To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Installing outside light on rib of siding

TXShelbyman

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
7
I bought some gooseneck lights to put on the outside of my shop. We I went to install them I found that the rib of the metal siding was right in the center of the door opening. Do they make some kind of riser to cover the rib and give me a flat surface to mount the lamp? Does anyone have any ideas how to mount the lamp over the rib? Thanks!

gtop2.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

GShelton

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2006
Messages
252
Location
N. Central Florida
I just ran a galvanized ****** from a box inside to the box outside and sealed the hole. The box is technically mounted to the rib.

Let me know if I don't make sense and I will try to explain better.
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
If the off set is that important to you some table saw work with wood filler pieces should not be that hard.
Not all install possibilities can be foreseen by the mfg.
That is why guys make a living doing “custom” work.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Ray916MN

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
1,066
Location
Orono, MN
I made a mounting block out of pressure treated wood by cutting a "V" slot in the wood. Painted it to match the siding, and slathered it with silicone caulking before screwing it to the siding. Took a bit of experimenting to get the angles for the slot right, but it worked well.

I could not find mounting blocks for ribbed metal siding.
 

tornadocaster

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2012
Messages
278
Location
Edmonton, AB. Canada
8eae45aab0c199358d96ebe362e11003.jpg

This is what we use in the vinyl siding industry. The only problem is it has to be installed before the siding. Some of the new ones are 3 part so you attach the flange first then the built in electrical box then put your siding then snap the cover over.
What i do and prefer is using a pvc light box like this with no mounting flanges. I just screw thru the back on the inside of the box then the fixture hides it all.
a8eade76e8b366d77257528fc298389f.jpg

The good thing about the cladding you have is you can easily unscrew the panel enough to peel it back to do any of this work.
You can either trace and cut with left or right snips and get a fairly clean hole.
If you want to insure there is no infiltration of water find a color match caulking made for your cladding or metal roofing and seal around the gaps.
Good luck
Gio
 

Highbeam

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
2,292
Location
Mt Rainier foothills, WA
I had a similar problem. I ended up mounting the light to the soffit to avoid the metal all together. I'm not sure what you mean by "gooseneck" lights but the normal flood light type fixtures can be aimed and putting the fixture up near the eave protects it from rain.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I've also seen the batten cut and the cover mounted directly to the surface of the boards. It works well either way. The box should be flush with the surface and a gasket used whether you're mounting to the raised blocks or to the boards.

But, a threaded goose-neck pipe would install to either a weathertight box surface mounted, flush mounted backwards or mounted on the inside within reach.

I think I prefer the latter for strength.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom