for benches...
View media item 23909
View media item 19827
View media item 18635
Kev

danski0224 · Nov 6, 2012

Jack Olsen said:
To the OP, I would only try dowels if you have a very good way of positioning the holes -- or you'll be permanently setting the two pieces out of alignment.

Festool Domino fixes that problem.

mbatarga · Nov 6, 2012

Use the hardware style made for for countertop joints:

http://www.cdmcabinethardware.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Countertop_Fasteners_416.html

mattygee · Nov 6, 2012

I installed some IKEA butcher block top in a kitchen a while back... I made a template to rout out pockets on the underside for standard "T" countertop bolts. I used a straightedge and flush trim bit in my router to sweeten up the **** edges after rough cutting with a circular saw. Any slight misalignment at the joint can be sanded out after the glue dries.

Matt

machine_punk · Nov 6, 2012

OH...what I wanted to say was DO NOT fasten a solid wood top all the way around...it is going to move with the seasons and will split, or damage the frame, if you solidly attach it all the way around.

There are any numbers of ways to fasten a solid wood top in a way it can move.

Norcal · Nov 7, 2012

For some table tops I used some 1 1/8" plywood covered w/ 3/8" MDF, had some stain sitting around so used it w/ a couple or 3 coats of Varathane or some other brand of finish.

BrianJ · Nov 7, 2012

I'm doing the exact as OP. I was thinking of a 'L' bracket to attach.

machine_punk said:
OH...what I wanted to say was DO NOT fasten a solid wood top all the way around...it is going to move with the seasons and will split, or damage the frame, if you solidly attach it all the way around.

There are any numbers of ways to fasten a solid wood top in a way it can move.

Can you recommend a few methods to attach?

csp · Nov 7, 2012

The easiest is to enlarge the holes that your screws pass through in the cabinets/frame. This way the screws hold the countertop tight to the cabinets, but they can move laterally as the wood expands/contracts.

SlappyWhite · Nov 7, 2012

I like the ikea idea but as another option, how about a piece of plywood covered with maple hardwood floor (glued and nailed) that does not have bevels?

The hardwood could be an end of line/left over and had on the cheap.

GarageEnvy · Nov 7, 2012

In my shed I ripped 2x4 and glued together. I belt sanded out any areas that were uneven. Professur has the correct way of doing this method but I haven't had any problems with the top. It's unfinished and 12 years old. In my garage I simply scabbed on underneath to **** joint my counters. It has also worked fine. On previous projects like a coffee table I made a while back I used biscuits. Back in the day I used dowels but as Jack mentioned, alignment can be tricky. On a project for a friend I basically created one long dovetail joint with a router. Before I used biscuits I made a lot of joints with splines. I'd simply put a slot cutter in a router and groove both sides. Then I'd glue in a spline. That's the method I've had the best luck with. If you're looking to impress people you could always scarf joint it (shallow angle on both sides that overlap each other.

Lots of ways to skin the cat. Unless an absolutely perfect joint was needed, I'd just scab a piece underneath. My step up from that would be biscuit or spline.

NewShockerGuy · Dec 31, 2012

I was planning on making my own workbench top using 2x4's glue and all thread...It was then pointed out to me that I should get an Ikea butcher block top... glad I did because for $120 there is no way I could have made something as nice let alone the amount of time I would have spent on it... I used a freud 40 tooth fine tooth blade in my circular saw and it cut like butter. No jagged edges what so ever.

Here is a picture of it before I am attaching the backsplash and only the 3rd of 6 coats of waterlox. And before I attach it to the base cabinet in the garage..

This was the top before:

This is the Ikea that I cut the depth from 25" to 21" and then using that 4" piece as a backsplash.

So far I am quite pleased with the oak ikea butcher block top... it's MUCH harder than the Sam's club sevelle work bench... I can use my fingernail to dig into the maple on that butcher block.. it's kind of annoying. This one is VERY tough and completely SOLID through.

-Nigel

Big-Foot · Dec 31, 2012

Very nice Nigel!!!! :thumbup:

cagullett1 · Mar 12, 2015

NewShockerGuy said:
So far I am quite pleased with the oak ikea butcher block top... it's MUCH harder than the Sam's club sevelle work bench... I can use my fingernail to dig into the maple on that butcher block.. it's kind of annoying. This one is VERY tough and completely SOLID through.

-Nigel

Do you have the Seville maple top? If so, around when was it purchased? They switched the tops about a year and a half ago. I have one of the workbenches that was the display from the older top and it has held up "okay". it definitely shows wear and will probably be replaced sooner than I would rather. Curious how much time you have spent using the Seville maple top.

Gear Wolf · Mar 14, 2015

Good thread. Never though of using the butcher block in this way.

John in OH · Mar 14, 2015

I briefly looked at the butcher block counter tops on Ikea's website and the half-dozen or so that I looked at are not true butcher block construction. They appear to typically have a 9/64" veneer of hardwood over an OSB core.

So, does Ikea actually sell true, solid, butcher block tops or did I not look at the correct product listings?

deezee · Mar 14, 2015

I had a friend do mine. 2x4's glued together. Where the two pieces joined together I placed a strip if plywood underneath and filled the join.

2Big2Ride · Mar 14, 2015

mattygee said:
I installed some IKEA butcher block top in a kitchen a while back... I made a template to rout out pockets on the underside for standard "T" countertop bolts. I used a straightedge and flush trim bit in my router to sweeten up the **** edges after rough cutting with a circular saw. Any slight misalignment at the joint can be sanded out after the glue dries.

Matt

This is similar to what we did for the wife's art studio. Cut a straight edge on both pieces with the circular saw and straight edge to make the joint edges. Flipped it over and free hand routed cavities for the T countertop bolts used to mate prefabed countertops from the local big box hardware store. Put some glue on the joint and sucked it up tight. Mounted the top using the slotted IKEA brackets that came with the top so it would accommodate movement in the wood. Sanded the whole thing and applied Danish oil.

aosty · Mar 14, 2015

The Numerar and Lagan models are definitely real butcher blocks made from solid wood.

John in OH said:
I briefly looked at the butcher block counter tops on Ikea's website and the half-dozen or so that I looked at are not true butcher block construction. They appear to typically have a 9/64" veneer of hardwood over an OSB core.

So, does Ikea actually sell true, solid, butcher block tops or did I not look at the correct product listings?

67carl · Mar 14, 2015

John in OH said:
I briefly looked at the butcher block counter tops on Ikea's website and the half-dozen or so that I looked at are not true butcher block construction. They appear to typically have a 9/64" veneer of hardwood over an OSB core.

So, does Ikea actually sell true, solid, butcher block tops or did I not look at the correct product listings?

I found 6 or 7 different brands, with each having a few size options. Start here:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274963/

Cutting IKEA butcher block - workbench project

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

MEMBER EMERITUS

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Super Moderator

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member