Wood Ripping Advice

Ferrino · Dec 6, 2012

I'm planning to build some garage storage cabinets from 8'x4' sheets of 3/4" wood (MDF or plywood). I'm fairly new to woodwork and have thus far used my circular saw with whatever straight-edge is lying around to use as a guide (clamped to the work-piece with g-clamps).

1. I was planning to buy this Kreg contraption to help get straight cuts and avoid the whole clamping procedure. Are there any other (affordable) guides I should consider?

2. What I was wondering is what the best way to hold the large sheet is, while I cut? Is it OK to simply lay a bunch of 2x4s on the garage floor and then cut a few inches off the floor? Is this frowned upon, or is it merely considered uncomfortable? Like I said, I'm new to this, but my intuition tells me it's valuable to have some weight on the workpiece, to stop it potentially sliding around.

Thanks for any tips!

rkevins · Dec 6, 2012

http://www.lowes.com/pd_119887-1099-CG100_0__?productId=1006469&Ntt=straight+edge&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dstraight%2Bedge&facetInfo=
I have one of these from Lowes it is real easy o use. As far as cutting the way you described as long as it works for you just support it good I would probley use a 2x4 at the edges and also near the cut I would rather have it up on sawhorses but I have 2 or 3 sets around all the time. If im not mistaken mdf astually measures 1" wider and 1" longer so remember that when you make your cuts.

fury9 · Dec 6, 2012

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...s/50-straight-edge-clamp/p-1684353-c-9135.htm They have bigger ones and smaller ones also. Get yourself some saw horses- http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h.../folding-steel-sawhorse/p-1460944-c-10164.htm scre on some 5' 2x4s to the top of them and screw a sheet of plywood to the 2x4s and you have a descent cheap work table that can be easily taken apart. Set your saw depth and have a good blade in it go steady and you should be fine. Clamp smaller pieces to keep them from moving.

Toolfool · Dec 6, 2012

My advice would be to build out of 1/2" birch plywood. Easier to finish and lighter to work with and install. Just a better grade of material. Once you add a 3/4" x 1-1/2" face frame, the boxes will be srong enough to hold whatever you load in. The plywood has some weight of it's own laying flat (across saw horses or 2x4's on the floor). Just be sure to adjust your saw blade depth to cut only slightly deeper than the thickness of the plywood. If you don't have access to a table saw, here's a link http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html to make a ripping tool. I use this in an 8' and 4' length. We used to call them "door boards" because it's the easiest way to cut the bottom off of a door. The edge of the board lines up right on your marks, no measuring back for the width of your saw plate. Works like a charm.

Here's another http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issues/185/circular-saw-cutting-guides.pdf

V-10 Killer · Dec 6, 2012

You can always go to your local metals supply and get a 10' length of 1"x1" - 1/8" thick aluminum tubing thats nice and straight. Keep it around for the long cuts, but make sure it's protected from being dropped or banged around when not in use.

theoldwizard1 · Dec 6, 2012

Pay the guys at HD or Lowes to rip them for you. Despite what the signs say, they can make cuts to withing an 1/8" of what you requested.

Voi · Dec 6, 2012

I like Kreg products and own a few of them but haven't used the one you linked to. In general I'm not a fan of guides that reference the side of a panel, although that is a quicker way to make repetitive cuts.

I do like the home made saw guides that have a sheet of masonite or similar product attached to a jointed hard wood guide. The advantage of this is that edge of the masonite is your cut line. The masonite also protects the panel from the base of the saw.

There are many tutorials online for these. Below is one I found through a quick google search.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how...make-a-saw-guide-for-faster-cleaner-cuts.aspx

Some people make a few of these and even put a cross piece on the shorter ones that squares up the guide. I never did that but did like to have a few different sizes. I mostly used one around 54" and did mostly cross cuts on panels. For ripping you'd need one over 8' but then that's a bit awkward for cross cuts.

Just be aware that if you change blades and the kerf is different your cut line will no longer match up.

One of the best tips I ever read was to cut up panels on a piece of 2" thick extruded polystyrene foam. This can be set on saw horses or done on the ground.

djjsr · Dec 6, 2012

Just thought you might want to see a couple of cabinets I made from 3/4" plywood. I used birch or oak, whatever I can get the best price on. I like shallow cabinets, about 8" deep, so I don't have to look behind stuff and they don't stick out too far.

The last one I made, my goal was to use 1 sheet of plywood and try to keep the total cost with doors and hardware around $100. It's 48" wide x 80" tall and holds a lot of stuff. I've also built 3 others, 2 bigger and 1 smaller but my "single sheet" cabinet is the best bang for the buck.

(the cabinet is straight but my camera takes crooked pictures)

View media item 16208
This one is 60" wide, built the same way.
View media item 5469
View media item 5470
View media item 5471

shoot summ · Dec 6, 2012

theoldwizard1 said:
Pay the guys at HD or Lowes to rip them for you. Despite what the signs say, they can make cuts to withing an 1/8" of what you requested.

This, I have a table saw, and generally do all of my sheet good cuts at the box stores, just watch them, they are typically pretty good about letting you manage the cuts.

McFarmer · Dec 6, 2012

Very nice job on the cabinets.

805gregg · Dec 6, 2012

Buy a Skill Mag 7-1/2" saw and learn to saw a straight line, all that other **** is for amateurs, learn to be a pro.

McFarmer · Dec 6, 2012

805gregg said:
Buy a Skill Mag 7-1/2" saw and learn to saw a straight line, all that other **** is for amateurs, learn to be a pro.

I find it takes less time to clamp a straight edge on than draw a line. Heck, you gotta use a straight edge to draw the line, why not clamp it on and use it ? I guess it depends on how the cut will be used.

ford33 · Dec 6, 2012

When you buy the 4x8 sheet of wood also buy a 4x8 piece of foam board. Some people use the blue foam others use white styrofoam. Buy a 2 inch thick piece or so. Lay the foam on the floor and the wood panel on top of the foam. Set your circular saw cutting depth to the wood thickness plus a little more. Cutting is easy now since the wood is well supported and the saw easily cuts through the foam.
No damage to saw blade and you can kneel on the panel as you cut it.

Toss out the foam when you are done.

theoldwizard1 · Dec 7, 2012

Toolfool said:
My advice would be to build out of 1/2" birch plywood. Easier to finish and lighter to work with and install. Just a better grade of material. Once you add a 3/4" x 1-1/2" face frame, the boxes will be strong enough to hold whatever you load in.

Yes, that is a good method and it looks nice too!

How do you suggest connecting the face frames joints as well as connecting the frame to the carcass ?

RV Smoot · Dec 7, 2012

Kreg pocket screws and wood glue. Quick, strong and easy.

Ferrino · Dec 7, 2012

Thanks for all the advice. I'm aware that you can have sheets cut for free at HD, but I've found that the accuracy of the cut is largely dependent on the operator - I've had some pretty bad variation before, which is not what I want with cabinets. For me, it's just a service to help you transport the materials if you don't have a truck.

Regarding the cabinet construction, I was going to go with 3/4" sheets of MDF or white melamine for the doors/sides/shelves - all pocket-holed and glued together. For the back of the cabinets, I was just going to place a few horizontal bands of 3/4" to give some rigidity and allow the cabinet to be lag-screwed into the wooden studs of the garage. I know plywood is preferred, but I love the fact that melamine doesn't need to be finished/painted (other than that tape stuff you glue to the edges). Thoughts?

koditten · Dec 7, 2012

V-10 Killer said:
You can always go to your local metals supply and get a 10' length of 1"x1" - 1/8" thick aluminum tubing thats nice and straight. Keep it around for the long cuts, but make sure it's protected from being dropped or banged around when not in use.

Good idea Paul, but you know I'm a metal worker and even I have to lean towards the wood, homemade jig.

KO

koditten · Dec 7, 2012

I've used table saws and skill saws. I still like the wood straight edge with a skill saw the best.

KO

racingtadpole · Dec 7, 2012

If you use melamine coated boards, put masking tape over where you intend to cut to help reduce the chipping on the edges.

Fudge · Dec 7, 2012

McFarmer said:
I find it takes less time to clamp a straight edge on than draw a line. Heck, you gotta use a straight edge to draw the line, why not clamp it on and use it ? I guess it depends on how the cut will be used.

Thats what a chalk box is for. No straight edge needed. I once got a job because I could cut a straight line with a Skil saw. I dought its a skill that will save your life but cutting up sheets of plywood with a straight edge sounds like a PITA to me.

rharman · Dec 8, 2012

Preferably a table saw but, if using a circular saw....

For long (rip) cuts, I'll use something similar to the 8' straightedge below. Bought it years ago. Sometimes wants to flex a bit in the middle so I back it up with a 1x2 (tee'd in to it in the center).

For crosscuts, I'll use a clamp like the TruGrip or Bora. They make them from 24" to 100". The Bora's can swivel if you need to make an angle cut.

I use sawhorses and a roller stand if necesssary for more support.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_119887-1099...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=straight+edge&facetInfo=

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224DM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5914&site=ROCKLER

Jack Burton · Dec 8, 2012

Fudge said:
Thats what a chalk box is for. No straight edge needed. I once got a job because I could cut a straight line with a Skil saw. I dought its a skill that will save your life but cutting up sheets of plywood with a straight edge sounds like a PITA to me.

That works too.....as long as you carry a jack and jointer plane along with the chalk box :lol:

.

Katsin · Dec 15, 2012

If you lap two wooden straight edges you can get a nice jig that will show you exactly where your circular saw will cut without worrying about the circular saw offset.

Fine woodworking shows that jig in the first workbench video here:
http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting-started/season-two

4EyedTurd · Dec 16, 2012

djjsr said:
View media item 5471

What did you use to do your shelves like that?

sxk122 · Dec 16, 2012

Stacked Dado?

Motofixxer · Dec 16, 2012

racingtadpole said:
If you use melamine coated boards, put masking tape over where you intend to cut to help reduce the chipping on the edges.

And a sharp higher tooth count blade.

Titanium Frost · Dec 16, 2012

Toolfool said:
If you don't have access to a table saw, here's a link http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html to make a ripping tool. I use this in an 8' and 4' length. We used to call them "door boards" because it's the easiest way to cut the bottom off of a door. The edge of the board lines up right on your marks, no measuring back for the width of your saw plate. Works like a charm.

Here's another http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issues/185/circular-saw-cutting-guides.pdf

+1 for the saw guide. I have a table saw and still built one of these as maneuvering a full 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply through a table saw by myself was too dangerous imho. if you have a lot of sheets to cut, take the time to make the jig. Less chance of a mistake because instead of lining a straight edge up with the edge of your saw plate, you are lining the jig up with your actual cut line.

djjsr · Dec 16, 2012

4EyedTurd said:
What did you use to do your shelves like that?

Just a router and a 3/4" straight bit set to cut 1/4" deep.

The router has a 6" diameter base, so I mark where I want the center of the slot, measure over 3" and clamp a wooden square that I made. Run the edge of the router base against the square and you're done.

I also have a sled for my router table but it takes too long to set up and the end result is the same.

Note - I've found that some 3/4" cabinet plywood is not quite 3/4". Just measure before you buy if this dimension is important.

csp · Dec 16, 2012

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is if you use a circular saw, be sure that the blade is perpendicular to the shoe. I had one that was slightly off and when gluing up some cabinets the joint didn't want to stay square.

4EyedTurd · Dec 20, 2012

djjsr said:
Just a router and a 3/4" straight bit set to cut 1/4" deep.

The router has a 6" diameter base, so I mark where I want the center of the slot, measure over 3" and clamp a wooden square that I made. Run the edge of the router base against the square and you're done.

I also have a sled for my router table but it takes too long to set up and the end result is the same.

Note - I've found that some 3/4" cabinet plywood is not quite 3/4". Just measure before you buy if this dimension is important.

Thanks, I guess I was over thinking it. Is there any forums for woodworkers out there?

racingtadpole · Dec 20, 2012

4EyedTurd said:
Thanks, I guess I was over thinking it. Is there any forums for woodworkers out there?

http://www.woodworkforums.com/forum.php?

Australian woodworking forum, pretty friendly and there are quite a few Americans there too. Lots of very skilled people willing to help.

kb2tha · Dec 20, 2012

805gregg said:
Buy a Skill Mag 7-1/2" saw and learn to saw a straight line, all that other **** is for amateurs, learn to be a pro.

Yet, my guess is that given the opportunity to use a Festool with their saw guide, you would be hooked on it. :dunno:

Especially good for finished plywoods, which is what is being discussed here.

rharman · Dec 20, 2012

djjsr said:
Just a router and a 3/4" straight bit set to cut 1/4" deep.

The router has a 6" diameter base, so I mark where I want the center of the slot, measure over 3" and clamp a wooden square that I made. Run the edge of the router base against the square and you're done.

I also have a sled for my router table but it takes too long to set up and the end result is the same.

Note - I've found that some 3/4" cabinet plywood is not quite 3/4". Just measure before you buy if this dimension is important.

All plywood is now "undersized". They make router bits specifically for this. Try Rockler or WoodCraft.

mbatarga · Dec 20, 2012

djjsr said:
Note - I've found that some 3/4" cabinet plywood is not quite 3/4". Just measure before you buy if this dimension is important.

23/32" router bits exist exactly for this purpose - as that is the "actual" size of 3/4" plywood.

dmeadow · Dec 21, 2012

Great thread, guys, many thanks to all of you. :rocker:

I was struggling with this same problem in building a couple of workbenches. I'm a car hobbyist, not a wood working hobbyist! :3gears:

My woodworking tools are rather limited.

Hope this isn't too far OT:
I understand using the finer blade and masking tape when cutting melamine. Seems I also read where you should cut 3/4 through on one side (not sure which side first) then turn it over and, not changing the depth on the skilsaw, cut from the other side to finish the cut. Supposedly this would also reduce chipping. Does this make sense?

Toolfool · Dec 21, 2012

Cut 3/4 of the way through melamine and it will most likely break as you turn it over. There's no grain in particle board. Then you have the task of aligning your cuts dead-on.

Zeke · Dec 21, 2012

I cut 80% of my wood freehand with a wormdrive because I'm lazy. That includes the bottom of doors. Ease the cut edge with a block plane and the cuts look pretty good for most work.

But I don't build cabinets that way. I don't care how good any of us are with the saw, if you want a good tight glue joint, you have to use a guide or a table saw. You're gonna want to cut rabbets somewhere on a cabinet job and that ain't easy with a guide and probably impossible freehand. I wouldn't want to cut rabbets with a saw mounted guide, but I have in a pinch.

So, yeah, I have 4' and an 8' models and the longer one is a system that has multiple feet for routers, etc. Pretty cool really for a one man operation because full sheets of melamine are a ***** to handle alone on a TS.

Motofixxer · Dec 24, 2012

I wouldn't recommend trying to cut from both sides. The sharp high tooth carbide blade should work fine. The other option you have is do a rough cut 1/8" longer than needed then use a router with a straight bit and a straight edge for the final cut taking off the last 1/8th. I have never had luck with using a router to actually cut. The bits always seem to get too hot. The biggest factor is a sharp blade. The finish side of cut is on bottom of piece for a circular saw or top for a tablesaw.

The other option that works for cutting plywood etc is scoring the woodgrain then cut. Tends to minimize chipping.

shoturtle · Dec 24, 2012

A straight piece of metal or wood and clamps is the best way to cut larger sheet of wood. Always a straight line. Tried those other system. If the edge of the wood you are using for a guild is slightly off, you cut will be off. That menards clamp is okay, but it has a little play, so you actually have to be careful to make sure it is install on perfectly straight.

Also get the highest tooth count blade you can find. It helps with a cleaner cut.

racingtadpole · Dec 24, 2012

dmeadow said:
Great thread, guys, many thanks to all of you. I was struggling with this same problem in building a couple of workbenches. I'm a car hobbyist, not a wood working hobbyist! My woodworking tools are rather limited.

Hope this isn't too far OT:
I understand using the finer blade and masking tape when cutting melamine. Seems I also read where you should cut 3/4 through on one side (not sure which side first) then turn it over and, not changing the depth on the skilsaw, cut from the other side to finish the cut. Supposedly this would also reduce chipping. Does this make sense?

Cutting part way through and then turning it and cutting it from the other side will make things worse.
The best way to avoid chipping Melamine (or any laminate for that matter) is to have the cutting action pushing the laminate against the parent substrate. If you cut part way through on both sides the rotation of the blade will be pulling the laminate away from the substrate on both cuts. If you cut from one side only the rotation of the blade pushes the laminate against the substrate on the underside and pulls it away on the top side. The cut on the underside is usually a lot cleaner than the cut edge on the topside. Plan your cuts so that the underside cut is the visible edge when assembled.

You can use a router to remove the laminate from the cut line before cutting but its very fiddly and requires a lot of accuracy. The results are very neat though.

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