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Symmetrical VS Asymmetrical 2 post lifts???

The Boss

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Dec 9, 2012
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Connecticut
What are the arguments for/against one or the other. I'm building my new shop and will have a 16'x46' work bay where I will want to mount my lift at the far end from the door. I'll only be pulling vehicles in from one direction but one of them that I would like to be able to put on it is my F-350 Super Crew LWB truck. Most of the time A&F body GM cars will be on it however.

Why the two different designs, what are the considerations in making a decision for one or the other? For those of you who have used both - which did you like better and for what reasons?

If this has been done before - please point me in the right direction for the thread. I searched but didn't find one specific to this question.

Thanks GJ
 
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NHBandit

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Jan 11, 2012
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East Tennessee
Having used symmetrical 2 post lifts for many years working for other people I am watching the answers you get to this question myself. Getting ready to build my garage and once it's finished I'll be shopping for a lift. My biggest complaint with the symmetrical lifts I've used in the past is not being able to open doors very far. That makes it a ***** to get in and out of the cars and impossible to do any work that requires the doors being open.
 

myslow2002gt

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Knoxville, TN
Having used both, I chose a wide model symmetrical lift. The wide model gives you extra door clearance and I feel more comfortable with full size trucks on them.
 

rbonitz

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I just swapped out a (symettric) MaxJax for a Asymettric Mohawk (A7) - Both are pretty narrow - but that's what I need to fit my shop. - But with the symettric, I was barely able to get out of the doors of my 1961 Chevy truck - With the Mohawk, even though it is a tight fit between the columns, the doors open fine. For a narrow foot print, I found Asymettric is the way to go.
 

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ScaldedDog

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Since you're building a new place, have you considered an in-ground lift? The whole post issue just disappears...

Mark

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OP
T

The Boss

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Since you're building a new place, have you considered an in-ground lift? The whole post issue just disappears...

Mark

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

It's hard to take those with you or to sell them if you move. Probably more expensive in the long run once you consider installation too.
 

volaredon

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IL
the main thing about the 2 different styles is the Assymetric puts the powertrain closer to the uprights... with a typical RWD vehicle, the drivetrain is more spread out motor up front trans roughly in the middle then the driveshaft and rearend with a FWD the motor and trans are all over the front axle and the back of the car is much lighter; the center of gravity is much further forward than in a FWD so the assymetric design "centers" their weight better. though when working on the back of a RWD especially like a pickup truck, whether doing brakes or rearend work or suspension work on one, the back end of the vehicle seems so much more bouncey than on a symmetric one. the extra length of the vehicle hanging behind the posts is an awful long "lever"
I have worked off of both designs; and since this is for MY home garage working mainly on my own stuff (I have never owned a FWD anything, but have had too many pickups and SUVs to count, and I do not see that ending anytime soon, I happen to be eyeing another cherokee XJ as we speak) I vote symmetrical; which is what I bought; though the deal that happened to come up at the time dictated alot of that; if my lift would have been assymetric for the same price I still woulda bought it, as I practically stole my lift for the price that I paid

Another strike against an assymetric; I remember having trouble "racking" the shorter wheelbase vehicles on some of those lifts; even on my Wrangler on some assy. style the lift pads would hit the back tires instead of swinging under; I had to pull like halfway on, get out, swing the arms under then either push it forward or get in and drive the rest of the way onto the lift. alot of today's cars are quite small compared to what I grew up with... so that could turn into a pain if you own smallish cars.

one more thing... I like A&F body cars too; but different brand... My F bodies have been Aspens and Volares. and the A bodies are the real Dodge Darts and Plymouth Dusters, unlike the new rendition of a "Dart" they are trying to pass off now a days and actually, I currently have a Volare that is completely apart in a rotisserie... it won't be gettin' its Slant Six put back in either, LOL

I need to get my buddy's Intrepid outta here, so i can have my garage space back so i can get my lift set up and get the Volare back on its wheels again.....

BTW what is an A body GM?
 

blk00ss

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Dec 22, 2011
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165
Well I have a asymetric lift and its nice being able to open the doors up while on the lift. I've had my quad cab cummins on it as well. I do want some jack stands to help stabilize heavier trucks.
 

shampoop

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SW Washington
asymmetrical just to be able to open the doors. Such a pain in the ***. I could only imagine how much worse it would be trying to exit the car if I were old and/or overweight. Many bigger guys simply can't get out of the car once parked in a symmetrical lift. They have to park a few feet back then push it in the rest of the way.
 

62rat

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May 30, 2012
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on a farm
I labored over this question myself. I ended up getting a Dannmar 10CX, wide symmetric. I also have a diesel pickup and that influenced the decision.

Another consideration was that I wanted the power unit next to the wall. With a symmetric you can mount it on either side. An asymmetric, installed where I wanted it, would have forced me to back into the lift for that.

I'm happy with what I have and would do it again.
 
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The Boss

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Connecticut
So consensus is that a symmetric with a total width of 145" would be the suggested route?

That would still leave me 2' of space on both sides to walk around the posts.
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
Anyone have the Challenger Versymmetric? Thoughts?

I have a Challenger 1997 vintage, model 39000 versymmetric. It is rather narrow and I think newer ones are wider. It is 130 inches on the outside and 109 inches on the inside, and has only one telescoping section in the arms. Newer ones are wider such as the CL10 at 138 to 143 inches on the outside and a drive thru width of 100 to 105 inches

I always try to center the weight of the car on the columns. I just don't trust the floor anchors that much. This means FWD sits a little further aft than does a RWD. Its not a problem IF I have to get out and pull it up by hand, cars on a smooth flat floor roll easy, and I keep a couple of chocks to kick under a front tire to hold it in place after I push/pull it into place. I haven't had many cars/trucks on the lift, and actually had no real problems getting out of any of them yet but I usually tweak the position some before lifting.

I've lifted my '99 Plymouth Breeze (now sold) my '91 Ranger short bed, my '67 Falcon 4 dr, and my '04 Pontiac Vibe. I've also had a '00 VW Beetle on it that I change oil on occasionally and a co-workers '04 Dodge 3500 4 dr Cummings (he had to climb over into the back seat and get out a back door on that one, and we had to fold the mirrors to get it in the 10 ft door, let alone into the lift. (it might have made the door, but it was close, and we knew they would need to fold to go on the lift.

Charles

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hoist_guy

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Dec 29, 2012
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You're lifting a lot of weight with f350, so you're going to require a 12,000lbs capacity. You can't get 12k's in a true asymmetric configuration. Personally, i would recommend a Rotary SPO12.
 
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Ironhorse

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Sep 17, 2012
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I have a CL10V3-2 Challenger that was bought due to the versatility of lifting either way. A FWD Honda or my F-250 are not a challenge with this lift.

If you are looking at buying new and can stand the cost, they are a great lift with a great reputation in professional circles.

I bought two of these and I did not like the fact that some cars I had to jackup to get the lift arms under them...that is kind of a pain..
 

kvom

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*******, GA
I just swapped out a (symettric) MaxJax for a Asymettric Mohawk (A7) - Both are pretty narrow - but that's what I need to fit my shop. - But with the symettric, I was barely able to get out of the doors of my 1961 Chevy truck - With the Mohawk, even though it is a tight fit between the columns, the doors open fine. For a narrow foot print, I found Asymettric is the way to go.

I have the same lift, and am quite happy with it. The Mohawk uses SS hydraulic tubing to connect the two posts, so it's possible to adjust the width to whatever is needed consistent with the length of the shorter arm. I wish I had made mine wider so as to let me put my trailer on the lift.
 

blk00ss

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Dec 22, 2011
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I bought two of these and I did not like the fact that some cars I had to jackup to get the lift arms under them...that is kind of a pain..

Omg. Again... Build some 1x10 ramps to drive your car on to.
 

Air_Cooled_Nut

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Mar 28, 2007
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Portland, Oregon
I bought two of these and I did not like the fact that some cars I had to jackup to get the lift arms under them...that is kind of a pain..
Are you talking about cars that have been lowered? This isn't a dealbreaker for me. I have a lowered Jetta (used to race it SCCA) and am used to "pre-lifting" in order to get a jack under her :D

The PO of our house had the right half of the shop poured for a lift (deeper cement). I'm eye-balling the Challenger Vers. CL10 series because of its flexibility and looking for owner feedback, good and bad. Thanks to those that have.
 
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The Boss

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Connecticut
You're lifting a lot of weight with f350, so you're going to require a 12,000lbs capacity. You can't get 12k's in a true asymmetric configuration. Personally, i would recommend a Rotary SPO12.

I should be fine with a 10,000 lb one shouldn't I? The truck scales at 8,800 loaded with my fat *** in it.
 

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blk00ss

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Dec 22, 2011
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My asymmetrical rotary 9k lifts my guard quab dodge with cummins and 35" mud tires just fine.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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I bought two of these and I did not like the fact that some cars I had to jackup to get the lift arms under them...that is kind of a pain..

I have had everything from a '64 Fairlane and '65 Mustang to an '05 GTO and an '06 F-250 Diesel on that lift without any problems. I don't own a Lambo that requires a lift arm 3/4" thick to be able to lift it but everything else has not been a problem. The lift arms are about the same thickness as every other lift I have used.

By the way, that F-250 is a crew cab, LWB model that barely fits in the garage.

All in all, I don't have anything but praise for the Challenger CL10-V3 and currently have a 12,000 lb. 4 post on order from them for my center bay. That should tell you how much I trust that lift.
 

gnxtc2

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Sep 3, 2010
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New york
You will be fine with a CERTIFIED 10K lbs lift.

I have a BendPak XPR10 symmetrical lift. I chose the symmetrical lift for a few reasons. My shop is 35x60 and the lift is at the far end of the shop. I wanted the option of facing the vehicles either direction. With the asymmetrical, you stuck in the direction. The symmetrical lift is better suited for the LWB trucks. I use jack stands on the LWB trucks to eliminate the bounce. I do work on G body vehicles.

Here a few pics:

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Billy T.
[email protected]
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
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Chicago, IL
I use this analogy all the time with my customers..Which way do you want to be inconvenienced?

In most shops, over 60% of your customer base is automotive (car), not truck. That is what an asymmetric lift is designed for and that is why the vast majority of 2 post lifts that are sold are asymmetric. When you do need to pick up a truck, it will be an inconvenience, but you can do it with an asymmetric lift (that is properly rated for the load). In this situation, you are going to be inconvenienced when you pick up trucks, but it won't affect your business as much as buying a lift that's not designed to do what you need it to MOST of the time.

In some shops, the vast majority of the work being done is on trucks, not cars. In that case, it makes sense to buy a symmetric lift in lieu of an asymmetric. If you're inconvenienced on the rare car (less than 40% of your business), it won't affect you as much and you will work happier and hopefully make more $$.

The "Versymmetric" theory is a sales pitch, nothing more. That style of lift is what is also referred to as a "poor man's asymmetric" because it's a cheaper way to build a lift. A "true" asymmetric lift has columns that are rotated approx. 30 degrees to face the vehicle's center of gravity when it is lifted. A versymmetric has symmetrical columns but asymmetric arms. If you load it asymmetrically (30% in front of the lift and 70% behind the lift) the load center is sitting a substantial distance behind the supporting structures (columns). The "bearings" (slider blocks) that support the load in the column are now "twisting" to try and support the load. After enough use, the blocks are either worn down and need to be repaired or they simply pop out of the columns. Not an ideal situation in either case. Granted, if you are just using the lift for home use, the chances of wearing out the slider blocks is slim to none, but in a busy shop environment where a lift is going up and down 20 times a day, that style of lift doesn't last long.

Last, but not least...PLEASE keep in mind that two post lifts are rated by ARM strength, not overall capacity!!! Each arm on a 2 post lift is rated for 1/4 of the total capacity...(ie. 10K capacity lift has 4 arms that can lift 2,500 lbs. each.) Most trucks are substantially unbalanced loads (especially if they are loaded, but not ONLY when they are unloaded). You not only need to know how much the vehicle weighs, but ALSO how that load is distributed. If your rear axle weight is 5,000 lbs (or more), a 10,000 pound lift is too small to pick up the truck, even if the empty truck is only 8,000 lbs!

There have been cases, several right here in IL, where people have decided to pick up extended trucks (F350's and similar) and ended up damaging the lift and or not going home at all due to improperly lifting them. I hate to see it happen to anyone else!

Hope you all have a great and SAFE New Year!
 

joebiodiesel

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Jun 21, 2012
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Greensboro Area, NC
While some might think it an inconvenience, on a symmetrical lift I always park the car short of the lift, just enough to get the door completely open. I get out, and roll the car into the proper spot for lifting it. For me, it isn't any more inconvenient than crawling around to set the lift arms.
Joe
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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Extreme NW Georgia
The "Versymmetric" theory is a sales pitch, nothing more. That style of lift is what is also referred to as a "poor man's asymmetric" because it's a cheaper way to build a lift. A "true" asymmetric lift has columns that are rotated approx. 30 degrees to face the vehicle's center of gravity when it is lifted. A versymmetric has symmetrical columns but asymmetric arms. If you load it asymmetrically (30% in front of the lift and 70% behind the lift) the load center is sitting a substantial distance behind the supporting structures (columns). The "bearings" (slider blocks) that support the load in the column are now "twisting" to try and support the load. After enough use, the blocks are either worn down and need to be repaired or they simply pop out of the columns. Not an ideal situation in either case. Granted, if you are just using the lift for home use, the chances of wearing out the slider blocks is slim to none, but in a busy shop environment where a lift is going up and down 20 times a day, that style of lift doesn't last long.

I guess the fact that you sell Rotary Lifts that do not have that design has nothing to do with your opinion...... If you have 50% of the weight (30% of the length of the car) in front of the columns and 50% of the weight (70% of the length of the car) behind the columns, they are still loaded equally.

A true "symmetric" lift has the columns turned to allow the car to be further to the rear and make the columns even more clear of the car doors. The shorter arms and the versamatic style lifts combine the best of both worlds with the ability to lift both ways although not to the extent a true "symmetric" will. As far as lasting goes, how about showing me all of those "worn out" lifts in commercial shops.

I know a BUNCH of shops in this area that use them and have never had a problem with years of service on their lifts. Two good friends that run their own shops have Challengers and after seeing them work day in and day out, I bought one for my own shop.

If I had a multi bay facility, I might purchase several of each type but with only two bays with lifts, I wanted a 4 post and a versatile 2 post lift that would do everything I needed, all day long, for years of service without any problems. I have that.

Rotary makes a great lift as does Mohawk, Bendpack and others but just because you sell one brand does not make the others a lower performing lift.
 

jester8798

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Mar 16, 2013
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1
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MI
I am in the same boat as the OP, trying to decide on the lift configuration.

I have been leaning toward the symmetric style just in case I lift friends or family vehicles that are larger/longer than my daily (2011 Subaru WRX). For those of you with symmetric lifts have you had any issues lifting narrower cars, like mine, on your lift. I am also leaning toward the symmetric since my car is AWD and the weight distribution is about 60/40. I laid it out in my barn the other day and I shouldn't have an issue getting my doors open.

Thanks guys!
 

MG44

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Jan 14, 2013
Messages
928
wide symmetrical for trucks. I have 1 asymmetrical bendpak and it gets pretty scary with a big truck on it, vans are even worst. Honestly we normally lift most vans/big trucks on the 4 post anymore, some are just too long to be comfortable under. It just ***** when you are dropping an engine in a E350 or something, you HAVE to do all the work on a 2 post.
 
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