How would you build your Generator Shed

mobiledynamics · Dec 16, 2012

Post Sandy has got me rethinking/redoing alot of things.

Next Up for the Spring/Summer Project is as *compact* as possible generator shed.

The overall concept will have a 10 or 12" Shutter Fan pulling hot air out.
Not sure how sealed I am making it. I thinking there will be a 1" gap where the eve is to allow air to flow in.
Second, I will be of teak or cedar board/batten style construction on the walls. I may just go straight planks leaving a hair gap between each plank to allow the box to breath.

What do you guys think. Leave 1/2-3/4 space between the planks for the floor to promote air or just **** them tight.

I see alot of DIY genset housings where they insulate the interior. Aside from cold winter operation of such, I can't see any other reasning to do it *for my application, I only expect it to be in use in summer or fall months)

nehog · Dec 16, 2012

Cement slab, not wood. If you cannot do cement, but them tight, with a vapor barrier unless you can raise the floor six inches off the ground and can keep all four sides clear of weeds and growth. Otherwise you'll get more moisture then you would loose.

camarotoolman · Dec 16, 2012

Some kind or concrete base to get it up of the ground, maybe c-blocks and then a pt deck.

mobiledynamics · Dec 16, 2012

I was planning on 4x4 on the sides and middle, and then deck

theoldwizard1 · Dec 16, 2012

Did you get flooding in your area ? If yes, you need a platform that will put the generator ABOVE that level. 4x4 PT posts in the corners and 2x4 PT boards for the floor.

I would line the inside with at least 2" of aluminum faced XPS. 4" would be better. You will probably need a metal plate inside to be used as a heat shield directly opposite the exhaust. The plate needs to be spaced about 2" off of the XPS.

This is my theory. Heat rises so don't bother to insulate the roof. Install gable vents on the ends. If you are building a raised platform, leave about a 1" gap between each board to allow air in. If you are building on a slab, leave about a 2" gap all the way around the bottom for air.

The foam in the walls will contain the noise. What noise goes out the top and bottom will not carry because it is directed up or down.

mobiledynamics · Dec 16, 2012

I did not get flooding - but I am literally a 5 minute walk away from the water .......

Ha. I never would think the foam was used for noise. I would think it was more to keep the heat in during winter ...for proper operation.

I've always treated noise when building indoors as - staggared studs, and MASS. Can't see how that foam is used for noise purposes. Gotta google that now.

brownbagg · Dec 16, 2012

concrete slab, cmu bock filled with rebar and concrete with a concrete slab for roof, if i need the generator, there a hurricane outside and last thing i need is generator blown away

Lippyp · Dec 17, 2012

Would you vent the exhaust to the outside and also pull fresh air in from a direct connection to outside to the carb/inlet?

bob15 · Dec 17, 2012

Putting it on a concrete pad is a given.

Check with the manufacturer, but most want 3-5 feet from a building for service. Adding walls will make service a pain. Not sure where you live, but summers can be hot in New England and if the generator is boxed in with wood, it might get too hot. Remember, these companies that sell them with housings have tested them to find the a happy medium between enclosure size and engine performance. A one inch gap at the eve might not be enough, even with a fan pulling air. The incoming air might also miss the engine due to being too high and not really cool it enough. If the fans fails, you could burn up the generator.....

Why not just put it on a concrete pad, make a 4 post roof and just put lattice around it. Plenty of air and cooling and also allows for easier access if needed to repairs and maintenance. If you really need or want a wall I would go with a shadow box style, this will allow for plenty of air circulation and no need for a fan. Or air intake or exhaust modification for that matter.

bob

nehog · Dec 17, 2012

Lippyp said:
Would you vent the exhaust to the outside and also pull fresh air in from a direct connection to outside to the carb/inlet?

First, I'd choose a generator that was designed for this purpose. That makes some things easier (it will have an exhaust that is easy to connect to for example.) You will need at least two vents (probably about 2x3), on opposite walls, and probably a fan to extract hot air when the generator is running. If it is a water cooled generator, you can often duct the radiator vent to the outside and have smaller wall vents.

Vegaman_Dan · Dec 17, 2012

Another consideration is to make a combination shed to house both your genset AND your compressor. If you're building something to help isolate the noise, then might as well do it for both in one shot.

Fast Orange · Dec 17, 2012

Good answers to your questions are going to require more information-
Just what kind of generator are you housing? A 5 or 7.5 KW portable with a gas tank will require a different layout than say a 20 KW on Natgas that's hardwired into the house...

How would you build your Generator Shed

mobiledynamics

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nehog

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camarotoolman

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mobiledynamics

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theoldwizard1

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mobiledynamics

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brownbagg

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Lippyp

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bob15

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nehog

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Vegaman_Dan

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Fast Orange

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