What screw to use for securing plywood to shop wall?

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

I have no siding on my interior shop walls, just insulation that was installed by the PO. I got a good deal on 3/4" sanded plywood that I will be installing length-wise (8' long, 4' high) along the bottom third of my shop. I think I want to use a screw-type fastener to secure the plywood, the reason being if I need to replace a panel. No, I don't plan on replacing panels often...probably never in my lifetime...but just in case.

Studs are 16" on-center; plywood is 3/4". Pictures of my shop in my signature (click My shop). Recommendations?
Thanks :beer:

DaleK · Nov 14, 2012

Are you going to paint it? I'd just use 2.5"-3" deck screws.

Shocker · Nov 14, 2012

I used 1 3/4 inch drywall screws. I used a few extra to make sure it stuck even if I hung something from it.

Also, I made sure that I set the bottom of the 4x8 on the wooden framing of the wall. If you get my meaning...

That way the bottom sheet was supported by the top of the stemwall thus the next sheet was supported by the bottom sheet. That way you don't rely on the screws to support the wall vertically.

ZRX61 · Nov 14, 2012

If you use drywall screws you'll be popping the head off half of them... Go with deck screws

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

Yes, painted. Gotcha, no drywall screws. 2-1/2" length, correct?

RVDan · Nov 14, 2012

I'd think 1.5" would be long enough.

My workshop is sheeted on the outside with 3/4 plywood held on by 1.25" screws slightly countersunk, So far so good.

Andybull · Nov 14, 2012

I like to use 1 5/8" square drive screws like these or similar to. They have serrations built in to the screw head which helps to countersink the head as the screw is driven into the wood.
One is made for wood studs, the other will self drill into metal backing.

http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submittal-sheets/accessories/durock/durock-screw-submittal-CB400.pdf

rshadd · Nov 14, 2012

I used square drive screws to fasten that 1/2 plywood in my garage. The square drives are nicer to work with then phillips. They'll take more torque and won't round out as easy.

Tim The Tool Man · Nov 14, 2012

I would recommend 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 lath screws. They have a nice washer head on them that will prevent them from borrowing into the plywood and getting lost. They can be found at any home center for about the same cost as primed decking screws.
Definitely avoid drywall screws, they are very brittle.

Notch1988 · Nov 14, 2012

Air_Cooled_Nut said:
Yes, painted. Gotcha, no drywall screws. 2-1/2" length, correct?

You'll be sinking 1.75" of screw into the wall, I'd be worried about hitting wiring, definitely too long.

I did 1/2" plywood in my last shop with drywall screws and don't see the issue. I used a drywall countersink bit and went to town. After a couple years I never noticed any "pops" but even so it's not like I'd have to remud, sand and paint the area after turning the screw back in.

JimVonBaden · Nov 14, 2012

Notch1988 said:
You'll be sinking 1.75" of screw into the wall, I'd be worried about hitting wiring, definitely too long.

I did 1/2" plywood in my last shop with drywall screws and don't see the issue. I used a drywall countersink bit and went to town. After a couple years I never noticed any "pops" but even so it's not like I'd have to remud, sand and paint the area after turning the screw back in.

You should not be hitting any wiring. If you have wires through the wall you need wire plates to protect the wiring.

Jim

NUTTSGT · Nov 14, 2012

I was always taught that the screw length should be 2-3 times the thickness of the material you're screwing through. If it's 3/4", then 1 1/2" to 2 1/4" long screws should be ok. I used some drywall screws on some of the OSB I hung in my garage, occasionaly, one would break. Since you're only doing the lower course, I'd pay the premium for a better screw.

Something I would do, albeit time consuming, is to predrill the holes. OSB is relatively soft (softwood like pine) when compared to sanded plywood, which is generally a hardwood veneer. If you don't predrill, I'd be afraid cracking/splitting that nice looking plywood.

nutjob · Nov 14, 2012

Deck screws are fine, but check the prices on the Spax brand screws.
They are not just a drywall screw. They will not break and are designed to self drill.

Use an impact driver with a phillps screw/bit. Driving this many srews though 3/4 ply and into the studs, you really do not want to use a drill even with square drive.

Kevin

NUTTSGT · Nov 14, 2012

nutjob said:
Deck screws are fine, but check the prices on the Spax brand screws.
They are not just a drywall screw. They will not break and are designed to self drill.

Use an impact driver with a phillps screw/bit. Driving this many srews though 3/4 ply and into the studs, you really do not want to use a drill even with square drive.

Kevin

Yes IMPACT driver, if you don't have one, you now have the excuse to buy one. :beer:

ryaninmichigan · Nov 14, 2012

NUTTSGT said:
I was always taught that the screw length should be 2-3 times the thickness of the material you're screwing through. If it's 3/4", then 1 1/2" to 2 1/4" long screws should be ok. I used some drywall screws on some of the OSB I hung in my garage, occasionaly, one would break. Since you're only doing the lower course, I'd pay the premium for a better screw.

Something I would do, albeit time consuming, is to predrill the holes. OSB is relatively soft (softwood like pine) when compared to sanded plywood, which is generally a hardwood veneer. If you don't predrill, I'd be afraid cracking/splitting that nice looking plywood.

This is correct 2/3 of the fastner should go into the substraight. Your screw needs to be 2.5 inches long. As they do not make 2.25 inch screws. And I would sudjest square drive deck screws

rlitman · Nov 14, 2012

NUTTSGT said:
Something I would do, albeit time consuming, is to predrill the holes. OSB is relatively soft (softwood like pine) when compared to sanded plywood, which is generally a hardwood veneer. If you don't predrill, I'd be afraid cracking/splitting that nice looking plywood.

Plywood is made from soft woods. Usually pine around here.
"Hardwood plywood" is made from hardwood. It is NEVER sold as structural plywood though, and is a completely different animal.

Predrilling isn't a bad idea, but it is the countersinking that is more important than the drilling. The force to squish the plywood to get a flat head screw level with the surface can tear out threads. Just get a countersink/pilot drill. It doesn't even need to be half as long as the screws to help a whole lot.

Toomanytools? · Nov 14, 2012

Just get a 5 gallon bucket and dump in 1"5/8, 2", 2"1/2 screws and shake it up and use out of the bucket whatever you pick...pretty much where the answers are.
Ok what size #8, #10,#12? On a serious note as stated in post #15, 2.25" is the correct length but since those are hard to come by in a deck screw go with #8 x 2.5" or I think even a 2" will be fine. Now you need to ask what spacing?

ctb · Nov 14, 2012

ryaninmichigan said:
This is correct 2/3 of the fastner should go into the substraight. Your screw needs to be 2.5 inches long. As they do not make 2.25 inch screws. And I would sudjest square drive deck screws

That's the way I learned it too.

casetractorfarmer · Nov 14, 2012

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/fasteners/screws/wood/construction-screw/p-1458946.htm

I used these in 1/2 inch osb in my garage on the walls

DaleK · Nov 14, 2012

Mark the wires/pipes before you screw. You have some pretty substantial plywood so the more secure it is, you can fasten a lot to it later without worrying as much about hitting studs. I'd glue it too but you want to remove it if you need to

DPelletier · Nov 14, 2012

my 2 cents;

- pre-drilling is nice but way more labor and it isn't required

- use a good quality countersunk wood screw with a Robertson head.

- I'd use 2 1/4" long ideally.

Dave

IndyGarage · Nov 14, 2012

I really like the self countersinking deck screws - don't know if they work as well on plywood or not. If not, I would use drywall screws, but I would use a center drill to countersink them.

If you are installing over drywall, then I would go 2 1/2 inch screws, if the plywood is directly on top of the studs, then 1 1/2 are fine

I would also use a laser level or at least layout lines to ID the location of the studs, so there's no guessing.

NUTTSGT · Nov 14, 2012

rlitman said:
Plywood is made from soft woods. Usually pine around here.
"Hardwood plywood" is made from hardwood. It is NEVER sold as structural plywood though, and is a completely different animal.

Predrilling isn't a bad idea, but it is the countersinking that is more important than the drilling. The force to squish the plywood to get a flat head screw level with the surface can tear out threads. Just get a countersink/pilot drill. It doesn't even need to be half as long as the screws to help a whole lot.

I whole heartedly agree about the hardwood not being structural. I'm just hoping that the plywood he got a deal on is a hardwood plywood, something cabinet grade. It's not that often around here you get some decent deals on regular 3/4" plywood.

I'd also hope that he countersinks the heads as that would look better. I just wanted him to be aware that he should aleast predrill if he got something like birch plywood. It'd be a shame to get a deal on something that nice and end up checking and cracking while just running screws in.

Air_cooled, did you get lucky enough for something like birch plywood (cabinet grade stuff) or is it just regular plywood (pine) ?

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

Just got it. It's CDX, fir, utilitarian grade. The sanded side is puttied but smooth. I'll paint it at some time but my shop is a place of work, not a museum, so it doesn't have to look like living quarters.

I do have horizontal wiring without the safety plates so I'll get those installed before attaching the plywood.

Installing over bare framing. NOT over sheet rock or other paneling.

A few years back my wife got me a laser level so I can line up the studs super-easy.

Pre-drilling does NOT sound like fun. I have a 6-amp drill so I do have lots of power but no impact drill. I do have an air-compressor. I'm trying to keep costs down so why would I want an impact drill? What is better, air or electric (I guess the pros/cons of each)?

Deck screws, square drive, 2.5" is what I'm thinking of right now. I'm a computer programmer, not a carpenter, so I'm not sure what y'all are talking about regarding counter-sunk screws. Is this a very special screw or just the type that has a conical head? Because I do want the heads flush with the surface.

NUTTSGT · Nov 14, 2012

Ah regular CDX, it'll still look great in the garage.

Countersink is merely drilling a hole (best to use a counter sink bit) so the screw head will be flush with the surface of the plywood.

Impact driver, cordless no doubt, once you have one, you'll wonder how you lived without it. Even using a 1/4 or 3/8" drive adapter, you can you it with sockets. If you have a buddy that has one, ask about borrowing it for a day. You'll be buying one. :beer:

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/575161_480528208636587_564727577_n.jpg
Floor detail.

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

NUTTSGT said:
Ah regular CDX, it'll still look great in the garage.

Countersink is merely drilling a hole (best to use a counter sink bit) so the screw head will be flush with the surface of the plywood.

Got it. So I guess I will be pre-drilling.

NUTTSGT said:
Impact driver, cordless no doubt, once you have one, you'll wonder how you lived without it. Even using a 1/4 or 3/8" drive adapter, you can you it with sockets. If you have a buddy that has one, ask about borrowing it for a day. You'll be buying one.

****, you're right, I have used one before and it was REALLY nice to use. Damn.

jerseywild · Nov 14, 2012

DaleK said:
Are you going to paint it? I'd just use 2.5"-3" deck screws.

Your asking for trouble there! :shocking:

DPelletier · Nov 14, 2012

counter sunk screws are the ones with the conical heads.

I disagree that you need to pre-drill. I've done it dozens of times with fir ply and you just don't need to.

an electric drill is fine, preferrably one with a clutch/adj torque but any old drill will work. You don't need an impact drill, that's for drilling concrete or using with impact sockets.

Dave

kbs2244 · Nov 14, 2012

Do yourself a favor and pre-paint it the day before you put it up.
Much easier and faster and it is nicer to work with clean, white stuff.

I would not use a drill. They spin too fast.
Get a screw gun. Lower speed and more torque.

Phillips or square drive is your choice.
Theoretically square is better but there is millions of square feet out the being held up with Phillips with no problems.

More than ¾ inch into the stud is waste of money and effort.
Even if you end up hanging something heavy on the wall the weight will be spread over a bunch of screws.
All those formulas are assuming all the weight on one screw.

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

My drill is variable speed (via the trigger).

kbs2244 · Nov 14, 2012

Then it is up to you.
I never cared for that kind.
My finger isn't sentitive enough to feel the "halfway" point.
I would guess a screwgun would be about $20.00 rent for a day.
Try it, you might like it.

nutjob · Nov 14, 2012

I think this is a good time to make sure we are all talking the same tool

Here is a link for Drills vs Hammer Drills vs Impact Drivers.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/drills-vs-hammer-drills-vs-impact-drivers/

And don't forget Impact Gun - Air tool impact

My 18v Dewalt impact driver changed my life building plywood boxes and just driving wood screws for projects.

Checked out the Spax screws at Home Depot, they are self drilling and self counter sinking.

Kevin

DaleK · Nov 14, 2012

FYI good Canadians know the square drive bits as "Robertson", and all is well in the world

jlckmj · Nov 14, 2012

I would (and have) use a good nail gun with 8 penny ring shank sheeting nails and be done with it! You will be done in 1/4 th time, and it will never pull off, you will ruin a sheet of 3/4 before you pull it off the wall if nailed properly!

Jim

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

nutjob, links don't work.
jlckmj, as I mentioned in my first post, I may want to remove them so no to nails.
DaleK, yup, just discovered that from Wikipedia

Air_Cooled_Nut · Nov 14, 2012

nutjob said:
I think this is a good time to make sure we are all talking the same tool

Here is a link for Drills vs Hammer Drills vs Impact Drivers.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/drills-vs-hammer-drills-vs-impact-drivers/

And don't forget Impact Gun - Air tool impact

My 18v Dewalt impact driver changed my life building plywood boxes and just driving wood screws for projects.

Checked out the Spax screws at Home Depot, they are self drilling and self counter sinking.

Kevin

Thanks! Nice article and thanks for the recommendations. My buddy has the 18V DeWalt and, yes, it made me smile as well.

beerdog · Nov 14, 2012

Nails will work fine

Dick in Wisconsin · Nov 14, 2012

I recently finished putting up slatwall in my garage; particle board covered with Melamine bought at Menards.

Used my Craftsman C3-19.2volt cordless drill with the adjustable torque clutch. Set it at between 12 and 16. The key is the adjustable torque clutch. After a couple of dozen screws you'll have the right torque setting for the 2x4s, the plywood, and the length of your screws.

I bought a box of Phillips head countersunk deck screws. After having more than half the first 12 cam out and wreck the pit ... I went to HD (closer than Menards) and bought a box of Deckmate #8x2" Star Drive Screws and some extra bits. They come in different colors.

I've used the Robertson (square drive) screws on the my enclosed race trailer.

For a more industrial look, consider colored (white?) hex head screws. I used those to fasten the steel poll building siding in the garage as ceiling. Used them to install the seat and "ceiling" in a tall, double casement window bumpout.

I will NEVER, EVER buy another another Phillips head or Robertson head screw unless they are the ONLY alternative. The bits on the Star Drive Screws just don't come out. They stay in solid. It is really, really difficult to round one out. After using a bit for a while and starts to jump out, pitch the bit. Buy a half dozen of them, get the long bits and not the short ones. Once they start to wear, toss them.

Craftsman C3 Cordless drill with adjustable torque clutch and Star Drive Screws. Worked great for me.

Ksullivan · Nov 14, 2012

I use a high low screw, that helps pull the screw into the studs tighter. Good luck!

What screw to use for securing plywood to shop wall?

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