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My haul for the weekend...

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kazlx

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Not too shabby for $1000, it was a good Friday :rocker:

Bridgeport mill, vise, rotary table, shaping head - $250 for it all
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Index mill 55 - $150
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Buffalo No 18 drill press and Reid surface grinder $100 each. The grinder cabinet is full of tooling and wheels. I don't even know how to use one.
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More end mills, reamers, drill bits, taps and random stuff than I know what to do with right now
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The way home. I think my truck was basically riding the bumpstops. I paid $25/box for the full toolboxes, all machinist stuff. There are also some sine plates, micrometers and tons of random stuff I haven't inventoried yet. It took me all day yesterday to sort and organize two of the 4 boxes I bought.
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Hem-hawed on the Hendey and someone else bought it for $250 while I was working out prices on the other stuff. Kicking myself now.
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Vise, looks like my other Athol, but no stampings
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kazlx

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It was literally the world's crappiest CL ad that I responded to. No pics, a basic description that was very vague, but once I got the guy on the phone I knew it would be worth my time. My buddy was looking for a mill so I twisted his arm and made him come with me. I shared the love by letting him at the Index for $150.

There are also misc. milling vises, old c-clamps, two pieces of 1.5 inch thick steel plate I can't even solo lift (and I'm a young guy). There are brand new 1"+ end mills. I'm going to try to inventory the rest this week.

Apparently, the guy was a tool and die maker for 30+ years, closed his shop when he retired and brought the 'smaller' stuff home. He just died a couple weeks ago and his sons needed the place cleaned out.

Too add to the oddness, it turns out I graduated high school with his granddaughter...
 
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kazlx

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I'm hiring a rigger for everything. A flat price for all the stuff to my garage and the index mill to my buddies place. Still need to set a date, since the seller needs to move a motor home that has been sitting before we can get everything out.
 
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bigcaddy

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Well i hope you enjoy your free tools!!! If those Kennedy boxes are full of machinist tools like you say, you could sell of one of those boxes and recoup a lot of your initial investment. I've bought/sorted/sold a number of Kennedys & Gerstners and they are usually full of duplicate tools.

Thats a killer haul and you should be able to profit nicely from the whole deal either in tools or cash.
 
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d.mcfarland

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That's pure awesome. Even if I didn't have the money I would take out a payday loan at whatever percent just to get those home.
 
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Bull

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Man, if that old shop could talk. Looks like an awesome vintage space.

I don't know my *** from my elbow on those kinds of machines, but I know that the prices you paid are insane.
 
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goodspeed

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Oh my god.

I've been looking for a mill I could afford forever. I'm incredibly jealous.

Is that toolbox wooden like a Gerstner? If you'd consider selling it and I could afford it on my retardedly small budget, I'd love to have a wooden box for my drafting stuff.
 
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kazlx

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I'm not an box expert or anything, but I think the two wooden boxes I got are Gerstners. The metal one is a Kennedy. They are both in pretty rough shape though. Not sure what they would be worth if much at all.

Almost everything in this shop is made in the good ol USA...only a few imports, mostly measuring stuff...

The Crescent wrench is a 15"
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Box of large end mills 1"+, and to the right a box of misc boring bars/tools.
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One of my favorite things I found. Huge JH Williams C-Clamps.
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Misc drill bit indexes
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Couple loose micrometers.
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Evaporust seems to work pretty well. This clamp was covered in rust. I have a bunch of stuff sitting in the first gallon I bought. Some stuff cleans up quick...other stuff seems to take overnight.
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It's been a chore just getting stuff grouped together.
 
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KF5LCH

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What I wouldn't give to root around in that old shop for a couple of hours. :drool:

VERY nice haul to say the least. :rocker:
 
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Ric in Richmond

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WOW..that truly is a score.

Those are definitely gerstners, though they certainly have some "patina"....

When I got my old gerstner (filled with tools as usual) the original sales literature was inside under the drawers.

It said to clean it with gasoline....and no warnings about not smoking while doing so. AMazing how common common sense was back then.

Somehow I don't think that would fly in this day and age.

Can't wait to see what you really ended up with after you get it sorted.

Congrats!!
 
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Mickey O

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nice-haul.jpg





Few points off for not getting the Hendey lathe, you hem & haw about how much you paid for it after you bought it.







.
 
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Kevin54

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Good God man....That is MAJOR SUCKAGE topped off with some more SUCKAGE!!!!!! That is the score of the year!!!!

BTW...Did I mention that YOU ****!!!!!!!! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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Kevin54

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The three soldering irons on the left.....those are the style that goes with the brass blowtorches that people collect. If you decide to get rid of them, let me know. If you decide to get rid of anything let me know.

Antique-Blowtorch-1920-Good.jpg
 
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Kevin54

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0B6C1954-E283-48D6-A3E3-F761F7800A47-2007-0000028199C0C1EA.jpg


Upper left in the truck bed, you have a sine bar, sine plate, and a cylindrical square. Clean them up and coat them with some WD-40 so they don't rust any more. If they are not rusted and pitted too bad, you can clean them up with some 1500 grit sandpaper and a flat surface. Tape the 1500 paper down and rub the parts across it just enough to remove the rust. If they are pitted, they would need to be reground by someone that knows what they are doing. The cylindrical square comes in handy for tramming a mill in. The top and bottom are ground square to the sides. Again some 1500 paper and a lathe will make that look like new.

If you're close to Ohio, I'll take the surface grinder off of your hands.
 
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kazlx

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The sine stuff isn't corroded at all and I will hopefully be putting it to use. Never heard of a cylindrical square before, I will have to do some google investigating. The other stack to the right of the cylinder is a smaller sine plate and some parallels, I believe. There are two Criterion boring heads, smaller one and a bigger one. There's a Procunier tapping head that I'm stoked on, although I can't find any collets for it. I still get to go back and go through what's left when I have the rigger pick up all the machines.

It's definitely a good way to get started with machining. I've had my lathe for a while and have really wanted a mill. I don't even know how to use a surface grinder, but I'll figure it out eventually.
 
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goodspeed

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I'd still be interested in one (or both) of the gerstners if you'd be up for shipping them. Shoot me a pm if you're interested. I've wanted one since the first time I saw one, so I'd be willing to put in the time of fixing them up.
 
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Kevin54

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kazlx said:
The sine stuff isn't corroded at all and I will hopefully be putting it to use. Never heard of a cylindrical square before, I will have to do some google investigating. The other stack to the right of the cylinder is a smaller sine plate and some parallels, I believe. There are two Criterion boring heads, smaller one and a bigger one. There's a Procunier tapping head that I'm stoked on, although I can't find any collets for it. I still get to go back and go through what's left when I have the rigger pick up all the machines.

It's definitely a good way to get started with machining. I've had my lathe for a while and have really wanted a mill. I don't even know how to use a surface grinder, but I'll figure it out eventually.
Click to expand...

A cylindrical square is probably one of the most accurate squares there is. This is due to all of the surfaces being ground without changing setups. I've used one many times to tram in the head of a mill. Also when I made my first angle plate, I used the CS to check how my grinding turned out. I could "blue up" the cylindrical square and put it agains the face of my angle plate to see if it was square or not, then go back to grinding with shims accordingly. It's a very useful square. You may not use it as much as any other square, but it is invaluable when you do find that need for it.
 
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kazlx

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Hmmm...good to know. How is it used to tram the mill, run a dti around the top or outside?

There's also a giant piece of plate that I thought was just plate with holes drilled in it, but then I noticed it has bar on both ends, like a giant sine plate. It's over 1" thick and probably about 2ft square. I can barely lift it. Probably 200+ lbs.
 
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Kevin54

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kazlx said:
Hmmm...good to know. How is it used to tram the mill, run a dti around the top or outside?

There's also a giant piece of plate that I thought was just plate with holes drilled in it, but then I noticed it has bar on both ends, like a giant sine plate. It's over 1" thick and probably about 2ft square. I can barely lift it. Probably 200+ lbs.
Click to expand...

You set the cylindrical square on the table and run the indicator up and down the side, then turn the indicator 90 degrees and run the indicator up and down that side. I also use one by setting the square on the vise where your piece of work sets, but without clamping it tight.

Normally, one would tram the head directly off of the table. I do that if I have a flat ground plate. I've watched others tram a head and when the indicator hits one of the table slots, they will try to either move the spindle around and hope the radius on the edge of the groove lets the point go by, or they will take their finger and lift the point of the indicator to get it to the other side of the slot. Then when they make a piece of tooling, they wonder why things don't go together right. Before I retired, I had a 12" square plate, 1/2" thick that was ground on both sides and perfectly flat. I would set that on the table and tram the head. This way, there was no interruption of the needle of the indicator. If I had a job that was super critical, I would tram off of the rails of the vise by setting up two gage blocks, or two 1-2-3 blocks and set the tram plate on top of those. Reason being is that even though the head may be perfectly trammed into the table, once a vise is introduced into the equation, things could be off. One would have to know that the vise was perfectly flat to the table. One small chip could mean all the difference in things going together or not. At work, we each had our own mill that we ran. Even though Kurt Vises are about the Cadillac of machine vises, I would regrind mine so I knew what I had. It goes a long ways in knowing how your items are in relationship to setups. I had coworkers that would tram their mill in AFTER they spent two weeks making tooling, only to have it go in the scrap barrel because they didn't pay attention to a setup, or checked things out BEFORE they started making multi piece components.
 
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