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70R garage build

7

70R

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Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Finally getting around to posting pictures. Here are the details of the build so far:

1904 square feet, 2x6x10' exterior walls, EIFS to match existing house
Raised trusses over left bay, attic trusses over right bay
13'x15' room in attic
1/2" PEX with 7 loops, 2 manifolds
6" slab w/ 6x6 WW mesh, 2" XPS bottom and inside foundation walls
100 amp service
Natural gas
Provisions for BendPak XPR-10

Thanks to the many, many people that have posted on GJ. Great information and a huge time-saver!

Joe

Site plan generated in AS4000
View media item 93973
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
The previous owners had a dog house and a garden covering most of the area. The well that serves our house is actually on my neighbor's lot, and the line ran right under the new garage location.

I had a paving crew cut part of the new driveway (the complete driveway will be circular) and lay #2 stone to provide access for the foundation crew.

Relocating the well line:
View media item 93974
Foundation is in:
View media item 93975
While they were relocating the well line, I had them add an underground shutoff valve and supply the garage with water. The valve is at the bottom of the PVC riser with the cap in the background and the black poly pipe is the water supply line. They also supplied the wrench to operate the valve. When the water to the garage is shut off, any water in the supply line drains into the gravel under the valve. I also had them install a dry well for a sink.
View media item 93976View media item 93977
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
There is 2" XPS going under the slab and along the inside of the foundation wall (with the standard bevel-cut on the tops of the foundation wall pieces). The 6x6 wire mesh sits on top of the XPS and created a perfect grid to layout the PEX. I used one of those "hog ring style" pliers to attach the PEX to the wire mesh. The mesh will be raised up 2" on blocks prior to pouring the slab.

I used a piece of 1/2" conduit and cardboard to make a template for the BendPak XPR-10 two post lift. I laid it on the XPS and used orange spray paint to mark the location. I used the free trial of LoopCad to route the PEX.

View media item 93979
PEX is in:
View media item 93980
The 1-1/2" PVC conduit worked well, but I made one minor mistake. I mounted them with two hole straps to the 2x4 frames. Now when I hang my drywall I'll have to notch out around them. I should have used a 3/4"-1" spacer to allow the drywall to slide in behind them.

My inital plan was to have a partition wall between the two bays, so I created two zones. Here are the manifolds mounted to temporary frames bolted to the foundation wall.
View media item 93981View media item 93982
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Pouring the slab. The slab is 6" thick and the wire mesh/PEX was raised up 2" during the pour. The PEX held pressure for several days prior to the pour. It was interesting to watch the pressure go up and down based on the ambient temperature. It took a bit of fiddling with the manifolds to stop the leaks. During the pour I adjusted it to about 30 psi. I had a splice kit ready, but it wasn't needed.
View media item 93983
The slab is finished and marked for saw cutting.
View media item 93984
Here is a close-up of the man door opening on the left and the garage door opening on the right showing the details of the rain lip. I never saw this while growing up in Chicago, but they say it's pretty common around here.
View media item 93985
Here's another view of the finished slab with the dry well in the foreground.
View media item 93986
Here's the water shutoff (I'll trim the PVC once the final grading is complete), the water line and drain in the slab. Not a big deal, but like the PEX lines exiting the slab, I should have held the drain away from the wall a bit.
View media item 93987
The slab was poured during the hottest time of the year. It was in the upper nineties most of the week. To keep the slab wet while it cured, I rigged up a manifold to run soaker hoses. I tried running lines from the house, but the pressure drop was too high.
View media item 93988
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
The first wall section is up. I'm doing these by myself, so I held off on the sheathing.
View media item 93992
I stood the first two sections myself, but I gave in and got some help for the remaining sections. Even without the sheathing, the 16' sections of 2x6x10' was a little too much to stand, plumb and brace by myself.

The first wall is standing.
View media item 93993
And the second wall.
View media item 93994
The third wall is almost ready to stand.
View media item 93995
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
My father-in-law volunteered to help set the trusses. He owns a structural steel company, so we fabricated a boom for his fork lift. We were all set to use that when we learned that the boom truck was not scheduled for any jobs and we could use it instead. MUCH EASIER!

I operated a much larger crane (Grove TMS250) when I used to work for him years ago, so this one took a bit to get used to.

The third wall is up.
View media item 95378
I wouldn't even consider setting the LVLs by hand.
View media item 95379
Trusses are finally going up.
View media item 95380
Making progress.
View media item 95381
Nice view of the raised trusses over the left bay.
View media item 95382
All done with the boom truck. It also came in handy relocating the existing 10x12 shed in front of the garage. We were able to sling it with spreaders and nylon straps, set it on the truck bed, drive to the new location in the backyard, and set it in its new location.
View media item 95383
The smaller corner trusses, the triangles for the tops of the the hips (3) and the valley trusses will be set by hand.
View media item 95384
I hired a framing crew to finish the trusses, add the lateral bracing, deck and add the sub-facia.
View media item 95385
View of the room above the right bay. The truss with the vertical 2x4s is one side of a stairwell opening and will be covered with drywall.
View media item 95386
The framing and roof are complete. Waiting on overhead doors.
View media item 95387
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Trenching for the utilities. This is the electric going in. No pictures of the gas trenching, but it looks the same. Adding 100 amp service. Also had to upgrade my natural gas service to 2# to handle a whole house generator, a pool heater and the new garage. At this distance, the 3/4" 2# line provides more than enough capacity to handle the garage heat.
View media item 95388
Electrical panel
View media item 95389
Close ups. Still waiting on the breaker for the mini-split AC.
View media item 95390View media item 95391
Growing up in Chicago, this Romex stuff is new to me...
View media item 95392
Two 50A welder outlets - one for my Millermatic 35 and one for my stick welder. My Home Depot carries split bolts approved to handle three conductors, so I was able to daisy chain the two outlets off one breaker.
View media item 95393
Adding insulation baffles.
View media item 95394
Good view of the high lift door in the west bay.
View media item 95395
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
To get funding approval from my wife, I had to make sure the new garage looked like it belonged with the existing house. Here's a picture of the side load garage on the existing house.

View media item 95396
And another shot showing the house and the new garage in the distance. She gave it a big :thumbup: This is the main reason for going with a hip roof when a gable roof would have given me a much larger room over the right bay.

View media item 95397
Progress has definitely slowed since the cold weather got here. I've done a little more work on the inside, primarily on the stairs to the room in the attic. I'll post more as progress continues.

Joe
 
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5

55cadillacking

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Apr 26, 2012
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1,959
Location
Calgary
Wow. Can't wait to see the finished interior. If it looks anything as nice as the exterior, I'm sure we are all in for a treat. Excellent execution!
 
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nsogiba

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Jan 16, 2013
Messages
232
Are you running a 50/50 glycol mix in the PEX? That in floor heating is going to rock.

Sub'd!
 
5

5mall5nail5

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May 23, 2010
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1,174
Location
Bucks County, PA
Great build. Two questions - can you show how you chained two 240v receptacles?

Also, just a suggestion, parts washer might want to be on a GFCI.
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
5mall5nail5 said:
Great build. Two questions - can you show how you chained two 240v receptacles?

Also, just a suggestion, parts washer might want to be on a GFCI.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

No pics of the two receptacles, but I eventually found a brand of split bolts that were listed for 3 wires (most are not). I had to use box extenders to meet the fill requirements, and I wrapped the connections in the proper 3M "rubber" tape, then again with regular electrical tape.

In hindsight, I would only do one outlet. One is for my mig, the other is for a stick. I use the mig for everything and have never used the stick...

No code requirement for a GFCI for the parts washer - it is 240v (hard to see in the picture). I bought a Little Giant replacement pump for a steal online, only to learn it was the 240v version. Had to rewire and modify the washer to replace its receptacle. Probably more work that it was worth. Good suggestion, though. I'll keep my eye out for a GFCI breaker at a reasonable price.
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
nsogiba said:
Are you running a 50/50 glycol mix in the PEX? That in floor heating is going to rock.

Sub'd!
Click to expand...

No glycol for now, but I'm on the fence. Just fired it up, pics coming soon. I have an automatic, whole house generator, so I thought the risk was minimal. I have a 4000W 240v electric heater (with thermostat) I can plug in if I'm out of town for any length of time.
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Finally getting around to posting more pictures!

The shell is complete with the doors installed:
View media item 95398
Insulation (1.5") and the features to add the EIFS:
View media item 95399
EIFS going on:
View media item 95400
EIFS complete, the entry door painted to match the overhead doors, coach light and weatherproof outlets installed, and floodlights installed under the eaves:
View media item 95401
Starting work on the stair:
View media item 95402View media item 95403View media item 95404
Gutters installed - the exterior shell is complete:
View media item 95405
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
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48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Insulation time:
View media item 95406View media item 95407
Using leftover PEX to add an outside spigot. Stub will be plumbed later:
View media item 95408View media item 95409View media item 95410View media item 95411
More insulation work:
View media item 95412View media item 95413
Finishing up the stair:
View media item 95414View media item 95415View media item 95416
The truss design makes it hard/impossible to blow insulation into the corners after the drywall ceiling is installed. This allowed me to blow in the insulation while I still had easy access. You can also see the orange marks I added as a gauge for blowing in the rest of the insulation later. Better than the staple-on rulers:
View media item 95417View media item 95418View media item 95419
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
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West Lafayette, IN
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
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Location
West Lafayette, IN
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
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Location
West Lafayette, IN
Bend Pak XPR-10 two post lift installed:
View media item 95434View media item 95435View media item 95436View media item 95437
Finally finishing the radiant heat installation.
I changed my mind on the heater location, so I had to extend the natural gas line to the East end of the building. The line is 2#, so I was able to move the regulator 40 feet to the east. Keeping the regulator close to the heater allowed me to run 3/4" black pipe from the regulator to the heater. Otherwise, the total distance would have required 1" to meet the heater's maximum gas flow requirement:
View media item 95438
Gas line where it enters the building. The incorrectly installed sediment trap was done by the plumbing company I hired (so much for hiring experts). You can barely see the disconnect box on the right - for a future mini-split A/C (if I can get funding approval from the boss):
View media item 95439
Gas line inside the building. I added a proper sediment trap here:
View media item 95440
The heater and plumbing are complete and working great! I couldn't have done it without all the great info on Garage Journal.
View media item 95441View media item 95442
I'll add pictures of the room upstairs, the sink installation, and the additional shelving once they are complete.
 
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3

340wedge

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Sep 8, 2012
Messages
391
Looking great! You have my dream car in your garage! My grandfather bought a Grabber Blue 1970 Mach 1 off the show room floor. It has been my dream ride ever since.
 
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7

70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
340wedge said:
Looking great! You have my dream car in your garage! My grandfather bought a Grabber Blue 1970 Mach 1 off the show room floor. It has been my dream ride ever since.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The car took 4 years to restore, taking up 2 bays in a 3 car attached garage. That helped when it came to getting buy-in on this garage from the wife.
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
onemanarmy said:
what is the space behind the tool boxes/workbench for? How big is the attic? Pics of that area?

Looks awesome.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

The space behind the boxes isn't for anything in particular - I decided I wanted the top to be a certain size and made the frame to match. I'm still trying to think of a creative use for the space...

The room in the attic is about 12 x 15. Doing a hip roof (to match the existing house) means the ceiling steps down on the far wall. Still plenty of room for a desk or workbench though.

Pics of the room upstairs soon. I tried taking some, but there is no depth perception with the white walls and ceiling. They'll be better once I get some stuff up there.
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
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Location
West Lafayette, IN
Here are the details of the radiant heat design:
- I used the trial version of LoopCAD.
- Original plan was to build a partition wall between the east and west bays, so a keep-out was put there. Manifolds were also setup to give two zones. I ended up scrapping that idea - no partition wall and only one zone.
- I also put keep-out areas along the north wall in case I wanted to anchor anything to the floor. I also planned on putting workbenches and equipment there, so no sense heating under them.
- The two keep-out areas in the west bay are for the two post car lift.

Building details:
- 2" XPS insulation with vapor barrier under slab
- 2" tapered XPS insulation along inside foundation walls
- Outside walls have unfaced R19 batts covered with 6 mil vapor barrier + exterior EIFS with 1.5" R-5.7 EPS for a total of R-24.7
- Attic has 24" blown fiberglass for R-44
- Overhead doors are 18'x8' CHI 2217 R-17 with reverse clip angle track and two weather seals
- Man door is smooth fiberglass Therma-Tru, U=.14
- Windows are Andersen 200 series double hung, low-e smartsun, U=.29

Here is the PEX layout from LoopCAD:
View media item 95443
Here is a picture showing the components and water direction (note - caption on ball valve is backwards. Should say "close ball valve to fill".
View media item 95444
I've also attached a spreadsheet with all of the components (less the gas line parts). It also contains the prices I paid, not counting shipping. Note that some prices are two years old. I also included links to the retailers' web pages for each item.

Hopefully this helps someone with their design!
Joe
 

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smuth10

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Jun 8, 2014
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Troy, mi
Joe,

Thanks for taking the time to post all of this detail. Much appreciated!

A couple of questions for you:

Why did you add extra temp gauges when they are built in to the manifolds?
I see an extra wire going from your relay to the HWH. Are you using the relay to power the HWH?

Thanks again for all of the info. It is a huge help
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Hi Smuth10,

No problem. Just my way of giving back to this forum.

The manifold gauges are temperature only, not very precise and hard to read. I oriented the unions to allow easiest access to the ball valves, and that sometimes put the gauges at a poor viewing angle. I also wanted to see the pressure at both points while the system was running, so I went with the combination T&P gauges.

Good eye on the wire. Yes, I'm powering the heater from the relay box, but on the "line" side. When I built the garage, I ran a dedicated circuit for the heat, and covered it with the blank wall plate. Powering the heater from the line side of the relay was the cleanest way to wire it. I added a cord grip at the top of the relay, and verified the heater power cord would route safely under the relay circuit board. This way, the dedicated circuit powers both the heater and the relay simultaneously.

I also used 1" to feed the manifolds after I calculated the difference in head between 1" and 3/4" for that length. The LoopCAD design was for 2.9 gpm and that is exactly what it flows when the circulator is set on high.
 
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tommyp

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Dec 1, 2012
Messages
120
Location
Burlington Vt
Beautiful shop!

I was wondering about the pump. Everything I read says that the takagi-jr is going to add a ton of head to the system and you will need to use a bigger pump.

I was looking at a taco 009 or grunfos 26-99 but it seems like you are getting away with much less pump. It is working ok? Or would you recommend something bigger.

I would like to try to run a viridian 2218 on mine but not sure if it is enough.
 
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HSpencer

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Nov 28, 2010
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South Central US
Super build. Everything looks very well done. Lots of nice space for your garage and shop area. Very nice!!

Best Regards
Herb Spencer
 
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vekster

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Sep 26, 2013
Messages
405
Location
Ontario, Canada
Awesome job on labelling the boiler and heating system for the floor......
That is a huge help for me
thanks



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
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West Lafayette, IN
Hi tommyp,

You may be right on the pump being on the small side. I tried to take all of the losses into account, including the takagi jr. I also compared the overall head values when running 3/4" vs 1" to the manifolds, and went with 1". I did remove the pump's check valve.

From memory, the output temp is 122 and the return temp never goes above 78, so I'm guessing I don't have enough pump. I keep the thermostat at 68.

I didn't pay attention to the ends of the PEX when I connected them to the manifolds, so I don't know which areas get the heat first. I checked a bunch of points with a digital infrared thermometer and I can "see" where the lines run, but I don't see big differences around the entire garage.

It worked great for the entire winter. And it didn't raise the gas bill enough to alert the wife, so all is good...

Joe
 
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tommyp

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Dec 1, 2012
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120
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Burlington Vt
Its probably better for the takagi anyway to have a bit lower intake temp. I may step up to the D2 i think. It seems to have less head in the heat exchanger. I would like to try to get away with as little pump as i can.

Ah just checked and yours is all one zone so that helps too.

Thanks for the reply.
 
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bimmer1980

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Feb 5, 2009
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2,103
Location
York, PA
Nice build!!!!!

I'm getting ready to do my radiant heat. Does your boiler produce any moisture or condensation from the combustion process?

Thanks!
 
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70R

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Feb 22, 2010
Messages
48
Location
West Lafayette, IN
Not that I can see. It is a standard efficiency on-demand water heater, so it isn't a condensing design. The exhaust has a drain line for condensation from the exhaust gases, and I put a loop trap in the tube as recommended. I've never seen any condensation in that, either.
 
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